Jon's Final Florida Journal For Real

[Jon]

Cherry Pie

Aka - pistil factory. These buds are just incredible dense masses of white hairs. Just seeing the very first faint signs of color, a bit pinkish. Can’t tell in these pics, except maybe a little on the second picture.

 

[Jon]

@rehabilitatora420 - I got you. @con is on the right track. I can help you tweak and dial it in. Go to the DMs, it’s a little easier for this, we can go one on one back and forth more readily. I already got you started. See the messages. Let me know there when you’re to the point I described and we will go to the actual measurements. Don’t worry man, we will get this and you will see how sweet and essential it is once we get it going. Also how easy. I know it can be confusing, especially coming from zero. I got you.

Worry not, it’s not possible that you are in the 2200s. Lmao! That ain’t right, but good you knew it would have been ultra too high. lol.

 

[NickHardy]

No he said 1200-1300 which is totally possible and I would say even desirable.

 

[Jon]

No he said 1200-1300 which is totally possible and I would say even desirable.

Lol. Oh @NickHardy …you doubter you. I’m working with him in DM. Posted this here by mistake. In DMs he measured 2200 he thinks. Lol. Well, not anymore.

 

[Jon]

Lol. Oh @NickHardy…you doubter you. I’m working with him in DM. Posted this here by mistake. In DMs he measured 2200 he thinks. Lol. Well, not anymore.

But yeah @NickHardy, 1200-1300 is great for you and me, but consider:

- his first grow
- brand new light he just got and knows nothing about
- just learning how to measure light with the app
- already fixing calmag issues
- we know nothing about the strain

So in light of that, I was going to get him to be more at like 1000-1100. That will give him dense buds that won’t foxtail and his leaves may just be okay there. I don’t want to take the chance at this point messing him up with too much light just cuz me and you are light junkies and stupid like that.

 

[Gee64]

depend on the phone he's using my samsung don't require it but if a i phone yes

same here. Samsung doesn't require the diffuser.

 

[Keffka]

no Problem, if using the photone app open it & go to settings & open custom in the calibration settings but you need to find your light manufactures PPFD chart & should look like this https://www.spider-farmer.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/PPFD-MAP-SE5000-LED-1.jpg this is just a example of what it should look like & use the closest light reading usually 8 inch away so once you have that put your light on max power & put your phone 8 inch away from your light & press calibrate on your phone, your phone should walk you through the process once you press calibrate it will take a few seconds & that should be it, good luck don't hesitate if you need more guidance

Wild.. I’ve never heard of this and have been using Photone for a couple years.. I just bought the LED mode and let it rip and it’s been fine.

Ahh this is why:

It’s measured just fine for me on iPhones going back to the 7 that’s why I’ve never done it. Cool to know it’s there though!

 

[Jon]

Wild.. I’ve never heard of this and have been using Photone for a couple years.. I just bought the LED mode and let it rip and it’s been fine.

Ahh this is why:

It’s measured just fine for me on iPhones going back to the 7 that’s why I’ve never done it. Cool to know it’s there though!

Ah, @Keffka! So glad you said it. I’ve been biting my tongue. I never found it necessary to calibrate it and mine works perfectly from day one.

 

[con]

Ah, @Keffka! So glad you said it. I’ve been biting my tongue. I never found it necessary to calibrate it and mine works perfectly from day one.

the i phones are very accurate do to their own parts lens's & tech as other phones lens's & parts are cheap generic parts and quite far off from accurate so they should be calibrated with the light manufacture PPFD chart & still fairly far off of any i phone

 

[Jon]

the i phones are very accurate do to their own parts lens's & tech as other phones lens's & parts are cheap generic parts and quite far off from accurate so they should be calibrated with the light manufacture PPFD chart & still fairly far off of any i phone

Well, whatever…I downloaded the app, bought full spectrum, put on the diffuser, and measured, comparing the par chart of the light to my app. Without calibration. And I was within 30 points in every spot. That’s close enough for me. I can’t speak for other phones. But on the iPhones SE and now the 14 Plus Pro, same deal as described. So idk.

 

[Gee64]

I had never used or understood ppfd, I had always used VPD to dial in my light distance.

Once I got Jon to explain the process I ran a PPFD check, and found that my old school VPD system had the plants at 1000 PPFD.

When I raise PPFD any higher the plant suffers almost immediately. The plant can tell you how much light it wants, no PPFD meter can do that.

Dialing in VPD is far more beneficial than arbitrarily assigning a PPFD to a plant for what the 'net says it should be at.

Every strain/pheno require a different amount of light. Only VPD can tell you where those lines are at.

Not knocking PPFD, but it is only good to tell you the brightness of your light, not how that light interfaces with the plant.

 

[Wastei]

I had never used or understood ppfd, I had always used VPD to dial in my light distance.

Once I got Jon to explain the process I ran a PPFD check, and found that my old school VPD system had the plants at 1000 PPFD.

When I raise PPFD any higher the plant suffers almost immediately. The plant can tell you how much light it wants, no PPFD meter can do that.

Dialing in VPD is far more beneficial than arbitrarily assigning a PPFD to a plant for what the 'net says it should be at.

Every strain/pheno require a different amount of light. Only VPD can tell you where those lines are at.

Not knocking PPFD, but it is only good to tell you the brightness of your light, not how that light interfaces with the plant.

VPD = Vapor pressure deficit. I don't know how this has anything to do with dialing in light distance? You can feed the plant more light with optimal VPD but dialing in optimal light distance? I would argue that the light distance also depends heavily on other factors like what lights being used and its output?

Maybe your thinking about DLI (daily light integral) which is a conversion of PPFD? PAR is the wavelength spectrum of light and PPFD a conversion of what light that is usable to the plant.

 

[Keffka]

Ah, @Keffka! So glad you said it. I’ve been biting my tongue. I never found it necessary to calibrate it and mine works perfectly from day one.

I can see how non iPhones would need it. There’s such a wide range of quality in androids, especially the camera. Even the higher end phones aren’t as reliably manufactured as iPhones. I’ve gone back and forth from iPhones to low end then high end androids and I always come back to iPhone. If I want to do some extra shit I have a nice PC for that stuff.

 

[Gee64]

VPD = Vapor pressure deficit. I don't know how this has anything to do with measuring light intensity? You can feed the plant more light with optimal VPD but light distance? That depends heavily on other factors like what lights being used?

Maybe your thinking about DLI (daily light integral) which is a conversion of PPFD? PAR is the wavelength spectrum of light and PPFD a conversion of what light that is usable to the plant.

lol no. Dli is totally another tangent. Mine sits at 43. You should research VPD, it's a very valuable tool.

VPD tells you how close to the light your plants want to be. When you get a 2 degree difference between upper leaf temps and ambient air temps, your plants are in their happy zone.

VPD is all about water movement, and temperature difference is a major player in that. Light intensity varies leaf temps as it increases and decreases. The difference in ambient room temp and leaf temp IS vpd. Warm air can hold more moisture than the colder leaf, causing suction on the stomata that pulls water and nutes into the plant.

If you are too close to the light you will have less than 2 degrees. Your plants will rev too fast for what the rootball can sustain. Stress will show as a deficiency of your weakest input. It pulls too much water through that doesn't have a high enough amount of nutrients in it.

Too far away and you will have a greater than 2 degree difference and you aren't processing water as much as you could safely be processing. I purposely slow my plants down by doing this right before a stressful event such as a topping.

Get it just right and the plant is very happy. It turns out that for this strain of Durban I am growing, that that happens to be at 1000 PPFD.

@Wastei , So how do you pick a specific PPFD if you have no idea what the plant wants?

 

[Keffka]

lol no. Dli is totally another tangent. Mine sits at 43. You should research VPD, it's a very valuable tool.

VPD tells you how close to the light your plants want to be. When you get a 2 degree difference between upper leaf temps and ambient air temps, your plants are in their happy zone.

VPD is all about water movement, and temperature difference is a major player in that. Light intensity varies leaf temps as it increases and decreases. The difference in ambient room temp and leaf temp IS vpd. Warm air can hold more moisture than the colder leaf, causing suction on the stomata that pulls water and nutes into the plant.

If you are too close to the light you will have less than 2 degrees. Your plants will rev too fast for what the rootball can sustain. Stress will show as a deficiency of your weakest input. It pulls too much water through that doesn't have a high enough amount of nutrients in it.

Too far away and you will have a greater than 2 degree difference and you aren't processing water as much as you could safely be processing. I purposely slow my plants down by doing this right before a stressful event such as a topping.

Get it just right and the plant is very happy. It turns out that for this strain of Durban I am growing, that that happens to be at 1000 PPFD.

@Wastei , So how do you pick a specific PPFD if you have no idea what the plant wants?

The Druid has entered the chat

 

[NickHardy]

VPD has very little to do with light whatsoever.

Vapour-pressure deficit, or VPD, is the difference between the amount of moisture in the air and how much moisture the air can hold when it is saturated. Once air becomes saturated, water will condense out to form clouds, dew or films of water over leaves

I mean the heat your light gives off will alter it but it has nothing to do with PPFD or DLI or anything light related.

Here’s mine now, veg: (NB - Light reading was 5 Days ago but probably much different now, like 850)

 

[Gee64]

VPD has very little to do with light whatsoever.



I mean the heat your light gives off will alter it but it has nothing to do with PPFD or DLI or anything light related.

Here’s mine now, veg: (NB - Light reading was 5 Days ago but probably much different now, like 850)

The amount of light a plant receives has a direct effect on leaf surface temperature. Leaf temp is 1/3 of the VPD equation. Try it, scope your leaf temps, raise your ppfd, and scope your leaf temps a couple hours later. Light and vpd are intimitely linked. How else do you raise or lower leaf temp without changing ambient room temp?

 

[Gee64]

VPD has very little to do with light whatsoever.



I mean the heat your light gives off will alter it but it has nothing to do with PPFD or DLI or anything light related.

Here’s mine now, veg: (NB - Light reading was 5 Days ago but probably much different now, like 850)

This is room VPD, not plant VPD. 2 totally different things. Without a leaf temp reading that VPD readout on your screen is meaningless. What do you interpret 1.32 kps to mean?

 

[NickHardy]

Its a bit high. It converts for leaf or room VPD. Pulse Pro - its excellent.

You control VPD with Temperature and Rh. Sure you want to heat the leaves it gives you a hand to improve VPD for transpiration but you get the room right the light intensity is of far lesser import. How do you measure yours?

 

[Jon]

I had never used or understood ppfd, I had always used VPD to dial in my light distance.

Once I got Jon to explain the process I ran a PPFD check, and found that my old school VPD system had the plants at 1000 PPFD.

When I raise PPFD any higher the plant suffers almost immediately. The plant can tell you how much light it wants, no PPFD meter can do that.

Dialing in VPD is far more beneficial than arbitrarily assigning a PPFD to a plant for what the 'net says it should be at.

Every strain/pheno require a different amount of light. Only VPD can tell you where those lines are at.

Not knocking PPFD, but it is only good to tell you the brightness of your light, not how that light interfaces with the plant.

This is true. But it’s much easier for a newbie to understand ppfd.