Thank you for explaining the yeast and honey more thoroughly. I've found most of the funguses etc are a constant battle, impossible to eradicate , naturally everywhere basically. Having something continually fighting made a big difference. Far less time having to spray and treat.
Is this leaf septoria? If so, what should I do?
- Thread starter Lovie
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- #22
They are doing much better.....and constantly improving. I removed the tree that I believe was the source of the fungus, I have been spraying with copper fungicide and removing infected leaves. I am down to removing infected leaves every 2 to 3 days. Each time fewer leaves need to be removed. I am concerned that once fall gets here, it may become bad again because of the trees shedding their leaves. Several trees along my property line that have fungus and/or mold. When it is closer to fall I may try Dustin84 suggestion to hopefully prevent the fungus from becoming out of control.
If my understanding is correct, you want to leave the baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) out of the mixture if using as a foilier spray in flowering stages.
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Until now the only plants I have ever had were indoor spider plants. All of this is new to me. I never paid attention to the fungus and mold on the trees until now. If I decide to grow outside again I will need to find strains that are resistant to mold and fungus.I'm sure others can explain much better. I'm in the woods so I'm constantly fighting something. Removing too much too quickly causes different issues. I haven't had the seporia destroy anything, just make it look unsightly.
Septoria did have one of my plants looking terrible for a moment, but it bounced back. I have had that plant looking terrible a few times now.....and it always comes back! I didn't notice the infection right away because it started in the bottom, center of the canopy and the canopy is very wide. Yesterday, I measured the diameter of the canopy at the widest part and it measured 49 inches. Also, when pruning I would leave more on the outside of the canopy since it would be able to get light so that helped hide the infection too.
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- #26
Sativa1970 is full of useful knowledge!
it goes very quickly. It's in the ground, air, other vegetation. Cedars and junipers nearby are likely my cause here. New spots daily. Slows growth a bit. I have an 8 ft White widow that I can climb inside of. Instead of harvesting in September it'll likely be mid Oct. It was the first set planted and likely one of the last harvested. That seems to be the biggest issue. Have to wait longer.
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- #28
The long wait does suck. Have you tried Copper Fungicide? It has helped me out a lot! Another thing I have noticed the leaves that I am finding to be infected now are in areas of dense foliage where the leaves are touching. If you have dense foliage you may want to try to thin it out a little to allow for more airflow.
I've avoided the copper fungicide as well. Trimming off damages and opening up sunlight under the canopy does help. This year I've been pacing with new growth to do trimming. I'm having a far better time with it. I have a feeling that the climate zone I'm in has an effect on its speed of growth. It probably won't be until November or December before seeing regular frost.
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- #30
I haven't fed in a while so I don't think it is a sign of too much of anything. It has to be environmental or a deficiency. We have had mild weather the past week. Temps in the low 80s and sunny. The UV index has been high....I am not sure if that would affect it or not. I am not sure what the humidity has been, but I would be shocked if it was low......it's never low here. In the past when I have over-watered I notice the leaves appear droopy and soggy. I haven't noticed that either. It has been windy. Could wind cause the tips to curl under?
Wind can dry them out and cause similar. It's difficult to pinpoint. Mid to upper 70s for temp is ideal, I'm looking at heat up to 110. I'm not sure about ideal humidity, 60s? Dew point? Need a boost of phosphorus or potassium?
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- #32
A phosphorus boost could be needed. Yesterday, I fed the last of the bone fish meal I had. I didn't have enough for a full feeding. Could a micronute deficiency cause this?
Sativa1970
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Baking soda is an alkaline. You don't want it on the plant without something to neutralize it. I will not kill fungus. It shifts the PH to a range that the spores stop developing. Once the soda neutralizes in a few days, the fungus resumes where it paused. Yeast is a fungus. Your growing yeast in a high PH so they are PH tolerant. Adding this to the plant pauses the wild yeast while your "domestic" beneficial yeast eat and reproduce. Copper is a natural fungicide but it kills all fungus so you don't want it in your organic soil. Lowest recommended dose every 2 weeks will prevent reinfection, not harm the plant, buds or the smoker.
VPD (vapor pressure deficit) will give you the correct humidity for any temp. In the low 80s you want 45% to 60% humidity in early flower. If at night your temp drops from 80 to 70 forcing the RELATIVE humidity to go up from 60% to 84%. You can not adjust this outside but it can explain issues. This prevents you from trying to fix something else that is not actually broken and now you have two problems. Too much humidity leaves curl down and too little the tips curl up. Too much or too little water in the soil leaves droop down.
Micro nute deficiency in an organic soil is almost impossible. It is also pretty hard to over feed micro in soil. If you already have bottled micro, a small dose shouldn't hurt. Easy way to eliminate a possibility.
cal mag is a macro nute that carries of N and P. So low cal mag presents as low N or P. In high levals it blocks the same nutes so in excess it presents as low N or P. Maybe still the effects of the cal boost?
Was 110 a typo? The plant can live, in veg, at 110 and 80% but far from ideal. In flower high temps beak down cannabinoids and terpenes. 55 to 90 deg is your extremes of the flowering growth range. 5 deg higher in veg. Outside of that range the plant is in dormant survival mode. The plant will consume vary little nutrient. Inside that range temp is not the controlling factor of nutrient use. Light and humidity determine mineral conversion to glucose and therefore total mineral demand.
VPD (vapor pressure deficit) will give you the correct humidity for any temp. In the low 80s you want 45% to 60% humidity in early flower. If at night your temp drops from 80 to 70 forcing the RELATIVE humidity to go up from 60% to 84%. You can not adjust this outside but it can explain issues. This prevents you from trying to fix something else that is not actually broken and now you have two problems. Too much humidity leaves curl down and too little the tips curl up. Too much or too little water in the soil leaves droop down.
Micro nute deficiency in an organic soil is almost impossible. It is also pretty hard to over feed micro in soil. If you already have bottled micro, a small dose shouldn't hurt. Easy way to eliminate a possibility.
cal mag is a macro nute that carries of N and P. So low cal mag presents as low N or P. In high levals it blocks the same nutes so in excess it presents as low N or P. Maybe still the effects of the cal boost?
Was 110 a typo? The plant can live, in veg, at 110 and 80% but far from ideal. In flower high temps beak down cannabinoids and terpenes. 55 to 90 deg is your extremes of the flowering growth range. 5 deg higher in veg. Outside of that range the plant is in dormant survival mode. The plant will consume vary little nutrient. Inside that range temp is not the controlling factor of nutrient use. Light and humidity determine mineral conversion to glucose and therefore total mineral demand.
Not a typo. Where I live we're going back into the 90s and we'll likely see 100+ a few more times. Heat index will be the 110 area. High temps are hard on the ladies. I'm quite a bit off from ideals. Inside is another story. Almost ideal besides the basement.
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- #35
The bone fish meal I added yesterday has 18% calcium. Maybe I should hold off a week to give the bonefish meal a chance to start breaking down before doing anything else?
Sativa1970
Well-Known Member
Ahh! ok, I thought you were trying to push the heat up like a green house. This is the time of year flowering starts here and today is a cool 96 deg at only 102 index. Still have another month before we start getting highs consistently bellow 90. As long as she has enough to drink she will continue photosynthesis early and late day. Mid day heat, she will use the glucose and restock the water and minerals in the leaves. You can minimize heat stress by misting with PH water early morning to supper hydrate her for the day. Increasing K reduces stress also.
Sativa1970
Well-Known Member
That should cover any calcium requirements it may have and the slow release will help prevent over feeding. What abought mag? 2 TBS of epsom salt in a gallon of water is a months supply of mag. Assuming you have no mag left available in the soil.
It takes a moment. I think a lot of our concerns ATM are due to natural changes with going into the autumn months. Leaves will start turning more quickly etc. Starting to seriously inspect buds for worms and seeds. I've got a few almost ready, just trying to let them add some weight.
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- #39
I inspect my plants every morning for caterpillar eggs. A few times in the past month I have found a leaf with at least 100 eggs on it.......good thing moths lay all the eggs together and they are white, it makes it easy to spot.
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- #40
I always keep Epsom Salt on hand. It's one of my go-to items for wound care. I will add some my next watering.
Question though, that plant is sitting in 50 gallons of soil. I normally don't measure the water, just keep adding with the hose, wait a few minutes, and check to see if the bottom of the pot is damp and if it's not add more. Do I need to add 2 tbs to every gallon of water I add or just dilute 2tbs in a gallon of water, give it to the plant then water as normal?
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