- Thread starter
- #261
SQl2kGuy
Well-Known Member
I'm thinking get just one light for the 2'x4' tent first ... and use my current lights in the 4'x4' tent.
420's Sherlock Holmes' FFOF Soil, Bakerstreet C.R.E.A.M. Cheese Autoflower, Grow Journal 2019
- Thread starter SQl2kGuy
- Start date
I'm thinking get just one light for the 2'x4' tent first ... and use my current lights in the 4'x4' tent.
- Thread starter
- #262
SQl2kGuy
Well-Known Member
I am trying to put a lot of my thoughts down to better hone my growing skills:
I had two quadlined Bakerstreet plants that I was forced to put into 10 gallon pots under a ScrOG in a 2'x4'x5' tent. It was a pain because the plants already had thick hard to manage stems. Then I did a heavy defoliation to see if I could get more secondary growth. They are doing well now and I am interested to see just how much they yield in the end.
If I had started ScrOGing earlier, I am sure my results would have been much better.
I am definitely looking forward to trying to ScrOG two more plants in 10 gallon pots in a 2'x4'x5' tent when the Bakerstreets are done. I also plan to get a proper 4' wide light for them to veg and bloom in. This will give proper light distribution and coverage.
In the 2'x4'x5' tent everything is easily accessible and I don't have to worry about moving the plants and disturbing the roots. Those 10 gallon pots can get get pretty heavy!
I am looking forward to easily keeping the canopy even by simply tucking in stems that grow, and I heard this is great for strains with these qualities:
A high flower-to-leaf ratio means more light exposure to nuggets as there is minimal shading by excessive leaf production. Minimal leaf production also means less need for time-consuming under-shucking. Tight flower clusters form at each node, rather than forming long colas, which creates an evenly exposed canopy of homogeneous buds. Lower flowers that might otherwise be small on an untrained plant are given the opportunity for maximum growth.
I had two quadlined Bakerstreet plants that I was forced to put into 10 gallon pots under a ScrOG in a 2'x4'x5' tent. It was a pain because the plants already had thick hard to manage stems. Then I did a heavy defoliation to see if I could get more secondary growth. They are doing well now and I am interested to see just how much they yield in the end.
If I had started ScrOGing earlier, I am sure my results would have been much better.
I am definitely looking forward to trying to ScrOG two more plants in 10 gallon pots in a 2'x4'x5' tent when the Bakerstreets are done. I also plan to get a proper 4' wide light for them to veg and bloom in. This will give proper light distribution and coverage.
In the 2'x4'x5' tent everything is easily accessible and I don't have to worry about moving the plants and disturbing the roots. Those 10 gallon pots can get get pretty heavy!
I am looking forward to easily keeping the canopy even by simply tucking in stems that grow, and I heard this is great for strains with these qualities:
A high flower-to-leaf ratio means more light exposure to nuggets as there is minimal shading by excessive leaf production. Minimal leaf production also means less need for time-consuming under-shucking. Tight flower clusters form at each node, rather than forming long colas, which creates an evenly exposed canopy of homogeneous buds. Lower flowers that might otherwise be small on an untrained plant are given the opportunity for maximum growth.
- Thread starter
- #263
SQl2kGuy
Well-Known Member
Hey there SQL, quick note regarding your flushing quandry...
I get where the confusion lies for a lot of people regarding the practice and following a few conversations here and elsewhere it appears a very hot topic.
For some, they believe flushing is somehow altering or minimizing any nutrient build up in the bud.
While i kinda get the disjointed logic, that still made little sense to me.
Even after runing through a number of websites 'help pages' it seemed to focus on flushing what was 'in' the plant.
With Emilyas words though, the penny fully dropped, it is simply about wellbeing for the plant. You are clearing the envirinment of obstacles allowing a potential increase in nutrient uptake after a flush. A notion that appears to be largely forgotten on almost ALL conversations about the practice everywhere.
Assume from your journal, you are going to follow a 'monthly' flush cycle give or take, but remember Emilya's words re: after the three times pots flush, a recharge of nutrients is only in order 'IF the plant isnt healthy'.
Not saying don't add nutes after flush but meant only as a gentle reminder, you could potentially introduce nutrient burn issues to the girls if they dont need them after the flush.
At least, that's how I understood it.
Btw, ask a few questions to start and work back is my suggestion on your light issue
E.g.
What is the flower footprint you want to cover?
Does that require one or more lights?
Do you want low power options?
Are diy kits a thing you may be happy with?
What colour light do you want?
Are you wanting uv/ir in the light?
Do you require longer warranty than a year?
What sort of budget bracket are you looking at for your lights?!
Etc
This should start reducing the pool to fewer models and then it'll be about personal choice.
Appreciate you mentioned your air filter is on 24/7 so heat isnt going to be an issue so a possible other direction is a hps bulb, certainly cheaper but comes with its own pros n cons...
Btw, I currently have 3 LEDs equating to 900 (true) watts in my 4x4 but not very happy with my set up at moment and was tempted by the sp250 unit from MH. (Think you stopped by the chat in MrKrips n JWicks threads)
Unfortunately it doesn't have features I need but for you, maybe @SmokeSara can hook you up because that one feature aside, they are cracking lights.
I am definitely putting a lot of thought into watering, feeding and flushing right now so I can fine tune my strategy.
- Thread starter
- #264
SQl2kGuy
Well-Known Member
The Different Feeds I need For This Grow (Version 5)
I am going to try to put together what I have learned into a feeding, watering and flushing strategy:
*** Canada Gringo Rasta Soil Feeding Schedule = CGRSFS
*** Advanced Nutrients - Root Mass Expanders = RME
*** Advanced Nutrients - Crop Substrate = CS
*** Advanced Nutrients - Bud Potency & Stalk Strenghtener = BPSS
*** Advanced Nutrients - Bud Taste & Terpene Enhancer = BTTE
*** Every Other Feed = EOF
*** Reviews on the Bakerstreet indicate it flowers in about 56 days to 63 days (8 weeks to 9 weeks).
*** Reviews on the C.R.E.A.M. & Cheese indicate it flowers in about 77 days (about 11 weeks).
*** My goal is to keep things simple and to include items which have worked for me so far.
1) In general, I will feed/water slowly using 6.3 pH to 6.8 pH tap water right up to run-off, ... then stop.
2) I will track feed/water pH and ppm as a matter of record.
3) I will do a regular feed(CGRSFS, RME)/feed(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE)/water cycle for all regular weeks.
4) I will do full-on bloom feeds(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE) for the last two weeks prior to harvest.
5) I will do a regular flush every 4 weeks (water-only at 3 times the pot size) to eliminate unwanted salts and debris on a watering day.
6) I will do a final bloom flush (water-only at 3 times the pot size) two weeks before harvest to eliminate unwanted salts and debris. I will then apply a full-on bloom nutrients feed because we are full-on feeding until harvest.
7) I will go full-on with bloom nutrients during the last two weeks of flower before harvest.
8) I will use best practices to slow-cure the buds to maximize THC, taste & smoothness.
August 05, 2019 - August 11, 2019
Bakerstreets: Full Dose - Week 7 - CGRSFS (RME EOF -- CS, BPSS, BTTE EOF)
C.R.E.A.M. & Cheese: Full Dose - Week 9 - CGRSFS (RME EOF -- CS, BPSS, BTTE EOF)
August 12, 2019 - August 18, 2019
Bakerstreets: Full Dose - Week 8 - CGRSFS (RME EOF -- CS, BPSS, BTTE EOF)
C.R.E.A.M. & Cheese: Full Dose - Week 10 - CGRSFS (RME EOF -- CS, BPSS, BTTE EOF)
August 19, 2019 - August 25, 2019
Bakerstreets: Full Dose - Week 9 - CGRSFS (RME EOF -- CS, BPSS, BTTE EOF)
C.R.E.A.M. & Cheese: Full Dose - Week 10 - CGRSFS (RME EOF -- CS, BPSS, BTTE EOF)
*** The C.R.E.A.M. & Cheese should be harvested by this point.
- Thread starter
- #265
SQl2kGuy
Well-Known Member
August 10 2019 - Update
Images: Bakerstreet #1 - Hanna Hemp - Looks healthy so far - growth nodes are exposed to light and air.
Bakerstreet #2 - Henna Hemp - Looks healthy so far - growth nodes are exposed to light and air.
C.R.E.A.M. #1 - Cowgirl Hemp - Looks healthy so far - buds are exposed to light and air.
Cheese #1 - Gouda Hemp - Looks healthy so far - buds are exposed to light and air.
Growth Stage:
2 Bakerstreets: Day 6/ Week 11 ... Day 76 ... week 3 flower.
*** They got their pistels on August 05, 2019.
*** They were transplanted July 20, 2019 and due for the 4 week flush/feed(CGRSFS, RME) on August 18, 2019.
*** They should be ready to harvest between September 16, 2019 and September 23, 2019.
*** Photoperiod Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 2-8 weeks veg, 6-12 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Allow 1 day to 3 days of dark before switching to 12-12
*** Pistels show up about 14 days (2 weeks) after switching to 12-12
1 C.R.E.A.M.: Day 6/ Week 10 ... Day 69 ... late flower.
1 Cheese: Day 6/ Week 10 ... Day 69 ... late flower.
*** They are due for the final flush on August 11, 2019 and then it's full-on bloom nutes!
*** They should be ready to harvest between August 25, 2019 and September 05, 2019.
*** I need to check the pistels and trichomes to verify the harvest date.
*** Autoflower Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 3 weeks veg, 3 weeks pre-flower, 3-6 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Pistels show up about 35 days (5 weeks) after Germination
*** Flowering takes about 42 days to 56 days (6 weeks to 8 weeks) after pistels show up
Environment #1 - Autoflower Veg/Flower:
*** The Inkbird IBS-TH1 I ordered got here today, so I will start tracking RH, canopy temperature and VPD again.
*** Environment # 1 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 2.
*** I am running the exhaust fan 24-0 to prevent a rise in RH and to prevent smells in the house.
*** The humidifier is set to 50% RH.
*** I may not need the Temperature Controller anymore.
*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)
CO2 is refreshed frequently when the exhaust fan turns on.
The light is running 4 cycles of "5 hours lights-on and 1 hours lights-off".
The light is 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over the 2 plants.
Environment #2 - Photoperiod Flower:
*** I will start tracking RH, canopy temperature and VPD again when Environment #1 is dialed-in again.
*** Environment # 2 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 1.
*** Environment # 2 does not have a humidifier.
*** I am running the exhaust fan 24-0 to prevent a rise in RH and to prevent smells in the house.
*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)
CO2 is refreshed frequently when the exhaust fan turns on.
The 2 lights are running 1 cycle of uninterrupted "12 hours lights-on and 12 hours lights-off".
Each light is 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over each plant.
Watering and Feeding:
Bakerstreets' Feed:
*** Next regular flush ... about 120 litres of water on August 18, 2019.
*** Next regular feed ... about 6 litres (1.6 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 7 - CGRSFS , CS, BPSS, BTTE on August 11, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.
C.R.E.A.M.'s Feed & Cheese's Feed:
*** Next final bloom flush ... about 60 litres water on August 11, 2019.
*** Next bloom feed ... about 4 litres (1.1 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 9 - CGRSFS , CS, BPSS, BTTE on August 11, 2019 .
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.
*** I will do a regular feed(CGRSFS, RME)/feed(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE)/water cycle for all regular weeks.
*** I will do full-on bloom feeds(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE) for the last two weeks prior to harvest.
*** For details on my feeding schedule refer to here: The Different Feeds I need For This Grow (Version 5)
Activities:
My priority is to expose the growth nodes to light and air because they are going to become colas.
Refilled the humidifier with water.
*** Trying to get the Bakerstreets' growth nodes placed evenly in the ScrOG squares.
Notes:
The priority has to be to expose the growth nodes/buds to light & air, and to keep the canopy even and flat.
*** I am going to let the plants grow naturally now and stop tucking the stems into the ScrOG. For details on this decision, please refer here: How long to Veg Photoperiods? - Version 2
*** I am monitoring the heavy defoliation on the Bakerstreets and hoping it will lead to more node growth and more yield. So far, so good. They are getting some height and some secondary bud growth.
*** I checked the LUX and adjusted the light canopy height in Environment # 1 and Environment # 2. I am looking closely for light burn. So far so good, they are just sucking up the light!
*** I added a second light to Environment # 2, and the Bakerstreet budlets love it!
*** The lights I have are not very powerful, but they sit well side-by-side in a 2'x4' tent.
Lessons Learned:
What To Do When Your Homegrown Cannabis Won’t Flower
by RoyalQueenSeeds
Everybody loves big cannabis plants, but sometimes they can get too tall. This is bad news in a restricted space or for the stealth outdoor grower. Find out how to control your overeager marijuana plants with this informative blog from Royal Queen Seeds.
WHEN CANNABIS GROWS TOO TALL
When marijuana is exposed to prime growing conditions, it should fulfill its genetic potential. Sometimes, this means your plants will grow too tall. This can easily happen with sativas that stretch substantially or Kush varieties that tend to have generous distances between nodes. Some species of cannabis stretch notoriously when they enter the flowering phase, even doubling their vegetative height in some cases. Although the whole idea is to get the largest of plants with the heaviest yields of mature flowers possible, depending on the situation, plants that are too tall can be inconvenient.
Often, space is limited indoors and plants that are too tall can exceed the height of the grow space. If the grow room is a multi-strain grow, raising the lights to suit the taller plants can deprive shorter plants of sufficient lighting. Outdoors, especially in stealth grows, plants that are too tall can attract unwanted attention. Controlling the height of your marijuana plants is not very difficult and can be done in a number of ways. Here are a few techniques that can keep the height of your marijuana under control.
THINK AHEAD
If you are well aware that the strain you are growing is going to be tall, then height control starts in the early vegetative phase. Alternatively, the size of your grow space may require height control no matter the strain. Topping or fimming when plants are young encourages a shorter, but bushier plant. Grow room space still needs to be considered, however, as you are exchanging height for floor area.
Air circulation is a priority when plants become bushier in tight quarters. Controlling the height of your crop, only to suffer from mould or fungus due to lack of circulation is definitely a no-no. Lollipopping your plants will guarantee good air circulation below the canopy, preventing pathogens from taking hold. This also has the added bonus of chunkier and weightier colas come harvest, with less unwanted popcorn buds.
TRAINING
LST or low stress training is the art of gently tying the branches of your plants to grow more horizontally. Either the main stem is tied down, encouraging the side branches to be dominant, after which the side branches are also tied down; or the plants are topped a number of times and the new growth is tied down in the mainlining style. LST and mainlining have the benefit of exposing more of the plant to light, therefore encouraging weightier flowers all over.
What’s great about these techniques is an even canopy instead of one main cola. The extreme of this style is ScrOGging, in which the whole plant is encouraged to grow horizontally. A screen of netting is used to hold down all new growth until the plants form a mat. Appropriately called “screen of green,” one or two plants may fill an entire grow space.
PRE-FLOWER TOPPING
Letting your plants grow untouched during the vegetative phase, then topping just prior to flowering also controls height. When your plants are about to enter the flowering stage, top all branches. This has the effect of reining in the flower stretch. The plants are urged to produce new flower growth instead of focussing energy on stretching out.
Occasionally, pre-flower topping needs to be a full pre-flower pruning. If your plants fill the grow space during the vegetative phase, there is no way there will be enough room for flowering. It is time to get drastic. Aggressively prune the plants to half their size and switch lights to the 12/12 flower cycle. Don’t worry, cannabis is very hardy and can even recover from being reduced to a stalk with only one or two leaves remaining. Try not to beat yourself up about the loss of time and reduced final yields. All lessons are good lessons on the way to becoming a weed growing expert.
HUMIDITY
Cannabis plants transpire a substantial amount of water. Marijuana prefers a relative humidity (RH) of 50-65%. When they get too big, humidity can become a problem as the plants constantly release water vapor into the air. Water then gathers on leaves and other surfaces in the grow room, potentially causing mould and other issues. If humidity is becoming a problem, the use of a dehumidifier or increasing exhaust fan power can help. Defoliating can also increase airflow to control humidity. Remove lower and mid-level fan leaves only. This has the added benefit of increasing light penetration to the lower flowering branches.
TEMPERATURE
As with humidity, when plants get too big, temperature in the grow-op can rise. Reduced airflow and excessive height can drive up temperature and position plants too close to grow lights. Cannabis thrives when the temperature averages 25°C. When temps exceed this, plants are more likely to stretch. High temperatures can also affect leaf and flower formations, as well as final bud flavours and potency.
LIGHT INTENSITY
If your plants are getting too tall or too hot and you have the room, simply raise the grow lights as high as possible. Remember, lights that are too far from the tops of your plants can also cause stretching, so make sure to achieve the ideal light positioning.
Light intensity can be adjusted as a method for controlling growth speed and height. Some grow lights have adjustable outputs. If your plants are getting unruly, reduce the intensity. If you are using more than one lamp, simply turn some off.
During the flowering phase, growth can be controlled by reducing the photoperiod - but only if your plants have been flowering for at least six weeks. Reducing leaf production and stem stretching can be achieved by reducing the “lights-on” period from 12 hours to 11 or 10 hours.
CHOOSE WISELY
Appropriate strain choice can help avoid height issues before they even arise. If you have limited space, your dreams of cultivating a classic sativa will need to remain just that, dreams. Stout indicas and hybrids or autoflowering genetics can keep heights under control. Many autoflowering strains are ideal for indoor growing as they have relatively no vegetative period. Some strains will not grow taller than 50cm, but will still provide excellent yields per m².
DON’T WORRY, BE HAPPY
With a little bit of consideration and forethought, height need not be an issue when growing marijuana. Some research into strain characteristics is the first, very important step. Then, appropriate growing techniques will make sure you get lots of yummy buds with no drama. Happy growing!
ToDo:
Learn more about ... The Different Types of Lights for Cannabis: Pros and Cons.
Learn more about pests and nutrient deficiencies.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Thank you! 
Mars Hydro
420 Sponsor
Yes, one of the SP 250 covers 3x6 during veg and 2x4 during flower.
- Thread starter
- #268
SQl2kGuy
Well-Known Member
Yes, one of the SP 250 covers 3x6 during veg and 2x4 during flower.
Thanks @SmokeSara ... I have narrowed it down to the SP 250 and the Dimmable TSW 2000W.
I will likely go with the new more efficient Dimmable TSW 2000W for the 4'x4' tent and use the old inneficient X6's in the 12-12 flowering 2'x4' tent.
I typically like to order from Amazon because I like their quick trackable delivery system.
- Thread starter
- #269
SQl2kGuy
Well-Known Member
August 11 2019 - Update
Images: Bakerstreet #1 - Hanna Hemp - Looks healthy so far - growth nodes are exposed to light and air.
Bakerstreet #2 - Henna Hemp - Looks healthy so far - growth nodes are exposed to light and air.
C.R.E.A.M. #1 - Cowgirl Hemp - Looks healthy so far - buds are exposed to light and air.
Cheese #1 - Gouda Hemp - Looks healthy so far - buds are exposed to light and air.
Growth Stage:
2 Bakerstreets: Day 7/ Week 11 ... Day 77 ... week 3 flower.
*** They got their pistels on August 05, 2019.
*** They were transplanted July 20, 2019 and due for the 4 week flush/feed(CGRSFS, RME) on August 18, 2019.
*** They should be ready to harvest between September 16, 2019 and September 23, 2019.
*** Photoperiod Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 2-8 weeks veg, 6-12 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Allow 1 day to 3 days of dark before switching to 12-12
*** Pistels show up about 14 days (2 weeks) after switching to 12-12
1 C.R.E.A.M.: Day 7/ Week 10 ... Day 70 ... late flower.
1 Cheese: Day 7/ Week 10 ... Day 70 ... late flower.
*** They are due for the final flush on August 18, 2019 and then it's full-on bloom nutes!
*** I am looking at the pistels on the buds, and they are not ready for the final flush yet.
*** They should be ready to harvest between August 25, 2019 and September 05, 2019.
*** I need to check the pistels and trichomes to verify the harvest date.
*** Autoflower Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 3 weeks veg, 3 weeks pre-flower, 3-6 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Pistels show up about 35 days (5 weeks) after Germination
*** Flowering takes about 42 days to 56 days (6 weeks to 8 weeks) after pistels show up
Environment #1 - Autoflower Veg/Flower:
*** The Inkbird IBS-TH1 I ordered got here today, so I will start tracking RH, canopy temperature and VPD again.
*** Environment # 1 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 2.
*** I am running the exhaust fan 24-0 to prevent a rise in RH and to prevent smells in the house.
*** The humidifier is set to 50% RH.
*** I may not need the Temperature Controller anymore.
*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)
CO2 is refreshed frequently when the exhaust fan turns on.
The light is running 4 cycles of "5 hours lights-on and 1 hours lights-off".
The light is 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over the 2 plants.
Environment #2 - Photoperiod Flower:
*** I will start tracking RH, canopy temperature and VPD again when Environment #1 is dialed-in again.
*** Environment # 2 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 1.
*** Environment # 2 does not have a humidifier.
*** I am running the exhaust fan 24-0 to prevent a rise in RH and to prevent smells in the house.
*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)
CO2 is refreshed frequently when the exhaust fan turns on.
The 2 lights are running 1 cycle of uninterrupted "12 hours lights-on and 12 hours lights-off".
Each light is 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over each plant.
Watering and Feeding:
Bakerstreets' Feed:
pH: 6.53
ppm: 52
Soil feed - 6.0 litres (1.6 gallons) each.
I used tap water only.
*** Soil watering and feeding is done 1 hour after the lights turn off ... so the leaves have cooled and the stomata are open to accept water and nutrients.
*** Next regular flush ... about 120 litres of water on August 18, 2019.
*** Next regular feed ... about 6 litres (1.6 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 8 - CGRSFS , RME around August 14, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.
C.R.E.A.M.'s Feed & Cheese's Feed:
pH: 6.53
ppm: 52
Soil feed - 4.0 litres (1.0 gallon) each.
I used tap water only.
*** Next final bloom flush ... about 60 litres water on August 18, 2019.
*** Next bloom feed ... about 4 litres (1.1 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 10 - CGRSFS , RME on August 14, 2019 .
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.
*** I will do a regular feed(CGRSFS, RME)/feed(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE)/water cycle for all regular weeks.
*** I will do full-on bloom feeds(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE) for the last two weeks prior to harvest.
*** For details on my feeding schedule refer to here: The Different Feeds I need For This Grow (Version 5)
Activities:
My priority is to expose the growth nodes to light and air because they are going to become colas.
Refilled the humidifier with water.
*** Trying to get the Bakerstreets' growth nodes placed evenly in the ScrOG squares.
Notes:
The priority has to be to expose the growth nodes/buds to light & air, and to keep the canopy even and flat.
*** I am going to let the plants grow naturally now and stop tucking the stems into the ScrOG. For details on this decision, please refer here: How long to Veg Photoperiods? - Version 2
*** I am monitoring the heavy defoliation on the Bakerstreets and hoping it will lead to more node growth and more yield. So far, so good. They are getting some height and some secondary bud growth.
*** I checked the LUX and adjusted the light canopy height in Environment # 1 and Environment # 2. I am looking closely for light burn. So far so good, they are just sucking up the light!
*** I added a second light to Environment # 1, and the C.R.E.A.M. & Cheese buds love it!
*** The X6 lights I have are not very powerful, but they sit well side-by-side in a 2'x4' tent or a 3'x3' tent.
Lessons Learned:
The Different Types of Lights for Cannabis: Pros and Cons
by RoyalQueenSeeds
The variety of grow lights available today can be confusing, especially for those new to cannabis cultivation. We look at the different types of lighting along with their pros and cons.
Cannabis cultivators know how important light is when it comes to growing successfully. A sufficient amount of the right type of light is one of the most crucial factors for healthy growth and yields of potent buds.
Although natural sunlight would be optimal for cannabis growing, many cultivators prefer to grow indoors, for various reasons. Firstly, not everyone lives in a climate where outdoor growing is feasible. Secondly, indoor growing with artificial lighting on a timer allows the grower control over the vegetative and flowering phases of their cannabis.
You can find various types of grow lights for indoor cultivation today. However, not all types of grow lighting are equal. There can be big differences when it comes to their effectiveness and costs. Let’s look at the available grow lighting types together with their pros and cons.
FLUORESCENT (CFL) GROW LIGHTS
CFL stands for “Compact Fluorescent Lights”. You can get these lights at many places, including home improvement stores and even most grocery stores. They are especially suited to small grows and make affordable starter lights.
Pros:
Their availability and low cost are among the advantages of CFL grow lights. These bulbs have standard sockets so you can use them with any standard light fixture. Commonly used CFLs for growing cannabis range from 40W and upwards. They are available in various colour temperatures such as “daylight” at 6500K or “warm white” with a more reddish light spectrum at 2700K. Bulbs with a “daylight” spectrum are more suitable for the vegetative growth phase while “warmer” CFLs with their more reddish light are better for the flowering of your plants.
Cons:
The light output of CFL bulbs is low compared to other types of grow lighting. You will have to put the CFL bulbs very close to your plants if you want to provide them sufficient light. Unless you are willing to use a number of CFL bulbs, CFLs are normally better suited for smaller grows, say if you only grow one or two plants. On the other hand, “day light” CFL grow lights can be the ideal grow lights for clones and seedlings.
CFLs are not very efficient or powerful compared to other lighting options, but for who are only just dipping their toe into the water of cannabis cultivation, they are a great starting point.
HID GROW LIGHTS (MH & HPS)
HID (High-intensity Discharge) grow lights are somewhat of a golden standard in the cannabis growing industry. Many growers swear by HID lighting and believe that they give the best and biggest yields.
There are two main types of HID lights, MH (Metal Halide) lights and HPS (High Pressure Sodium) lights. The difference between the two is that MH lights give a “cooler”, blueish light whereas HPS lights sit at the red end of the spectrum. This makes MH lights better suitable for the vegetative phase of your plants and HPS better for flowering.
Most advanced growers, therefore, use a combination of MH/HPS bulbs for the duration of their grow. If for some reason you need to choose one type of HID for the entire grow you should get an HPS light.
600W HPS lights are the most popular form of HID lights because they provide a good balance between how much light they produce and how much electricity they use.
Growers that want to grow using HID lighting can usually get complete sets that include the bulbs, ballast and a reflector.
Pros:
HID lights will initially cost a lot less when compared to some other types of grow lights. They are easy to set up and to operate, and they are proven a proven standardised solution able to get excellent results.
Cons:
Powerful HID lights in the 600W range or more can produce big amounts of heat. This means you will need adequate exhausts and vents in your grow room. Also, because HID bulbs degrade over time, their life span is somewhat limited. You will have to replace your bulbs periodically. Some growers get new bulbs every year while others grow with them a little longer.
HID lights cannot just plugged-in to a regular light socket because they need a special hood and ballast. As such, they are extremely power hungry, and can significantly increase electricity bills.
Just a few years ago, LEDs were not suitable for any “serious” grows aside for providing light for seedlings or clones. However, LED technology has come a long way in recent years.
Modern LED grow lights with more lumens per watt and modern COBs (“Chips on Board”) technology can now provide adequate light intensity and penetration for even the most demanding grows. Today, LEDs can rival or even surpass other types of grow lighting including HID lights - though you need to get the right ones.
Pros:
LEDs are the most energy-efficient type of grow light. This means they can provide the most light compared to their running costs. Another advantage of LED lights is that they run much cooler compared to HID lighting - barely producing any heat at all. This, in turn, means there is less risk of “burning” your plants from too much heat plus it helps to keep temperatures in your grow room down. LEDs also don’t need a ballast to work like HIDs do, you can simply plug them into a standard outlet.
Cons:
When compared to other types of lighting, the initial costs for LED grow lights can be steep. High-end grow LED fixtures with modern LED modules can easily set you back thousands of Euros. On the other hand, if you plan to grow a lot, the lower running costs of LEDs, and lower temperatures can make good for your initial investment over time.
So, what type of grow lighting is best? This is a decision that will depend on various factors, including the size of your growing area, the light’s running costs over time and last but not least how much you can or are willing to spend.
If you have very high light requirements, such as if you want to max out your yields during flowering you will not get around needing a powerful light such as a 600W or better HID light or LED equivalent. On the other hand, if you only want to grow one or two small plants, or are looking after clones and seedlings, a less powerful light will do.
ToDo:
Learn more about ... Cannabis Cultivation Tips: How To Set Up Indoor Grow Lights.
Learn more about pests and nutrient deficiencies.
WankirA
Well-Known Member
That Cheese is looking like a beast SQ' really hope you have a monster there..
All very healthy looking.
Nice work on the light research too - it sums up everything a new grower could use to make informed decision.
Great stuff.
All very healthy looking.
Nice work on the light research too - it sums up everything a new grower could use to make informed decision.
Great stuff.
Mars Hydro
420 Sponsor
Hi SQl2kGuy, as long as you order from Mars Hydro, I am happy.
and I hope you will be happy with our lights. 
- Thread starter
- #272
SQl2kGuy
Well-Known Member
That Cheese is looking like a beast SQ' really hope you have a monster there..
All very healthy looking.
Nice work on the light research too - it sums up everything a new grower could use to make informed decision.
Great stuff.
Thanks for for popping in to help me cheer!
I actually fed for the first time using tap water only troday. Never before have I just given water ... it has always been some kind of nutrient mixture!
I was worried I was going to starve them ... but it is part of my new feeding strategy based on the senior growers here, so ... learn and apply for better results!
As for the light research ... I went with a medium-level light that has a few options and half decent power/coverage and efficiency.
I am really looking forward to getting it into the tent this Thursday ... my plants have suffered enough from light deprivation!
Alright ... ttyl
- Thread starter
- #273
SQl2kGuy
Well-Known Member
Hi SQl2kGuy, as long as you order from Mars Hydro, I am happy.
I am pretty sure I will be happy with the light ... and I will ping you on August 15, 2019 when I get it installed!
If I see other posts for people needing lights, ... I will help guide our readers to Mars Hydro!
ttyl
- Thread starter
- #274
SQl2kGuy
Well-Known Member
August 12 2019 - Update
Images:
Bakerstreet #1 - Hanna Hemp - Looks healthy so far - budlets are exposed to light and air.
Bakerstreet #2 - Henna Hemp - Looks healthy so far - budlets are exposed to light and air.
C.R.E.A.M. #1 - Cowgirl Hemp - Looks healthy so far - buds are exposed to light and air.
C.R.E.A.M. #1 - Cowgirl Hemp - Buds are not ready yet - based on pistels.
Cheese #1 - Gouda Hemp - Looks healthy so far - buds are exposed to light and air.
Cheese #1 - Gouda Hemp - Buds are not ready yet - based on pistels.
*** I need to practice taking better pictures.
Growth Stage:
2 Bakerstreets: Day 1/ Week 12 ... Day 78 ... week 4 flower.
*** They got their pistels on August 05, 2019.
*** They were transplanted July 20, 2019 and due for the 4 week flush/feed(CGRSFS, RME) on August 18, 2019.
*** They should be ready to harvest between September 16, 2019 and September 23, 2019.
*** Photoperiod Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 2-8 weeks veg, 6-12 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Allow 1 day to 3 days of dark before switching to 12-12
*** Pistels show up about 14 days (2 weeks) after switching to 12-12
1 C.R.E.A.M.: Day 1/ Week 11 ... Day 71 ... late flower.
1 Cheese: Day 1/ Week 11 ... Day 71 ... late flower.
*** They are due for the final flush on August 18, 2019 and then it's full-on bloom nutes!
*** I am looking at the pistels on the buds, and they are not ready for the final flush yet.
*** They should be ready to harvest between August 25, 2019 and September 05, 2019.
*** I need to check the pistels and trichomes to verify the harvest date.
*** Autoflower Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 3 weeks veg, 3 weeks pre-flower, 3-6 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Pistels show up about 35 days (5 weeks) after Germination
*** Flowering takes about 42 days to 56 days (6 weeks to 8 weeks) after pistels show up
Environment #1 - Autoflower Veg/Flower:
*** The Inkbird IBS-TH1 I ordered got here, so I will start tracking RH, canopy temperature and VPD again.
*** Environment # 1 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 2.
*** I am running the exhaust fan 24-0 to prevent a rise in RH and to prevent smells in the house.
*** The humidifier is set to 50% RH.
*** I may not need the Temperature Controller anymore.
*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)
CO2 is refreshed frequently when the exhaust fan turns on.
The light is running 4 cycles of "5 hours lights-on and 1 hours lights-off".
The light is 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over the 2 plants.
Environment #2 - Photoperiod Flower:
*** I will start tracking RH, canopy temperature and VPD again when Environment #1 is dialed-in again.
*** Environment # 2 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 1.
*** Environment # 2 does not have a humidifier.
*** I am running the exhaust fan 24-0 to prevent a rise in RH and to prevent smells in the house.
*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)
CO2 is refreshed frequently when the exhaust fan turns on.
The 2 lights are running 1 cycle of uninterrupted "12 hours lights-on and 12 hours lights-off".
Each light is 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over each plant.
Watering and Feeding:
Bakerstreets' Feed:
*** Next regular flush ... about 120 litres of water around August 18, 2019 on a watering day.
*** Next regular feed ... about 6 litres (1.6 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 8 - CGRSFS , RME around August 14, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.
C.R.E.A.M.'s Feed & Cheese's Feed:
*** Next final bloom flush ... about 60 litres water on August 18, 2019.
*** Next bloom feed ... about 4 litres (1.1 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 10 - CGRSFS , RME on August 14, 2019 .
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.
*** I will do a regular feed(CGRSFS, RME)/feed(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE)/water cycle for all regular weeks.
*** I will do full-on bloom feeds(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE) for the last two weeks prior to harvest.
*** For details on my feeding schedule refer to here: The Different Feeds I need For This Grow (Version 5)
Activities:
My priority is to expose the growth nodes to light and air because they are going to become colas.
Refilled the humidifier with water.
*** Trying to get the Bakerstreets' growth nodes placed evenly in the ScrOG squares.
Notes:
The priority has to be to expose the growth nodes/buds to light & air, and to keep the canopy even and flat.
*** I am going to let the plants grow naturally now and stop tucking the stems into the ScrOG. For details on this decision, please refer here: How long to Veg Photoperiods? - Version 2
*** I am monitoring the heavy defoliation on the Bakerstreets and hoping it will lead to more node growth and more yield. So far, so good. They are getting some height and some secondary bud growth.
*** I checked the LUX and adjusted the light canopy height in Environment # 1 and Environment # 2. I am looking closely for light burn. So far so good, they are just sucking up the light!
*** I added a second light to Environment # 1, and the C.R.E.A.M. & Cheese buds love it!
*** The X6 lights I have are not very powerful, but they sit well side-by-side in a 2'x4' tent or a 3'x3' tent.
*** I ordered a new MARS HYDRO Dimmable TSL 2000W LED Grow Lights with IR Sunlight Spectrum to go into the 3'x3' veg tent.
I will move one of the more inefficient X6 lights into the 2'x4' tent.
Lessons Learned:
Cannabis Cultivation Tips: How To Set Up Indoor Grow Lights
by RoyalQueenSeeds
Lighting is a critical factor of cannabis cultivation. For the indoor grower, artificial light poses many challenges. In this blog, we’ll help you position the right grow lamps the correct distance from the canopy, without cooking your marijuana with high temps.
THE 3 MOST COMMON TYPES OF MODERN GROW LIGHTS
Contemporary indoor cannabis cultivation usually involves at least one of three artificial light sources: HID, CFL, and LED. Frequently, growers use a combination of grow lamps. Of course, there are other, more antiquated lighting technologies, but they are all pretty much “Betamax” lamps. This blog will focus on the most common lighting used by the 21st-century cannabis cultivator. We are going heavy on the practical grow room advice without relying on the pseudo-scientific stats.
HID or high-intensity discharge lamps have been the grow lights of choice for every kind of indoor grower from beginners to pro cultivators since the early 1990’s at least. Over the years, lamps have become more efficient, ballasts have gone digital, and reflectors have gotten bigger and better. Growers that favour HID are big believers that lumens are the only output statistic that matters when it comes to lights.
Sure, CMH or ceramic metal-halide has come on the scene and the 315W CMH bulb is impressive, but a rather expensive upgrade for a standard MH or metal-halide lamp. Moreover, 315W CMH is not quite as high performance as a high-end dual spectrum/agro 600W HPS or high pressure sodium lamp. Similarly, CFL shows some promise, but always runs a distant second to the tried and trusted HID.
LED or light-emitting diode is the up-and-coming breakaway technology that looks to end the reign of HID for cannabis cultivation. The latest generation of LED systems are now capable of producing comparable, and in some cases, superior quality marijuana than the average HID set-up. PAR or photosynthetically active radiation is the metric that LED zealots consider most important.
It’s best not to get too obsessed about the various new measures of light and modified light spectrums. Keep it simple. Think of light in terms of watts and electricity bills. Next is the question, “How much power consumption?” Followed by, “How much heat will the lamp produce and how much light will it emit?”
OLD SCHOOL HID
In ordinary decent stoner terms, HID has gotten some new bells and whistles, but the core principles of cultivating cannabis with this kind of artificial light remain the same. MH for vegetative growth and HPS for flowering. Although, the dual spectrum HPS lamps are a popular alternative and probably even better for autoflowering strains.
400W and 600W bulbs are the most suitable for indoor cannabis cultivation. Lights need to be hung level. The optimal light height or OLH is between 30-50cm above the plant canopy. This means carefully fastening the reflector to the ceiling or roof of the grow tent with either easy roll hangers or rope ratchets.
It’s best to use fixtures that can be easily adjusted and repositioned as the plants mature and grow taller. However, seedlings and cuttings may find a 600W MH too intense and a 60cm+ distance overhead might be more appropriate.
Don’t mess with light rails unless you’ve got the engineering credentials. Stationary lights that don’t wobble with a level, horizontal bulb housed in a clean, open reflector is professional, standard cultivation. Ideally, use a large reflector, or as big as will squeeze into the grow space, with a wide spread to utilise the entire area.
Glass filters, light, and air-cooling lamps are expensive. Therefore, cool tubes are really only suitable for closet grows as they have some of the worst reflective properties of any reflector on the market. Adding more lights and more fans means higher power bills.
LIGHTING AND GROW SPACE
Generally, 400-600W per m² is plenty of light for a home grow show. Commercial growers may push this to 1000W+ for maximum yield. Packing as many lamps as possible into the grow-op is not a fast track to a heavy harvest. More HID lamps means more light, but also a lot more heat. These babies run hot. 250W lamps are for micro-growers only.
The addition of just one extra 600W HPS can massively increase grow-op temps. It’s often a less costly and more effective solution to invest in upgrading the grow room instead. Maybe cover the walls in Mylar or upgrade from a magnetic ballast to a dimmable, digital ballast, or go all the way to LED.
HOW MANY PLANTS?
The answer is as many or as few as the grower prefers. You can pack 16 cannabis plants in 11l square containers into a 1m² grow space in a SOG. Alternatively, a grower can fill the same space with one large plant using the ScrOG method. Either way, the yield will be comparable. Again, it's all about how you make use of the light and the grow area.
SUPPLEMENTING WITH CFL
CFL or compact fluorescent light is really effective in the cool white spectrum as an alternative to an MH bulb. A 250W CFL can deliver comparable results to a 400W MH lamp. This is achieved by hanging the CFL as close as 10cm above the plant canopy. CFL runs cool and can get really close to plants without burning foliage. Plus, CFL lights will only marginally increase grow-op temps. This makes CFL perfect for seedlings, cuttings, and for use during vegetative growth. CFL lights are sometimes the only option for micro-growers.
Unfortunately, CFL boasts neither impressive lumen nor PAR output figures. Worse, CFL lights are not very effective for flowering marijuana. Cannabis plants need far more intense illumination during bloom than CFL can supply. Expect lightweight yields and loose buds from CFL lights in the flowering phase.
The latest LED systems have finally achieved parity with traditional HID lighting systems. At present, the situation is similar to when flat screen televisions first became available at the turn of the century. The benefits and advantages were plain for all to see. However, the limiting factor was prohibitively high prices by the leading manufacturers.
High-performance LED kits that draw 350-400W and can outperform a 600W MH and HPS configuration with a full spectrum array don’t come cheap. There are some models that really can do it all. The very best systems can run cool and are incredibly economic in the long-term. Hanging distances vary widely, so buyer beware and make sure to check the manufacturer’s instructions.
LED technology is rumoured to have been reverse engineered from the 1947 Roswell UFO crash, so nobody really understands the tech 100%. We might be growing cannabis with the headlamps from an alien craft. One thing is for certain, as soon as the price drops, LED lights are sure to replace all other artificial lights used for cannabis cultivation. 21st century LED tech allows the grower to pack in more light with less heat and far fewer watts. That’s a game-changer.
ToDo:
Learn more about ... Make the Most of Your LEDs: 5 Tips for Cannabis LED Growing.
Learn more about pests and nutrient deficiencies.
Mars Hydro
420 Sponsor
oopssteptinit
Well-Known Member
Looking great SQL, your getting closer to harvest by the day. Good luck with the new light, looks like you did a lot of research in to that as well. Lol, I sneak over here incognito sometimes and read your researches. Grow, brother grow.
- Thread starter
- #277
SQl2kGuy
Well-Known Member
Hi @oopssteptinit ... how are things?
I looked at the plant for the first time today with the microscope ... I have a handheld one and it was bit hard to focus in on the trichomes and the pistels ... so I'll need to look up some tricks on how to do this. I'm pretty sure I can find something to use with my phone too so I can take some good pictures.
I decided it was best to flush the two autoflowers, go full-in bloom nutes, and to open them up to the light and air so they can bloom better. It was more work than I thought ... and it took me about four hours.
lol ... I also like to review the lessons learned section ... there's so much cool stuff to learn everyday about growing!
ttyl
oopssteptinit
Well-Known Member
Hiya SQl, things are looking good there, as always. Going good on this end, in the drying stage now... I used a microscope, but it sure was hard to keep my hands from shaking, finally pulled a sample of sugar leaves from two or three spots on the girls, laid them on a white piece of paper and set my mini microscope right on it... was able to see the trichs clearly, but when I tried to take a picture with my old camera, it came out in circles... but it was fun trying.
- Thread starter
- #279
SQl2kGuy
Well-Known Member
August 13 2019 - Update
Images:
Bakerstreet #1 - Hanna Hemp - Looks healthy so far - budlets are exposed to light and air.
Bakerstreet #2 - Henna Hemp - Looks healthy so far - budlets are exposed to light and air.
C.R.E.A.M. #1 - Cowgirl Hemp - Looks healthy so far - buds are exposed to light and air.
Cheese #1 - Gouda Hemp - Looks healthy so far - buds are exposed to light and air.
*** I need to practice taking better pictures.
Growth Stage:
2 Bakerstreets: Day 2/ Week 12 ... Day 79 ... week 4 flower.
*** They got their pistels on August 05, 2019.
*** They were transplanted July 20, 2019 and due for the 4 week flush/feed(CGRSFS, RME) on August 18, 2019.
*** They should be ready to harvest between September 16, 2019 and September 23, 2019.
*** Photoperiod Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 2-8 weeks veg, 6-12 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Allow 1 day to 3 days of dark before switching to 12-12
*** Pistels show up about 14 days (2 weeks) after switching to 12-12
1 C.R.E.A.M.: Day 2/ Week 11 ... Day 72 ... late flower.
1 Cheese: Day 2/ Week 11 ... Day 72 ... late flower.
*** I did the final flush today ... August 13, 2019 ... and now it's full-on bloom nutes!
*** They should be ready to harvest between August 18, 2019 and August 25, 2019.
*** I need to check the pistels and trichomes to verify the harvest date.
*** Autoflower Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 3 weeks veg, 3 weeks pre-flower, 3-6 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Pistels show up about 35 days (5 weeks) after Germination
*** Flowering takes about 42 days to 56 days (6 weeks to 8 weeks) after pistels show up
Environment #1 - Autoflower Veg/Flower:
*** The Inkbird IBS-TH1 I ordered got here, so I will start tracking RH, canopy temperature and VPD again.
*** Environment # 1 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 2.
*** I am running the exhaust fan 24-0 to prevent a rise in RH and to prevent smells in the house.
*** The humidifier is set to 50% RH.
*** I may not need the Temperature Controller anymore.
*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)
CO2 is refreshed frequently when the exhaust fan turns on.
The light is running 4 cycles of "5 hours lights-on and 1 hours lights-off".
The light is 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over the 2 plants.
Environment #2 - Photoperiod Flower:
*** I will start tracking RH, canopy temperature and VPD again when Environment #1 is dialed-in again.
*** Environment # 2 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 1.
*** Environment # 2 does not have a humidifier.
*** I am running the exhaust fan 24-0 to prevent a rise in RH and to prevent smells in the house.
*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)
CO2 is refreshed frequently when the exhaust fan turns on.
The 2 lights are running 1 cycle of uninterrupted "12 hours lights-on and 12 hours lights-off".
Each light is 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over each plant.
Watering and Feeding:
Bakerstreets' Feed:
*** Next regular flush ... about 120 litres of water around August 18, 2019 on a watering day.
*** Next regular feed ... about 6 litres (1.6 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 8 - CGRSFS , RME around August 14, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.
C.R.E.A.M.'s Final Bloom Flush:
pH: 6.68
ppm: 401
60 litres (15.8 gallons) of tap water.
C.R.E.A.M.'s Final Bloom Flush Run-Off:
pH: 6.45
ppm: 477
4 litres (1.0 gallon) .
C.R.E.A.M.'s Bloom Feed:
pH: 6.78
ppm: 1312
6 litres (1.6 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 10 - CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE.
C.R.E.A.M.'s Bloom Feed Run-Off:
pH: 6.28
ppm: 613
4 litres (1.0 gallon) .
Cheese's Final Bloom Flush:
pH: 6.46
ppm: 403
60 litres (15.8 gallons) of tap water.
Cheese's Final Bloom Flush Run-Off:
pH: 6.28
ppm: 507
4 litres (1.0 gallon) .
Cheese's Bloom Feed:
pH: 6.78
ppm: 1312
6 litres (1.6 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 10 - CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE.
Cheese's Bloom Feed Run-Off:
pH: 6.15
ppm: 715
4 litres (1.0 gallon) .
C.R.E.A.M.'s Bloom Feed & Cheese's Bloom Feed:
*** Next bloom feed ... about 4 litres (1.1 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 10 - CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE on August 16, 2019 .
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.
*** I will do a regular feed(CGRSFS, RME)/feed(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE)/water cycle for all regular weeks.
*** I will do full-on bloom feeds(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE) for the last two weeks prior to harvest.
*** For details on my feeding schedule refer to here: The Different Feeds I need For This Grow (Version 5)
Activities:
My priority is to expose the growth nodes to light and air because they are going to become colas.
Refilled the humidifier with water.
*** Trying to get the Bakerstreets' growth nodes placed evenly in the ScrOG squares.
*** I took the cage off the C.R.E.A.M. & Cheese and moved them further apart.
Notes:
The priority has to be to expose the growth nodes/buds to light & air, and to keep the canopy even and flat.
*** I am going to let the plants grow naturally now and stop tucking the stems into the ScrOG. For details on this decision, please refer here: How long to Veg Photoperiods? - Version 2
*** The Bakerstreets got a bit more secondary node growth but nowhere near what I expected. They are now getting some height on their budlets.
*** I keep moving the one X6 light over each Bakerstreet plant to try and even out their growth. I am looking forward to the new light getting here on August 15, 2019.
*** I took the cage off the C.R.E.A.M. & Cheese and moved them further apart.
*** They were squished up in the back and not getting as much light and air as they deserved.
*** They are now about 61.0 cm 24" wide and they are each centered under one X6 grow light.
*** The lights are about 31 cm 12" above canopy and providing around 44k LUX.
*** I am looking forward to starting my LUX and VPD analysis soon.
Lessons Learned:
Make the Most of Your LEDs: 5 Tips for Cannabis LED Growing
by RoyalQueenSeeds
The growing prominence of LED grow lights in the cannabis community is undeniable. So we have put together a few tips for anyone wanting to give them a go.
With LED technology rapidly advancing in recent years, more cannabis growers are now switching to LED for their indoor operations. Merely a novelty just a few years back, LED grow lights are now performing as well, if not better, than HID lamps, and have also become more affordable. Due to the many advantages of LEDs, from consuming less energy to being more robust and having a longer life span, they are now a great choice for indoor cultivators of different skill levels. If you grow cannabis with LEDs or plan to make the switch, here are some tips for you.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN CHOOSING AN LED GROW LIGHT
Before you go buying an LED grow light, it helps to know what’s available. Currently, there are three main types of LEDs that you can use to grow cannabis, each of which has its pros and cons. The type of LED light you should choose will depend on what exactly you’re looking for, and how much money you’re willing to spend.
3 MAIN TYPES OF LED GROW LIGHTS
STANDARD (“PURPLE”) LED
These standard LED light fixtures were the first type available for growing, and today, they’re still widely available. These lights contain a lot, sometimes hundreds, of small to medium wattage LEDs (3–5 watts per single LED) in a compact fixture. Cannabis growers sometimes refer to these as “purple” lights, as they often comprise a mix of red and blue LEDs that combine to emit a purple hue.
The biggest advantage of these standard LED lights is their price point. Most are manufactured overseas, and you can find them aplenty on eBay and other places online. A disadvantage is that their quality is often lacking; they can be less than reliable, and their light output is often lower than other types of LEDs, leading to lower yields. To remedy this, we’re now seeing standard LEDs begin to include COB LED lights or UV LEDs in addition to the red and blue, which can help with yield and bud quality.
COB LED
COB means “chip on board”. A COB LED is made of many hundreds of tiny LEDs on one single small chip, as opposed to differently coloured LEDs spread over the entire fixture (as is the case above). COBs are among the most efficient LEDs. They produce a very intense white light that is similar to the natural light spectrum of the sun. One advantage of COBs is that they have good penetration into the plant canopy due to their intensity, resulting in a final yield approaching that of quality HID lamps. They also have a light spectrum that is optimal for healthy growth, and are very energy-efficient.
The drawback can be that a quality grow light with COB LEDs is quite expensive compared to cheaper purple lights. Some grow light manufacturers combine several COB LEDs into one fixture, often equipping them with lenses and reflectors. There are also lights available that are comprised of only one single COB. These single-COB fixtures can be a good choice for larger growing spaces, as you can space a number of them evenly for light distribution across the entire area. Most growers use COB LEDs with a light spectrum that works both for vegging and flowering, but you can also find those with a spectrum (“colour temperature”) tuned specifically to vegging or flowering.
SPREAD-STYLE LED
Spread-style LEDs are comprised of a large number of small LEDs that are spread out on a larger panel or board. There are also spider-style LEDs and rack-style LED lights, which are widely used in commercial greenhouses. The spider-style LED lights don’t use flat panels, but spider-like “arms” with LEDs instead.The main advantage of spread-style grow lights is that they are among the most energy-efficient LEDs, which means you can get the most light for the wattage you’re using. A disadvantage is that quality spread-style LEDs, such as the spider-style lights, can be extremely expensive.
THE ADVANTAGES OF GROWING WITH LED LIGHTS
We’ve already mentioned that LED lights have several advantages when compared to other types of grow lights, such as HID. Here is a full rundown of why you may want to choose LEDs for your next growing operation.
1. LED LIGHTS ARE MORE ENERGY-EFFICIENT
Compared to HID lights, LEDs are a lot more energy-efficient. They use less electricity, and will cost much less to operate in the long-run. Although high-end LED lights can sometimes cost a good chunk of money outright, the investment is almost always worth it as your savings over time will make up for the higher initial cost. Likewise, quality LED light fixtures will also have a longer life span compared to HID, the latter of which tends to lose performance over time and needs frequent replacement. A good LED light can last you many years with no maintenance needed.
2. THEY RUN COOL
LEDs produce a lot less heat compared to HID lights, which can be a big advantage as you won’t require extra cooling systems in your grow room or tent to keep temperatures optimal. This is especially advantageous if you grow in summer or happen to live in a warmer climate. The downside to this is that if you live somewhere cold, you may now need to consider a heater in the colder months. But as LEDs save you money over time, this can make up for the potential costs of running a heater.
3. WITH LED, YOU CAN MOVE YOUR PLANTS CLOSER TO THE LIGHT
LEDs produce less heat, which means less stress on your plants—so you can move your lights closer to your plants without any negative effects. Higher light intensity translates to higher yields!
4. LED LIGHTS REDUCE YOUR WATERING SCHEDULE
With less heat produced by lights, the soil in your pots will stay moist for longer, thus reducing the amount of times you need to water. If you’ve just switched from HID to LED and are used to your plants drinking quite a lot, you now need to be careful with your new watering schedule under LED, otherwise you might overwater your ladies.
5. YOU NEED LESS NUTRIENTS
When you water cannabis plants, you’ll normally do so with an infusion of nutrients. In addition to watering less, your plants will also need less nutes than they would before. In addition to some nice savings on nutrients, the less-frequent watering and feeding schedule will also decrease nutrient buildup, so there’s a lower risk of nutrient lockout and plant deficiencies.
GROWING WITH LED: WHAT TO CONSIDER FOR EACH STAGE OF CULTIVATION
As we touched on earlier, many types of LEDs have a fixed light spectrum that works for both the vegetative (growing) and flowering phases of cannabis. This way, you can just use the same light throughout your entire grow from seed until harvest.
Although this is convenient for most, there are those who want to fine-tune their lights for best results and optimal efficiency in each growing phase. For this purpose, some commercial LED lights have a switch to activate a veg light spectrum or a flower light spectrum. Here are some more factors to consider throughout each stage of growth.
A) LED LIGHTS AND SEEDLINGS
As soon as your seeds have sprouted, your soon-to-be cannabis plant will need light to grow. Compared to more mature plants, however, your seedling is much more sensitive to intense light. Because of that, you should be careful when starting out with strong LEDs.
If your LED has a dimming option, turn your light to a lower intensity. If this isn’t an option, consider moving your lights further up, away from the seedling. On the other hand, ensure that you do not move the lights too far up, as this could cause the seedling to grow spindly and lanky.
Likewise, if your LED has a switch to activate either a vegging or flowering spectrum, set it to veg, where the light normally emits a “cooler” blueish light, which is optimal for this stage. Set your timer to 18 hours of light per day, with 6 hours of darkness.
As your seedling grows taller, stronger, and approaches the most robust part of the vegetative growing stage, you can then gradually increase the light intensity.
Set your light to 18 hours per day and 6 hours of darkness. Some growers choose to grow with 20–24 hours of light to maximise vegetative growth.
Monitor your plant’s development; if all goes well, it should grow healthy, strong, and bushy. If it grows lanky and spindly instead, this is likely because your plant is not getting enough light. Increase the intensity by lowering the light toward the plant canopy or turning up the intensity using the dimmer if your light has one.
How long you want to veg your plant will normally depend on how much space you have available. You can technically let your plant grow under 18–24 hours of light as long as you want, but there will likely come a time when you want to switch to flowering, as the plant would otherwise simply grow too big. Know that some cannabis strains can stretch considerably (up to 2x or more) during early flowering. Take this into account upon deciding when to initiate the switch to bloom.
C) LED LIGHTS FOR FLOWERING
Photoperiodic cannabis starts to flower in late summer when the daylight hours naturally begin to diminish. Indoors, the grower is responsible for inducing bloom by setting the light schedule to 12 hours of light and 12 hours total darkness. If your LED light has a flowering switch, turn it to flowering mode.
When you flower indoors on a 12-12 schedule, it is important that the 12 hours of darkness are not interrupted. So make sure that your tent or greenhouse doesn’t have any light coming in from outside. This would otherwise revert your flowering plant back to veg or potentially cause other issues such as hermaphroditism.
If your LED has a dimmer, now is the time to turn your light to its maximum intensity, or lower your light to the recommended distance from your plants for the flowering stage. If you are not sure what this distance is, most grow light producers have recommendations available.
Important: if you change anything with your lights, such as when you increase intensity and/or lower their position, make sure to do so gradually over several days, rather than in one go. Too sudden of a change can stress your plants too much.
AUTOFLOWERS AND LED
If you’re growing autoflowers rather than photoperiodic strains, you don’t need to bother with initiating flowering by switching your lights to 12 hours on/off. You can just leave your autoflowers at 18–24 hours of light per day up until harvest. Then again, if your LED light has a flowering switch, you should still use it once your autoflowering cannabis is in bloom. This will help increase yield.
LED COMPARED TO HID GROW LIGHTS
HID lights, such as MH/HPS grow lamps, are still widely used as they are cheaper than good LEDs, yet are still reliable for growing top-quality weed. Furthermore, grow tent kits often include HID lights, so many new growers start out with these, rather than LEDs. If you’re wondering now whether you should switch to LED, here are some more aspects to think about.
WHAT IS YOUR BUDGET?
Although you can get LED grow lights “for cheap” nowadays, many of these budget versions from overseas are not worth the money you’d save outright from avoiding high-quality fixtures. If you want quality LEDs, you will normally need to spend some good money to get a light that promises good yields and will last you a long time. So if you’re on a budget and don’t want to, or can’t, spend a lot, it makes sense to continue with HID for the time being, rather than settling for a cheap LED. HID lights will still do a splendid job supporting growth and flowering—in fact, they can still outshine a decent amount of LEDs when it comes to performance.
HEAT PRODUCED BY HID LAMPS CAN BE A PRO OR CON
As already mentioned, HID lamps produce a large amount of heat. So, if heat in your grow room is a concern, you definitely want to look into LEDs. This can save you additional money on exhaust and cooling systems. On the other hand, if you grow in a cold environment, you may just want to stick with your HIDs as they keep the grow room cosy for your plants without needing additional heating.
Are there any differences in bud quality and yield with LEDs compared to MH HID lights? Some growers say that MH lamps give better yields or “prettier buds” compared to LEDs. But there are also those who say that, although HID might give you better yields, LED lights make for a better taste and/or overall better quality of weed. Obviously, what is really “better” is open to interpretation.
For additional information on how LEDs compare to other types of grow lights, you can also read our article on the pros and cons of different types of lights for cannabis.
HOW TO AVOID PROBLEMS WHEN GROWING WITH LED
Modern LED grow lights, for example COB lights, can emit light that is as intense as that from HID. If your plants are too close to your LEDs, this can lead to “light burn”, with discoloured or bleached leaves, nutrient deficiencies, and all sorts of growing troubles. Because of this, it is important to keep your LEDs the proper distance away from your cannabis plants.
There is no “one size fits all” recommendation for the right distance for all types of LEDs, since this varies greatly by type. It depends on the amount of light your LED is emitting, whether your lamp also uses lenses or reflectors, and so on. The manufacturer of your lights should clue you in to the recommended lamp distance from the canopy, either on the instructions that come with your lights or on their website. As a general rule, however, most LEDs should be about 30–45cm away from the tops of your plants to support healthy and vigorous growth.
ToDo:
Learn more about ... Best lighting for growing cannabis.
Learn more about pests and nutrient deficiencies.
Hey SQ! 
Things are trucking along well in there. Loads of fresh pistils pushing and your flowers are getting some shape in them. You must be getting excited now!
You want to learn and you're taking everything in. I see great harvest coming for you my friend.
Things are trucking along well in there. Loads of fresh pistils pushing and your flowers are getting some shape in them. You must be getting excited now!
You want to learn and you're taking everything in. I see great harvest coming for you my friend.Similar threads
