Is this leaf septoria? If so, what should I do?

Normally with just a bit of luck and little effort you can get to harvest. You have added enough effort to offset the bad luck.
I am setting up my tent to harvest the plants in the tent. On 3 of them I seen some amber trichomes yesterday. Only thing I couldn't tell was if the trichomes I was looking at were on the leaves or buds. My kid was wired and kept running around shaking the plants so I couldn't get a great look. Those plants are pitiful.....but they have had it really rough. The way I am looking at it is this is practice for harvest, drying and curing for the outside plants.
 
I'd say outside growers are well advised not to use amber as a gauge for harvest timing as the sun can turn trichomes amber long before the plant is done making THC. I use the clear to cloudy ratio as a harvest gauge as well as how much the drinking has slowed down.
I want to try to find a recipe that has been used for long period, successful outdoor grows so if you know of one hook me up!
Revs soil recipe is pretty well known, tried and tested. @StoneOtter just posted his version here:
https://www.420magazine.com/communi...o-sweeten-your-day-otters.539440/post-6030717
 
I'd say outside growers are well advised not to use amber as a gauge for harvest timing as the sun can turn trichomes amber long before the plant is done making THC. I use the clear to cloudy ratio as a harvest gauge as well as how much the drinking has slowed down.

Revs soil recipe is pretty well known, tried and tested. @StoneOtter just posted his version here:
https://www.420magazine.com/communi...o-sweeten-your-day-otters.539440/post-6030717
I would say 90 to 95 percent white the other 5 to 10 percent clear or amber.
 
Still drinking? And is that on the sugar leaves or the calyxes? Doesn't look close to done to me, and it's only Sept. 24th.
I have inside plants in a tent too. And my soil is hydrophobic....its hard to tell how much it drinks. I will water it, think all is good and an hour later look at it and there is a puddle under it. As far as sugar leaves or calyxes.....IDK....my hands are so damn shaky I can't tell.
 
I have inside plants in a tent too. And my soil is hydrophobic....its hard to tell how much it drinks. I will water it, think all is good and an hour later look at it and there is a puddle under it. As far as sugar leaves or calyxes.....IDK....my hands are so damn shaky I can't tell.
This was the best pic I could get and it took me a little bit to get it.

2024-09-24-185417625.jpg
 
It may take a long time for it to break down completely and probably depends on the amendment too, but I have used blood meal a few times to combat nitrogen deficiencies and langbeinite for potassium deficiencies and within a week seen an improvement. I haven't had any phosphorus deficiencies so I cannot say how quickly the bone meal takes to break down enough to start becoming available.
It appears that most half-way decent dirt soils already have enough phosphorous to handle the plant's needs. Botanists are starting to say that just because the phosphorous is what the plant uses to produce flowers does not mean that a bunch 'more is better'.

I cannot say how quickly the bone meal takes to break down enough to start becoming available.
The finer ground the bone the faster it breaks down. The smaller the pieces the more total surface area for the micro-organisms to live on, eat and die.
 
They will continue to ripen for hours not days, so no significant change. Color may shift but it is purely aesthetic. Curing is not ripening, it is refining the chlorophylls out. You can see the trichs but you can not trust the color to indicate ripe on dry bud. Some will ripen faster than others on one plant. Just like every apple on a tree is not equally ripe at one time. Separating before the cure is a good way to add variety to one strain. If you know you prefer a certain point of ripe on a strain you can harvest in stages. Only pick the ripe buds, wait a few days then pick more, wait then pick the rest.
 
They will continue to ripen for hours not days, so no significant change. Color may shift but it is purely aesthetic. Curing is not ripening, it is refining the chlorophylls out. You can see the trichs but you can not trust the color to indicate ripe on dry bud. Some will ripen faster than others on one plant. Just like every apple on a tree is not equally ripe at one time. Separating before the cure is a good way to add variety to one strain. If you know you prefer a certain point of ripe on a strain you can harvest in stages. Only pick the ripe buds, wait a few days then pick more, wait then pick the rest.
I want to have a little of a variety because everyone likes something different. I am a lightweight and hate couch lock so the least ripe will probably be what I prefer. My husband likes a little body buzz but not to the point of couch lock so I am guessing he will like it with a few ambers.

I have 1 Do-Si-Do, 1 Sour Diesel, 1 Chocolate Thai and 1 Blueberry in my tent. Where I got the seeds from said average flower time was 62 days. I am at day 71. My Blueberry is not even close to being done. If I had to guess I would say it has another 3 to 4 weeks to go. Since there are less that 12 hours of sunlight can I move this plant outside to allow it to finish flowering? I need my tent. The Chocolate Thai plants that I started last month and gave away made their way back to me. Also, when my outside plant broke, I cloned 8 clippings from it. I didn't have high expectations, but all 8 are still alive so far. I cannot see the roots yet but I gently tugged on them yesterday and none of them came out of the rapid rooters so I believe they are rooting.
 
Fish Bone Meal. My plan of just following the instructions for the Coast of Maine's Stonington Blend wasn't working. This is my first grow and I have just been figuring it out as I go so there hasn't been a regimen....just dealing with the issues as they come.



It may take a long time for it to break down completely and probably depends on the amendment too, but I have used blood meal a few times to combat nitrogen deficiencies and langbeinite for potassium deficiencies and within a week seen an improvement. I haven't had any phosphorus deficiencies so I cannot say how quickly the bone meal takes to break down enough to start becoming available.


I look for ones that are OMRI listed. But you're right, they have to have some kind of preservative in them at the very least. I don't want to start using them all the time. Just for deficiencies.

After I get through harvest I am going to attempt to make my own soil. I want to try to find a recipe that has been used for long period, successful outdoor grows so if you know of one hook me up! I think not only the plant size but the long period of an outdoor grow has an impact on the nutes available in the soil.
I'm keeping up with the thread. Personally I'm using fox farms with great results. Outside I was feeding once a week. Before planting I dug out holes where I was planting and mixed cow manure and compost in with just the basic expert garden soil. A lot of sand clay and rocks here. Blended it. Making a sort of raised beds. Clay is being built up around the rim of my whole. Might as well use what I'm digging out to my benefit. Inside I'm switching to hydroponics. Doing a basic dwc and I'm loving the difference. Coco coir has been a rough time figuring out how to mix it well enough to not kill root growth.
 
One of the most common issues we run into is over watering. Those edges and too heavy tops could very easily be too much water. Just like leaves drooping buds will too. Stems get a little softer. Almost every issue I've ran into as far as nutrients and cosmetics have been due to too much water, either in soil or on the vegetation.
 
I want to have a little of a variety because everyone likes something different. I am a lightweight and hate couch lock so the least ripe will probably be what I prefer. My husband likes a little body buzz but not to the point of couch lock so I am guessing he will like it with a few ambers.

I have 1 Do-Si-Do, 1 Sour Diesel, 1 Chocolate Thai and 1 Blueberry in my tent. Where I got the seeds from said average flower time was 62 days. I am at day 71. My Blueberry is not even close to being done. If I had to guess I would say it has another 3 to 4 weeks to go. Since there are less that 12 hours of sunlight can I move this plant outside to allow it to finish flowering? I need my tent. The Chocolate Thai plants that I started last month and gave away made their way back to me. Also, when my outside plant broke, I cloned 8 clippings from it. I didn't have high expectations, but all 8 are still alive so far. I cannot see the roots yet but I gently tugged on them yesterday and none of them came out of the rapid rooters so I believe they are rooting
When you harvest, cloudy to amber, is more of a subtle but noticeable fine tuning dial. Strain is the big factor on how it hits. It dose sound like you want to go easy on the ambers.

Not finishing when predicted by the package is one of the most popular topics. Especially this time of year. They are almost always overly optimistic flower times. Under perfect conditions, start counting in full flower until earliest possible harvest and the package will be close. Adding one to three weeks is normal.

As long as your cuttings have leaves and veg light schedule they can root. In veg the plant hormones focus on stems and leaves requiring N. In flower the hormones focus on flowers and roots requiring P. They will look like golden rod weeds while they reveg and grow roots.
 
Back
Top Bottom