Is this leaf septoria? If so, what should I do?

I always keep Epsom Salt on hand. It's one of my go-to items for wound care. I will add some my next watering.

Question though, that plant is sitting in 50 gallons of soil. I normally don't measure the water, just keep adding with the hose, wait a few minutes, and check to see if the bottom of the pot is damp and if it's not add more. Do I need to add 2 tbs to every gallon of water I add or just dilute 2tbs in a gallon of water, give it to the plant then water as normal?
The second thing, only reverse it. Water the plant thoroughly and then add the gallon of mix so you aren't just washing it right thru.
 
Finding tiny black beads, assuming I've got a pesky critter leaving eggs everywhere
Indoor or outdoor?

Identify them is the first step. Be sure that they are caused by a pest first and that they or the little beads will be bad for your plants next.
 
Indoor or outdoor?

Identify them is the first step. Be sure that they are caused by a pest first and that they or the little beads will be bad for your plants next.
Could be a few things. Green to black colors. Kinda like sandy grit. I had something similar last year with bud rot. Kinda wondering if it's not some type of spores, between rain and pests I wouldn't be surprised. I'm snipping my "prize" atm. It has some worms. No worries there. Pull and kill as I trim. The other on my OG Kush.. I need sunlight and a ladder for a better idea of how bad
 
Do you use anything for pest control like BT, or pyrethrin? @Sativa1970 knows of a few organic things to use to control the pest if you don't want to use something like that.
I use nicotine/pepper mixture. Diatomaceous Earth, other than that soapy water. Not looking for chemicals. It's harvest time. I might be able to get a better picture today and see if anyone recognizes it. It's not a major right now rush. But it's ready, just got to watch it for now. Cut away what I see as I'm in between trimming. I'm working on my biggest plant to finish so far and I'm still trimming it up. More outside. In the same garden I have 8 more to start looking through more closely and chopping as I can make room. Few of them much more to go through

IMG_20240825_101524.jpg
 
Indoor or outdoor?

Identify them is the first step. Be sure that they are caused by a pest first and that they or the little beads will be bad for your plants next.
I figured out it is eggs from the worms. Drying out will send them on their way but until then damage. Rot.. would a cold water bath and drying with a fan help knock out the eggs, kill worms? It's time to harvest so I don't mind washing if it will help. Thankfully don't have the entire plant filled. Just various areas
 
I figured out it is eggs from the worms.
I don't think so. I would have to take a look at the real thing but I believe those "eggs" are actually the poop from those worms you are seeing.

I just finished a bit of research on Bud Worms and verified that their life cycle involves the adult moth laying the eggs on the leaves and tender plant material which can include new buds. Within days the eggs hatch and form a small worm. The worm can go through several shedding of their skin until it finally becomes a moth. This takes just under 3 weeks in many cases. Now the adult female moth can lay up to 1500 eggs over her short lifetime. The process starts over.

Several web sites brought up that by the time you see the worms actively feeding on buds and see the damage that they are doing it is already too late. Some of them have already turned into the moth and have laid new eggs in and on the leaves. The gardener has to start spraying quickly at the first sign, which was probably several weeks ago.

I use nicotine/pepper mixture. Diatomaceous Earth, other than that soapy water. Not looking for chemicals. It's harvest time.
I can understand wanting to stay away from chemicals but what you are using is probably not going to work. A common recommendation found on several web sites is to use Captain Jacks Deadbug Brew. It is listed as meeting the requirements for being an organic insecticide. I have seen it at most larger garden centers, grow shops and hydro stores. It is available already mixed and probably in a spray bottle and available as a concentrate that you can mix as needed.

It's time to harvest so I don't mind washing if it will help.
There is the thread on Bud Washing. If you want to go that route then do all the suggested steps including the first wash using a water & hydrogen peroxide mix.
 
I don't think so. I would have to take a look at the real thing but I believe those "eggs" are actually the poop from those worms you are seeing.

I just finished a bit of research on Bud Worms and verified that their life cycle involves the adult moth laying the eggs on the leaves and tender plant material which can include new buds. Within days the eggs hatch and form a small worm. The worm can go through several shedding of their skin until it finally becomes a moth. This takes just under 3 weeks in many cases. Now the adult female moth can lay up to 1500 eggs over her short lifetime. The process starts over.

Several web sites brought up that by the time you see the worms actively feeding on buds and see the damage that they are doing it is already too late. Some of them have already turned into the moth and have laid new eggs in and on the leaves. The gardener has to start spraying quickly at the first sign, which was probably several weeks ago.


I can understand wanting to stay away from chemicals but what you are using is probably not going to work. A common recommendation found on several web sites is to use Captain Jacks Deadbug Brew. It is listed as meeting the requirements for being an organic insecticide. I have seen it at most larger garden centers, grow shops and hydro stores.


There is the thread on Bud Washing. If you want to go that route then do all the suggested steps including the first wash using a water & hydrogen peroxide mix.
Either way it's due to the worms. Larvae/eggs or poop. Our nicotine/pepper brew actually does keep most bugs off. Moths.. a bit of a different story. Rain washed wasps and other predators away, within days bothersome ones took over. Right now is the question of how to minimize damage. No funds for store bought. No neem oil. This afternoon I'll get a better idea of how much. Trimming a different plant took all night. I need a few 🤣
 
Putting nets over your plants works well too, if they can't get to your plants then they can't lay the eggs in the first place. That is what I was doing until my plants became too big for the nets I had. After that, daily inspections for eggs have worked well too.

This is what moth eggs look like. Normally I find them on the exterior of the canopy but a few days ago I did come across a leaf covered like this in the center, bottom of one of my canopies.....damn crafty moth!

 
Where I live the Tobacco Budworm and Corn Earworm are the biggest pest threats to cannabis. If you have the Tobacco Budworm you doubt your nicotine brew will be very effective.
That is where I'm at. Just got to love the hot and humid. I really think I'm down to chopping and saving what I can. I have 2 other plants that have signs in tops. Need an extra drying rack or two. Just glad I've been expecting late bug issues. Sadly I don't know enough about better pest removal at this stage. Anything sprayed besides water is likely to leave a bad taste, and water is likely to further damage and rot. Very little rot currently.
 
I have decided to try Sierra Natural Science's DC Disease and Fungal Control. I do not want to keep using the copper fungicide because I do not want to create a copper toxicity. I was wondering if anyone knows if you can mix their 209 Pest Control and DC products in the same container and apply them together or do they need to be applied separately? @Sierra Natural Science
 
Can't help with the SNS product reaction since I have never used it. Copper I am familiar with. Toxicity comes from over ionizing the plant. Several factors can cause this. Copper toxicity is vary rare when used correctly.

Over dosing; Mixing the ratio too high or applying too often.

Acidity; Water below PH 6 will rapidly break the ions free flooding the leaf surface with a supper dose. This applies to your mix and any fallowing rain activating the copper residue on the leaves.

Surfactants; The natural "wax" coating covering a leaf, or pest, slows/prevents absorption. Fungus lack this protective coating. Surfactants break down this protective coating. Copper ions damage plant cells when they enter. Surfactants allow the copper ions to enter the leaf margins and stomata. Mixing the use of anti fungal and pest soap oils is a bad idea. Vary over simplified, general idea.
 
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