Quest for 1G/W: 1K HPS Liquid Cooled on a 6' Mover in a 4x8 Tent

Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.

Why go so crazy with all the diggin, use pipes someone already was nice enough to run through the dirt for you...just run the pipes through the floor and run them parallel to your cold water intake in the house and pipetape them...might warm up the first moments of your cold water a bit, but if you run your water regular like (toilets, etc.), you will have a significant mass to dump heat into....copper conducts heat rapidly...(I am such a nerd, will admit to having considered all this and tons more stuff, bong coolers, peltiers, and more for overclocking...there I admitted it...I am free...:smokin:)

If you want some ground cooling, hammer a copper rod 4-5 ft into the ground and tie it onto your copper piping. Copper conducts fast.

Also on your external pump...you can mount it on a board and then leave one of the mounting holes empty and drill through the board, lay it on the ground and pound a rebar stake or two near it and pipe tape the rebar to the heat fins on the pump...keep your pump alive long by running it cooler.

Put a reservoir down there and run a external short run pump to dump the heat from the reservoir up to the plumbing and then back to the reservoir. Make sure the pipes make really good contact with the cold water pipe.

On the off hours, the short run pump will cool the reservoir to your water temp in your house...lots of heat storage in that to start with.

:peace: brother, from ramblin High....:grinjoint:

man, i like the way you think bro. but i'm not sure about some of it.

A 1000w hps makes a hell of a lot of heat. surprisingly so to me. but after thinking about it now it actually fits.

The luminous source efficacy (efficiency) of a 140,000 lumen, 1000w HPS is about 20%. that means 200 watts makes light in the visible spectrum, and 800 watts is making heat. now think about strapping a 800 watt heater to your cold water pipe.

now, I have about 55 gallons of water cooling my HPS, and the water is about 90*F or so. hot. now if you were to but up against a cold water line, you'd have 90* cold water for the first minute or two you use cold water whenevr the light is on. you'd be surprised how quickly a 1k HPS will raise 50 gal of water. I would guess about 5-7 degrees per hour until it hits equilibrium with the environment.

also if your cold water pipes are like mine, they are only 1 inch copper. so if you could find 40 feet of it under your house, thats only storing 40x12x.25x3.14=375 cu. in. = about a gallon and a half. not much volume after all to soak up that heat.

you're right that copper conducts quickly, but its also more expensive and harder to work with than pvc. . . but your right that it would probably work a lot better.

burying a 50 gal res might be easier than diggin a trench, but honestly its not that hard if its just dirt. . . you don't have to wheel it anywhere because you are just gonna back fill it again. so i figure its probably a full days work for one trench. worth it IMO, but i'm never afraid of putting in some elbow grease.

I think encasing copper tubing in concrete slabs on the surface of the ground around the outside of the house would be amazingly efficient 8 months out of the year around my parts and have the added benefit like tor was saying of putting that waste to a use, thus making it no longer waste.

my friend doesn't have a meter on his water, it's just monthly flat rate. . . he could run to waste, and that would be by far the easiest and cheapest way for him to run water cooled. that's another option too.

personally I want to do the trench thing because it would be fun to do for me. I like that kind of stuff and the feeling of accomplishment after I do it myself.
 
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.

I misted the plants about once a day from the first day of 12/12 and Bloom Nutes up until buds started to form. (I dont foliar feed budding plants)

I never really bothered once I switched over to using veg nutes up until flowers formed. The extra 2 weeks of veg nutes and seemed to carry enough to prevent premature N def. in the fan leaves during bloom.

oh, thanks, now I understand i think. . . so now you stick with the veg nutes for the first couple weeks of flower, and the foliar became unnecessary.

thanks for clearing that up bro-miester.
 
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.

I do understand brother, I use to love the labor part of working on one of my idea's...was satisfying.

Did not mean to poo poo your idea if that was how it sounded. :smokin:

:peace:

BTW, there is a whole lot more than 40 ft of pipe...it does connect to the city water.

And the fact that passive radiation from a drum keeps your water at 90F should show you that you are not actually fighting 800W of heat, should be easy to calculate the surface area of the barrel, the temperature difference in the room, the thermal conductivity of air.

You are actually fighting the direct thermal transfer through the base of the bulb into the fixture (going through an insulator I assume that the thermal transfer rate is slowed, but is probably actually the single largest source of actual heat transfer into the water). And the rest is a double passive conduction through dry air which can hold little heat...so no matter what heat the bulb gives off the air can only hold so much of it and it isn't moving past the glass so conduction is from random heat eddies or convection (same thing but treating the air as a fluid since it is trapped and non laminar). And there there is direct radiation...which is normally really low, but considering the temperature of the bulb, might be similar in numbers to the passive air conduction. And if you add anything to the water, that radiation effect will grow. (Did a little bit of studying when I was nerding it up on overclocking.)

A small car heater core and a fan drawing cool air through it inline with your pump would greatly increase your heat removal capacity for that system.

Water speed is a really big factor though, so the pump must be able to handle the runs...slow water is slow transfer.

I believe all the above details to be accurate but I am no thermal engineer...my dad was but wasn't like took me aside and taught me...wish he had though.

:Rasta: I did it again...I start trying to give a small post and end up with this, I can remove it if you want...
 
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.

I'm still jealous.

Your STG is looking like a fresh Snow Day!

:cheesygrinsmiley:

Really nice grow Wheel!

SF

lol, thanks SF, they are getting thirstier by the week, and bigger. The aero should be kickin off soon enough too. stay tuned my brother.
 
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.

I do understand brother, I use to love the labor part of working on one of my idea's...was satisfying.

Did not mean to poo poo your idea if that was how it sounded. :smokin:

:peace:

BTW, there is a whole lot more than 40 ft of pipe...it does connect to the city water.

And the fact that passive radiation from a drum keeps your water at 90F should show you that you are not actually fighting 800W of heat, should be easy to calculate the surface area of the barrel, the temperature difference in the room, the thermal conductivity of air.

You are actually fighting the direct thermal transfer through the base of the bulb into the fixture (going through an insulator I assume that the thermal transfer rate is slowed, but is probably actually the single largest source of actual heat transfer into the water). And the rest is a double passive conduction through dry air which can hold little heat...so no matter what heat the bulb gives off the air can only hold so much of it and it isn't moving past the glass so conduction is from random heat eddies or convection (same thing but treating the air as a fluid since it is trapped and non laminar). And there there is direct radiation...which is normally really low, but considering the temperature of the bulb, might be similar in numbers to the passive air conduction. And if you add anything to the water, that radiation effect will grow. (Did a little bit of studying when I was nerding it up on overclocking.)

A small car heater core and a fan drawing cool air through it inline with your pump would greatly increase your heat removal capacity for that system.

Water speed is a really big factor though, so the pump must be able to handle the runs...slow water is slow transfer.

I believe all the above details to be accurate but I am no thermal engineer...my dad was but wasn't like took me aside and taught me...wish he had though.

:Rasta: I did it again...I start trying to give a small post and end up with this, I can remove it if you want...

lol, i do it all the time. . . no worries, you free to talk it up here.

I'm not exactly a thermal engineer either, but I have taken more than one class on thermo while I was getting my first degree in physics, so i'm full up with equations to calculate heat capacities, thermal transfer rates and flow rates.

I could do all the math and really figure out what it would take, but instead, I'd rather just over shoot the amount of cooling needed significantly enough to just wing it and not worry about all that. Trial and error has worked for ever and it still does a nice job today.

I didn't take your tone badly, hopefully you don't take mine that way either. just a couple of homies bouncing ideas off each other is more like it.

you right about the radiator, but where are you moving the heat? right now it slowly escapes into the environment, but most of it is held in the water. if you radiated it into the environment again, you're defeating the purpose of the water cooling in the first place by running it right back into the room you just removed it from. . . that would work well if I had a separate room to vent to, but i dont.

man, I wish I owned a house.

also your right, alot more than 40 feet of pipe all together, but the water in my pipes stay stationary most of the time. unless i flush or shower or do dishes it just sits there waiting. That would warm up very quikly the part you had joined together. . . maybe in an apartment building or someone who is constantly running water, but I don't really use all that much being a single guy.

didn't mean to shoot down any ideas, just trying to work it out in my head. . . there are always ways to get something to work, so you could probably do that in some situations, or mod the idea to get it to work in the others, but I think it wouldn't work well enough to cool the 1k i have going now, with the amount of pipe i'd have available to me.
 
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.

I didn't take you tone badly at all, just wanted you to be sure...I like sharing :Rasta:.

And I have the same problem as you, no where to really vent my closet externally, so my "cave" is basically shared with my grow space.

450W (bloom) + 100W (grow) shared with my apartment has been very manageable in winter...will see about the upcoming summer though...I would love a 400W on a mover in one of those things for my closet though.

:peace: my friend.
 
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.

I didn't take you tone badly at all, just wanted you to be sure...I like sharing :Rasta:.

And I have the same problem as you, no where to really vent my closet externally, so my "cave" is basically shared with my grow space.

450W (bloom) + 100W (grow) shared with my apartment has been very manageable in winter...will see about the upcoming summer though...I would love a 400W on a mover in one of those things for my closet though.

:peace: my friend.

a 40 gal res with a 400w hps on 12/12 would run so cool you wouldn't believe it. . . when I turn my light down to 500 watts, it barely does shit to get the res hot, and thats on an 18 hour on schedule. and a mover would make 400w act like a 600. plus you could get the light close as hell to the canopy and get some really great penetration. IMO, those are two of the best pieces of equipment you can buy to maximize a small space.

your closet is 6'x2' no? a 4' mover would cost you 80 bucks. and then the fresca would run 300 when all is said and done, and (i would go with 600 since it is the most efficient) a 400w HPS would run $150. so yeah, $500 to upgrade. . . kinda expensive compared to your setup now, but in the long run well worth it.

your state has such a low pant limit, if you want to pull 4oz+ per, you'll need really big plants and lots of light.
 
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.

Wheelo' I was looking at the Fresca Sol and it says the highest MH it works with is 400W. Is that because of the size of the bulbs, and how did you run MH with the 500W setting? A 430W bulb?

I'm going to get one of those Quantum dimmables for sure. Not sure about the cooling part, though. I was looking at the Ice Box (Hydro Innovations) for a cooler because it cools the whole tent while cooling the light. Any thoughts on that product?
 
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.

Yeah this 3 plant in bloom limit sucks and 6 plant period, but this June I will have another license to grow for....:smokin:(my wife). So I can adapt a bit more.

Seen my current two girls? I am hoping for a decent harvest from them. They are at least getting nicely frosty early on, is a good sign for potency.

I can dream about a nice little setup like that, mine does ok for now though....:bong:

:peace: my friend.
 
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.

Wheelo' I was looking at the Fresca Sol and it says the highest MH it works with is 400W. Is that because of the size of the bulbs, and how did you run MH with the 500W setting? A 430W bulb?

I'm going to get one of those Quantum dimmables for sure. Not sure about the cooling part, though. I was looking at the Ice Box (Hydro Innovations) for a cooler because it cools the whole tent while cooling the light. Any thoughts on that product?

yeah, MH are wide bulbs, so anything bigger than 400 just wont fit in the jacket. I don't run MH, i am running a 1k HPS. Right now it is at 500w, because it was hot as hell out, and in my room. I have the quantum dimmable so i can set it to 500 750 1000. I will set it back up to 1000 when it cools down, but it's a shame because they are growing nicely at about 3/4"-1" per day at 1kw. If I had a 1kw MH bulb, the quantum could run them at the same settings as the HPS, but i couldn't fit it in the fresca. I prefer HPS anyways, they work good for veg, better for flower.

The ice box looks cool too, i was looking at them too but there are some downsides. . . first it still uses air cooling, with means fans, noise, electricity, also I'd have to buy the ice boxes, the air cooled hoods, the fans, all of that will cost more than the fresca and a decent pump. Now if you already had all of the air cooled setup like McBudz and had a decent amount put into equipment already, I would say the the Ice boxes would be a great cheap way to add cooling for the summer. but from scratch, i go with the fresca every time. first off, SILENCE! so so nice. so nice. second, I there is no way the ice box could work as wel as the fresca, simply due to how sweet the fresca design is. when the res is cool, the jacket is cool.

so yeah, I think they look like quality buys if you have all the air cooled setup already. . . fresca is where i'd go from scratch.

Yeah this 3 plant in bloom limit sucks and 6 plant period, but this June I will have another license to grow for....:smokin:(my wife). So I can adapt a bit more.

Seen my current two girls? I am hoping for a decent harvest from them. They are at least getting nicely frosty early on, is a good sign for potency.

I can dream about a nice little setup like that, mine does ok for now though....:bong:

:peace: my friend.

yeah, it's just cool to be able to do it legally at all bro. I would take your position. lol. I would scrog out 3 plants to like be 4x8 and be vegging another 4x8 to swap when I finish those. go for like, 10 oz per plant. lol.
 
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.

Well, I'm trying to get the aero going so I can get these girls into flower. . .

the only problem is I don't really have a sufficient pump to run it yet, and after talking to butch a bit, I'm not sure my plan to run it from the same reservoir was very good. lol.

so here we go,

here it is all finished for now. I might ziptie a few more down, once i'm satisfied with checking performance.

Day-31-Veg01.JPG


Day-31-Veg02.JPG


after all was said and done, I ended up with 29 sites all 6 inches apart.

Day-31-Veg03.JPG


I used 1/2"x1/2"x1/4" tees

Day-31-Veg05.JPG


just screwed in the self tapping ezcloner sprayers. drilled a 1/2" hole, and dropped in the line. easy as that. the tees were 7 bucks for 10. the sprayers were like .65-.75 each.I used 30 in total.

Day-31-Veg04.JPG
 
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.

now, the error in conception was that i thought i was just going to share a res with the Ebb n Gro. My entire design was setup to run on the same res. right now the res sits at about 1.7 EC, so about 1200 ppm. not exactly a good cloning environment. you can also see that my res is getting warm. were having a heat wave, the pH is off a bit from the light being on, it's really about 5.7.

Day-31-Veg06.JPG


the other problem I have right now is lack of pumpage. I have two spare 300 gph pumps if I hook one up to each side of the aero it looks like this. . . keep in mind this is the closest sprayer to the pump. but the all do spray.

Day-31-Veg07.JPG


Day-31-Veg08.JPG


Day-31-Veg09.JPG


now i guess if push came to shove, i could move the EnG res over and run a new res for the Aero, but man I don't want to do that, for flower especially. . . I could handle it for veg maybe. ugh. I can get the clones very easy from the EnG it is growing like a beast,
 
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.

talk about growth, these girls are obviously establishing a healthy root system. . .

here is a pick of day 28

Day-28-veg11.JPG


Day-28-veg10.JPG


and here are two from day 30. 2 days, 2". i need to get into flower soon. lol.

Day-31-Veg10.JPG


Day-31-Veg11.JPG
 
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.

so what to do, what to do. . .

how can I make this easy on myself?

build a little 30 site DIY aero cloner, veg then in there till I can switdh to 12/12 and try a light schedule and still try to share the res?

Move the current res and run a second? something i was hoping to avoid.

really, of it becomes too much of a hassle, I'll just go to flower w/o the aero going and say F' it . I am too busy to rearrange everything now, and I want to go to flower asap.

suggestions? comments?
 
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.

Lol, yeah.

With your pH controller and things, duplicating reservoir setups might be more complicated than just dragging in an additional barrel. But with only one supplying both cuttings that you're rooting and well-established plants, you're either going to be pushing the cuttings at the edge of burn while barely feeding the plants, or...

Is there an or?
 
Re: Quest for 1g/w: 1k hps liquid cooled on a 6' mover in a 4x8 tent.

Those look like they're already in flower. Am I seeing things or are the nodes already asymmetrical?

That doesn't mean that a cannabis plant is in flower. It just means that it is mature and able to flower. They do that if you give them a vegetative period of decent length.
 
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