SubCool Supersoil In SIPs With EWC, CBD Autos For Aspergers

Ok, busy day, and crowded house!
I had to cut what was left of Charlotte and her little angels, and this is half of them drying (the other half is on the other side of the room).

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I gave the three monsters in the back corner a serious haircut, trying to slow them way down without shocking them. They look tall enough to flip right now! I have already been only top watering. This time I only gave them half of a drink, because I need more time for the rest of the girls to catch up.

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I emptied four SIP buckets and reloaded. I will have to remix / recondition the soil later on another thread.
I also have the 4 each SWICK fabric pots from yesterday, nestled inside of 10 gallon buckets. So, all told I now have eight of these Haze CBD auto regulars, 4 in SWICK (from yesterday) and 4 in SIP (from today).
The plan is to destroy the males as they come up, and then plant another seed. I will probably isolate the best looking male and apply pollen to one branch each on the best-looking females.
It will be great if I can get a sativa CBD crop on my roof, in spite of the night security lights. I will have to put some fans in the greenhouse on the roof.

When I move to the roof I can either move the SWICKs to the AC infinity bases, or maybe I can just add some perlite to these buckets?
(How much perlite should one add?? Inquiring minds want to know!)

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I need to check humidity resistance on the four Afghan Mass XXL Autos, to see how I should let them branch, because if they are NOT mold resistant then I will have to trim them differently.
Does anyone know the best source to check AMXXL Auto for mold or humidity resistance? Thank you!

I hope to be back tomorrow night. I will try to check in if I can, but right now I'm way behind on tasks, and I still have to clean up! So I've got to run.
:morenutes: :thumb:
 
:(
Hmm... Oy...
The mold profile on Afghan Mass XXL Auto is only "medium"...
(I think this humidity here is a tad bit more than "medium"...
AMXXLA mold profile.jpg


If mold resistance is only medium, and I just lost Charlotte's four angels, I had better not just let all of the suckers grow together in one mass like that on this one. Too bad. :(
Maybe I can leave every third sucker shoot? Then there should be airflow around each of the shoots, and if mold does set in, then I should be able to see it quicker.
It might be a lighter harvest than if I just let everything grow together (like ideal), but hopefully less likely to mold (so kind of hedging my bet).
 
:(
Hmm... Oy...
The mold profile on Afghan Mass XXL Auto is only "medium"...
(I think this humidity here is a tad bit more than "medium"...
• • •
If mold resistance is only medium, and I just lost Charlotte's four angels, I had better not just let all of the suckers grow together in one mass like that on this one. Too bad. :(
Maybe I can leave every third sucker shoot? Then there should be airflow around each of the shoots, and if mold does set in, then I should be able to see it quicker.
It might be a lighter harvest than if I just let everything grow together (like ideal), but hopefully less likely to mold (so kind of hedging my bet).
Sorry, I am not following your grow too closely, but... you still have more of these autos growing and going into flower? How soon are you planning to start growing photos? Because then you can start focusing on finding phenos that are naturally resistant, from strains that are specifically known to be resistant. I mean, this is the best way in my opinion if you live in a fungus/mold zone, because then it's just *way* easier to deal with... much less need to worry about spacing, airflow, applying sprays, etc. What does make a big difference is overall plant health going into late flower, which translates to pot size and nutrients. Of course SIP is different than a normal pot, but the same applies. SIP should be more forgiving.

Some more thoughts about protecting your pots from sunlight and heat... White-ish fabric will likely mold... it sure does here! That's why I use plastic. Regarding using wet fabric... same, will mold, and I really feel that it's not necessary. Take for example heavy duty plastic tarp that's white on one side and black on the other—that would be ideal. We actually have some of that at our place here, and it's known as the "expensive" kind of tarp that lasts for like 5 years (at least). Light will not penetrate it, and the white side out will reflect the heat of the sun. Now, the reflection is not perfect, and your pots will heat a little bit, but remember about sun angle... During summer, only morning and late afternoon sun will be hitting the pot, and the heating energy is low. During winter, the sun angle is low, so probably a little heating of the pot is a good thing. My 2 cents.

:ciao:
 
Some more thoughts about protecting your pots from sunlight and heat... White-ish fabric will likely mold... it sure does here! That's why I use plastic. Regarding using wet fabric... same, will mold, and I really feel that it's not necessary. Take for example heavy duty plastic tarp that's white on one side and black on the other—that would be ideal. We actually have some of that at our place here, and it's known as the "expensive" kind of tarp that lasts for like 5 years (at least). Light will not penetrate it, and the white side out will reflect the heat of the sun. Now, the reflection is not perfect, and your pots will heat a little bit, but remember about sun angle... During summer, only morning and late afternoon sun will be hitting the pot, and the heating energy is low. During winter, the sun angle is low, so probably a little heating of the pot is a good thing. My 2 cents.
Algae might grow in direct sun on a wet surface but I've never seen mold, and I used wet towels in saucers of water on two plants all last summer (one plastic, one fabric). In the shade maybe, but this whole idea is to keep down radiant heat from direct sun. And algae growing on a towel is of no concern to the plant underneath them. White will reflect some radiant heat but some will be transmitted through the material to the pot. Wet material will have the ability to lower the temps below ambient if necessary.
 
Algae might grow in direct sun on a wet surface but I've never seen mold, and I used wet towels in saucers of water on two plants all last summer (one plastic, one fabric). In the shade maybe, but this whole idea is to keep down radiant heat from direct sun. And algae growing on a towel is of no concern to the plant underneath them. White will reflect some radiant heat but some will be transmitted through the material to the pot. Wet material will have the ability to lower the temps below ambient if necessary.
Depends on where you live, temperature, humidity, and ambient spores, etc. Here in tropical Hawaii, stuff grows like crazy wherever it can take hold. Some of my clothing has specs of black mold stains... I just don't care and live with it. So, here I would not use white fabric for reflective, because it won't be white for very long... but of course it may work in other locations... it works for you! :)
 
Not from while you're wearing it I hope! In a closet I can definitely see that happening. I had to throw out a bunch of old softballs that were sitting loose in a cabinet in the garage. :(
It just happens and there's nothing you can do about it. I hang-dry my clothes. Best not to store clothes in a closet or a dresser! Get this... if you park a car in the shade and don't open it up or drive it for some weeks or months, the entire inside of the car will be covered in fuzzy grey/white mold. Probably happens more with old cars. 🤣
 
Hi @cbdhemp808
Sorry, I am not following your grow too closely,
WHAT???? Hahahaha 😂
but... you still have more of these autos growing and going into flower?
Good questions. Thanks for stopping by, and thanks for sharing your advice and wisdom.
Sorry, it is a long answer to your question, but to try to keep it short, the grow is morphing out of necessity.
I was growing on the roof before and had a ton of problem with bugs, and then I get hit with bud mold, so that drove me back inside under LEDs. Only, the power bills are way more than I thought, so I need to go back to growing on the roof, using only materials and seeds we already have either onhand, or on the way.
I am gearing up again with neem oil, and Dr. Bronner's unscented. (The locals make a garlic and pepper spray also that I probably should stock up on because it seems to help.)

Long story but I wrote the breeder of the Indica autos that molded on the roof. He suggested that I try trochoderma (like you also recommended at one point). And he also told me that his most mold resistant strain is Haze CBD Auto Regular, which I already have. It is not a pure sativa, but he said that he has never seen it mold. So I already have it. So start with that, I guess.

So the new plan is to start eight regular haze CBD autos, and then destroy the males as they come up. But probably I will isolate the best male so I can make regular seed which I will store in Mylar in the fridge drawer.
And then realistically I will probably also try to use some of that silver thiosulfate that @InTheShed recommended, to make regular seeds, for most grows (just because it is easier). But for this first grow I think I would like to get some regular seeds (just to be sure).

I started the four Afghan Mass XXL before we got hit with the budget cuts. I could pull them, but I think I should leave them at the minute because they're indoors under fans, and realistically they can probably grow and flower right along with the photos.
I was just thinking today I should pull the three tall girls up to the small flowering/isolation tent, and go ahead and flip them. Probably I should give them a week or two to recover from the serious haircut before I flip them!
That way I can let the rest of the girls grow up a little bit more. I was hoping to let all of the Indicas get to be about the height of the two tallest girls and then flip.

How soon are you planning to start growing photos?
Good question.
Probably the simplest I can explain it is that I have night security lights here where I live, so I can only grow autos on the roof.
We just got a contract worker on the farm who is experienced with growing cannabis in greenhouses in this climate, but I'm just guessing he is used to growing sativas. Most of my existing CBD strains are Indica, so I ordered some CBD sativa seeds that are not here yet, but it is OK because they do not have the greenhouse built yet. So that's kind of a long-term thing, and then hoping that everything works out with the new worker, etc.
Anyway that's why I was excited to find out that Colombian gold has a 3:1 THC: CBD ratio. It is from here, so it does well in humidity.
So, photos are all for the farm. Here on the rooftop it has to be autos because of the security light situation.

Because then you can start focusing on finding phenos that are naturally resistant, from strains that are specifically known to be resistant.

Right. That was my plan up until about a week or two ago or whenever it was that we realized that we need to crack down on all expenditures (necessary or not), and find a cheaper way.
I have what are supposed to be mold resistant haze CBD autos for the roof, and I can start with those now, as we are just getting ready to leave the humid time before these go into flower.
I am not sure what will become of the Indica CBD strains, because I kind of need to grow those indoors under LED, just because it is a little bit less humid indoors.
The plan is to shift to sativa CBD strains, except I'm still going to want some Indica! (I do love my p.m. bud.)
They try to keep things simple around here, so I'm waiting on these new sativa photos for the farm, and I'm trying to do what I can from existing stocks where I am.
Probably there will be some mold resistant Indica but not sure what will happen yet really. I just have to play the hand I am dealt, and see.
I mean, this is the best way in my opinion if you live in a fungus/mold zone, because then it's just *way* easier to deal with... much less need to worry about spacing, airflow, applying sprays, etc.

Yes, it makes total sense, what you are suggesting. I already made a purchase of four photo CBD strains, I am just waiting for them to get here.
I hope I am communicating clearly, and that it all makes sense.
What does make a big difference is overall plant health going into late flower, which translates to pot size and nutrients. Of course SIP is different than a normal pot, but the same applies. SIP should be more forgiving.

One hopes.
Some more thoughts about protecting your pots from sunlight and heat... White-ish fabric will likely mold... it sure does here! That's why I use plastic. Regarding using wet fabric... same, will mold, and I really feel that it's not necessary. Take for example heavy duty plastic tarp that's white on one side and black on the other—that would be ideal. We actually have some of that at our place here, and it's known as the "expensive" kind of tarp that lasts for like 5 years (at least). Light will not penetrate it, and the white side out will reflect the heat of the sun. Now, the reflection is not perfect, and your pots will heat a little bit, but remember about sun angle... During summer, only morning and late afternoon sun will be hitting the pot, and the heating energy is low. During winter, the sun angle is low, so probably a little heating of the pot is a good thing. My 2 cents.

:ciao:

Thanks, CBD. I will keep it in mind. I will have to see what we already have on hand, and start with that.
Actually I have some old T-shirts that could be used. They are kind of dingy, I was thinking about swapping them out anyway. Probably they will mold, yes. I had never considered cooling the roots or the pot before, but it does make sense. Probably I will have to start with the white cotton t-shirts that I already have and see how far those get.

I hope I answered your questions clearly. If not, please let me know.
 
Algae might grow in direct sun on a wet surface but I've never seen mold, and I used wet towels in saucers of water on two plants all last summer (one plastic, one fabric). In the shade maybe, but this whole idea is to keep down radiant heat from direct sun. And algae growing on a towel is of no concern to the plant underneath them. White will reflect some radiant heat but some will be transmitted through the material to the pot. Wet material will have the ability to lower the temps below ambient if necessary.

I am thinking to start with some old white T-shirts that are starting to get dingy, and I was thinking it's time to swap them out anyway. I can start there without cost.
We can also get these cheap poly sacks that they put dirt and agricultural products in. I have three or four of them here already, and I can get more easily. They do not cost much, and I think they hold up to the sun pretty well.
It sounds like white towels would work better but really it would be better to use what we have on hand at the moment.
 
It just happens and there's nothing you can do about it. I hang-dry my clothes. Best not to store clothes in a closet or a dresser! Get this... if you park a car in the shade and don't open it up or drive it for some weeks or months, the entire inside of the car will be covered in fuzzy grey/white mold. Probably happens more with old cars. 🤣
Yeah the mold is pretty crazy here.
I have never seen mishrooms growing out of bricks before!
 
You don't need STS to make regular seeds, just a male plant. STS is so you can make feminized seeds.
Yes, thank you!
I was thinking that with eight regular seeds going in, probably about half will be male, unless Azi is right and it is only #7!
However it comes out, I was thinking to isolate the best male Just long enough to get enough pollen to pollinate one branch on the best two females.
Then if I store maybe a few dozen regular seeds correctly in Mylar in the fridge, I should be good for another four or five years.
Then I can ALSO use the STS spray on a different branch of the two best-looking females, to make feminized seeds. Then I can use them for most grows (because they are obviously easier), and still have the regular seeds as a failsafe.
Or at least it is a theory… 😂
 
Uff, zero for eight seeds came up. I pulled all the seeds from the starter cubes. Eight perfect seeds. Nothing popped.
:rip::rip::rip::rip::rip::rip::rip::rip:

I have a different vial of seeds I can try. However, since the seeds are old, I will try the paper towel routine, and then surgically implant anything that looks like it has vigor. (But that way, if nothing pops, I do not need to waste time.)
 
Try the putting in bag with banana peel and damp paper towel trick, planning to do experiment next run myself. See my thread for more detail :)
 
Try the putting in bag with banana peel and damp paper towel trick, planning to do experiment next run myself. See my thread for more detail
@CaptainLucky posted about that in my thread back in December so I dug up a link on it:

I got some 30 year old Afghani beans from smokesbetter that I was going to use that technique on later this year, so I look forward to seeing how you get on with it. :thumb:
 
Try the putting in bag with banana peel and damp paper towel trick, planning to do experiment next run myself. See my thread for more detail :)
Ok, I got a banana, and will put a peel in with the seeds.
Thank you. :thumb:
 
@CaptainLucky posted about that in my thread back in December so I dug up a link on it:

I got some 30 year old Afghani beans from smokesbetter that I was going to use that technique on later this year, so I look forward to seeing how you get on with it. :thumb:
Nice article, Shed.
Thank you.
 
There are some tricks to getting old seed to sprout, if indeed it isn't too far gone. Can't remember off the top of my head.
I have some of this Papa Zeep's Organic clone and seed starter by Covington Naturals. I have no idea what is in it, and I do not know if it works.

How Do I Apply Covington Seed Starter & Cloning Solution?
✔️New Seedlings: Roll the seeds into enough liquid to cover them completely. Do not soak the seeds more than 1-2 minutes, it will begin to break down the husk (outer layer) of the seeds. Immediately plant into rich soil. You may pour any remaining liquid into soil containing the seeds.


Ummm, so how could I employ this with the paper-towel-and-banana routine?

(Hmmm.... :hmmmm: the only thing I can think of it, maybe if they do not pop after a few days, soak them in a little dilute solution, and give them another 48 hours??)
 
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