Jackopotomus EWC & Pro-Mix 2018

Last night I watered heavily and again poured a significant amount of water in the wadding pool. This morning a lot of water had been soaked up but there was a decent amount left I waited till lights came on this evening before shop vacing the rest up. Humidity in the tent was in the 70s, but this morning when I looked extraction fan was on and humidity was in the 30's.
 
having no usable (too noisy !!!) humidifier/dehumidifier amd initial rh at only 25-30% , i used 3 10ltr buckets with soaked towels hanging into them to wick up the water when needed. This got my r.h up to the 45%-55% mark without too much maintenance needed to keep buckets watered . No space lost and no running costs.
 
Jackopotomus said:
Ya my soil is comprised of Pro-mix and my homemade earth worm castings. I've been running a worm farm for over 2 years. When I harvested my castings I had most of the worms taken out but their eggs are still in there. I'm hoping to run this no till.
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No-till... did someone mention no-till?

Can do that with worms but you need big pots and add in compost on top (not with seedlings).

I run no-till.

You need to get familiar with living mulch!

You have a ways to go tho... little ones are looking great and it looks like you did your homework on strain pics. VERY well done.

Cannabis is easy to grow in organic soil. The hard part is right now at the seedling stage. I would start thinking about a small fan. You need to harden off the seedlings just like if you were going to plant outside.

Since you like no-till - look into Malted Barley ground to a powder. Try google

"no-till malted barley cannabis"

A guy named "Coots" got us onto MBP. Good reads there to get ya started.


Get some glacial rock dust and add that to your worm bins and also your soil. The rock dust will help the worms digestive track and also improve Cation Exchange Capacity of your castings/humus/soil mix.

My recipe is:

1/3 CSPM (peat moss and not ProMix) Premier Brand tho same company but more peat moss and less bs I don't need.
1/3 humus (ewc/compost/vermi-compost)
1/3 Aeration - per-lite

Amendments:

Acadian Kelp Meal @ 1/2 Cup per cubic foot
Neem Cake and Karanja Cake 50/50 Mix @ 1/2 to 1 cup per cubic foot
Crustacean Meal @ 1/2 Cup per cubic foot
Malted Barley @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot (ground fine in a coffee grinder)


Mineral mix:

Gypsum Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Brix Blend Basalt @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Glacial Rock Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Oyster Flour @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot


This is a recipe you can put in 10 gal up to 500 gal containers with worms or not and can grow indefinitely. Eventually the container will become nothing but EWC but it will take a while. Worms do ALL my heavy lifting.

Reason for rock dusts is for the cation exchange.

I've been journaling my no-till for quite a while now.

For some amendments hard to find there's a place in Ontario not far from you (GTA) called Black Swallow Soil

Custom Blended Mixes Products from Black Swallow Living Soils, Brantford ON

They do a Coots blend you can get in Ontario. I'm not Canadian but I own a cottage in cottage country (my avatar) called Cottage 420.

When they ran hydro on the lake they numbered all the cottages that were getting hydro. We got the lucky 420 number back before it was a thing. Was and still is a sign!
 
Hey bbrown. I got my soil in 7 gallon. You mentioned 10 gallon as a starting point I've read both 7th and 10 for no till,...but you think 7 gallons is too little?

Living mulches I am familiar with. I was thinking of showing red clover or other Nitrogen fiber. I kinda just wanted to check to see my soil is working as is before throwing in some cover crop seed which will keep coming back.

I like Clackamas coots mix but why not make it easier and just do EWC and Pro-mix, after all Pro-mix is just CSPM, perlite, and vermiculite. With a little lime for pH stabilization, and some mycelium added. I know perlite is not ideal for no till as it eventually becomes like concrete but again as long as I can get through the first couple grows I'm sure I will eventually be looking at mixing up a new soil. I'm really excited to feed my trim to the worms and be making soil from cannabis so I know it will be made out of everything my plant needs.

Also I amended my base mix with DE and gaia green all purpose and power Bloom. All purpose
Ingredients: Alfalfa meal, bone meal, blood meal, glacial rock dust, mined potassium sulphate, fossilized carbon complex, rock phosphate, greensand, kelp meal, gypsum.

Power Bloom
Ingredients:
Fishbone meal, bone meal, glacial rock dust, mined potassium sulphate, fossilized carbon complex, rock phosphate, greensand, kelp meal, gypsum, bat guano.

Also as I said my ewc are over a year and a half in the making and they have had a very diverse mix of ingredients. I regularly sprinkled in crushed oyster shell, I ate oysters left the shells in the sun for a few weeks mixed it into my out door compost after several months pulled the shells out while turning again left in the sun a few weeks then placed in a canvas bag and beaten with a hammer into a powder.

So as you can see the gaia green has rock dust and green sand a several other things to help cation exchange. I also like brewing beer so eventually I want to use my spent malted barley in my soil while being able to supplement my tent with co2 produced in fermentation. I also want to make a tea from sprouted corn kernels as a rooting hormone tea I plan to get that ready for when I up pot from solo cups into 7 gallons.

Also I do have a tower fan in the tent that's keeping there little leaves moving.
Bird I actually dont run any dehumidifier that's just the rH in my house so I may just put a humidifier in there. I kinda want to see what happens when the plants fill out a little more. So far I have just been keeping the soil in my 7 gallon pots wet to keep humidity up. My thought is that once I've got my plants in the 7 gallons and they're transpiring my humidity will be significantly higher, and because I'm eventually going to be making this a perpetual grow this should be the only time I will see rH that low.
 
as long as they dont start spiralling round and end up rootbound is key to when to transplant imo. always felt the least moves possible is best so i never used to transplant more than from seed in cup /cube to final pot. used to worry it would be too big for seedlings but spiralling the waterings outwards , encourages the tap and side roots to search for its source. 30ltr fabric pots would see roots air pruning near bottom within a week( coco/perlite mix).
 
for me , if they are growing out the bottom of the cup and at risk of spiralling into clump , then i would pot them up then. be prepared for them losing cander for a small time as they settle in. you could use a supplement to prepare the hole or a very weak feed with ph,d water and spiralling it from the stem a couple of inches outward. ( assuming pre watered the bigger pot ready for them)
 
Jackopotomus said:
How long you folks usually keep a seedling in a SOLO cup before up pot?
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Just long enough to get roots then into soil. Be careful not to break the roots coming out of the btm - they are very important specially at this age.

You don't really want to get seedlings root bound. It's a little better if they are already established plants and hardened off before stressing them. If you are going into your final pots you should amend the soil with say some EWC/compost say a cup or so when you change the lighting to 12/12.

7gal should be fine in no-till. I run 7.5gal containers but I'd run larger if I could.

I try to steer clear of rock phosphates. I know its a mined product but its not really needed. Outdoors its more forgiving, its containers that are more difficult to grow in so I try and make my soil as close to compost as I can.

Aeration with per-lite you will be fine with. It won't turn into cement. I've got soil I added it into several years ago.
 
Sorry for the few days with no posts. Leaves have started to yellow on SD2 and LTK. I watered about two days ago and this morning they had a little wilt. Getting ready for a transplant. I have a 3 gallon bucket that I am brewing a simple ACT in just a handful of EWC about a Tbs of unsulphered molasses and 12 Tbs of Gaia green all purpose. Been bubbling since about noon and already getting foamy. I also have some water bubbling planning on watering the 7 gallon pots lightly tonight and tomorrow night I'll transplant and soak everything with ACT.
 
Long overdue update! So Monday I up potted the three seedlings that have taken off the trainwreck never really took so I culled it. Still 2 more seeds to attempt with for Trainwreck. I checked on the ACT and there wasn't much in terms of foam, noticed the EWC had floated to the surface and were hanging out around the bucket rim. I stirred them back in and added more molasses. On Tuesday I fed with the tea. Thursday I watered with dechlorinated water. I also lowered my lights as I noticed a bit of a stretch in the LTK. Pots still seem moist but the surface is drying out definitely need to add mulch. Girls look happy and are showing new growth. When I took them out of there solo cups there were definitely roots bunching in the Bottom but didn't look to twisted. Yellowing started showing in the bottom leaves of LTK as well as SD2 I'm now fairly confident that was just a nutritional deficiency as opposed to a pH issue. CHD has not shown any yellowing and it was a few days behind the others.
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20181209_112406.jpg

From Top Left CHD, SD2, LTK

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20181209_112446.jpg

SD2

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LTK

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CHD
 
Jackopotomus said:
Long overdue update! So Monday I up potted the three seedlings that have taken off the trainwreck never really took so I culled it. Still 2 more seeds to attempt with for Trainwreck. I checked on the ACT and there wasn't much in terms of foam, noticed the EWC had floated to the surface and were hanging out around the bucket rim. I stirred them back in and added more molasses. On Tuesday I fed with the tea. Thursday I watered with dechlorinated water. I also lowered my lights as I noticed a bit of a stretch in the LTK. Pots still seem moist but the surface is drying out definitely need to add mulch. Girls look happy and are showing new growth. When I took them out of there solo cups there were definitely roots bunching in the Bottom but didn't look to twisted. Yellowing started showing in the bottom leaves of LTK as well as SD2 I'm now fairly confident that was just a nutritional deficiency as opposed to a pH issue. CHD has not shown any yellowing and it was a few days behind the others.
20181209_112406.jpg

20181209_112406.jpg

From Top Left CHD, SD2, LTK

20181209_112446.jpg

20181209_112446.jpg

SD2

20181209_112501.jpg

20181209_112501.jpg

LTK

20181209_112509.jpg

20181209_112509.jpg

CHD
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looking good there. look settled and happy. water in a spiral outward to make the roots spread out and search for water. look like can start training them now too. what are you planning with them ?
 
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