Thanks for all that info @Gee64
And yeah I can see why the worm farms are a good investment, buying it is gunna add up, cheapest one iv found was £15 for ten litres, that’s only gunna do a couple of weeks 🤦🏻‍♂️

I do like the idea of growing in LOS, and i think iv found one that will suit me at a good price, the royal mix is the one I was looking at, here’s the link if you wanna take a look, it’s all naturally fertilised, I think 😂

I did check my soil temp just as lights came on, with the heat tube now in there, the soil was 71, iv turned it up just a tad and will check tomorrow at lights on, and me soil has all gone mouldy, dunno if that’s where I didn’t wash the top dressing right in, cos I didn’t wanna drench them 2 days on the trot, so I don’t know if it’s a bad thing iv done, I will put a pic up 👍

And I managed to brix the other 2, their worse than the others, and I got pics thou 🥳🍾🤣😂 I will put them up
And I think that’s about it, ole the pics, if you put the refractometer on a side somewhere, it’s a lot easier to do what g- one was saying with playing about with the camera, I will put up a pic of how I did it, hope that helps

Thank you for all your time and help Gee, it’s very much appreciated
:thanks: :thumb:

667649A0-CAFE-48DB-AC7B-8730A5E98E38.jpeg


645E68F1-34C6-4B4D-AC28-8D59FC06C976.jpeg


3A79D1FB-C754-454C-9674-0BAC159F7B58.jpeg


F3EEA3E9-7A87-4BBD-BF02-699A5BCB9036.jpeg


CE3DDCDD-A383-4A80-99BA-CD0DA2C6C78D.jpeg
That fuzzy mold is actually myco sprouting. If you add some mulch it will do better in the dark. It's a really good thing Kal👍😊👊.

Those brix lines could be fuzzier but the next calmag will help there, and possibly raise the numbers too.

One thing you should know about brix is that bad weather will drop your brix, and severe storms/low pressure can crash them 5 or 6 points. They will recover quickly when good weather rolls back in.

Also, the difference between lights on and 10 hours into lights on can be as much as 5 or 6 points, so 10 hours after lights on is really the only reading you should use as far as making changes goes.

All other readings aren't true indications, as is bad weather days. 10 hours after lights on with a sunny high pressure ridge is your truest reading.
 
Your not hijacking, this is a discussion room and a photo dump and anything else as long as it's not hard/rude on anyone. A safe space. No trolls allowed.
Yeah @con at some point Gee will say “grab a cup of coffee “ & you’ll realize there ain’t no hijackin’ the G man…:passitleft:
 
That fuzzy mold is actually myco sprouting. If you add some mulch it will do better in the dark. It's a really good thing Kal👍😊👊.

Those brix lines could be fuzzier but the next calmag will help there, and possibly raise the numbers too.

One thing you should know about brix is that bad weather will drop your brix, and severe storms/low pressure can crash them 5 or 6 points. They will recover quickly when good weather rolls back in.

Also, the difference between lights on and 10 hours into lights on can be as much as 5 or 6 points, so 10 hours after lights on is really the only reading you should use as far as making changes goes.

All other readings aren't true indications, as is bad weather days. 10 hours after lights on with a sunny high pressure ridge is your truest reading.
right, got it, I will brix 10 hours after lights go on in future 👍

I have clay pebbles, can they be used as a mulch thing ?
 
right, got it, I will brix 10 hours after lights go on in future 👍

I have clay pebbles, can they be used as a mulch thing ?
Possibly, but really you want something thats carbon, like bark mulch that isn't cedar or walnut. Something that breaks down and adds soil carbon but doesn't block air or water and can be mixed into the soil if you have to till the top inch with your fingers to break up any crusting.
 
I’m gonna post this here if you don’t mind & hopefully I can remember how to put it in my signature…


 
Back
Top Bottom