August 11 2019 - Update

Sweet Seeds - Gardens Of The Galaxy Grow



Images:


IMG_20190812_115307_starlord.jpg

Cream Caramel CBD #1 - Star-Lord - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190812_115610_drax.jpg

Red Mandarine F1 Fast #1 - Drax the Destroyer - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190812_120121_baby_groot.jpg

Dark Devil #2 - Groot - Fell down - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 2.


IMG_20190812_120510_thanos.jpg

Dark Devil #3 - Thanos - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190812_120248_rocket.jpg

Killer Kush #1 - Rocket - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 3 - kept the fan leaves this time.


IMG_20190812_120355_gamora.jpg

Green Poison XL #1 - Gamora - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 4!



Growth Stage:

Cream Caramel CBD # 1 ... Day 4/ Week 5 ... Day 32 ... week 2 flower.
Red Mandarin # 1 ... Day 4/ Week 5 ... Day 32 ... week 2 flower.

*** Should get pistels between August 15, 2019 and August 22, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 04, 2019.
*** Should be ready for harvest between September 25, 2019 and October 02, 2019.

*** Photoperiod Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 2-8 weeks veg, 6-12 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Allow 1 day to 3 days of dark before switching to 12-12
*** Pistels show up about 14 days (2 weeks) after switching to 12-12


Dark Devil # 3: Day 4/ Week 1 ... Day 04 ... seedling.
Dark Devil # 2: Day 4/ Week 3 ... Day 18 ... week 2 veg.
Killer Kush #1: Day 4/ Week 3 ... Day 18 ... week 2 veg.
Green Poison XL # 1: Day 4/ Week 3 ... Day 18 ... week 2 veg.

*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should get pistels around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.

*** Autoflower Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 3 weeks veg, 3 weeks pre-flower, 3-6 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Pistels show up about 35 days (5 weeks) after Germination
*** Flowering takes about 56 days (8 weeks) after pistels show up



Environment #1 - Autoflower Veg/Flower:

*** The Inkbird IBS-TH1 I ordered got here, so I will start tracking RH, canopy temperature and VPD again.

*** Environment # 1 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 2.

*** I am running the exhaust fan 24-0 to prevent a rise in RH and to prevent smells in the house.

*** The humidifier is set to 50% RH.

*** I may not need the Temperature Controller anymore.

*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)

CO2 is refreshed frequently when the exhaust fan turns on.

The light is running 4 cycles of "5 hours lights-on and 1 hours lights-off".

The light is 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over the 2 plants.


Watering and Feeding:

Cream Caramel CBD's & Red Mandarine's Feed:

pH: 6.53
ppm: 52

Soil feed - 1.5 litres (0.40 gallons) each.

I used tap water only.

*** Next feed ... about 1.5 litres (0.4 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 4 - CGRSFS, RME around August 14, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.


Dark Devil # 2, Killer Kush & Green Poison XL:

pH: 6.53
ppm: 52

Soil feed - 1.0 litre (0.26 gallons) each.

I used tap water only.

*** Next feed ... about 1.0 litre (0.26 gallons)- Full Dose - Week 2 - CGRSFS, GWM, RME August 11, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



Dark Devil # 3:

pH: 6.53
ppm: 52

Soil feed - 0.5 litres (0.13 gallons) each.

I used tap water only.

*** Next feed ... about 0.5 litres (0.13 gallons) - Full Dose - Seedling - CGRSFS, GWM, RME August 11, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



*** Soil watering and feeding is done 1 hour after the lights turn on ... so the roots have been stimulated to draw nutrients up into the plant.

*** For details on my feeding schedule refer to here: The Different Feeds I need For This Grow (Version 2)



Activities:

My priority is to expose the growth nodes to light and air because they are going to become colas.

Refilled the humidifier with water.


Notes:

Letting the soil dry out between watering and feeds so the tap root can hit the water table at the bottom of the pot, and to prevent overwatering.


Lessons Learned:

Types Of Pots For Growing Weed

By RoyalQueenSeeds

Not all growing containers are equal. Some types of containers are better suited for some purposes than others. Likewise, growing pots don’t just differ in size. You can find containers from the classic flower pot to advanced smart pots or specialty containers for hydro systems. Learn what you need to know about growing containers for weed.

Selecting the optimal growing containers for weed isn’t always easy and straight forward. While you may be able to get by with the ol’ flower pot for your first grow, you want to choose the right growing containers, that provide for optimal growth and healthy plants. Let us take a look at the various types of growing containers available along with their differences, advantages and drawbacks.

If we were to simplify things a bit, the optimal growing containers for your weed plants would be those types of pots, that will provide your plants with the best possible environment for their roots. Healthy roots are essential for optimal nutrition and water intake and quite literally are the foundation for the healthy growth of your plants.

Knowing this, we can go from there when we want to find the optimal type of pot, since we can take into account what cannabis plants need for healthy roots:

The roots of your cannabis plants should never entirely dry out, since dried-out roots mean, that your plants would likely die.

Roots will also want adequate aeration and oxygen. When the roots have easy access to oxygen, this not only promotes fast growth, but will also help keeping mould and other growing troubles in check. A stale root zone depleted of oxygen will almost always lead to problems, if not entirely kill off your plants.

TYPES OF GROWING CONTAINERS AVAILABLE

If you visit a grow store or search around online to get some pots on the internet, you can find various types of containers for cannabis growing. Here are some of the most common types of growing pots.

STANDARD FLOWER POT

0_STANDART.jpg

This is the good ol’ flower pot, that you can get almost everywhere for little money. They are most often made from plastic these days, but you can also find the old classic types, which are made from terracotta. If you get these standard flower pots, you will usually want to get them together with a matching saucer, that serves to catch your runoff water below the pot.

What’s important to know about these types of pots, is that you want them to have drainage holes at the bottom to avoid water logging. Not all pots come with prebored holes, sometimes you will have to break them out, before you use the containers to grow your plants.

Terracotta planters are heavier than plastic pots, but they can be a good choice. Terracotta has a natural ability to soak up and store excess moisture and can provide a cooling effect, which would benefit your plant’s roots in the hot summer months.

SMART POTS (FABRIC POTS)

0_SMART_POT.jpg

The principle behind fabric pots, these so called “smart pots”, is to prevent, that your plants would become rootbound. Rather than growing in a cycle as would be the case in normal (closed) pots, smart pots made from fabric are air-pruning the roots as soon as they reach the sides of the container. This ensures constant new growth of roots and can help promote better plant growth.

Fabric growing pots or bags have the added advantage, that they make it pretty much impossible to overwater a cannabis plant. They can also easily be stored when not in use.

Make note, that the soil in smart pots dries out faster when compared to standard pots. To avoid the smart pots drying out too fast, you want to get double the size pots as you normally would. Of course this comes with the slight drawback, that you will require a bigger amount of growing medium. Since these types of pots leak water to the outside, they may not be suitable for all growing environments.

AIR POTS

0_AIR_POT.jpg

Air pots make use of the same principles as the above mentioned “smart” pots. These are plastic containers with openings on the side, that provide automated “air-pruning” for the roots of your cannabis plant. Like smart pots, you will have to water more often, since these pots can dry out faster as compared to standard pots. Compared to fabric pots and grow bags, air pots have the advantage, that they are sturdier and won’t likely tip over. Since air pots are also leaking water from the openings at the side, you may want to set them above properly sized saucers.

HEMPY BUCKETS

0_HEMPY_BUCKET.jpg

Hempy buckets are providing a type of manual hydroponic system for growing cannabis plants. The difference to normal pots is, that the drainage hole isn’t at the bottom, but several centimetres above, which leaves a small reservoir of nutrient solution at the bottom of the hempy bucket.

As compared to soil grows, you would normally fill the hempy bucket with a mix of perlite and vermiculite or use clay pebbles and then feed the plants with hydroponic nutrients. The nutrient reservoir at the bottom of the bucket means, that you can water less frequently.

Since hempy buckets are a manual and passive way of hydroponic growing with no pumps for oxygen, you need to ensure, that the nutrient solution left in the pot won’t become stagnant, since this could lead to growing troubles.

CATCHING RUNOFF WATER WITH SAUCERS

Since you don’t want runoff water flooding your entire growing area, you want saucers placed under your pots. Normally, you would have a matching saucer for each of your growing containers.

Some types of growing containers like smart pots or air pots will require much bigger saucers, since excess water will flow down the sides when watering. Take this into account.

Most cannabis growers will likely get into a routine of frequently emptying out their saucers. This isn’t much of a problem if your plants are still small and you can easily access any pot in your growing area. Sometimes, in particular when your plants have grown taller, reaching to each and every pot and removing the saucers can become quite a chore, if not entirely impossible due to space constraints.

One solution for this problem can be if you use large trays underneath a number of growing pots as opposed to smaller, individual saucers under each. If you set this large runoff tray on a small incline, the water will usually collect in one space and you can then easily remove it with a shop vac.

Another more advanced solution can be with an automated pump, that can take care of the runoff water, that will collect in your tray.

WHAT SIZE OF GROWING CONTAINER IS BEST

Not all cannabis plants require the same size of growing containers. Some plants, for example autoflowering varieties, are not growing too tall and can do well in smaller or medium sized containers. When you select the size of your growing pot, consider the final size of your cannabis plant.

As a first starting point for selecting the right size pots, you can use pot sizes of approximately 7.5l for each 30cm of plant height. Just know, that not all cannabis varieties grow in the same way. Some strains can grow wide and bushy, while others can grow tall and slender, but this rule can help you get started finding the right sized pot.

GROWING CONTAINERS FOR SEEDLINGS

The same principles for healthy growth will apply for smaller containers for your seedlings. You need to ensure proper drainage for your seedlings as well. Since pots for seedlings can be very small and don’t hold too much growing medium, the soil dries out quicker, which means, that the risk of overwatering is lower.

Many cannabis growers use solo cups (“party cups”) for their seedlings without problems. Just make sure to cut drainage holes in the bottom of the cup.

Not always can it be recommended to start out cannabis plants in a small pot or cup and then transplant them later. Any repotting will always cause some stress to your plants, that you want to avoid.

For autoflowering varieties, that by their nature have a preset and rather short life cycle, it can often be best to start these plants in their final container. The reasoning here is, that you want to avoid any stunted and halted growth from repotting during their short growing life cycle if you want to max out your plant's growth and yield.

TRANSPLANTING YOUR PLANTS INTO BIGGER GROWING CONTAINERS

Most of the time (with some exceptions as mentioned above) you will likely start out your seedlings or clones in small containers and transplant them to bigger pots when the right time has come. The reason here is, that a bigger container allows for a larger root system, that your now rather grown-up cannabis plant will require to get all her nutrients.

Transplanting on the other hand can always cause some stress for your plants and if not done carefully, could even kill your plant, say, should you damage the roots when transplanting. It is therefore important, that you move your plants, so that you don’t disrupt their roots in any way.

The best time to transplant is when your cannabis plant has developed a vast root system, but is not rootbound in the pot yet. Normally, the right time for a transplant is when your plant’s roots would show through the holes of your pot, as if they were searching for more room to grow. You want to avoid the plant having become completely rootbound though.

Carefully take out the plant from the first pot and try not to disturb the roots. In the bigger pot, make a hole in the middle of the growing medium where you carefully place the plant. Fill any remaining gaps in the new pot up with soil or whatever growing medium you are using.

When you transplant your seedlings, the best time for larger ports is usually when the seedlings have grown 3-4 sets of leaves.


If you want to avoid any type of potential growing troubles and want to keep it on the safe side, simply skip transplanting altogether and start your plants in their final pots. Your plants may start out slower than if you were to start them in smaller pots, but the reduced risk and then the less work from transplanting can be worth it, especially for less experienced growers.



ToDo:

Learn more about What Are Nematodes? Friends Or Foe Of Cannabis?.

Learn more about LUX and PAR.

Learn more about Temperature/Relative Humidity and Vapor Pressure Deficit.
 
August 12 2019 - Update

Sweet Seeds - Gardens Of The Galaxy Grow



Images:


IMG_20190812_194539_starlord.jpg

Cream Caramel CBD #1 - Star-Lord - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190812_194645_drax.jpg

Red Mandarine F1 Fast #1 - Drax the Destroyer - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190812_215355_baby_groot.jpg

Dark Devil #2 - Baby Groot - Fell down - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 2.


IMG_20190812_215518_thanos.jpg

Dark Devil #3 - Thanos - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190812_220229_rocket.jpg

Killer Kush #1 - Rocket - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 3 - kept the fan leaves this time.


IMG_20190812_220339_gamora.jpg

Green Poison XL #1 - Gamora - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 4!



Growth Stage:

Cream Caramel CBD # 1 ... Day 5/ Week 5 ... Day 33 ... week 2 flower.
Red Mandarin # 1 ... Day 5/ Week 5 ... Day 33 ... week 2 flower.

*** Should get pistels between August 15, 2019 and August 22, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 04, 2019.
*** Should be ready for harvest between September 25, 2019 and October 02, 2019.

*** Photoperiod Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 2-8 weeks veg, 6-12 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Allow 1 day to 3 days of dark before switching to 12-12
*** Pistels show up about 14 days (2 weeks) after switching to 12-12


Dark Devil # 3: Day 5/ Week 1 ... Day 05 ... seedling.
Dark Devil # 2: Day 5/ Week 3 ... Day 19 ... week 2 veg.
Killer Kush #1: Day 5/ Week 3 ... Day 19 ... week 2 veg.
Green Poison XL # 1: Day 5/ Week 3 ... Day 19 ... week 2 veg.

*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should get pistels around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.

*** Autoflower Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 3 weeks veg, 3 weeks pre-flower, 3-6 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Pistels show up about 35 days (5 weeks) after Germination
*** Flowering takes about 56 days (8 weeks) after pistels show up



Environment #1 - Autoflower Veg/Flower:

*** The Inkbird IBS-TH1 I ordered got here, so I will start tracking RH, canopy temperature and VPD again.

*** Environment # 1 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 2.

*** I am running the exhaust fan 24-0 to prevent a rise in RH and to prevent smells in the house.

*** The humidifier is set to 50% RH.

*** I may not need the Temperature Controller anymore.

*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)

CO2 is refreshed frequently when the exhaust fan turns on.

The light is running 4 cycles of "5 hours lights-on and 1 hours lights-off".

The light is 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over the 2 plants.


Watering and Feeding:

Cream Caramel CBD's & Red Mandarine's Feed:

*** Next feed ... about 1.5 litres (0.4 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 4 - CGRSFS, RME around August 14, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.


Dark Devil # 2, Killer Kush & Green Poison XL:

*** Next feed ... about 0.8 litre (0.21 gallons)- Full Dose - Week 2 - CGRSFS, RME around August 14, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



Dark Devil # 3:

*** Next feed ... about 0.5 litres (0.13 gallons) - Full Dose - Seedling - CGRSFS, RME around August 14, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



*** I will do a regular feed(CGRSFS, RME)/feed(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE)/water cycle for all regular weeks.
*** I will do full-on bloom feeds(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE) for the last two weeks prior to harvest.

*** For details on my feeding schedule refer to here: The Different Feeds I need For This Grow (Version 2)



Activities:

My priority is to expose the growth nodes to light and air because they are going to become colas.

Refilled the humidifier with water.


Notes:

Letting the soil dry out between watering and feeds so the tap root can hit the water table at the bottom of the pot, and to prevent overwatering.


Lessons Learned:

What Are Nematodes? Friends Or Foe Of Cannabis?

By RoyalQueenSeeds

Nematodes are microscopic worms that are essential for a healthy living soil. But that does not mean they are all beneficial for cannabis. In this segment, we will explore how to use them.

Nematodes are microscopic worm-like creatures that can live almost anywhere. Also known as roundworms, they can be either parasitic or symbiotic. This means that out of the approximately 25,000 known variants of nematodes, roughly 50% are predatory, while the other half works in favour of its environment.

ALL ABOUT NEMATODES

Nematodes can adapt and live under numerous conditions, be it in sub-zero polar temperatures, high-salt and pressure zones like the deep sea, fresh water sources, or even the desert.

In agriculture, nematodes can be either detrimental or beneficial to plants. In fact, some species are so aggressive they are considered parasitic and can cause devastation of entire plantations.

One such example is the root-knot nematode, which as the name implies, works by entangling itself around the roots and swelling up, forming huge abnormal galls. There are five types of nematodes that attack the roots, and one that attacks the stems—the stem nematode. This one will cause swelling and atrophy of the stems and leaves, severe stunting, and even wilting. The result is more often than not an irrecoverable crop. Luckily, this doomsday scenario is relatively easy to prevent.

On the other side of the spectrum, we have the good guys. Symbiotic nematodes will actively seek and destroy major pests to the cannabis plant, over 200 of them. From fungus gnats, fleas, termites, Japanese beetles and many more, they prey on the larval state of these pests by infecting them with plant-safe bacteria that destroys the host from the inside out. Very often, they will also insert their own larvae to feed off and grow from within the host.

OUT WITH THE BAD AND IN WITH THE GOOD

The best line of defence against bad nematodes is prevention. While there are numerous pesticides you can use, they will also equally eradicate a significant amount of the good microbiology around the rhizosphere—the living ecology surrounding the roots.

Moreover, the use of pesticides that are considered safe to ingest may become very toxic when smoked. For example, myclobutanil, which is safe for human consumption, turns into hydrogen cyanide when combusted, which is a dangerous poison.

The best tactic is to keep everything healthy. An overused or improperly recycled soil is a playground for parasitic nematodes. Stagnant water is always a bad idea. Keeping the topsoil layer dry will prevent 90% of nematode species and other pests from laying eggs. Numerous beneficial bacteria—like Pasteuria penetrans—also have the ability to destroy eggs and larvae. Even some mushroom species are capable of destroying fully developed nematodes, like Arthrobotrys oligospora or Entomophthora gypsophila.

So, by keeping your substrate fresh, cultivating beneficial bacteria, being sure wet-dry cycles are balanced, and oxygenating your water—these typical performance tweaks will work wonders against parasitic nematodes while promoting symbiotic nematodes.

You can also inoculate your cannabis plants with selected nematodes for added defence and healthier plants. Nematodes can be cultured, similar to beneficial bacteria, but they have a very short shelf-life. They are readily available from any agriculture pest-control company. Best of all, these products are often OMRI certified, which is excellent for pure organic growers.


0_Inner-Nemas.jpg


Heterorhabditis bacteriophora will help prevent
  • Ticks
  • Ant queens
  • Adult fleas
  • Humpback flies
  • Leafminers
  • Gall midges
  • Numerous moths
  • Several weevils
Steinernema carpocapsae will help prevent
  • Black cutworms
  • Caterpillars
  • Flea larvae
  • Fly larvae
  • Webworms
  • Wireworms
  • Wood borers
  • Several weevils
Steinernema Feltiae will help prevent
  • Black cutworm
  • Fungus gnats
  • Pill worm
  • Root maggots
  • Shore flies
  • Subterranean termites
  • Ticks
  • Several weevils
INOCULATING YOUR SOIL

Inoculating your substrate with nematodes is as simple as mixing them with plain unchlorinated water and spraying it on the topsoil. It is advised not to mix the species together; instead, spray them one at a time on different days. This will enable your army of pest-seeking roundworms to travel into the subsoil using moisture while reproducing at record speeds. Nematodes can eat up to 5,000 bacteria per second. They will colonise the rhizosphere in no time. From here, you can add the subsequent species so they don't compete with each other, instead forming several lines of defence. By doing so, your soil will become much more alive and productive.


One thing to keep in mind is that UV light from the sun does damage nematodes considerably. Avoid spraying them during the daytime. Even indoors, metal halide lamps can give off considerable amounts of UV-A, UV-B, and also trace amounts of UV-C. It is therefore advisable to inoculate your soil at sunset to give the nematodes plenty of time to travel deep into the rhizosphere.



ToDo:

Learn more about ... Splitting Stems: Should You Take A Knife To Your Cannabis Plant?

Learn more about LUX and PAR.

Learn more about Temperature/Relative Humidity and Vapor Pressure Deficit.
 
August 13 2019 - Update

Sweet Seeds - Gardens Of The Galaxy Grow




Images:


IMG_20190813_165643_starlord.jpg

Cream Caramel CBD #1 - Star-Lord - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190813_165747_drax.jpg

Red Mandarine F1 Fast #1 - Drax the Destroyer - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190813_170015_baby_groot.jpg

Dark Devil #2 - Baby Groot - Fell down - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 2.


IMG_20190813_170132_thanos.jpg

Dark Devil #3 - Thanos - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190813_170255_rocket.jpg

Killer Kush #1 - Rocket - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 3 - kept the fan leaves this time.


IMG_20190813_170405_gamora.jpg

Green Poison XL #1 - Gamora - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 4!



Growth Stage:

Cream Caramel CBD # 1 ... Day 6/ Week 5 ... Day 34 ... week 2 flower.
Red Mandarin # 1 ... Day 6/ Week 5 ... Day 34 ... week 2 flower.

*** Should get pistels between August 15, 2019 and August 22, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 04, 2019.
*** Should be ready for harvest between September 25, 2019 and October 02, 2019.

*** Photoperiod Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 2-8 weeks veg, 6-12 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Allow 1 day to 3 days of dark before switching to 12-12
*** Pistels show up about 14 days (2 weeks) after switching to 12-12


Dark Devil # 3: Day 6/ Week 1 ... Day 06 ... seedling.
Dark Devil # 2: Day 6/ Week 3 ... Day 20 ... week 2 veg.
Killer Kush #1: Day 6/ Week 3 ... Day 20 ... week 2 veg.
Green Poison XL # 1: Day 6/ Week 3 ... Day 20 ... week 2 veg.

*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should get pistels around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.

*** Autoflower Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 3 weeks veg, 3 weeks pre-flower, 3-6 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Pistels show up about 35 days (5 weeks) after Germination
*** Flowering takes about 56 days (8 weeks) after pistels show up



Environment #1 - Autoflower Veg/Flower:

*** The Inkbird IBS-TH1 I ordered got here, so I will start tracking RH, canopy temperature and VPD again.

*** Environment # 1 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 2.

*** I am running the exhaust fan 24-0 to prevent a rise in RH and to prevent smells in the house.

*** The humidifier is set to 50% RH.

*** I may not need the Temperature Controller anymore.

*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)

CO2 is refreshed frequently when the exhaust fan turns on.

The light is running 4 cycles of "5 hours lights-on and 1 hours lights-off".

The light is 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over the 2 plants.


Watering and Feeding:

Cream Caramel CBD's & Red Mandarine's Feed:

*** Next feed ... about 1.5 litres (0.4 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 4 - CGRSFS, RME around August 14, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.


Dark Devil # 2, Killer Kush & Green Poison XL:

*** Next feed ... about 0.8 litre (0.21 gallons)- Full Dose - Week 2 - CGRSFS, RME around August 14, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



Dark Devil # 3:

*** Next feed ... about 0.5 litres (0.13 gallons) - Full Dose - Seedling - CGRSFS, RME around August 14, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.




*** I will do a regular feed(CGRSFS, RME)/feed(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE)/water cycle for all regular weeks.
*** I will do full-on bloom feeds(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE) for the last two weeks prior to harvest.

*** For details on my feeding schedule refer to here: The Different Feeds I need For This Grow (Version 2)



Activities:

My priority is to expose the growth nodes to light and air because they are going to become colas.

Refilled the humidifier with water.


Notes:

Letting the soil dry out between watering and feeds so the tap root can hit the water table at the bottom of the pot, and to prevent overwatering.

*** I am looking forward to doing LUX and VPD analysis soon.


Lessons Learned:

Splitting Stems: Should You Take A Knife To Your Cannabis Plant?

By RoyalQueenSeeds

Taking a knife to your cannabis plants a few days before harvest seems pretty counterintuitive. However, many growers say stem splitting can produce bigger yields and more trichomes for tastier, more potent bud. Read on to learn more.

Stem splitting is a very aggressive grow technique that’s generating a lot of discussion in the cannabis cultivation community. Those in favour of this technique argue that it stresses the plant in a beneficial way, forcing it to take up more nutrients and produce bigger, more potent buds. Could this be true? Keep reading to find out.

THE THEORY BEHIND STEM SPLITTING

Most grow techniques that involve stress work on the same principles; stressing a cannabis plant encourages it to take up more nutrients, which in turn results in more vegetative growth and heavier harvests.

The theory behind stem splitting is no different. However, it’s a lot more controversial than other high-stress techniques such as topping, fimming, or super cropping. After all, taking a knife to the stems of your flowering cannabis plants is pretty hardcore.

Nonetheless, many growers suggest stem splitting can produce bigger, denser buds and a higher concentration of trichomes. Trichomes actually serve to protect the cannabis plant against pests, environmental factors, and disease. Growers believe that the stress induced by splitting your plants at the end of their flowering cycle pushes them to produce more trichomes just in time for harvest.

HOW TO SPLIT THE STEMS OF YOUR CANNABIS PLANT

To split the stems of your cannabis plant, you’ll need:

*** A clean, sharp knife (a Stanley blade works great)
*** Measuring tape
*** Rope or tape to mark the cut you’ll be making along the stem
*** A pencil, chopstick, or skewer to separate the stem after it’s been split

1. First, start by measuring the part of your plant’s stem that you’ll be splitting. You’ll want to make a cut of around 10–20cm right beneath the lowest branches of your plant. Use some tape or rope to mark out both the top and bottom of the cut.

2. Next, take your knife and cut through the stem, starting at the highest part of the cut. Be sure to make a clean cut right through the centre of the stem.

3. Use your knife to cut down to the lower mark you made earlier. Make sure your cut is as straight as possible. Once you reach the bottom of your cut, keep the knife stuck in the stem and use a pencil/chopstick/skewer to pry open the cut, then pull out your knife.


0_stem-stress-cannabis_1.jpg


WHEN IS THE BEST TIME FOR STEM SPLITTING?

There are many different theories on the best time to put scalpel to stem, but most growers suggest doing so in the last week of flowering. While some growers recommend splitting in the last 3 days before harvest, we recommend slightly earlier (7–10 days before harvest).

WHAT ARE THE RISKS OF STEM SPLITTING?

Splitting is a really aggressive high-stress technique, and we only recommend it to experienced growers. Also, we do not recommend stem splitting on autoflowering strains, as it can be far too intense for them.

DOES STEM SPLITTING REALLY WORK?


There’s a solid body of skilled growers who say that stem splitting can produce great results. Unfortunately, there’s not a lot of qualitative data to prove that. However, stem splitting is believed to originate from Holland, where it has been used by expert Dutch growers since the 1970s.



ToDo:

Learn more about ... Cannabis Nutrient and Deficiency Table.

Learn more about LUX and PAR.

Learn more about Temperature/Relative Humidity and Vapor Pressure Deficit.
 
Thanks @Mr. Magoo ...

Special effects and close ups ... lol :)

Actually Drax is one of my favorites this grow ... I have high expectations for sure.

Have you ever tried growing using the "12-12 from seed" method? That's what I'm doing with Star-Lord and Drax!
No never tried that. Will be curious to see the results and finish times.
 
August 14 2019 - Update

Sweet Seeds - Gardens Of The Galaxy Grow



Images:


IMG_20190814_173809_starlord.jpg

Cream Caramel CBD #1 - Star-Lord - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190814_174232_drax.jpg

Red Mandarine F1 Fast #1 - Drax the Destroyer - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190814_175328_baby_groot.jpg

Dark Devil #2 - Baby Groot - Fell down - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 2.


IMG_20190814_175441_thanos.jpg

Dark Devil #3 - Thanos - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190814_175804_rocket.jpg

Killer Kush #1 - Rocket - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 3 - kept the fan leaves this time.


IMG_20190814_175909_gamora.jpg

Green Poison XL #1 - Gamora - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 4!



Growth Stage:

Cream Caramel CBD # 1 ... Day 7/ Week 5 ... Day 35 ... week 2 flower.
Red Mandarin # 1 ... Day 7/ Week 5 ... Day 35 ... week 2 flower.

*** Should get pistels between August 15, 2019 and August 22, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 04, 2019.
*** Should be ready for harvest between September 25, 2019 and October 02, 2019.

*** Photoperiod Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 2-8 weeks veg, 6-12 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Allow 1 day to 3 days of dark before switching to 12-12
*** Pistels show up about 14 days (2 weeks) after switching to 12-12


Dark Devil # 3: Day 7/ Week 1 ... Day 07 ... seedling.

Dark Devil # 2: Day 7/ Week 3 ... Day 21 ... week 2 veg.
Killer Kush #1: Day 7/ Week 3 ... Day 21 ... week 2 veg.
Green Poison XL # 1: Day 7/ Week 3 ... Day 21 ... week 2 veg.

*** Should get pistels around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.

*** Autoflower Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 3 weeks veg, 3 weeks pre-flower, 3-6 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Pistels show up about 35 days (5 weeks) after Germination
*** Flowering takes about 56 days (8 weeks) after pistels show up



Environment #1 - Autoflower Veg/Flower:

*** The Inkbird IBS-TH1 I ordered got here, so I will start tracking RH, canopy temperature and VPD again.

*** Environment # 1 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 2.

*** I am running the exhaust fan 24-0 to prevent a rise in RH and to prevent smells in the house.

*** The humidifier is set to 50% RH.

*** I may not need the Temperature Controller anymore.

*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)

CO2 is refreshed frequently when the exhaust fan turns on.

The light is running 4 cycles of "5 hours lights-on and 1 hours lights-off".

The lights are 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over the 2 plants.


Watering and Feeding:

Cream Caramel CBD's & Red Mandarine's Feed:

*** Next feed ... about 1.5 litres (0.4 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 5 - CGRSFS, RME around August 15, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.


Dark Devil # 2, Killer Kush & Green Poison XL:

*** Next feed ... about 1.0 litre (0.26 gallons)- Full Dose - Week 3 - CGRSFS, RME around August 15, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



Dark Devil # 3:

*** Next feed ... about 0.5 litres (0.13 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 1 - CGRSFS, RME around August 15, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.




*** I will do a regular feed(CGRSFS, RME)/feed(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE)/water cycle for all regular weeks.
*** I will do full-on bloom feeds(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE) for the last two weeks prior to harvest.

*** For details on my feeding schedule refer to here: The Different Feeds I need For This Grow (Version 2)



Activities:

My priority is to expose the growth nodes to light and air because they are going to become colas.

*** Turned off the humidifier.


Notes:

Letting the soil dry out between watering and feeds so the tap root can hit the water table at the bottom of the pot, and to prevent overwatering.

*** I am looking forward to doing LUX and VPD analysis soon.


Lessons Learned:

Cannabis Nutrient and Deficiency Table

By RoyalQueenSeeds

Growing your own cannabis is a fine pursuit. Cultivating for the best results takes care and patience. Plant growth requires a mix of nutrients and compounds to keep plants healthy. If your crop is deficient in any of the following nutrients, we can show you how to get back on track.

NITROGEN (N)

0_NITROGEN.jpg


Symptoms of Nitrogen deficiency include; red stems, small growth, pale appearance to the plant, and a rapid yellowing of the lower leaves that spreads up the plant. To remedy this particular situation, simply add a organic fertilizer containing nitrogen and monitor.

PHOSPHOROUS (P)

0_PHOSHPHOROUS_3.jpg


Phosphorous deficiency symptoms include; red stems and slow, stunted, or deformed growth but also include darker green lower leaves as well as leaves that may yellow then die. Adding a organic fertilizer containing Phosphorous can fix this problem but, while improvement to damaged areas may not show, newer growth will appear normal.

POTASSIUM (K)

0_POTASSIUM.jpg


Another issue similar to Nitrogen and Phosphorous deficiencies, Potassium deficiency has similar symptoms and include, curling of leaf ends as they die and stretching of the plant. This can be cured by adding a organic fertilizer containing Potassium. Another fix would be to flush the plant with water and half the normal amount of a balanced NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium) nutrient solution.

CALCIUM (CA)

0_CALCIUM.jpg


Plants lacking Calcium balance can result in the soil becoming too acidic. Calcium deficiency can be fixed by foliar feeding (adding liquid fertilizer directly to plant leaves) one teaspoon of dolomatic lime per quart of water until the plant's condition approves.



ToDo:

Learn more about ... Maximum Yield With Autoflowering Marijuana.

Learn more about LUX and PAR.

Learn more about Temperature/Relative Humidity and Vapor Pressure Deficit.
 
August 15 2019 - Update

Sweet Seeds - Gardens Of The Galaxy Grow



Images:


IMG_20190815_182818_starlord.jpg

Cream Caramel CBD #1 - Star-Lord - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190815_213518_drax.jpg

Red Mandarine F1 Fast #1 - Drax the Destroyer - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190815_192523_babygroot.jpg

Dark Devil #2 - Baby Groot - Fell down - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 2.


IMG_20190815_192621_thanos.jpg

Dark Devil #3 - Thanos - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190815_192816_rocket.jpg

Killer Kush #1 - Rocket - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 3 - kept the fan leaves this time.


IMG_20190815_192922_gamora.jpg

Green Poison XL #1 - Gamora - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 4!



Growth Stage:

Cream Caramel CBD # 1 ... Day 1/ Week 6 ... Day 36 ... week 3 flower.
Red Mandarin # 1 ... Day 1/ Week 6 ... Day 36 ... week 3 flower.

*** Should get pistels between August 15, 2019 and August 22, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 04, 2019.
*** Should be ready for harvest between September 25, 2019 and October 02, 2019.

*** Photoperiod Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 2-8 weeks veg, 6-12 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Allow 1 day to 3 days of dark before switching to 12-12
*** Pistels show up about 14 days (2 weeks) after switching to 12-12


Dark Devil # 2: Day 1/ Week 4 ... Day 22 ... week 3 veg.
Killer Kush #1: Day 1/ Week 4 ... Day 22 ... week 3 veg.
Green Poison XL # 1: Day 1/ Week 4 ... Day 22 ... week 3 veg.

*** Should get pistels around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.


Dark Devil # 3: Day 1/ Week 2 ... Day 08 ... week 1 veg.

*** Should get pistels around September 11, 2019.
*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.

*** Autoflower Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 3 weeks veg, 3 weeks pre-flower, 3-6 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Pistels show up about 35 days (5 weeks) after Germination
*** Flowering takes about 56 days (8 weeks) after pistels show up



Environment #1 - Autoflower Veg/Flower:

*** The Inkbird IBS-TH1 I ordered got here, so I will start tracking RH, canopy temperature and VPD again.

*** Environment # 1 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 2.

*** I am running the exhaust fan 24-0 to prevent a rise in RH and to prevent smells in the house.

*** The humidifier is set to 50% RH.

*** I may not need the Temperature Controller anymore.

*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)

CO2 is refreshed frequently when the exhaust fan turns on.

The light is running 4 cycles of "5 hours lights-on and 1 hours lights-off".

The lights are 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over the 2 plants.


Watering and Feeding:


Cream Caramel CBD's & Red Mandarin's Feed:

pH: 6.58
ppm: 1878

1.5 litres (0.4 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 5 - CGRSFS, RME.


Cream Caramel CBD's & Red Mandarin's Feed:

*** Next feed ... 1.5 litres (0.4 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 6 - CGRSFS, CS, BPSS, BTTE around August 18, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.


Dark Devil # 2, Killer Kush & Green Poison XL:

*** Next feed ... about 1.0 litre (0.26 gallons)- Full Dose - Week 3 - CGRSFS, RME around August 16, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



Dark Devil # 3:

*** Next feed ... about 0.5 litres (0.13 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 1 - CGRSFS, RME around August 16, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



*** I will do a regular feed(CGRSFS, RME)/feed(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE)/water cycle for all regular weeks.
*** I will do full-on bloom feeds(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE) for the last two weeks prior to harvest.

*** For details on my feeding schedule refer to here: The Different Feeds I need For This Grow (Version 2)



Activities:

My priority is to expose the growth nodes to light and air because they are going to become colas.

*** Turned off the humidifier.


Notes:

Letting the soil dry out between watering and feeds so the tap root can hit the water table at the bottom of the pot, and to prevent overwatering.

*** I am looking forward to doing LUX and VPD analysis soon.


Lessons Learned:

Cannabis Nutrient and Deficiency Table

By RoyalQueenSeeds

Growing your own cannabis is a fine pursuit. Cultivating for the best results takes care and patience. Plant growth requires a mix of nutrients and compounds to keep plants healthy. If your crop is deficient in any of the following nutrients, we can show you how to get back on track.

SULPHUR (S)

0_SULFER.jpg


If the new growth of a plant contains yellowing, it is probably suffering from Sulfur deficiency. This deficiency can be cured by mixing one tablespoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water until the plant's condition improves.

MAGNESIUM (MG)

0_MAGNESIUM.jpg


Magnesium deficiency usually starts in the middle of the plant and spreads to the younger leaves. Leaves turning yellow, or even white, with the veins remaining dark green is the best indicator of Magnesium deficiency and can best be cured by spraying with a 2 percent Epsom salt solution.

IRON (Fe)

0_IRON.jpg


Pale leaves with dark green veins are indicative of Iron deficiency and can be fixed by foliar feeding with a organic fertilizer containing Iron.

MANGANESE (Mn)

0_MANGANESE.jpg


When large amounts of Magnesium are present in the soil, yellow or necrotic (dying or dead) spots will occur on the upper leaves. To cure, foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Manganese.



ToDo:

Learn more about ... Maximum Yield With Autoflowering Marijuana.

Learn more about LUX and PAR.

Learn more about Temperature/Relative Humidity and Vapor Pressure Deficit.
 
Hey @SQl2kGuy plants look very healthy! Very detailed journaling! I'll sub in DDA is a strain I would like try one day looking forward to what you will do with it

We're glad you popped by!!!

We have two DDAs on the go ... they are our family favorite because they are purple.

My favorite so far is the Red Mandarin ... I'm looking forward to the red colas!

Oh ... I see you are growing Orange Sherbert ... that's on my list for sure ... so I'll pop into your journal in a bit once I've got this harvest settled. I am putting in a lot of review time and prep time so I don't blow three months of work!

ttyl
 
August 16 2019 - Update

Sweet Seeds - Gardens Of The Galaxy Grow




Images:



IMG_20190816_151358_starlord.jpg

Cream Caramel CBD #1 - Star-Lord - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190816_151627_drax.jpg

Red Mandarine F1 Fast #1 - Drax the Destroyer - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190816_152111_babygroot.jpg

Dark Devil #2 - Baby Groot - Fell down - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 2.


IMG_20190816_152250_rocket.jpg

Killer Kush #1 - Rocket - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 3 - kept the fan leaves this time.


IMG_20190816_152337_gamora.jpg

Green Poison XL #1 - Gamora - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 4 - kept the fan leaves this time.!


IMG_20190816_152202_thanos.jpg

Dark Devil #3 - Thanos - Looks healthy so far.


Environment #1 - Autoflower Veg/Flower:

*** The Inkbird IBS-TH1 I ordered got here, so I will start tracking RH, canopy temperature and VPD again.

*** Environment # 1 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 2.

*** I am running the exhaust fan 24-0 to prevent a rise in RH and to prevent smells in the house.

*** The humidifier is set to 50% RH.

*** I may not need the Temperature Controller anymore.

*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)

CO2 is refreshed frequently when the exhaust fan turns on.

The light is running 4 cycles of "5 hours lights-on and 1 hours lights-off".

The lights are 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over the 2 plants.



Growth Stage:

Cream Caramel CBD # 1 ... Day 2/ Week 6 ... Day 37 ... week 3 flower.
Red Mandarin # 1 ... Day 2/ Week 6 ... Day 37 ... week 3 flower.

*** Should get pistels between August 15, 2019 and August 22, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 04, 2019.
*** Should be ready for harvest between September 25, 2019 and October 02, 2019.

*** Photoperiod Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 2-8 weeks veg, 6-12 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Allow 1 day to 3 days of dark before switching to 12-12
*** Pistels show up about 14 days (2 weeks) after switching to 12-12


Dark Devil # 2: Day 2/ Week 4 ... Day 23 ... week 3 veg.
Killer Kush #1: Day 2/ Week 4 ... Day 23 ... week 3 veg.
Green Poison XL # 1: Day 2/ Week 4 ... Day 23 ... week 3 veg.

*** Should get pistels around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.


Dark Devil # 3: Day 2/ Week 2 ... Day 09 ... week 1 veg.

*** Should get pistels around September 11, 2019.
*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.

*** Autoflower Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 3 weeks veg, 3 weeks pre-flower, 3-6 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Pistels show up about 35 days (5 weeks) after Germination
*** Flowering takes about 56 days (8 weeks) after pistels show up



Watering and Feeding:


Cream Caramel CBD's & Red Mandarin's Regular Feed:

*** Next feed ... 1.5 litres (0.4 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 5 - CGRSFS, CS, BPSS, BTTE around August 18, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.


Dark Devil # 2, Killer Kush & Green Poison XL Regular Feed:

*** Next feed ... about 1.0 litre (0.26 gallons)- Full Dose - Week 3 - CGRSFS, CS, BPSS, BTTE around August 18, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



Dark Devil # 3:

*** Next feed ... about 0.5 litres (0.13 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 1 - CGRSFS, CS, BPSS, BTTE around August 18, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



*** I will do a regular feed(CGRSFS, RME)/feed(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE)/water cycle for all regular weeks.
*** I will do full-on bloom feeds(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE) for the last two weeks prior to harvest.

*** For details on my feeding schedule refer to here: The Different Feeds I need For This Grow (Version 2)



Activities:

My priority is to expose the growth nodes to light and air because they are going to become colas.

*** Turned off the humidifier.


Notes:

Letting the soil dry out between watering and feeds so the tap root can hit the water table at the bottom of the pot, and to prevent over watering.

*** I am looking forward to doing LUX and VPD analysis soon.


Lessons Learned:

Cannabis Nutrient and Deficiency Table

By RoyalQueenSeeds

Growing your own cannabis is a fine pursuit. Cultivating for the best results takes care and patience. Plant growth requires a mix of nutrients and compounds to keep plants healthy. If your crop is deficient in any of the following nutrients, we can show you how to get back on track.

BORON (B)

0_BORON.jpg


Dead or greying shoots that appear burnt are indicative of Boron deficiency and can be treated with one teaspoon of Boric acid per gallon of water.


MOLYBDENUM (Mo)

0_MOLYBDENUM.jpg


Mo deficiency includes yellowing of middle leaves and can be treated by adding organic fertilizer containing Molybdenum.


ZINC (Zn)

0_ZINC.jpg


When white areas form at leaf tips or in between veins, the plant is Zinc deficient. This can be treated by adding organic fertilizer containing Zinc or by burying galvanized nails in the soil.


OVER FERTILIZATION

0_OVER-FERTILIZATION_1.jpg


Indicated by yellow or burnt leaf tips, Over Fertilization can be fixed by flushing 3 gallons of water per every gallon of soil.




ToDo:

Learn more about ... Maximum Yield With Autoflowering Marijuana.

Learn more about LUX and PAR.

Learn more about Temperature/Relative Humidity and Vapor Pressure Deficit.
 
August 17 2019 - Update

Sweet Seeds - Gardens Of The Galaxy Grow

Images:


IMG_20190817_174854_starlord.jpg

Cream Caramel CBD #1 - Star-Lord - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190817_175034_drax.jpg

Red Mandarine F1 Fast #1 - Drax the Destroyer - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190817_180910_babygroot.jpg

Dark Devil #2 - Baby Groot - Fell down - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 2.


IMG_20190817_182159_rocket.jpg

Killer Kush #1 - Rocket - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 3 - kept the fan leaves this time.


IMG_20190817_183145_gamora.jpg

Green Poison XL #1 - Gamora - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 4 - kept the fan leaves this time.!


IMG_20190817_181034_thanos.jpg

Dark Devil #3 - Thanos - Looks healthy so far.


Environment #1 - Autoflower Veg/Flower:

*** The Inkbird IBS-TH1 I ordered got here, so I will start tracking RH, canopy temperature and VPD again.

*** Environment # 1 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 2.

*** I am running the exhaust fan 24-0 to prevent a rise in RH and to prevent smells in the house.

*** The humidifier is set to 50% RH.

*** I may not need the Temperature Controller anymore.

*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)

CO2 is refreshed frequently when the exhaust fan turns on.

The light is running 4 cycles of "5 hours lights-on and 1 hours lights-off".

The lights are 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over the 2 plants.



Growth Stage:

Cream Caramel CBD # 1 ... Day 3/ Week 6 ... Day 38 ... week 3 flower.
Red Mandarin # 1 ... Day 3/ Week 6 ... Day 38 ... week 3 flower.

*** Should get pistels between August 15, 2019 and August 22, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 04, 2019.
*** Should be ready for harvest between September 25, 2019 and October 02, 2019.

*** Photoperiod Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 2-8 weeks veg, 6-12 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Allow 1 day to 3 days of dark before switching to 12-12
*** Pistels show up about 14 days (2 weeks) after switching to 12-12


Dark Devil # 2: Day 3/ Week 4 ... Day 24 ... week 3 veg.
Killer Kush #1: Day 3/ Week 4 ... Day 24 ... week 3 veg.
Green Poison XL # 1: Day 3/ Week 4 ... Day 24 ... week 3 veg.

*** Should get pistels around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.


Dark Devil # 3: Day 3/ Week 2 ... Day 10 ... week 1 veg.

*** Should get pistels around September 11, 2019.
*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.

*** Autoflower Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 3 weeks veg, 3 weeks pre-flower, 3-6 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Pistels show up about 35 days (5 weeks) after Germination
*** Flowering takes about 56 days (8 weeks) after pistels show up



Watering and Feeding:


Cream Caramel CBD's & Red Mandarin's Regular Feed:

*** Next feed ... 1.5 litres (0.4 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 5 - CGRSFS, CS, BPSS, BTTE around August 18, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.


Dark Devil # 2, Killer Kush & Green Poison XL Regular Feed:

*** Next feed ... about 1.0 litre (0.26 gallons)- Full Dose - Week 3 - CGRSFS, CS, BPSS, BTTE around August 18, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



Dark Devil # 3:

*** Next feed ... about 0.5 litres (0.13 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 1 - CGRSFS, CS, BPSS, BTTE around August 18, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



*** I will do a regular feed(CGRSFS, RME)/feed(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE)/water cycle for all regular weeks.
*** I will do full-on bloom feeds(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE) for the last two weeks prior to harvest.

*** For details on my feeding schedule refer to here: The Different Feeds I need For This Grow (Version 2)



Activities:

My priority is to expose the growth nodes to light and air because they are going to become colas.

*** Turned off the humidifier.


Notes:

Letting the soil dry out between watering and feeds so the tap root can hit the water table at the bottom of the pot, and to prevent over watering.

*** I am looking forward to doing LUX and VPD analysis soon.


Lessons Learned:

Maximum Yield With Autoflowering Marijuana

By RoyalQueenSeeds

TAKE AUTO YIELDS TO THE LIMIT

Autoflowering cannabis strains have finally earned the respect they deserve. More importantly, they have earned a place in your marijuana grow op. With our 10 steps to maximum yield, you will crop the heaviest harvest possible from autos. As usual with cannabis ruderalis hybrids time is of the essence, so let’s get right to it.

1) CHOOSE HIGH QUALITY AND HIGH YIELD AUTOFLOWERING STRAINS


0_image-critical-auto-large.jpg


The potency of contemporary autoflowering varieties has dramatically improved in recent years. In fact, many of the latest generation autos will have comparable cannabinoid levels to traditional photoperiod versions. However, not all autos are created equal and many of our competitor’s autos still produce modest bud yields.

We recommend our proven highly potent and heavy yielding auto strains. For those looking for the bulkiest of harvests, you cannot beat Royal Critical Auto. Just like her photoperiod counterpart Critical, this auto will pack on enormous bud mass during bloom. Plus she will only take 9 weeks post germination to make it to an impressive harvest. This is the definition of high grade in a hurry.

2) START AUTOS IN FINAL CONTAINERS


0_9-myths-transplanting-large.jpg


Photoperiod cannabis strains can essentially be kept in the vegetative growth stage indefinitely. In contrast, autoflowering cannabis will race from seedling to stash somewhere between 60-90 days typically. Speed is an attribute. But the grower must keep pace with the rapid development of autos.

There is no time for transplants and certainly no time for stress if you desire the max yield from your autos. The best advice is to sow seedlings directly into final containers. Alternatively, germinate auto seeds first using the paper towel method or whatever your preferred method. Then put them straight into large pots. A healthy root zone must be cultivated early

3) START SEEDLINGS INDOORS

Whether you are planning an indoor or an outdoor auto grow op, make sure to get your seedlings started indoors. Again, the grower must be conscious of the fact that autos will transition to bloom in about 30 to 40 days post germination.

The grower and the plants are on the clock from day one. Therefore, it is critical to ensure seedlings root well. A cool white CFL or even a sunny windowsill are adequate. Just make sure vegetative growth goes smoothly because ready or not bloom will commence. Remember autoflowering cannabis flowers according to its age rather than a shift to a 12/12 lighting cycle.

4) 18 HOURS OF LIGHT


0_image-lighting-large.jpg


The optimal light-dark cycle for autoflowering cannabis strains is 18/6. This is commonly associated with vegetative growth for photoperiod marijuana. However, for autos to reach their full potential and gain enough size to produce copious quantities of bud they need 18/6 from start to finish.

Autos are the hardiest of all cannabis varieties and sure they can survive in tough conditions and with less light. But we are aiming for a huge harvest and to achieve this objective, autos need as many lumens as possible for 18 hours. More lights, more buds.

Full spectrum LED systems are the perfect choice for indoor grow ops. HID’s are great too, but CFL is really only enough for the short vegetative period. Outdoors autos will thrive in fine summer weather and in warmer regions all the way from Spring to Autumn. Sunlight for 18 hours is not essential because the sun is God’s grow lamp and infinitesimally more powerful than any artificial bulb.

5) WET-DRY CYCLE


0_image-watering-large.jpg


Making sure not to either under or over water your marijuana plants is key to maintaining an effective wet-dry cycle. This becomes especially important with autos due their short crop time. This does not allow for stunted growth to recover nor soggy medium to dry out. You really cannot afford to lose a week to rejuvenate sickly autos.

Pick up pot/containers to evaluate whether they need water based on weight. This is easy to figure out and get into a rhythm. When you add water to the medium the weight increases so light containers will indicate plants need water.

Also, make sure never to leave pots sitting in pools of runoff water. It is an open invitation for root rot and pathogens. Keep the grow op hygienic. Drain that runoff after feeding.

For those that cannot easily pick up plant pots invest in a water meter or monitor device. This inexpensive piece of grow kit can be invaluable to the novice hydroponics cannabis cultivator. Water meters take out the guess work.

6) DIAL IN NUTRIENTS

Obviously, the best choice of fertilisers for autoflowering strains is the new lines of auto-specific nutrients. These products are pretty new on the scene. Most growers are unfamiliar with them but hydroponics and coco growers should definitely check them out.

Auto’s can be tricky to get feeding dialled in with conventional hydroponics nutes. But they can work. So long as you very carefully micro-dose. Autos are far less nutrient thirsty than heavy indica photoperiod cannabis. Think mini sativa when feeding an auto.

Soil growers are advised to use lightly fertilised soil to cultivate autoflowering cannabis. Heavily fertilised soils will burn these babies. Aside from supplements like enzymes, vitamin B and beneficial fungi autos don’t really require large doses of base nutes during the short vegetative stage.

If you must add some nutes early to soil, do so sparingly. Generally, bloom nutrients and boosters are all that’s required. Again even in flowering low to medium doses of nutrients and supplements will suffice. Over-fertilising plants is the most common yield stealing error growers make with autos.

7) SKIP THE PRUNING FOR YIELD TECHNIQUES
To prune or not to prune? Many growers are now dabbling with pruning and training autoflowering cannabis strains for high yield. We are not saying that it’s not possible to pull off a huge auto harvest using these methods. Rather, it’s a high-risk strategy to achieve a high yield.

Topping and bending autos with LST can be a real disaster and an auto ScrOG is tricky. Autoflowering plants rush into bloom so quickly that they don’t stay bendy for long. It’s too easy to snap off branches.

A ScrOG will need to be an ultra low profile and it can be difficult to work with. An auto ScrOG probably will not fill up as you hope, like photoperiod strains would. Plus sometimes topping auto’s leads to the development of two wispy colas if the plant can’t recover quick enough.

We prefer to skip the pruning and stick with proven low maintenance maximum yield methods.

8) SEA OF GREEN (SOG)

The Sea Of Green or SOG method is devastatingly effective when combined with autos. That trademark rapid, vigorous growth and comparatively short stature of autos makes them ideally suited for the SOG method. No pruning is needed and that suits autoflowering cannabis too. This cultivation method is the best way to utilise the fast flowering nature of autos. And harness it for maximum yield.

9) DOUBLE DOWN

In the time it takes to grow a photoperiod cannabis strain from seed to weed you could crop two batches of autos. Even fast flowering photoperiod hybrids need 8 weeks to bloom. Most photoperiod strains will take 90-120 total to pull down a harvest.

In 120 days you could definitely complete two consecutive cannabis harvests of autos. Think about it, if you can cultivate two auto crops in that time frame and grow SOG style, it’s a no-brainer to double down.

10) DONT FORGET TO FLUSH

After 2-3 months of max yield autoflower cultivation, don’t spoil that heavy harvest with absent-mindedness. Always reserve at least the final week of the bloom phase to flush cannabis plants.


Autos might be relatively light feeding and perhaps you didn’t use too many fertilisers. But you invariably used some and they could ruin the buds flavour if you don’t flush. Use pure water or a light flushing solution. This final step will pay dividends when it’s time to smoke that fat auto-weed stash.



ToDo:

Learn more about ... How Many Plants To Grow Per Square Meter.

Learn more about LUX and PAR.

Learn more about Temperature/Relative Humidity and Vapor Pressure Deficit.
 
August 18 2019 - Update

Sweet Seeds - Gardens Of The Galaxy Grow


Images:


IMG_20190818_185947_starlord.jpg

Cream Caramel CBD #1 - Star-Lord - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190818_190103_drax.jpg

Red Mandarine F1 Fast #1 - Drax the Destroyer - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190818_191421_babygroot.jpg

Dark Devil #2 - Baby Groot - Fell down - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 2.


IMG_20190818_191722_rocket.jpg

Killer Kush #1 - Rocket - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 3 - kept the fan leaves this time.


IMG_20190818_191837_gamora.jpg

Green Poison XL #1 - Gamora - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 4 - kept the fan leaves this time.!


IMG_20190818_191612_thanos.jpg

Dark Devil #3 - Thanos - Looks healthy so far.



Environment #1 - Autoflower Veg/Flower:

*** The Inkbird IBS-TH1 I ordered got here, so I will start tracking RH, canopy temperature and VPD again.

*** Environment # 1 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 2.

*** I am running the exhaust fan 24-0 to prevent a rise in RH and to prevent smells in the house.

*** The humidifier turned off.

*** I may not need the Temperature Controller anymore.

*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)

CO2 is refreshed frequently when the exhaust fan turns on.

The light is running 4 cycles of "5 hours lights-on and 1 hours lights-off".

The lights are 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over the 2 plants.



Growth Stage:

Cream Caramel CBD # 1 ... Day 4/ Week 6 ... Day 39 ... week 3 flower.
Red Mandarin # 1 ... Day 4/ Week 6 ... Day 39 ... week 3 flower.

*** Should get pistels between August 15, 2019 and August 22, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 04, 2019.
*** Should be ready for harvest between September 25, 2019 and October 02, 2019.

*** Photoperiod Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 2-8 weeks veg, 6-12 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Allow 1 day to 3 days of dark before switching to 12-12
*** Pistels show up about 14 days (2 weeks) after switching to 12-12


Dark Devil # 2: Day 4/ Week 4 ... Day 25 ... week 3 veg.
Killer Kush #1: Day 4/ Week 4 ... Day 25 ... week 3 veg.
Green Poison XL # 1: Day 4/ Week 4 ... Day 25 ... week 3 veg.

*** Should get pistels around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.


Dark Devil # 3: Day 4/ Week 2 ... Day 11 ... week 1 veg.

*** Should get pistels around September 11, 2019.
*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.

*** Autoflower Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 3 weeks veg, 3 weeks pre-flower, 3-6 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Pistels show up about 35 days (5 weeks) after Germination
*** Flowering takes about 56 days (8 weeks) after pistels show up



Watering and Feeding:


Cream Caramel CBD's & Red Mandarin's Regular Feed:

*** Next regular feed ... 1.5 litres (0.4 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 5 - CGRSFS, CS, BPSS, BTTE around August 19, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.


Dark Devil # 2, Killer Kush & Green Poison XL Regular Feed:

*** Next regular feed ... 1.0 litre (0.26 gallons)- Full Dose - Week 3 - CGRSFS, CS, BPSS, BTTE around August 19, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



Dark Devil # 3:

*** Next regular feed ... 0.5 litres (0.13 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 1 - CGRSFS, CS, BPSS, BTTE around August 19, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



*** I will do a regular feed(CGRSFS, RME)/feed(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE)/water cycle for all regular weeks.
*** I will do full-on bloom feeds(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE) for the last two weeks prior to harvest.

*** For details on my feeding schedule refer to here: The Different Feeds I need For This Grow (Version 2)



Activities:

My priority is to expose the growth nodes to light and air because they are going to become colas.




Notes:

Letting the soil dry out between watering and feeds so the tap root can hit the water table at the bottom of the pot, and to prevent over watering.

*** The humidifier is turned off.

*** I am looking forward to doing LUX and VPD analysis soon.


Lessons Learned:

How Many Plants To Grow Per Square Meter

By RoyalQueenSeeds

Congratulations on committing to cannabis cultivation. Now you need to settle upon the right number of cannabis plants to grow. We’ve got practical advice you can use whether you plan on growing just one plant, or as many as you possibly can fit in the grow space.

HOW MANY PLANTS CAN I GROW PER SQUARE METER?

Before you get your grow on, you need to have a plan and a timetable. First, you need to establish the size of the available grow space. Grow tents come with exact dimensions on the box. However, if you are building your own grow box, or converting a whole room into a grow-op, you need to first take measurements. Next, you must decide how much light you can put down while still maintaining optimal environmental conditions. We will breakdown the key factors to consider when choosing grow lights a little later.


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Perhaps the most important question the grower needs to ask him/herself is; how much time can I commit to cannabis cultivation? Work, family, and social commitments can make growing a difficult balancing act. A large sativa plantation will be far more time-consuming to maintain than a couple of autoflowering plants in a wardrobe.

The genetics you choose and your preferred grow style will ultimately determine how long it takes to bring your crop to harvest. Precisely how many plants to grow is a personal choice. But the following will help you discover your indoor marijuana magic number.


0_Inner-Plants_1.jpg


HOW MUCH LIGHT DOES MY GROW-OP NEED?

It’s not as simple as purchasing as many of the most powerful grow lamps you can get your hands on. Every grow space is different. But two factors always need to be tightly controlled and constantly monitored. Temperature and relative humidity (RH) are the key environmental conditions the indoor grower regulates. You need the right tools. Invest in intake fans, extractor fans, and if available, air-con or heating.

HID - HIGH INTENSITY DISCHARGE

HID lamps are a great source of illumination for the grow room and still favoured by most professionals. Unfortunately, MH and HPS lamps run hot and will significantly increase your power bills, too. One 400-600W bulb per m² is a good rule of thumb. Although, you may need to scale down to a 250W bulb. Consider improving side reflection with Mylar sheeting if you can’t keep temperature and RH dialled-in. Using high-powered old-school lighting necessitates the use of more powerful fans and possibly air-con, or else the grow-op may run too hot.

LED - LIGHT EMITTING DIODE

Modern LED grow lights run much cooler and more efficiently than HID. The main drawback with next-gen LED is the substantial investment required for a decent high-quality kit. Over the long-term, you can recoup with the savings you make on the power bill. Choose your LED kit carefully as not all LED’s are created equal. At present, 3W diodes and COB appear to be the most promising technologies. Less heat and more usable light per watt can also save you some money when it comes to selecting fans to regulate airflow.

CFL - COMPACT FLUORESCENT LIGHT

CFL can only take you so far. Sure, they are economic and efficient, but only to a point. In this writer’s opinion, cool white CFL is fine for vegetative growth and rooting clones, but nothing more. Using CFL’s alone for the bloom phase is not recommended. However, adding CFL as a supplement to HPS during bloom can be a winning combination.

HIGH VOLUME CULTIVATION: (SOG) SEA OF GREEN

The sea of green method (as the name implies) is all about packing all of the available floor space in the grow-op with plants. Typically, photoperiod clones or autoflowering strains are used to achieve a consistent, controlled outcome. This technique is fast and very high-yielding. Rooted cuttings get from 1-2 weeks of vegetative growth before the switch to standard 12/12 flowering of 8-10 weeks. On the other hand, autos can be kept on a consistent 18/6, 20/4, or 24/0 schedule and be ready for harvest in 8-10 weeks from seed. There is no time for pruning or training, nor is it needed.

As plants are not given time to branch out, many short plants with chunky main colas are the objective. Approximately 4-16 plants per m² can be cultivated under 400W HPS, sown in 5-12l containers. Watering by hand can be very time-consuming with such large numbers. Many growers prefer hydroponics kits with automated feeding systems when cultivating many plants. A well-run SOG grow-op can deliver 4-6 500g/m² harvests per year.

PRUNING AND TRAINING FOR MAX YIELD

If you want to keep the number of cannabis plants to a minimum and still get maximum yield from your grow space, then you need to apply yield-boosting techniques. You have two choices; pruning and training. Of course, you can do both. In fact, we highly recommend combining methods for best results.

TOPPING & FIMMING

The most common pruning-for-yield methods are topping and fimming. By pruning the main stem and breaking the apical dominance, bigger yields can be achieved. This is done either with a clean cut by “topping,” or a pinch leaving 25% of the main tip via the “fimming” method. Plants will bush out and develop multiple main colas instead of just one. Both methods can be applied repeatedly depending on how much lateral space you wish to fill.

Remember, each time you prune marijuana, you must allow recovery time. The cost of these pruning-for-yield methods is indeed time itself. Expect an extended vegetative growth cycle. 6-8 weeks will be required for two well-pruned bushes to fill out 1m².


0_Inner-TopFimENG.jpg


LST - LOW STRESS TRAINING

LST or low stress training is a beginner-friendly training technique that, like the two aforementioned pruning methods, works well with a ScrOG or screen of green technique. By bending or tying stems during vegetative growth, the grower can manipulate the plant to grow more like a bush. 2-4 plants can effectively fill 1m². Recovery time is just a few days and this method even works with autoflowering strains.

SCROG - SCREEN OF GREEN

Experienced growers that have mastered one or more of the above techniques can further increase the yield of any grow space by combining pruning and training with a ScrOG. Weaving shoots through a screen from vegetative growth to week 3 of bloom is the professional way to utilise grow space where it counts most. Keeping exclusively main colas directly under the sweet-spot of your light is what ScrOG is all about.

All growth below the screen is pruned away to focus plant energy on bud production. 8 weeks or more of vegetative growth and daily maintenance are required, but even an individual plant can produce a scale-tipping harvest to match a SOG in an organised, cola-packed ScrOG.


0_Inner-SCROG.jpg



ToDo:

Learn more about ... How To Perform The Main-lining Technique.

Learn more about LUX and PAR.

Learn more about Temperature/Relative Humidity and Vapor Pressure Deficit.
 
August 19 2019 - Update

Sweet Seeds - Gardens Of The Galaxy Grow


Images:


IMG_20190819_200552_starlord.jpg

Cream Caramel CBD #1 - Star-Lord - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190819_200828_drax.jpg

Red Mandarine F1 Fast #1 - Drax the Destroyer - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190819_201019_babygroot.jpg

Dark Devil #2 - Baby Groot - Fell down - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 2.


IMG_20190819_201244_rocket.jpg

Killer Kush #1 - Rocket - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 3 - kept the fan leaves this time.


IMG_20190819_201326_gamora.jpg

Green Poison XL #1 - Gamora - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 4 - kept the fan leaves this time.!


IMG_20190819_201152_thanos.jpg

Dark Devil #3 - Thanos - Looks healthy so far.


0_marijuana-seeds-positioning-in-soil.gif


Dark Devil #4 - Yondu - Image Unavailable - Seed is germinating in the soil.



Environment #1 - Autoflower Veg/Flower:

*** The Inkbird IBS-TH1 I ordered got here, so I will start tracking RH, canopy temperature and VPD again.

*** I was looking at the temperature and humidity graphs, and I noticed that the RH was going up to 70% when the lights went out and the temperature dropped down to 22°C (71°F) .

*** Environment # 1 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 2.

*** I am running the exhaust fan 24-0 to prevent a rise in RH and to prevent smells in the house.

*** The humidifier is turned off.

*** I decided to invest in a dehumidifier to see if I could stabilize the humidity in the tent.

*** I may not need the Temperature Controller anymore.


*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)

CO2 is refreshed frequently when the exhaust fan turns on.

The two X6 lights are running 4 cycles of "5 hours lights-on and 1 hours lights-off".

*** I may need to try one cycle of "20 hours lights-on and 4 hours lights-off" again to prevent humidity spikes.

The two X6 lights are 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over the 2 plants.

The two X6 lights give off quite a bit of heat.

*** The temperature is running around 31°C (88°F) with the two X6 lights on and the dehumidifier on.

*** When the dehumidifier is set to "comfort", which should keep the RH between 45% and 55%, it actually kept the RH at 40%.

*** VPD was about 2.20 - Danger Zone: Over / Under Transpiration - lights-on.

*** I set the dehumidifier to "manual" ... RH 55% ... to see what happens.



Growth Stage:

Cream Caramel CBD # 1 ... Day 5/ Week 6 ... Day 40 ... week 3 flower.
Red Mandarin # 1 ... Day 5/ Week 6 ... Day 40 ... week 3 flower.

*** Should get pistels between August 15, 2019 and August 22, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 04, 2019.
*** Should be ready for harvest between September 25, 2019 and October 02, 2019.

*** Photoperiod Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 2-8 weeks veg, 6-12 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Allow 1 day to 3 days of dark before switching to 12-12
*** Pistels show up about 14 days (2 weeks) after switching to 12-12



Dark Devil # 2: Day 5/ Week 4 ... Day 26 ... week 3 veg.
Killer Kush #1: Day 5/ Week 4 ... Day 26 ... week 3 veg.
Green Poison XL # 1: Day 5/ Week 4 ... Day 26 ... week 3 veg.

*** Should get pistels around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.


Dark Devil # 3: Day 5/ Week 2 ... Day 12 ... week 1 veg.

*** Should get pistels around September 11, 2019.
*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.


Dark Devil # 4: Day 2/ Week 0 ... Day 0 ... germination in soil.

*** The seed did not crack open after 24 hours soaking in water, so I cracked it with a spoon to help it germinate.
*** I hope I didn't kill it.


*** Should get pistels around October 02, 2019.

*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.


*** Autoflower Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 3 weeks veg, 3 weeks pre-flower, 3-6 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Pistels show up about 35 days (5 weeks) after Germination
*** Flowering takes about 56 days (8 weeks) after pistels show up



Watering and Feeding:


Cream Caramel CBD's & Red Mandarin's Regular Feed:

*** Next regular feed ... 1.5 litres (0.4 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 5 - CGRSFS, CS, BPSS, BTTE around August 20, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.


Dark Devil # 2, Killer Kush & Green Poison XL Regular Feed:

*** Next regular feed ... 1.0 litre (0.26 gallons)- Full Dose - Week 3 - CGRSFS, CS, BPSS, BTTE around August 20, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



Dark Devil # 3:

*** Next regular feed ... 0.5 litres (0.13 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 1 - CGRSFS, CS, BPSS, BTTE around August 20, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.




*** I will do a regular feed(CGRSFS, RME)/feed(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE)/water cycle for all regular weeks.
*** I will do full-on bloom feeds(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE) for the last two weeks prior to harvest.

*** For details on my feeding schedule refer to here: The Different Feeds I need For This Grow (Version 2)



Activities:

My priority is to expose the growth nodes to light and air because they are going to become colas.




Notes:

Letting the soil dry out between watering and feeds so the tap root can hit the water table at the bottom of the pot, and to prevent over watering.

*** The humidifier is turned off.

*** I started looking at VPD again for Environment #1 and got a dehumidifier to see if that helps.

*** I am looking forward to starting my LUX analysis soon.


Lessons Learned:

How To Perform The Main-lining Technique

By RoyalQueenSeeds

Learn the main-lining training method to drastically increase your yields. It is surprisingly simple and incredibly effective. Best of all? You won't need to buy anything fancy.

Main-lining is a training technique that has gained lots of popularity in recent years. It sometimes also goes by the name “manifolding” or even “fluxing.” The ultimate goal, like with other techniques, is to train your plant into making better use of the grow space, coaxing it into producing higher yields.

When properly executed, main-lining will permit you to grow indoors just like you would with a ScrOG net, only without the net. This is a blessing in tight grow spaces.

In practical terms, main-lining is a mix between LST, topping and a ScrOG net.

The idea behind this training technique is quite ingenious and offers many benefits to the growth pattern and vigor of your plants. The process involves training your seedling into producing a stem that looks like a manifold with a main Y-shaped split; subsequently, you replicate this process on newer growths during the vegetative period. This results in doubling the number of main colas. Theoretically, you can keep doubling these colas for as long as you like, producing as many as 4, 8, 16, 32...


0_Sumetrix2.jpg


SYMMETRY IS KING

The other benefit of main-lining is controlling apical dominance. In the same way that you can be right or left handed, plants tend to favor the point closer to the light source and invest growth in that shoot. This involves a tight hormonal balance within the plant’s physiology that you can easily manipulate with just a bit of string or wire.

If you see that one shoot is growing at faster rate than the others, instead of topping it to slow it down, you can simply tie it below the height of the next best shoot and the plant will redirect its energy to the secondary main shoot. Keep doing this to create an even canopy.

In this way, you can effectively trick the plant into balancing its energy between the main shoots, producing a beautiful and robust bush.

We suggest starting from seed because one of the key components to a successful main-line is symmetrical, opposite branch-node growth. As plants reach sexual maturity, they may start alternating branch-nodes. It is very common for clones to start alternating quickly after rooting. If your goal is to achieve top performance from main-lining, definitely start from seed.


0_Inner-Main-Lining-2.jpg


CREATING THE MANIFOLD

Main-lining is all about symmetry. Starting from seed, you should top the plant after the third internode. This will create a Y-shaped stem right off the bat. Give it a few days to recover, then gently remove all the foliage below.

You will now have two main shoots. Tie them down, gently. Remember, it is all too easy to snap a branch off, so exercise caution. Massage the stem to loosen it up a bit and go slow. Try to bring the two stems down in such a way that it grows out horizontally.

After a short period of growth, you can repeat the process. This will render you with 4 main stems. If you wanted, you could keep going to produce 16, 32 or 64 main colas! But that is not practical at all and will only increase your veg time to a point that it is simply not worth it. Ideally, you should stop topping altogether around week 3.

From here on, there is not much else to do, except for the usual plant tending practices. You will immediately notice how much less work you need to do.


0_Under.jpg


THAT’S ALL, FOLKS

There is nothing more to it, really. Flip them to flower and prepared to be amazed.

The main advantage of this technique is that all the stress is applied very early on in the plant’s life cycle. From here on, you just sit back and relax. When the flowering stretch occurs, there is no longer a need for added stress, such as bending, topping or super-cropping. While these techniques do have their merits, they considerably increase the ripening and harvest times, suddenly forcing the plant to re-program itself and direct energy to other branches.

You will notice with main-lining that you make better use of your lights as canopy distribution is much more even. It is also far less likely that your plants will experience bud rot since this method promotes more efficient airflow.

The occurrence of “popcorn” buds is astonishingly reduced as well. As the early flowering stretch happens, there are no lower branches desperate for light. This means no more of those pesky, long branches that seem to promise a few extra grams, but are just a waste of water, nutrients and light. All that energy will be better concentrated on the stars of the show, the main fat colas and large dense buds surrounding them.

NO NET NEEDED

As mentioned earlier, with main-lining there is no need for a ScrOG net. With this training technique, plants suffer quite a bit early on, tending to overcompensate by engorging the main stems massively. The thicker stems, along with the tie-down training, will make plants look like heavyweight lifting champions. A ScrOG net is used to open up the canopy and serve as support, but it is normal for tops to simply fall over.

With main-lining, this tends not to happen. Branches are not bent over to open up the plant, but shoot straight up and become perfectly balanced. This is a huge plus in the grow room. Now you can walk freely around pots to tend to your plants, without being on all fours and complaining about your back shortly after.


0_Ropes.jpg


HARVESTING

Last but not least, the joy of harvest. Plants that undergo main-lining become surprisingly easy to trim. The big colas and huge buds will be so dense that a quick snip around the edges will leave you with a top-shelf-worthy manicure. Long gone are the days of frustratingly snipping away leaves to make the best use of all produce. With main-lining, some growers report cutting down trimming time by whopping 75% with some strains.


If it sounds too fantastical to you, it’s because you haven't tried it. It is probably one of the easiest techs in the business and one of the older underground grower's secrets. Just remember the two key points. Use quality seeds and keep the symmetry. You will be astonished by the results.




ToDo:

Learn more about ... What To Do When Your Homegrown Cannabis Won’t Flower.

Learn more about LUX and PAR.

Learn more about Temperature/Relative Humidity and Vapor Pressure Deficit.
 
August 20 2019 - Update

Sweet Seeds - Gardens Of The Galaxy Grow


Images:


IMG_20190820_145334_starlord.jpg

Cream Caramel CBD #1 - Star-Lord - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190820_145419_drax.jpg

Red Mandarine F1 Fast #1 - Drax the Destroyer - Looks healthy so far.


IMG_20190820_155721_babygroot.jpg

Dark Devil #2 - Baby Groot - Fell down - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 2.


IMG_20190820_155951_rocket.jpg

Killer Kush #1 - Rocket - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 3 - kept the fan leaves this time.


IMG_20190820_160036_gamora.jpg

Green Poison XL #1 - Gamora - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 4 - kept the fan leaves this time.!


IMG_20190820_155903_thanos.jpg

Dark Devil #3 - Thanos - Looks healthy so far - topped at node 3.



0_marijuana-seeds-positioning-in-soil.gif

Dark Devil #4 - Yondu - Image Unavailable - Seed is germinating in the soil.



Environment #1 - Autoflower Veg/Flower:

I am tracking the RH, canopy temperature and VPD with the Inkbird IBS-TH1.

Environment # 1 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 2.

The exhaust fan is running 24-0 to prevent a rise in temperature, RH and to prevent smells in the house.

The humidifier is turned off.

The dehumidifier is set to RH 55% to prevent RH spikes when the temperature drops.

The two X6 lights are running 4 cycles of "5 hours lights-on and 1 hours lights-off".

The two X6 lights are 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over the 2 flowering plants.

The two X6 lights give off quite a bit of heat.

CO2 is refreshed frequently because the exhaust fan and the oscillating fan are always on.


*** The room temperature is running around 26°C (79°F) and RH 43%.

*** The environment humidity is running steady around RH 40% with lights-on.
*** The environment humidity peaks up to RH 55% with lights-off.

*** The environment temperature is running around 31°C (88°F) with lights-on.
*** The environment temperature dips down to 22°C (72°F) with lights-off.

*** VPD is running steady about 2.19 - Danger Zone: Over / Under Transpiration - lights-on.
*** VPD is running steady about 0.89 - Healthy Transpiration: Late Veg / Early Flower - lights-off.

*** I will try to control the RH to get the VPD dialed-in.


*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)


Growth Stage:

Cream Caramel CBD # 1 ... Day 6/ Week 6 ... Day 41 ... week 3 flower.
Red Mandarin # 1 ... Day 6/ Week 6 ... Day 41 ... week 3 flower.

*** They got their pistels on August 20, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 04, 2019.
*** Should be ready for harvest between September 25, 2019 and October 02, 2019.

*** Photoperiod Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 2-8 weeks veg, 6-12 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Allow 1 day to 3 days of dark before switching to 12-12
*** Pistels show up about 14 days (2 weeks) after switching to 12-12



Dark Devil # 2: Day 6/ Week 4 ... Day 27 ... week 3 veg.
Killer Kush #1: Day 6/ Week 4 ... Day 27 ... week 3 veg.
Green Poison XL # 1: Day 6/ Week 4 ... Day 27 ... week 3 veg.

*** Should get pistels around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.


Dark Devil # 3: Day 6/ Week 2 ... Day 13 ... week 1 veg.

*** Should get pistels around September 11, 2019.
*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.


Dark Devil # 4: Day 2/ Week 0 ... Day 0 ... germination in soil.

*** The seed did not crack open after 24 hours soaking in water, so I cracked it with a spoon to help it germinate.
*** I hope I didn't kill it.


*** Should get pistels around October 02, 2019.

*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.


*** Autoflower Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 3 weeks veg, 3 weeks pre-flower, 3-6 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Pistels show up about 35 days (5 weeks) after Germination
*** Flowering takes about 56 days (8 weeks) after pistels show up



Watering and Feeding:


Cream Caramel CBD's & Red Mandarin's Regular Feed:

pH: 6.62
ppm: 2017

1.5 litres (0.4 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 5 - CGRSFS, CS, BPSS, BTTE


Cream Caramel CBD's & Red Mandarin's Regular Feed:

*** Next regular feed ... 1.5 litres (0.40 gallons) - pH 6.3 water - around August 24, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.


Dark Devil # 2, Killer Kush & Green Poison XL Regular Feed:

pH: 6.68
ppm: 2016

1.0 litres (0.26 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 3 - CGRSFS, CS, BPSS, BTTE


Dark Devil # 2, Killer Kush & Green Poison XL Regular Feed:

*** Next regular feed ... 1.0 litre (0.26 gallons) - pH 6.3 water - around August 24, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



Dark Devil # 3:

pH: 6.66
ppm: 807

0.5 litres (0.13 gallons) - Full Dose - Week 1 - CGRSFS, CS, BPSS, BTTE


Dark Devil # 3:

*** Next regular feed ... 0.5 litres (0.13 gallons) - pH 6.3 water - around August 24, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



*** I will do a regular feed(CGRSFS, RME)/feed(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE)/water cycle for all regular weeks.
*** I will do full-on bloom feeds(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE) for the last two weeks prior to harvest.

*** For details on my feeding schedule refer to here: The Different Feeds I need For This Grow (Version 2)



Activities:

My priority is to expose the growth nodes to light and air because they are going to become colas.

I topped the Dark Devil # 2, Killer Kush & Green Poison XL at node #3 on the quadline lines.


Notes:

Letting the soil dry out between watering and feeds so the tap root can hit the water table at the bottom of the pot, and to prevent over watering.

The colas at the ends of the C.R.E.A.M.'s & Cheese's quadline lines are much bigger than the side colas.

I topped the Dark Devil # 2, Killer Kush & Green Poison XL at node #3 on the quadline lines.

I am noticing that the side branches don't grow that well, so I am going to try topping a lot more.

I started looking at VPD again for Environment #1 and will work on RH to get it dialed-in.

I set the humidifier RH to 55%.

I set the dehumidifier RH to 60% to prevent spikes when the temperature drops.

Getting more room temperature air into the tent will help to bring the temperature down.

*** I am looking forward to starting my LUX analysis soon.


Lessons Learned:

How and When to Flush Marijuana Plants

By RoyalQueenSeeds

Flushing the marijuana plants before harvest can make all the difference in the best bud, or horrible hash. This small task is simple and super easy to do. Just add water! Be very careful, as the timing of the flush can play a critical role in this process.

You have finally finished your grow, ending up with a beautiful plant covered in tremendous bud, now dried, cured and ready to go – yet something is not quite right. You can hardly get the stuff to burn, and when you take a hit, it feels like a mule kicked your lungs as you end up coughing for your life! The taste is harsh and disappointing. If this is a situation you have experienced, chances are your plants were not flushed properly before harvest.

This less than pleasant smoke is caused by nutrients and minerals used during growth still be present in the plant, altering the way it burns. Flushing removes these remaining nutrients, improving the quality of the experience. Fortunately, flushing your cannabis is an effortless and easy task, and will have you producing smooth and delightful bud in no time.


0_Cannabis-bud.jpg


THE BEST TIME TO FLUSH YOUR CANNABIS

Flushing is usually commenced two weeks before harvest. If the plant has an eight-week flowering period, the flushing will need to take place six weeks after the start of the flowering stage. It is best to take a close look at the trichomes on your plant to assess when your cannabis is likely to be ready for harvest. If the tiny trichomes are just beginning to turn from clear, to a cloudy and milky colour, this could be a good indication that the plant can begin flushing. It should be timed so that the majority of trichomes will have fully changed to the desired colour for harvest after two weeks – this gets easier with experience, so stick with it!

Flushing can also be a good way to reset the soil while a plant is in the vegetative state. Sometime, growers will accidently overfeed their cannabis, causing the tips of the leaves to begin changing colour and shriveling. This is called “nutrient burn”. Flushing the soil can remove the excess nutrients, helping avert the problem. However, it is a drastic measure at this phase of growth, so be sure that the problem is nutrient burn, and not something else first.


0_inner-flushig.png


HOW TO PROPERLY FLUSH CANNABIS

Flushing your cannabis plants is a straight forward process. Whenever you would normally feed, you flush instead. Untreated tap water is all you need to use for flushing, just be sure to make sure the pH is at a safe level for cannabis. Most well water contains a healthy pH level and will not need treatment, but if it is necessary for you to add treatment to adjust the pH of your flushing water, feel free to do so. The pH adjustments will be the only thing you will need to be concerned about.

Flood the soil with as much fresh water as it can hold. Leave this for a few minutes to allow all of the nutrients to be picked up, then flood the soil again to flush it all away from the plant. If you are indoors using pots, notice the colour of the water that is draining from the bottom of the pot. It will be stained and look dirty. This is where a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter will come in handy. If you were to collect and measure the TDS of the “drained off” water, it would be around the measurement of 1300ppm, which is pretty high. It is important to keep flushing the plant until this number drops to a level of 50ppm, or at least until it is close to matching the TDS of the fresh water that you are using to flush with. The colour of the draining water will lighten up and appear to be cleaner. You want to get as much of the dissolved minerals away from the plant as you can.

THE OUTCOME OF FLUSHING YOUR CANNABIS


After the bud is harvested, take the extra time to cure the bud to its highest potential. A proper cure will cut back even further on that harsh edge, removing aspects like excess chlorophyll. You will be amazed at the difference this small effort can do to your product. All of your hard work will show in that first inhale of that silky smooth smoke that hits the back of your throat as soft as honey. This is nature at its smoothest. You can increase the quality of your cannabis by just adding water!



ToDo:

Learn more about ... What To Do When Your Homegrown Cannabis Won’t Flower.

Learn more about LUX and PAR.

Learn more about Temperature/Relative Humidity and Vapor Pressure Deficit.
 
August 21 2019 - Update

Sweet Seeds - Gardens Of The Galaxy Grow


Images:


IMG_20190821_150805_starlord.jpg

Cream Caramel CBD #1 - Star-Lord - Looks healthy so far - budlets are exposed to light and air.



Red Mandarine F
IMG_20190821_150828_drax.jpg
1 Fast #1 - Drax the Destroyer - Looks healthy so far - budlets are exposed to light and air..


IMG_20190821_153741_babygroot.jpg

Dark Devil #2 - Baby Groot - Fell down - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 2.


IMG_20190821_154258_rocket.jpg

Killer Kush #1 - Rocket - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 3 - kept the fan leaves this time.


IMG_20190821_154330_gamora.jpg

Green Poison XL #1 - Gamora - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 4 - kept the fan leaves this time.!


IMG_20190821_153839_thanos.jpg

Dark Devil #3 - Thanos - Looks healthy so far - topped at node 3.


0_marijuana-seeds-positioning-in-soil.gif

Dark Devil #4 - Yondu - Image Unavailable - Seed is germinating in the soil.



Environment #1 - Autoflower Veg/Flower:

I am tracking the RH, canopy temperature and VPD with the Inkbird IBS-TH1.

Environment # 1 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 2.

The exhaust fan is running 24-0 to prevent a rise in temperature, RH and to prevent smells in the house.

The humidifier is set to RH 50%.

The dehumidifier is set to RH 55% to prevent RH spikes when the temperature drops.

I am going to have to play with these numbers to get the environment dialed-in.

The two X6 lights are running 1 cycle of "20 hours lights-on and 4 hours lights-off".

The two X6 lights are 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over the 2 flowering plants.

The two X6 lights give off quite a bit of heat.

CO2 is refreshed frequently because the exhaust fan and the oscillating fan are always on.


*** The room temperature is running around 26°C (79°F) and RH 43%.

*** The environment humidity is running steady around RH 45% with lights-on.
*** The environment humidity peaks up to RH 55% with lights-off.

*** The environment temperature is running steady around 31°C (88°F) with lights-on.
*** The environment temperature dips down to 26°C (79°F) with lights-off.

*** VPD is running steady about 1.88 - Danger Zone: Over / Under Transpiration - lights-on.
*** VPD is peaking at about 1.13 - Healthy Transpiration: Late Veg / Early Flower - lights-off.

*** I will try to control the RH to get the VPD dialed-in.

*** I will also flip the two X6 lights back to 1 cycle of "20 hours lights-on and 4 hours lights-off"

to simplify the environment variables.

*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)


Growth Stage:

Cream Caramel CBD # 1 ... Day 7/ Week 6 ... Day 42 ... week 3 flower.
Red Mandarin # 1 ... Day 7/ Week 6 ... Day 42 ... week 3 flower.

*** They got their pistels on August 20, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 04, 2019.
*** Should be ready for harvest between September 25, 2019 and October 02, 2019.

*** Photoperiod Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 2-8 weeks veg, 6-12 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Allow 1 day to 3 days of dark before switching to 12-12
*** Pistels show up about 14 days (2 weeks) after switching to 12-12



Dark Devil # 2: Day 7/ Week 4 ... Day 28 ... week 3 veg.
Killer Kush #1: Day 7/ Week 4 ... Day 28 ... week 3 veg.
Green Poison XL # 1: Day 7/ Week 4 ... Day 28 ... week 3 veg.

*** Should get pistels around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.


Dark Devil # 3: Day 7/ Week 2 ... Day 14 ... week 1 veg.

*** Should get pistels around September 11, 2019.
*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.


Dark Devil # 4: Day 2/ Week 0 ... Day 0 ... germination in soil.

*** The seed did not crack open after 24 hours soaking in water, so I cracked it with a spoon to help it germinate.
*** I checked and it has a tiny root ... it may live if the root takes hold!
*** I hope I didn't kill it.


*** Should get pistels around October 02, 2019.

*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.


*** Autoflower Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 3 weeks veg, 3 weeks pre-flower, 3-6 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Pistels show up about 35 days (5 weeks) after Germination
*** Flowering takes about 56 days (8 weeks) after pistels show up



Watering and Feeding:


Cream Caramel CBD's & Red Mandarin's Regular Feed:

*** Next regular feed ... 1.5 litres (0.40 gallons) - pH 6.3 water - around August 24, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.


Dark Devil # 2, Killer Kush & Green Poison XL Regular Feed:

*** Next regular feed ... 1.0 litre (0.26 gallons) - pH 6.3 water - around August 24, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



Dark Devil # 3:

*** Next regular feed ... 0.5 litres (0.13 gallons) - pH 6.3 water - around August 24, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



*** I will do a regular feed(CGRSFS, RME)/feed(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE)/water cycle for all regular weeks.
*** I will do full-on bloom feeds(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE) for the last two weeks prior to harvest.

*** For details on my feeding schedule refer to here: The Different Feeds I need For This Grow (Version 2)



Activities:

My priority is to expose the growth nodes to light and air because they are going to become colas.

I topped the Dark Devil # 2, Killer Kush & Green Poison XL at node #3 on the quadline lines.


Notes:

Letting the soil dry out between watering and feeds so the tap root can hit the water table at the bottom of the pot, and to prevent over watering.

The colas at the ends of the C.R.E.A.M.'s & Cheese's quadline lines are much bigger than the side colas.

I am noticing that the side branches don't grow that well, so I am going to try topping a lot more.

I started looking at VPD again for Environment #1 and will work on RH to get it dialed-in.

I set the humidifier RH to 55%.

I set the dehumidifier RH to 60% to prevent spikes when the temperature drops.

Getting more room temperature air into the tent will help to bring the temperature down.

*** I am looking forward to starting my LUX analysis soon.


Lessons Learned:

Indoor Cannabis Growing: Relative Humidity and Temperatures

By RoyalQueenSeeds

The most refined techniques to grow cannabis become irrelevant when relative humidity and temperatures are not being controlled – learn more about these two major factors.

Final results of an indoor grow are greatly influenced by the way growers keep in control of parameters that influence their plants growth. There are two basic factors that can easily be forgotten when we’re busy thinking of other ways to increase yields, size, and overall health of our plants – temperature & relative humidity. This blog summarizes ways to keep both of these factors within an optimum range, and provides specific information what conditions should be maintained to achieve best results.

HOW TEMPERATURES AND HUMIDITY LEVELS INTERACT

It’s important to know that humidity levels and temperatures are closely related to one another. When we talk about humidity, we usually mean relative humidity (RH), which is the ratio of partial pressure of water vapor to the maximum vapor pressure of water at the same temperature. You get the whole idea when knowing the basic principle that warm air holds more water vapor than cold air. This is one of the reasons why it’s necessary to extract a lot of warm air from our grow room, and ideally allow cool air to enter – warm air simply holds too much water vapor in it.

HUMIDITY LEVELS AND TEMPERATURES: FROM SEEDLING TO HARVEST
We need to define what humidity and temperature control actually means when growing cannabis. It makes sense to divide the life of cannabis plants into 4 different stages in which humidity levels, and temperatures, should be adjusted to ensure healthy growth. Don’t think that humidity and temperature control is complicated and not worth it! It’s generally very easy, and more about keeping parameters within a certain range, and as constant as possible.

The first thing you need to do is to buy a hygrometer and thermometer, preferably a digital one with memory function, also showing maximum and minimum values of the past. Some hygrometers aren't the most accurate, so don’t bother having several devices in your grow room to compare values. Now that we’re able to closely monitor our conditions, we can get to the essence of humidity and temperature control – the actual humidity levels and temperatures we aim for.

1. Seedling Stage

  • Seedlings and clones like high humidity levels of 65-70%
  • Reason: The root system is not established
  • High humidity levels allow water intake through leaves
  • Temperatures with lights on: 20-25 C° (lights off: 4-5 C° lower)
0_Inner-Seedling_1.jpg


2. Vegetation Period
  • Humidity levels can be lowered by 5% each week (acceptable range: 40-70%)
  • Temperatures can be increased a little bit (no obligation)
  • Reason: Roots absorb more water; evaporation through leaves cools plant(s)
  • Temperatures with lights on: 22-28 C° (lights off: 4-5 C° lower)
0_Inner-Vegetation.jpg


3. Flowering Period
  • Humidity levels need to be lowered to 40-50% (extremely important)
  • You can get away with 55% (anything over 60% is real bad)
  • It’s best to slightly lower temperatures in flowering
  • Temperatures with lights on: 20-26 C° (avoid high temperatures)
0_Inner-FLowering.jpg


4. Late flowering (1-2 weeks before harvest)
  • The following steps are no necessity, but can improve yield, flavour and appearance
  • Bring down humidity levels as much as you can: 30-40%
  • Lower daytime temperatures, and also increase the temperature difference (day/night)
  • Temperatures with lights on: 18-24 °C (lights off: minus 5-10 C°)
0_Inner-Late-Flow.jpg

*** To be contin ued tomorrow.



ToDo:

Learn more about ... What To Do When Your Homegrown Cannabis Won’t Flower.

Learn more about LUX and PAR.

Learn more about Temperature/Relative Humidity and Vapor Pressure Deficit.
 
August 22 2019 - Update

Sweet Seeds - Gardens Of The Galaxy Grow


Images:


IMG_20190822_233932_starlord.jpg

Cream Caramel CBD #1 - Star-Lord - Looks healthy so far - 8 budlets are exposed to light and air.


IMG_20190822_234011_drax.jpg

Red Mandarine F1 Fast #1 - Drax the Destroyer - Looks healthy so far - 20 budlets are exposed to light and air..


IMG_20190822_235445_babygroot.jpg

Dark Devil #2 - Baby Groot - Fell down - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 2.


IMG_20190822_235336_rocket.jpg

Killer Kush #1 - Rocket - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 3 - kept the fan leaves this time.


IMG_20190822_235406_gamora.jpg

Green Poison XL #1 - Gamora - Looks healthy so far - topped at Node 4 - kept the fan leaves this time.!


IMG_20190822_235520_thanos.jpg

Dark Devil #3 - Thanos - Looks healthy so far - topped at node 3.


0_marijuana-seeds-positioning-in-soil.gif

Dark Devil #4 - Yondu - Image Unavailable - Seed is germinating in the soil.



Environment #1 - Autoflower Veg/Flower:

I am tracking the RH, canopy temperature and VPD with the Inkbird IBS-TH1.

Environment # 1 is mutually exclusive from Environment # 2.

The exhaust fan is running 24-0 to prevent a rise in temperature, RH and to prevent smells in the house.

The humidifier is set to RH 50%.

The dehumidifier is set to RH 55%.

The three X6 lights are running 4 cycles of "5 hours lights-on and 1 hours lights-off".

Two of the X6 lights are 30 cm (12") above the canopy centered over the 2 flowering plants.

The third X6 light is 45 cm (18") above the canopy centered over the vegging plants

The three X6 lights give off 2°C (4°F) of heat each.

CO2 is refreshed frequently because the exhaust fan and the oscillating fan are always on.


*** The room temperature is running around 26°C (79°F) and RH 43%.

*** The environment humidity is running steady around RH 45% with lights-on.
*** The environment humidity peaks up to RH 55% with lights-off.

*** The environment temperature is running steady around 31°C (88°F) with lights-on.
*** The environment temperature dips down to 26°C (79°F) with lights-off.

*** VPD is running steady about 1.88 - Danger Zone: Over / Under Transpiration - lights-on.
*** VPD is peaking at about 1.13 - Healthy Transpiration: Late Veg / Early Flower - lights-off.

*** I will try to control the RH to get the VPD dialed-in.


*** The VPD Values I am Using For This Grow (Version 1)


Growth Stage:

Cream Caramel CBD # 1 ... Day 1/ Week 7 ... Day 43 ... week 4 flower.
Red Mandarin # 1 ... Day 1/ Week 7 ... Day 43 ... week 4 flower.

*** They got their pistels on August 20, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 04, 2019.
*** Should be ready for harvest between September 25, 2019 and October 02, 2019.

*** Photoperiod Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 2-8 weeks veg, 6-12 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Allow 1 day to 3 days of dark before switching to 12-12
*** Pistels show up about 14 days (2 weeks) after switching to 12-12



Dark Devil # 2: Day 1/ Week 5 ... Day 29 ... week 4 veg.
Killer Kush #1: Day 1/ Week 5 ... Day 29 ... week 4 veg.
Green Poison XL # 1: Day 1/ Week 5 ... Day 29 ... week 4 veg.

*** Should get pistels around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.


Dark Devil # 3: Day 1/ Week 3 ... Day 15 ... week 2 veg.

*** Should get pistels around September 11, 2019.
*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.


Dark Devil # 4: Day 1/ Week 0 ... Day 0 ... germination in 24 hour water soak.

*** The seed I cracked with a spoon did not germinate.
*** I put a new seed in to germinate in 24 hour water soak.


*** Should get pistels around October 09, 2019.

*** Should be ready for transplant into 5 gallon pots around August 28, 2019.
*** Should be due for the 4 week regular flush around September 25, 2019.


*** Autoflower Stages: 5 days Germination, 1 week seedling, 3 weeks veg, 3 weeks pre-flower, 3-6 weeks flower, 4-12 weeks cure
*** Pistels show up about 35 days (5 weeks) after Germination
*** Flowering takes about 56 days (8 weeks) after pistels show up



Watering and Feeding:


Cream Caramel CBD's & Red Mandarin's Regular Feed:

*** Next regular feed ... 1.5 litres (0.40 gallons) - pH 6.3 water - around August 24, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.


Dark Devil # 2, Killer Kush & Green Poison XL Regular Feed:

*** Next regular feed ... 1.0 litre (0.26 gallons) - pH 6.3 water - around August 24, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



Dark Devil # 3:

*** Next regular feed ... 0.5 litres (0.13 gallons) - pH 6.3 water - around August 24, 2019.
*** Expecting about 1% of run-off. Stop watering right at run-off.



*** I will do a regular feed(CGRSFS, RME)/feed(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE)/water cycle for all regular weeks.
*** I will do full-on bloom feeds(CGRSFS, BPSS, CS, BTTE) for the last two weeks prior to harvest.

*** For details on my feeding schedule refer to here: The Different Feeds I need For This Grow (Version 2)



Activities:

My priority is to expose the growth nodes to light and air because they are going to become colas.

I pruned the Cream Caramel CBD down to 8 top nodes.

I pruned the Red Mandarin down to 20 top nodes.


Notes:

Letting the soil dry out between watering and feeds so the tap root can hit the water table at the bottom of the pot, and to prevent over watering.

The colas at the ends of the C.R.E.A.M.'s & Cheese's quadline lines are much bigger than the side colas.

I am noticing that the side branches don't grow that well, so I am going to try topping a lot more.

I pruned the Cream Caramel CBD and Red Mandarin to focus all bud growth on the primary colas.

I started looking at VPD again for Environment #1 and will work on RH to get it dialed-in.

I set the humidifier RH to 55%.

I set the dehumidifier RH to 60% to prevent spikes when the temperature drops.

Getting more room temperature air into the tent will help to bring the temperature down.

*** I am looking forward to starting my LUX analysis soon.


Lessons Learned:

Indoor Cannabis Growing: Relative Humidity and Temperatures

By RoyalQueenSeeds

ADJUSTING HUMIDTY LEVELS AND TEMPERATURES

We’ve got a pretty good idea on humidity levels and temperatures we aim for. Now it’s time to get to the practical part, and to find ways to bring things back in balance when they’re not. Most growers will struggle to keep both relative humidity and temperatures down, which is of primary importance in the flowering period – we got that. In some colder regions, and depending on the lighting solution, the opposite scenario might be the case, and temperatures or humidity levels must be raised.

Remember the basic principle that warm hair holds more water than cold air? Keep this in mind, and be aware of the fact that relative humidity and temperatures interact with one another.

A. WAYS TO LOWER HUMIDITY

  • Run you existing tube vent on higher velocities or upgrade (air exits tent AND the room it is placed in!)
  • Increase fresh/cool air supply (e.g. active air intake by 140mm case fans for PC’s)
  • Try to water your plants right after lights are switched on
  • Spend money on a decent sized dehumidifier (the small ones can’t hold enough water)
0_Inner-Watering.jpg


B. WAYS TO LOWER TEMPERATURES
  • Just like lowering humidity: Increase the total airflow in your room by allowing more warm air to be extracted, and more cool air to enter (higher velocities or bigger tube vent)
  • Always have “lights off” during the day, and “lights on” at night
  • When you grow with HPS lights, consider using a cooltube
  • Install an air conditioning unit (AC’s will also lower humidity levels)

C. RAISING HUMIDITY
  • Manually increase humidity levels with a spray bottle (It won’t last long)
  • Keep the surface of the soil moist, but not wet
  • Hang wet towels/cloths in your grow room or put open water containers in it
  • Invest money in a humidifier with a large water tank (small ones demand constant refills)
0_Inner-Humidifier.jpg


D. RAISING TEMPERATURES
  • You can always upgrade to a bigger grow light (more watts = more heat)
  • Place a heating mat at the bottom of your tent or grow room
  • Isolate your grow room with materials from the hardware store
  • Use a simple space heater with a thermostat




ToDo:

Learn more about ... What To Do When Your Homegrown Cannabis Won’t Flower.

Learn more about LUX and PAR.

Learn more about Temperature/Relative Humidity and Vapor Pressure Deficit.
 
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