cbdhemp808
Well-Known Member
N, P, K, Ca, Mg, S, C, pH 6.7
Looks pretty good to me! It must be from more than one source.
best of luck with that
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Ok, thanks! Why do you say that?OK, so for the Ox Virin... I wouldn't use that stuff at all.
Ok.You could hang onto the Bioxinis, but in order to know how to apply it, I would first need to understand the present state of minerals in your AMXXL SIP. Generally speaking, if you've been giving urine solution, then going into flower you also need to up the P & K. I'm feeling like your super soil, plus the N, plus some soluble P & K would be sufficient.
So I see two things going on: 1) adding some supplemental ferts to your SIPs, and 2) addressing problems such as the curl going on with AMXXL.
Something peculiar is going on with the AMXXL that's not affecting your other plants. She's going into flower, so that may imply lack of P & K (at least P & K, but perhaps others).
OR... maybe for some reason AMXXL has a root zone problem affecting the absorption of water. Perhaps there's not enough oxygen in the root zone. Perhaps there's a root pathogen.
...But alas, I am not a SIPper... best to ask the experts.
They look great!I'll catch up with you mañana and have a good meeting! 9:40pm here... gonna watch a show and hit the hay. I just posted some pics of my plants.
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Let's rule in/out the easy, most obvious possibility, environment. Leaves can start looking like that due to either light or heat stress, mostly heat stress for me.This evening I saw that the tips on Afghan Mass XXL are curling in a not-good looking way. These are indicative. The tallest ones are the worst, if that means anything.
This is also another possibility. Some strains are more resistant to a particular disease as @cbdhemp808 is showing us, but I would expect more than one plant to present with those issues if it was a virus or bacteria or something, even if not as obvious on some plants. I'd focus elsewhere to start.They have some weird diseases here.
I don't think that's it as it seemed to happen overnight and the SIP structure seems to prevent most root issues, probably because of the oxygen pocket down low. I have yet to see anyone post significant root issues (slimy, root rot, etc) in a SIP. Doesn't mean it couldn't happen, but it would be outside the data set I've seen so far.my first guess is too much water and roots can't breath. I bet @Azimuth knows.
I don't grow autos but from what I've seen they seem to grow like photoperiods except for the timing of things. Could just be especially susceptible or sensitive to something in your environment, but again I'd look elsewhere for more common issues first.The affected one is Afghan Mass XXL Auto.
Could be a general environmental issue. Has it been quite humid where you are lately? High humidity changes the way plants process water (kind of like when you put a cutting under a humidity dome so it can get water through its leaves since it no longer has roots to drink from).One Peyote WiFi CBD looks very strong, and the other is not drinking, and looks kind of limpy.
Stuff like this, especially if it's reputation is as a "big gun", should only be used in my opinion for a particular issue that has been clearly identified and its combination of ingredients is what's needed.Well I told the guy that I wanted all natural and biodegradable. He said this was the big gun.
I got this because I was researching it, and on the website they showed some picture that looked exactly like when my crop turned brown a few crops ago. So it may not have been the salt at all. It may have been a virus, or some kind of bacteria. So I thought I should get it.
The only thing is that it says "all natural" "biodegradable" and "organic", but then it says not to get it on you, just for GP's!
Have you eaten or drunk anything different recently that could change either the make up of pH or your urine? Do you use it exactly the same way each time (amount, dilution rate, application process, etc.).I have been supplementing the nitrogen with urine because I think there's not enough nitrogen in the super soil during the heavy growth phase, but that's not new. And that is every plant that is underway, not jist AMXXL auto.
OK, I drained about a half gallon out of the tank, mixed it with the required amount of the Bioxinis organic fertilizer, and we will see what that does. It claims to be some mineral, although it does not tell you what it is (which makes me suspicious).
Both, but mostly K from what I've seen.Oh, I do add the high dose of Azi's banana EWC anaerobic tea. I forget of that is P or K.
And really bad for an organic grow since it's used as an anti-microbial and will kill off the life in your soil.I am just imagining that hydrogen peroxide is going to be very hard on a plant.
Great question. Actually it was a few degrees COLD here this weekend.Let's rule in/out the easy, most obvious possibility, environment. Leaves can start looking like that due to either light or heat stress, mostly heat stress for me.
Has it been unusually hot and/or humid in your area in the past few days?
Right.This is also another possibility. Some strains are more resistant to a particular disease as @cbdhemp808 is showing us, but I would expect more than one plant to present with those issues if it was a virus or bacteria or something, even if not as obvious on some plants. I'd focus elsewhere to start.
It is very humid here now.I don't think that's it as it seemed to happen overnight and the SIP structure seems to prevent most root issues, probably because of the oxygen pocket down low. I have yet to see anyone post significant root issues (slimy, root rot, etc) in a SIP. Doesn't mean it couldn't happen, but it would be outside the data set I've seen so far.
If it were SIP related I'd expect it to develop gradually over time rather than overnight.
I don't grow autos but from what I've seen they seem to grow like photoperiods except for the timing of things. Could just be especially susceptible or sensitive to something in your environment, but again I'd look elsewhere for more common issues first.
Could be a general environmental issue. Has it been quite humid where you are lately? High humidity changes the way plants process water (kind of like when you put a cutting under a humidity dome so it can get water through its leaves since it no longer has roots to drink from).
RIght, but everyone else seems to be doing good, except for the second Peyote WiFi CBD 2:1 (which I plucked last night).This will be a general issue affecting most of the plants I your grow, but maybe to different extents.
Agree.Stuff like this, especially if it's reputation is as a "big gun", should only be used in my opinion for a particular issue that has been clearly identified and its combination of ingredients is what's needed.
I am hoping to contact USA manufacturers tomorrow, to find out what the deal is.I'm all for experimenting but you're just going into this blind. You don't know what your issue is and don't know what's in the product or what it's supposed to do.
Not a good combination.
Good questions. Overall my diet has been fairly stable.Have you eaten or drunk anything different recently that could change either the make up of pH or your urine? Do you use it exactly the same way each time (amount, dilution rate, application process, etc.).
Yes, it is pretty much standard.Once again though, if you give it to all of your plants I'd expect a urine issue would show on most of your plants.
That is why I was thinking about the Calmag.Minerals in an organic grow can take quite a while to become available to your plants, like weeks and months unless it is presented in a readily available format.
Right. And even if you do everything 100% correctly you can STILL have problems...That might be a good long term input but I wouldn't expect near term results. Plus, if you followed the Supercool recipe, you're messing with the carefully developed balance of inputs and more of some good thing can lock out other things and give you weird outcomes.
Right.Once again I'm back to trying to clearly identify the problem before you throw random stuff at it. That can start a chain of events that spiral out of control .
Oy. I always add it....If you did follow the recipe I would trust it to be balanced in what each input brings to the whole, and adding more of anything, including banana tea, can upset that balance.
Both, but mostly K from what I've seen.
Uff.Was the high dose coincident with the problem showing up?
Yeah, I would rather NOT use it!!And really bad for an organic grow since it's used as an anti-microbial and will kill off the life in your soil.
Calcium brings several things to the table in an organic grow. First off, it is a nutrient that plants need to grow, but it and your biochar also play a role in the tilth of your soil because if their cation exchange capacity affect.The ONLY thing that comes to mind is maybe I went a little heavy on the Calmag (i.e., 3 teaspoons instead of 2).
I think of biochar kind of like corral reefs in the otherwise desert of an ocean, in that it attracts life. The multitude of nooks and crevasses are home to billions of microbes that in turn drive other processes. It can really hold onto water so too much can overwet your soil, but it can work great in a dry climate or during periods of drought.I also used biochar (although I am going to discontinue that after this grow because I am recharging the soil and I do not think charcoal helps that much, just to have it in the soil after it is already spent).
1:10 up to 1:100 are the typical dilution rates, and I typically use 1:30. Those extracts do get more potent as they age so that's something to keep in mind.I cannot remember exactly but I think you said something like 1:68 was a normal feeding, and 1:34 was the high level concentration (and not to exceed that).
But I always add 1:34 once they start to throw pistils, because I want them to have enough (and I like the idea of free nutes, and other flavors, because I think it enhances the bouquet). Is that the wrong attitude / approach?
Ok, so not Subcool to the letter. Kelp will boost K, and your extra banana extract will also boost K. Have a look at the Mulder chart in my signature for the relationship between the various nutrients.I pretty much followed Subcool to the letter on this grow, except I added a little (not much) kelp, and I also used biochar
Because with living soil you wouldn't want to add anything that's going to kill bacteria or beneficial fungi including mycorrhyzae. Now, maybe you could use this stuff as a foliar spray, if such a spray was called for; however, I don't like this combination of alkaline and acid ingredients, and unspecified excipients. I have used 3% drugstore peroxide in a specific concentration with water, with some success, but only as a foliar spray. So, I'm saying keep it simple. And yeah, a bottle of peroxide is very cheap.Ok, thanks! Why do you say that?
I found some composition ingredients hidden in plain sight.
Google translate says it best. Hydrogen peroxide, peracetic acid, and acetic acid (vinegar??)
So, what?? Is this like hydrogen peroxide and vinegar for like $35 a gallon??? (And probably not even apple cider vinegar???)
Yeah, that affected Afghan Auto is a rather small plant, so it would seem to have enough nutes with the soil alone.This one is subcool's original super soil. Please let me know if you want me to list the ingredients again.
I think you have to supplement nitrogen when she's growing up, but subcool's is supposed to have all of everything included. (I used it before and it worked good. I filled the half of a 5 gallon or a 7 gallon cloth pot and grew nice big five or 6 foot bushes without even knowing what I was doing.)
Even with super soil, by the time a plant is developing buds, you may need to add P & K, as well as some N, but less N than in veg. It depends on pot size and the size of the plant.Are you saying that it looks to you like she suddenly developed a lack of P & K?
Hmmm... She's just barely getting started flowering. I have a hard time imagining that she has tapped much of the P or K yet. Maybe the roots tapped K??
I have lots of liquid PK if that is what is required, but I am not convinced.
Oh, I do add the high dose of Azi's banana EWC anaerobic tea. I forget of that is P or K.
Ok, I tried to add about 7-8% biochar (eyeballing it). Probably it was about that.Calcium brings several things to the table in an organic grow. First off, it is a nutrient that plants need to grow, but it and your biochar also play a role in the tilth of your soil because if their cation exchange capacity affect.
Think of it like adding an electrical charge to the soil that helps particles attract and repel each other leading to a more fluffed up soil. But too much electrical juice can fry your plants, and maybe that one plant is either just more susceptible or was at a critical point in the grow to be more affected than the others.
This is definitely on the suspect list.
I think of biochar kind of like corral reefs in the otherwise desert of an ocean, in that it attracts life. The multitude of nooks and crevasses are home to billions of microbes that in turn drive other processes. It can really hold onto water so too much can overwet your soil, but it can work great in a dry climate or during periods of drought.
It doesn't "get spent" and can remain in the soil for thousands of years as seen in the Terra Preta soils of the Amazon down your way.
Ahh, good point.1:10 up to 1:100 are the typical dilution rates, and I typically use 1:30. Those extracts do get more potent as they age so that's something to keep in mind.
Well...are those my only possible options?Ok, so not Subcool to the letter. Kelp will boost K, and your extra banana extract will also boost K. Have a look at the Mulder chart in my signature for the relationship between the various nutrients.
The two SIPs of Blueberry Crystal on the roof were this same batch of soil, and they were growing SUPER! They had deep blue, red, and purple tinges, and the smell and the flavors were great!! (I was sad to have to cut that grow short!) And it kicked like a mule. (I think he is into sativa CBD hazes). I put it all into the cob, and cannot wait! (But wait I must, another two months.) I liked that plant so much I hope to research blueberry CBD hazes after I exhaust all of the seeds here (which may take a while).Have you tried an actual Subcool to the letter grow and did you have K deficiencies that have you adding more or are you just monkeying around trying trying different things for fun?
Ok. Thanks. I understand that. This soil worked great for the Blueberry Crystal, so I am hoping it will work great again.I'd only use other inputs if the soil wasn't getting it done for you because of imbalance or your pots aren't big enough to sustain the entire grow. Subcool's mix is supposed to be a water-only substrate so any deviations you make send you down your own unique path.
I'm curious to see how your Dr. Seedsman turns out. My pheno looked like a sativa, had sativa effects, and tested out around 12% CBD. I think I noticed that your seedling looks more like an indica, so perhaps a different pheno. My pheno suffered from a lot of PM.Charlotte's Angel and Dr. Seedsman 30:1 are supposed to both be sativas
Could just be something strain related then and each has its peculiarities. Do you have another of that same strain now or in the past you ran with success?But I know that all of the other girls in the grow room are sitting in the exact same soil, with the exact same nutes and waters, and they all look great, except for the one I just plucked.
Yeah, so they got me on this one, because I did not know. But now I will know.RE: Ox Virin
Because with living soil you wouldn't want to add anything that's going to kill bacteria or beneficial fungi including mycorrhyzae. Now, maybe you could use this stuff as a foliar spray, if such a spray was called for; however, I don't like this combination of alkaline and acid ingredients, and unspecified excipients. I have used 3% drugstore peroxide in a specific concentration with water, with some success, but only as a foliar spray. So, I'm saying keep it simple. And yeah, a bottle of peroxide is very cheap.
Nice looking plants!What's happening with your leaves there doesn't look like bug or pathogen directly affecting the leaves, so a foliar spray wouldn't be indicated. If this isn't heat related, then it could be a root zone pathogen that's gone systemic, and I've seen plants suddenly go bad overnight in that situation. Sometimes it's just sudden death. Sometimes you can recover, as I did with my HI-BISCUS clone mom, and she survived enough so I could take some cuttings, and THIS ONE is one of her babies.
Thanks!If you've got a pathogen in the root zone, then I recommend a product like Mikrobs Microbial Superpack, with trichoderma beneficial fungi. It comes in a powder—mix 1 tsp. in 1 gal. of pure water (no chlorine!). Then just water it into your soil. Your plant may recover enough to get a harvest. If not, it was worth a try.
Yeah, maybe.As for viruses, it's possible that what you are seeing in the top leaves could be due to Hop Latent Viroid (HLVd), but I don't have any direct experience with that. Or perhaps it could be some other virus. It's definitely not a mosaic virus, which mimics variegation. But my understanding is that dealing with a possible virus isn't a matter of trying to treat the plant, but rather removing the infected plant from the grow immediately and destroying it.
Yeah, probably the banana EWC tea is not necessary.Yeah, that affected Afghan Auto is a rather small plant, so it would seem to have enough nutes with the soil alone.
Like you said, she is relatively small, as compared to a photo. So if the supersoil would seem to have enough nutes with the soil alone, then why would I need to add P & K? I feel trapped.Even with super soil, by the time a plant is developing buds, you may need to add P & K, as well as some N, but less N than in veg. It depends on pot size and the size of the plant.
I probably need to subscribe to your supersoil thread, if I have not already.In my grow, I also use a custom super soil. I'm growing big plants in 10 gal pots, and in mid to late veg I start supplementing with the infamous no-cost high-N liquid fert. The plants love it and do great. In flower, I also start adding solution-grade Langbeinite (K, Mg, S). I also use seabird guano (P) in the solution, although it's not solution-grade. So far it's working well. I have also experimented with solution-grade fish bone powder which is really high in P, and I might try using that some more for dialing-in the monster colas.
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Me, too. I am wondering if it is small. (After this latest virus revelation, I am wondering if she has stunting...)I'm curious to see how your Dr. Seedsman turns out. My pheno looked like a sativa, had sativa effects, and tested out around 12% CBD. I think I noticed that your seedling looks more like an indica, so perhaps a different pheno. My pheno suffered from a lot of PM.
Thanks for asking, Azi.Could just be something strain related then and each has its peculiarities. Do you have another of that same strain now or in the past you ran with success?
Oy va voi. I looked them up, and yes, Russets sound bad.was worried it was russets. you don't want that spreading. it's kind of a scorched earth policy to be rid of them.