Yeah iv been looking for the single ph one that you suggest a few days back, I have the
4 in1 thing but I don’t trust it, last one I had it kept giving me all different numbers every time I stuck it in, so I snapped it
I will be looking for just a moisture tester aswell
Ole and I forgot to tell ya, I have one of those temperature testers, the one that does food and water, I tried my soil,
With lights on it was 77
And lights off it was 69, so I didn’t put the heat pads under the pots, but I did put the heat tube in last night to come on after lights out, and gunna be keeping an eye on the temps cos it’s starting to get colder here
69-77 isn't too bad at all. The heat tube will probably be enough. Thats great that you have a temp tester
.
Living soil likes it warmer than what synthetics require, it gets the microbes hopping. If you can warm it a couple more degrees on the night temps your golden.
My guess is your plants are looking hungry mainly because the pots ran out of food and calcium. What you have done, and maintaining it, should turn them around.
Hopefully quick enough to save some leaves.
Both those ingredients you purchased look quite good. Keep using them as per the instructions, and next grow if you follow the instructions for mixing into a pot, and mix it in about 2 weeks before you plant, or if you start with new supersoil then start the top dressing immediately, you should be able to avoid this.
EWC is your best friend in LOS, and you should add it as a top dressing weekly.
On top of being very nutritious, it contains a good amount of bio-available calcium, so replenishing it weekly and watering that calcium in every time you water keeps calcium up top where it can work it's way down.
It can help keep both hunger and calcium issues away. The thing to remember with EWC is that when you spply it and water it in, on it's 1st drydown it will always go crusty. That's not a calcium deficiency, it's just a characteristic of EWC, so every time you go to water the plants, get your fingers in and break that up, then smooth the surface out to ensure that when you water it will seep in evenly.
Fish fertilizers feed the myco directly, and you need your myco to be healthy for good plant health and brix, so you need to work it in regularly. Once a week is best, but thats not always doable when you have to cycle calmag in, but try for at least once every 10 days. It really makes a difference.
Another really good way to avoid deficiency is to recognize early what side branching will become larf at harvest, and prune it out when it is small and first starting to grow. That way the plant doesn't waste food on crappy buds and branches that you don't really want, and it will also focus the growing onto the main colas.
This is where having a worm farm pays off, as you can't wait to cut it off because the worms love it. It makes the brain happier to prune it out.
I store it in ziplock bags in the freezer until the worms need feeding.
If you decide that living soil is the way you want to grow then a worm farm is a great investment. All your weed and your house plants will love it, and everything will work better. It builds really good tilth.