SubCool Supersoil In SIPs With EWC, CBD Autos For Aspergers

[cbdhemp808]

I'm sorry, Med... when I said "it's possible that what you are seeing in the top leaves could be..." a virus... I meant that in a purely objective and literal way. I wasn't implying that I thought the most likely cause was a virus.

 

[cbdhemp808]

Regarding recycling soil that you think might have pathogens or critters in it...

I personally wouldn't attempt it; however, if you really really need to conserve and reuse soil, and you're quite sure it has a pathogen or bug problem, perhaps the best way would be to heat it up sufficiently. I have no experience doing that sorta thing. If there's a possible virus suspected—viruses may be more resistant to heat. I just don't know.

 

[CBDMed]

I'm sorry, Med... when I said "it's possible that what you are seeing in the top leaves could be..." a virus... I meant that in a purely objective and literal way. I wasn't implying that I thought the most likely cause was a virus.

No worries, brother, and I am NOT worried about it!
I am thankful I have a forum to go to where the people know how to grow, and help me get over the hurdles!
I also am guessing (and I am not convinced that Dude's employee knows, but he is here, so he might know).
I am hoping to spread the trico tonight, and I HOPE to get started on more buckets soon.

I WISH I had planted more photos!
The photos I have now have like a 5-6 week head start, so I am thinking I can put some of those TopTao tall autos (1.5m - 2m) and then pull out all of the males. That way I can still get clones from the four photos that are left, and maybe also get a decent crop.
And then next time I want to plant mucho more photos.

 

[CBDMed]

Regarding recycling soil that you think might have pathogens or critters in it...

I personally wouldn't attempt it; however, if you really really need to conserve and reuse soil, and you're quite sure it has a pathogen or bug problem, perhaps the best way would be to heat it up sufficiently. I have no experience doing that sorta thing. If there's a possible virus suspected—viruses may be more resistant to heat. I just don't know.

Yeah, I concur.
If I had a convection oven I *might* try to bake it, but I do not have a convection oven, and $35 for a new bag of soil is an easy solution.

I appreciate the work you are doing in finding strains that are more resistant.

 

[cbdhemp808]

How are you feeling about the SIP method at this point? How are the other plants doing?

From my non-SIP perspective, the added complexity of SIP with its limit on pot size and different watering scenario may pose some additional challenges. But I suppose once you get it dialed in, it's great.

 

[CBDMed]

How are you feeling about the SIP method at this point? How are the other plants doing?

From my non-SIP perspective, the added complexity of SIP with its limit on pot size and different watering scenario may pose some additional challenges. But I suppose once you get it dialed in, it's great.

My only complaint about SIPs is not a real complaint! I wish someone would make a commercial one in 7 G, and 10G. Thye grow like twice as fast, and way healthier overall. (It was a major improvement for me--thank you Azi for suggesting them!)
The other girls look great--just not enough of them now!
I hope to make some tall Mr. Tao auto buckets in a couple of days.

SIPs just eliminated my watering challenges, and made everything healthier.

 

[CBDMed]

Well, I am just getting slaughtered.
Delicious Cheese Auto has multiple hidden nanner sites, so she has to go.

And one of my Deep Mandarins just looks small.
This was planted on June 27. That is two months!
I took some of the bigger fan leaves so that the shoots could get some light, but they're not really growing.
She was drinking water earlier, but her water has slowed way down.
If a "scorched earthl policy is appropriate when dealing with unknown problems, I'm thinking I should take this one out also, because her branches are nowhere near as strong as the other two girls who were planted at the same time.

To wit, this is her Deep Mandarine sister. She just started her yoga training today. She is not real big either for two months, but she looks much better than her sister.

And this is Peyote WiFi CBD 2:1, also looking good. She also just went into training hoops today.
She was planted at the same time (6/27). I would think much bigger for two months, but here we are.

Now this is the second deep mandarin again (revisited).
It just seems smaller. (Kind of like my autos were smaller.)
Note how short the branches are, for the same amount of time. There is no way to put them in hoops!
That looks like a bad sign to me. I'm thinking she needs to go.

NEXT PROBLEM:
In that light, I'm also taking a hard look at the Dr. Seedsman 30:1. It was planted on 7/3 which is only one week behind these other three. And it just doesn't look big. Or strong. I have not cut any fan leaves, but I have the same problem looking for something to tie down. (She just looks small.)
This is like 7 weeks??
I have a hard time with this plant having seven weeks, when the big girls who went into hoops today only have eight weeks. So I am thinking I should pull this one also, just to play it safe.

My herd is thinning considerably! I am down to 4 Charlotte's Angels, one strong Deep Mandarine, and one strong Peyote WiFi CBD.
I am thinking that I have only four good autos, and two good photos at this point. Bummer deal.
I am thinking if I plant a bunch of those TopTao bigger autos then they can maybe grow while the two photos are growing. And then we can flip at the same time, keying on the photos.

For strategy:
The brown top dress in the pictures is the Avisana trico & myco before I wetted it with the Bioxinis loquid trico / myco. (I tried to give them all a good drench).
If I'm going to play it safe, I think all I can do is ditch all of the affected buckets and soil, and then this next time I can mix the Avisana in with the bucket.
I have multiple strange trio on the way, but it's probably a few weeks away.
I think getting rid of every suspect bucket, scrubbing everything, and then mixing in the trico when I make new buckets is my best bet.
Then I can plant the big TopTao varieties, and chop the males as they appear.

Comments? Suggestions?
Condolences? Haha
I am sure that everyone has lost plants.

 

[CBDMed]

This is all that is left
Two photos in the back on the right, and four Charlotte's Angel autos (who are doing much better than I thought) front and left.

Hopefully I can build buckets with Avisana trico in the mix, and then we can plant those big Top Tao semi-autos.
Maybe I will get a crop yet

 

[CBDMed]

Ok, well, I am way over my head here.
May I please ask for some advice?

I thought @bluter 's idea of scorched earth sounded harsh, but best, given the fact that we are not truly 100% sure what the problem, virus, or pest is.
I am down to 4 pretty-good-looking Charlotte's Angel Autos (above) planted on 6/14, which are presently in stretch.
And there are also two photos (also above) planted basically two weeks later, on 6/27. They are still in veg.
I am kind of choking on the realization that it has been 2 months since I planted those photos, and they JUST went into hoops today.
Normally it takes my autos a month to get to the rim. I am asking myself why these autos are not yet quite at the rim after two months. Does that seem right? (I seem to remember photos growing faster than that.)
If everything is okay, why are photos not yet at the rim after two months??
Is it possible that these photos are infected also??
"The horror..."
OR are the two photos OK, because Charlotte's Angel is 13 days (two weeks) ahead, and she is just now entering stretch (so relax)?

Here the mind starts to spin:
If the two photos ARE infected, then I could either:
a) pull them and start over, and then mix fresh buckets with Avisana trico from the get-go, and THEN plant new photos in that.
It would be a bummer for the seeds, and it would set me back two months, but it would be sure (IF those photos are slow, or infected).
It would be great to crack a lot of beans, and take pheno cuttings, and get started. The only thing is that I am not 100% sure I can hold out for 6 more months before I get a harvest.

My OTHER option is to plant a mess of these TopTao semi-autos with trico in the SIP, and then pull the males (whether or not I pull the photos).
With 14 plants I should get hypothetically @ +/- 7 females. If they are tall (1.5 - 2.0 m) then that SHOULD give me enough medicine (@ 5% CBD, which is enough).

So, I guess my questions would have to be, do the two photos who JUST went into yoga hoops at 2 months seem small?
And if so, then is it worth trying to save them with the liquid trico and the topdress? (Will trico fix an existing mite problem? Or is it better to get a girl who never got infected to start with?)
Or is it wiser / safer just pull them, toss everything, and start over with trico in the soil?
It has been a long time since I grew photos, and I do not remember doing HST before (just some LST), but it seems to me that two months is too long, just now to be reaching the rim.
I am not sure if it is worth waiting to see what this trico does.
The Charlotte's Angel Autos look great. (Haha, maybe look for Charlotte's Angel photos? Hahaha!)

I am leaning toward the TopTao option, leaving the two photos, to see if they do better with Trico in the soil, or not. However, it would be nice to know if they seem slow, or if they seem okay. (It has been a long time since I grew photos.)
I hope I am communicating clearly (as my head is reeling a little). Advice or questions would be welcomed.
Thanks.

 

[cbdhemp808]

Hi Med! Sorry you are having some problems there.

I will speak to the issue of your photos, since I'm not an auto grower and not familiar with what to expect with their growth habits.

Regarding this photo girl...

And there are also two photos (also above) planted basically two weeks later, on 6/27. They are still in veg.
I am kind of choking on the realization that it has been 2 months since I planted those photos, and they JUST went into hoops today.

Do you mean May 27? And you just started the LST today?

Anyway, that plant looks small and squat, so I don't understand why it doesn't show more vertical growth. I've got photo clones in 1 gal pots right now that are a lot taller than your plant.

I also wanted to ask you, when your plants are small, in the SIPs, how do you water them? Are you just watering in a smallish radius around them, or are you watering the whole bucket? Are you putting water down the SIP tube?

Please tell us again the wattage of your LED panels, how many you are using, and distance from the plants.

I'm starting to feel that it would be good for you to have at least a couple plants (photos) as a "control", not in SIPs but started in 1 gal, and then graduated to perhaps 7 or 10 gal., and following a wet/dry watering cycle w/ ample runoff. If these control plants did very well, then you'd know that there's something amiss in your SIP setup. If they didn't do well, then you'd know there is some other problem, and I'm guessing the order of probability would be: 1) soil, 2) water, 3) lighting, 4) temperature.

 

[bluter]

just monitor for signs of the russets. if they are present they will infect all the plants eventually. remove the known bad plant and carry on for now.

 

[InTheShed]

Been offline for a while so I wanted to jump in on a few things I thought might be useful even late, the first thing being that any leaves that look like that overnight should really be scoped for bugs. A slurry test on the soil would never be a bad thing to do either.

Also these:

Could 3 tsp of Calmag (instead of the recommended 2) lock out P and K after a few feedings??

A 33% increase in calmag can make a huge difference to the balance, so the answer to that question is "absolutely yes."

Shed will probably scold me, "You cannot force feed a plant!"
I was just thinking to add banana tea for the extra flavor / type of input.

I'd go with "remind" rather than scold , but remember that while you can't force a plant to take up what you feed it if it doesn't need it, you can force feed the soil, which is what leads to lock outs and toxicities.

for a small grow room they recommend spraying with micronized sulfur, so I ordered 5kg.

Sulfur in flower can be problematic and I don't recommend it for anything that will be smoked,

"When sulfur burns it produces sulfur dioxide, which turns into sulfurous acid when it comes in contact with water. That means it can be deadly if you breathe it into your very moist lungs."
Source

Condolences?

My condolences.

I am asking myself why these autos are not yet quite at the rim after two months.

If you have an auto still in veg for 60 days it might not be an auto.

 

[CBDMed]

Hi Med! Sorry you are having some problems there.

Hi Hemp808. Thanks and thanks for the help.

I will speak to the issue of your photos, since I'm not an auto grower and not familiar with what to expect with their growth habits.

Regarding this photo girl...

Do you mean May 27? And you just started the LST today?

Too good! I had to go check the tag to be sure.
No, it means I planted them 6/27, which means they are LESS than a month old, and I am freaking out over nothing!

WHEW!!!
If they are just under a month, then maybe they are lagging a little tiny bit, but not too bad. And now that they have trico, it may be a different game. Haha, so I can quit freaking out now!

Anyway, that plant looks small and squat, so I don't understand why it doesn't show more vertical growth. I've got photo clones in 1 gal pots right now that are a lot taller than your plant.

I understand. If it was two months, I would think it was too small. But it is less than ONE month, they could very well be on track.
Now that it has Trico I should just monitor it.

I also wanted to ask you, when your plants are small, in the SIPs, how do you water them? Are you just watering in a smallish radius around them, or are you watering the whole bucket? Are you putting water down the SIP tube?

Good questions.
Even though it is a SIP, I still try to start the seeds the same way "as if" I was sowing them direct in soil in cloth pots. I give them a 12 hour soak and then just try to keep the soil damp (not too wet).
At first I am just trying to keep an area maybe the size of a half dollar coin damp. Basically at first I just want to pop the seed. And then I nurse it while it gets started, but I try not to give it too much moisture.

Once the bean comes up, I keep trying to keep the half dollar or the silver dollar sized space damp.
As the plants grow, I keep trying to make the ring progressively larger, and then I start to ignore around the stem, kind of making an "expanding moisture donut", hoping to draw the roots out to the edges of the pot.
Once the branches reach the rim of the pot and the coolers are turning upward, I start to water the whole pot, including the base of the stem. (Usually it is "flood irrigation" at that point, But earlier I'm trying to draw the roots outward.)

About liquids, I have one formula for what I put over the roots (including calmag, Trico, myco, and Recharge-like microbe products. If it needs N, I add supplemental N.)
Once I have top watered, I usually wait at least a few hours, and then I add tube water.

Please tell us again the wattage of your LED panels, how many you are using, and distance from the plants.

OK, good question.
There are presently 15 China special LED panels. I think 10 of them are nominal 1500 W, and the remaining five are nominal 1200 W. They all have dimmers.
(I know there's better lights out there, but that's what I could afford.)
I had to turn them all down maybe 15 or 20% because I had some upward leaf curl, and when I turned the lights down, the plants did better. So I left it down a little bit.

I'm starting to feel that it would be good for you to have at least a couple plants (photos) as a "control", not in SIPs but started in 1 gal, and then graduated to perhaps 7 or 10 gal., and following a wet/dry watering cycle w/ ample runoff. If these control plants did very well, then you'd know that there's something amiss in your SIP setup. If they didn't do well, then you'd know there is some other problem, and I'm guessing the order of probability would be: 1) soil, 2) water, 3) lighting, 4) temperature.

Hahaha or 5) "operator headspace and timing".
Thank you so much for pointing out that those plants are less than a month old! Now they have Trico, and the suspected plants are gone, so I feel good about just spraying and monitoring them.

If I am only one month ahead, then I think it's possible to plant more photos. Especially if they are partly sativa. Maybe I can plant some more of that Doctor Seedsman 30:1, so hopefully I can get a good pheno.

about starting from clones with roots, I think that shaves a lot of time off of the process. What I have noticed is that it really kind of takes a seed about a month to really get established, and to get the show underway. I would think that if you started with a reasonable clone even with reasonable routes, you're shaving weeks off of the time for the plant to get established and get big.

Haha, it sounds like you have a bunch of control pots, and you just need to get a couple of SIPs??

I could maybe go for some cloth pots for control, but my experience has been that the SIP buckets grow perhaps twice as fast. And they look mich healthier!
I jist need to mix this Avisana into the soil before I plant.
In fact I think I will mix some into all of the super soil cooking buckets while I am at it, so the Trico can permeate everything.

What a relief!!

 

[CBDMed]

just monitor for signs of the russets. if they are present they will infect all the plants eventually. remove the known bad plant and carry on for now.

 

[CBDMed]

Been offline for a while so I wanted to jump in on a few things I thought might be useful even late, the first thing being that any leaves that look like that overnight should really be scoped for bugs.

Great to hear from you.
Sorry, which one??

A slurry test on the soil would never be a bad thing to do either.

For bugs?? is this a home test that I can do myself? Or is this something that I need to send a sample to a lab?

Also these:

A 33% increase in calmag can make a huge difference to the balance, so the answer to that question is "absolutely yes."

OK, great to know!
I did some further testing, I was giving it the right amount, according to the feeding schedule. Thank you for having me check.

I'd go with "remind" rather than scold , but remember that while you can't force a plant to take up what you feed it if it doesn't need it, you can force feed the soil, which is what leads to lock outs and toxicities.

Sulfur in flower can be problematic and I don't recommend it for anything that will be smoked,

"When sulfur burns it produces sulfur dioxide, which turns into sulfurous acid when it comes in contact with water. That means it can be deadly if you breathe it into your very moist lungs."
Source

Ok great points!

My condolences.

Thank you

If you have an auto still in veg for 60 days it might not be an auto.

hahaa, or maybe I freaked out, and forgot how to count!!

Anyway, I would like to TRY planting more photos. I am hoping to build some buckets tomorrow. I need to ask how much Trico they want me to use.

 

[cbdhemp808]

I had tp go check the tag!
No, it means I planted them 6/27, which means they are LESS than a month old, and I am freaking out over nothing!

WHEW!!
Those were my two best girls. If they are just under a month, then maybe they are lagging a little tiny bit, but not too bad. And now that they have trico, it may be a different game. Haha, so I can quit freaking out now!

all good my friend. I tend to use the forum to remember when I planted or flipped!

RE: this plant...

• • •

I understand. If it was two months, I would think it was much too small. But it is less than one month, so they could very well be on track! (Maybe something nibbled on them? I hope not. But now that it has Trico and it has almost reached the rim in just under a month, then I should keep spraying it, and feeding it Trico, and then I should just monitor it.

Is that before or after you added the LST hoops? I was just wondering why it's got such a low profile.

Once I have the branches reaching the rim of the pot, and I've got the final steaks and now the colas are turning upward, now I will water the whole pot, including at the base of the stem. Usually it is "flood irrigation" at that point, But earlier on I'm trying to draw the roots outward.

Would you say that plant's roots are reaching the bottom of the bucket at this point? I'm guessing not, so then I wonder, why water the whole pot? I mean, how much are you watering? Until runoff out the drain tube? I'm just concerned that maybe there's a lot of water setting in your bucket not getting sucked up into the plant.

Once the plants are established, usually I do my top watering first, and then I wait a few hours for the water to settle, and then I add tube water.

At what point do you consider a plant to be established? Like in the photo above?

There are presently 15 China special LED panels. I think 10 of them are nominal 1500 W, and the remaining five are nominal 1200 W. They all have dimmers. I know there's better lights out there, but that's what I could afford.
I had to turn them all down I'm not sure how much but maybe 15 or 20% because I had some upward leaf curl, and when I turned the lights down, the plants did better.

OK, that's sounds like plenty of watts to me, and I'm actually surprised you have access to that much power where you are. I have in my mind you are in some rural location in Colombia.

So, you have seen some excess light and/or heat effects in the past. Perhaps the Afghan Auto was more sensitive to that and hence the leaf problems at the top. My understanding is that indicas (and ruderalis) are more adapted to lower light conditions, and cooler climates, as opposed to sativas. Indicas may also require less water and can be drought tolerant. That's my understanding. I definitely notice that with my small indicas.

I could go for some cloth pots, brother, but I think that SIP buckets grow twice as fast. And they just look healthier! So since there's less than a month difference (probably a month by the time I actually build buckets and pop beans, I feel good about planting more photos.

I wasn't suggesting dropping the SIPs... just having a control for comparison sake.

Do you have any pics of what you'd consider your best plant grown in a SIP, just before harvest? I would love to see.

Fyi, in my grow I have used 15 gal. fabric pots, and then now 10 gal. plastic pots. The 15 gal. grew giant plants, but they were too big for me to move around. Also, the fabric became clogged. 10 gal. is growing big plants with what I consider to be quite nice colas (PICS).

 

[CBDMed]

all good my friend. I tend to use the forum to remember when I planted or flipped!

LOL!!!!

Sure, make use of the tools at your disposal!!
(I am just not so familiar with my own thread!! Lol.)

RE: this plant...

• • •

Is that before or after you added the LST hoops? I was just wondering why it's got such a low profile.

Oh, sorry, it is HST. I snipped her up pretty good.
I will try to send you some pictures later, but first I cut her tip, and then I also took the top leaves, so the lower shoots could get some more light.
So I cut her back pretty good.

Would you say that plant's roots are reaching the bottom of the bucket at this point? I'm guessing not, so then I wonder, why water the whole pot? I mean, how much are you watering? Until runoff out the drain tube? I'm just concerned that maybe there's a lot of water setting in your bucket not getting sucked up into the plant.

I am not really sure how SIPs work, but the concensus seems to be that the roots get a lot more air. ("So why do we not get the same effect from an Air Pot??? Inquiring minds want to know...")
It seems like it takes the plants like 3-4 weeks to find the res, and then when they finally do the plant takes off.
These are the roots from a 6 week old auto Charlotte's Angel that drains her bucket completely every 2 days.

At what point do you consider a plant to be established? Like in the photo above?

Good question. Yes, when the plant starts to reach the rim like that, or it has found the res and it starts to take off, then I consider her "established."
I consider those two photos "established" because they are already reaching the rim, and the roots do not really need to be drawn out any more.

OK, that's sounds like plenty of watts to me, and I'm actually surprised you have access to that much power where you are. I have in my mind you are in some rural location in Colombia.

Yes, I am in a rural location in Colombia, sort of. I am just outside of a noisy town of maybe 5,000 people. We WANT to move across the valley to our farm, IF we can get money, and IF they open the road like they said they would (although maybe now they will not...)
There are many "inconvenientes" (first world problems) here.
We probably lose power for half the day on average once or twice a month.
We probably lose internet about as often.
No one seems to care that the water runs brown each time it rains.

As it was explained to me, the great ethic in Latin America is "to adapt yourself to whatever conditions there are, because you cannot change it."
(I would just CLEAN UP the water supply once and for all and be done with it, and MOW DOWN the vegetation that keeps knocking out the power wires with a brush hog, but that is not how they think here.)

So, you have seen some excess light and/or heat effects in the past. Perhaps the Afghan Auto was more sensitive to that and hence the leaf problems at the top.

Nahhh, I killed her. I snipped the sick little Peyote Wifi CBD, and then I went to cut on her without first cleaning the snips. So I passed tainted blood from the sick PWF to the healthy Afghani girl
But that is ok. Afghani and Delicious Cheese were stopping me from growing more photos. Now I can plant maybe a dozen more photos, and get a real crop.

My understanding is that indicas (and ruderalis) are more adapted to lower light conditions, and cooler climates, as opposed to sativas. Indicas may also require less water and can be drought tolerant. That's my understanding. I definitely notice that with my small indicas.

Yes, I have heard similar, although I do not know.
I know that some websites sell cool-weather strains.
I do not know much more than that about that.

I wasn't suggesting dropping the SIPs... just having a control for comparison sake.

Hahaha, I think you want me to run a control bucket, so you can compare
I cannot remember who, but someone said that he drilled some holes in the sides of a hard plastic pot, and just set it in a dish or tray of water, and he got "SIP-like results", meaning that the extra air holes, coupled with a source of water, seemed to give his plants a real boost.
What I do not get is if all you have to have is a steady source of water and a lot of air, then why do Air Pots not take off??
And I would think Hempy would get more air than anything else, so I am not real sure WHY SIPs seem to grow so well. I would think Azi would know more, since that is his thread.

Do you have any pics of what you'd consider your best plant grown in a SIP, just before harvest? I would love to see.

Oh mercy. Hahaha, I am not really that familiar with my own threads.
You are killing me. I think I have some pics somwehere on some past threads. It would be much easier to show you going forward, assuming the Trico does the trick.
Scanning quickly...

This is 11 Roses Auto (bought from a sponsor), which is Sugar Black Rose x Appalachain Kush (all THC).
She had two spots of budrot which I cut out (the two front left colas), but she still looks pretty good for an auto (although small for a photo).
Except for the budrot, I would consider her representative of a "good" 3-month auto grow. (I am hoping the Trico will fix the budrot, and I can grow big photos from now on.)

This is Royal Seeds CBD-V with a slight calcium deficiency (and plenty of N).
That is Swiss Dream Auto CBD on her right.
She has lots of N (dark leaf color), but was shedding her lower leaves.
Also 3 months.

This is her in early flower, without the deficiencies.
(She grew well, I am just not thrilled about CBD-V.)

This is 3 of the 4 SDAC getting close to harvest.

SDAC on the right, RCBDV center (tall), CBD 1:1 (Crack CBD Auto) left and foreground.

These were the BlueBerry Crystal Autos on the roof before they got hit with budrot. (I was hoping they would get to 5-6 feet.)

AMXXL:
You asked about Afghan Mass XXL. This is her from when that pathogen first started to kill everything and turn everything brown.
(I am hoping the Trico will protect against this.)

This is a CBD 1:1 Auto (Crack CBD auto).

I do not know if that is what you want. I am sure the plants will be very small compared to your 10G photos.
I am hoping to have some big photos coming up, but this is the best I can show and tell right now.

Fyi, in my grow I have used 15 gal. fabric pots, and then now 10 gal. plastic pots. The 15 gal. grew giant plants, but they were too big for me to move around. Also, the fabric became clogged. 10 gal. is growing big plants with what I consider to be quite nice colas (PICS).

Your plants are gorgeous! I wish I had an outdoor grow-room like that!!
Maybe when I exhaust all of these seeds I can try to grow the seeds you find to be the most resistant, and maybe I can still grow outdoors here yet???
I wish you the best with your research.
I will try to send you some more SIP photo photos, and also some rootzone pics, but right now I have to run.

 

[CBDMed]

OK I'm on my phone. This is a six week old Charlotte's angel. She drinks. She empties her cup completely every two days.

These are her roots at six weeks.

This is Peyote Wi-Fi CBD 2:1 at just under four weeks.
Her roots are just now finding the reservoir. So I expect her to takeoff very soon.

These are her roots at just under four weeks. I expect to see a proliferation of roots soon.

This is Deep Mandarin at just under four weeks.
I cut her back a good bit to try to get eight colas. I got seven. Some are a little short but hopefully now with the Trico things will improve.

These are her roots at just under four weeks.

Once the roots start to invade the reservoir, it is a game changer. Then it becomes lift off time.
They have a four week Headstart but I think it is not too late to plant more photos, especially sativa.
Even if all the girls do not get time to grow up properly, I'm hoping at least to get some good Pheno cuttings for the clone room.

To answer your earlier question, to me, basically it takes a seed almost a month to get up on its legs, and get running. If you have a good clone with decent roots, you probably shave a good two or three weeks off the process. From that point all they have to do is to find the reservoir, and it is time for the launchpad.
I hope this is helpful somehow.

 

[InTheShed]

Sorry, which one??

The one with the top leaves that curled overnight:

Afghan Mass XXL are curling in a not-good looking way.

For bugs??

Slurry test to check the pH of the soil.

 

[cbdhemp808]

Wow, thanks for all the great photos and the root shots!

I get it now... you're doing a great job there, congrats. Compact plants with nice colas. The methods are alien to me, but I totally get it. Maybe one day I will venture to SIPify my grow.