The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It

[StoneOtter]

too funny. I think I would be pissy if I spent $15-$20 on a seed and the plant only got 2 feet tall. Most auto's seem to be indicas or indica dominants and I am a sativa fan so there's that too.

Mostly tho I like pheno hunting old landrace genetics, so you need to be able to cut clones for that because how landraces feed is all over the map.

Most are light feeders but some pheno's are real pigs, and those piggy ones are usually the good ones, but very rare, so if you don't have a clone you can easily grow them wrong on the 1st grow then miss out.

With auto's it's a one and done thing so if you get a stellar pheno it's gone. I like to grow each pheno 2 or 3 times to find it's potential. Can't do that with auto's.

They do come in some very pretty varieties tho. I was going to grow them for patio show pieces and worm farm food this year but didn't have the time or space to mix up that much soil.

One day.

Hows your outdoor grow coming Bud? It must be getting deep into flower now. How much longer until harvest do you figure?

Auto's are a science in themselves! @Justin Goody does some fine work with them and @Jon has grown some of the biggest and nicest autos I can imagine! Consistent Photo size! Knowing what to pick from whom is half the magic.

 

[Azimuth]

Azi when is this mix scheduled for potting? or is it in use already?

In play already, plant just got flipped. This one has had issues getting over 10 brix, although it should have plenty of Ca. This is the first net pot version and the roots aren't draining the pot as quickly as I'd like so opportunities to add dolo water or whatever are spread out too long so there's not been many opportunities to adjust things.

I think I may have up potted too soon into too wet soil which stalled root development since I was experimenting with the new net pot structure. Still a nice looking plant, but with bugs. I had soaked the medium with a tea, expecting that the lower connector cup would more easily drain the excess water.

I have two more rounds mixed already, one waiting for up pot in another week or so which is the first with prilled dolomite added to see if that makes any difference, and one I mixed yesterday where I discounted the nettle meal's calcium, replacing it with the minerals version.

I'm going to let the transplant get a more robust root system before up potting to see if that makes a difference and, if not, I'll probably have to go to an intermediate step. I like to go directly from 9oz right to the 2gal SIP, but I could make a stop at a 1L intermediate pot to help build better roots in a smaller, more controlled watering environment. I like the ease of going direct to the 2gal, but maybe I'd have better luck with an extra step.

The lower connector pot isn't draining the perched water table like I had hoped it would. It does lower it which is good, but for this third version I'm going to try a reverse wick, using a strip of microfiber cloth at the bottom of the pot and just hanging down below it slightly to try to get the excess water table to drip out. @MedScientist has had good luck with this setup although he's in Turface rather than soil as his medium.

I might even repackage the 2nd pot to accommodate this concept since I haven't up potted yet.

 

[Gee64]

In play already, plant just got flipped. This one has had issues getting over 10 brix, although it should have plenty of Ca. This is the first net pot version and the roots aren't draining the pot as quickly as I'd like so opportunities to add dolo water or whatever are spread out too long so there's not been many opportunities to adjust things.

I think I may have up potted too soon into too wet soil which stalled root development since I was experimenting with the new net pot structure. Still a nice looking plant, but with bugs. I had soaked the medium with a tea, expecting that the lower connector cup would more easily drain the excess water.

I have two more rounds mixed already, one waiting for up pot in another week or so which is the first with prilled dolomite added to see if that makes any difference, and one I mixed yesterday where I discounted the nettle meal's calcium, replacing it with the minerals version.

Sweet! This I want to see

I'm going to let the transplant get a more robust root system before up potting to see if that makes a difference and, if not, I'll probably have to go to an intermediate step. I like to go directly from 9oz right to the 2gal SIP, but I could make a stop at a 1L intermediate pot to help build better roots in a smaller, more controlled watering environment. I like the ease of going direct to the 2gal, but maybe I'd have better luck with an extra step.

Going direct, you need to afford the plant the time it needs to fill out the pot with roots. This will slow vegetative growth alot. It's actually the main reason I go from solos to 10gals. Otherwise sativas just get way too big too fast. But you must be able to control moisture or it doesn't go well. Emilya addresses this in her watering tutorials.

The lower connector pot isn't draining the perched water table like I had hoped it would.

Perched = bad, you don't want water in the roots, only absorbed into the carbon. Otherwise O2 is replaced by water. Perched is for synthetics. They have already been converted to forms assimilated with oxygen. Nitite = 2 O2 atoms, nitrate=3 O2 atoms, that sort of thing. Prepped for hydroponic delivery.

It does lower it which is good, but for this third version I'm going to try a reverse wick, using a strip of microfiber cloth at the bottom of the pot and just hanging down below it slightly to try to get the excess water table to drip out.

Excellent idea!

@MedScientist has had good luck with this setup although he's in Turface rather than soil as his medium.

I might even repackage the 2nd pot to accommodate this concept since I haven't up potted yet.

Sweet! comparisons

It's really hard to replace mineralized calcium with phyto sources. You really need a lot of calcium rich plant matter to equal just a small amount of actual mineral.

Think of your colloidal platters. K is a heavily required nutrient, yet here is a google quote of one of many slightly different takes, but definitely in the correct ballpark. It emphasizes how much Ca is really required. 12x more Ca than K.

"optimum saturation levels of the basic cations for an ideal soil at 65% saturation of Calcium, 10% saturation of magnesium and 5% saturation for Potassium."

Opinions vary inside the ballpark, but you get the picture of how much calcium is really needed by the soil. So if you are using a phyto source, thats a big pile of plant matter. Something to keep in mind is all.

If you use mineralized calcium until you get the machine working then you can start swapping in phyto sources and follow the refractometer for guidance.

Make calcium your last concern to finish the project. It's both the most important and hardest part.

Calmag is the best selling nute for a really good reason. Cut yourself some slack for now.

 

[Gidorah]

Miss Sticky - Day 2 of Flower.

She's really filling the tent. She's so lanky. I may let her have the whole thing and just cut some LC clones for next grow. It would be hard to wedge more plants in here with her. She reminds me of a Cherry Malawi I grew a few years back that filled the whole tent. I'm excited for this one. She's lankier than my regular Durban Poison, but otherwise looks almost identical. She loves Rev's mix

Day 19.

I still never got them planted. Tomorrow for sure for sure. They still look great but that won't last much longer now.

BK. She's starting to stack and frost up. Too bad she started so late.

The 3 RVDV's are in flower for real now, but only maybe 2 weeks in. They are all worm food for sure. What a weird year. Never seen a year when the plants all flowered a month late.

This one is 7' now from the bottom of the pot.

They are beautiful Gee!

 

[Gee64]

They are beautiful Gee!

Thanks G. She is! High hopes for this one. I hope she brixes as high as RV does. She was 18 a few days ago, and PPFD is up to 700, so when she gets to 900 I'll brix her again.

 

[Gee64]

Auto's are a science in themselves! @Justin Goody does some fine work with them and @Jon has grown some of the biggest and nicest autos I can imagine! Consistent Photo size! Knowing what to pick from whom is half the magic.

I have watched Jon closely. His seed choices are definitely complimentary to his style. He does grow them big! I've browsed Justin's stuff too but his location always distracts me from his process

I think if I ever get into autos I will have to study his methods to make my own seeds to mass grow them for awhile to figure them out.

 

[StoneOtter]

I have watched Jon closely. His seed choices are definitely complimentary to his style. He does grow them big! I've browsed Justin's stuff too but his location always distracts me from his process

I think if I ever get into autos I will have to study his methods to make my own seeds to mass grow them for awhile to figure them out.

I've had limited grows with them. They like LOS a lot! If you do I think you'll have fun.

 

[Gee64]

I've had limited grows with them. They like LOS a lot! If you do I think you'll have fun.

Sweet! Good to know. If I do grow them it will likely be an outdoor grow next year. Thanks Stone

 

[Kaldean]

Sweet! Good to know. If I do grow them it will likely be an outdoor grow next year. Thanks Stone

Hi @Gee64
Iv been reading through,bout 90 % I haven’t a clue with lol
Someone told me to grow autos, but not knowing when they flip scares me, I probably won’t have any colas with the topping when they do, so yeah, to scary
iv got a few questions, we’ll loads lol.

Firstly, the swick/wick thing, what’s the difference ? I noticed one of @g-one-three’s pics, he’s pot had 2 ropes wrapped in a x, is that for a fabric pot to sit on, or do they go into the pot and into the soil, cos I’m thinking that the watering is one of my problems

And with the soil, do yous all start with living soil from seeds ? Cos what I’m thinking, do people, or is it possible to start off with organic soil, then transplant a few weeks before the flip into living soil, or will there be no benefit from doing that ?

Also, I have the refractometer, if you don’t mind, could you run me through on how to go about it, I know about the calibrating it with distilled water, but that’s about it don’t know where to take leaves or how many or what time of day, basically, I know nothing

And lastly, I have some pics, I left quite a few leaves on a couple of my younger ladies, hoping that if what happened to my older plants starts happening, it won’t take so much of a toll, maybe just hoping but that my thinking, and it seems that the one with most leaves is being effected most, maybe that’s a clue, and one of them is going purple in the edges, dunno if that’s the strain or cold or what, and before I forget again, my strains are
Keren = 2 plants
Chemdawg and black cherry moonrocks

Ole and I got the mycro stuff, and they also sent me a free gift because if that late delivery, I will put pics of that up too

And thank you and everyone else for all your help

 

[Gidorah]

L

Sweet! Good to know. If I do grow them it will likely be an outdoor grow next year.

Keep us posted, sounds like fun. I'll try one with you and see what happens

 

[Gee64]

Hi @Gee64
Iv been reading through,bout 90 % I haven’t a clue with lol
Someone told me to grow autos, but not knowing when they flip scares me, I probably won’t have any colas with the topping when they do, so yeah, to scary
iv got a few questions, we’ll loads lol.

Firstly, the swick/wick thing, what’s the difference ? I noticed one of @g-one-three’s pics, he’s pot had 2 ropes wrapped in a x, is that for a fabric pot to sit on, or do they go into the pot and into the soil, cos I’m thinking that the watering is one of my problems

It's for both. You can run them thru the holes of a hard pot or set a cloth pot on them.

And with the soil, do yous all start with living soil from seeds ? Cos what I’m thinking, do people, or is it possible to start off with organic soil, then transplant a few weeks before the flip into living soil, or will there be no benefit from doing that ?

As long as your starting soil isn't synthetically fertilized, so organic, you can easily uppot it into living soil. Most organic mixes are innoculated with myco and already contain microbes, so they usually are already living soil. The recipes we use around here are just stronger vesions and EWC and/or teas add even more microbes as well as food. So if you start in organic soil and add some myco you are already in living soil.

Also, I have the refractometer, if you don’t mind, could you run me through on how to go about it, I know about the calibrating it with distilled water, but that’s about it don’t know where to take leaves or how many or what time of day, basically, I know nothing

It's really easy other than getting juice from the leaf. You roll a leaf into a ball and squeeze some juice onto the glass and close the lid, then look at it with some fairly bright light shining thru the lid. Daylight works well.

Getting the juice out is the hard part. I roll it into a ball and then squeeze the ball and roll it back and forth in my finger tips slowly until my fingers become wet and then squeeze a bit out onto the refractometer.

Others put the ball between 2 coins and squish them together with vice grips or channel lock pliers, and some take a hand held garlic press, drop a coin into it, then set the leaf ball on the coin and squish it until juice comes out.

And lastly, I have some pics, I left quite a few leaves on a couple of my younger ladies, hoping that if what happened to my older plants starts happening, it won’t take so much of a toll, maybe just hoping but that my thinking, and it seems that the one with most leaves is being effected most, maybe that’s a clue, and one of them is going purple in the edges, dunno if that’s the strain or cold or what, and before I forget again, my strains are
Keren = 2 plants
Chemdawg and black cherry moonrocks

Ole and I got the mycro stuff, and they also sent me a free gift because if that late delivery, I will put pics of that up too

And thank you and everyone else for all your help

They look healthy but hungry. You should get all these products in as per the instructions as soon as possible, and if you have any EWC add that on top of everything else. Then water it in a bit.

Both of these look really good. I wouldn't hesitate to use them.

After you get the food in try squishing a leaf and let us know how you make out. I'm around all day now, off and on, and others around here use refractometers too, so hit us up right away with anything at all that you aren't sure about, or need help with.

No such thing as a dumb question here, basics are really important and we all started there.

 

[Gee64]

L

Keep us posted, sounds like fun. I'll try one with you and see what happens

Sounds like fun. What could go wrong??!!

 

[Kaldean]

It's for both. You can run them thru the holes of a hard pot or set a cloth pot on them.

As long as your starting soil isn't synthetically fertilized, so organic, you can easily uppot it into living soil. Most organic mixes are innoculated with myco and already contain microbes, so they usually are already living soil. The recipes we use around here are just stronger vesions and EWC and/or teas add even more microbes as well as food. So if you start in organic soil and add some myco you are already in living soil.

It's really easy other than getting juice from the leaf. You roll a leaf into a ball and squeeze some juice onto the glass and close the lid, then look at it with some fairly bright light shining thru the lid. Daylight works well.

Getting the juice out is the hard part. I roll it into a ball and then squeeze the ball and roll it back and forth in my finger tips slowly until my fingers become wet and then squeeze a bit out onto the refractometer.

Others put the ball between 2 coins and squish them together with vice grips or channel lock pliers, and some take a hand held garlic press, drop a coin into it, then set the leaf ball on the coin and squish it until juice comes out.

They look healthy but hungry. You should get all these products in as per the instructions as soon as possible, and if you have any EWC add that on top of everything else. Then water it in a bit.

Both of these look really good. I wouldn't hesitate to use them.

After you get the food in try squishing a leaf and let us know how you make out. I'm around all day now, off and on, and others around here use refractometers too, so hit us up right away with anything at all that you aren't sure about, or need help with.

No such thing as a dumb question here, basics are really important and we all started there.

Thank you @Gee64 , that’s cleared loads up

Iv seen the same pots as gee- one has, that would make life a whole lot easier

With the organic soil thing,
one of my previous grows, it was way over 2 months and my ladies still didn’t need the synthetic nutes I had, and there was thousands of springtails is it, in the pots, and I just started feeding cos I thought they must of needed it, and not long after the little silver sods disappeared now I understand why it happened the way it did

And with the brixing, is there any specific leaf that’s best to take ?
And thank you once again @Gee64

 

[Gee64]

Thank you @Gee64 , that’s cleared loads up

Iv seen the same pots as gee- one has, that would make life a whole lot easier

With the organic soil thing,
one of my previous grows, it was way over 2 months and my ladies still didn’t need the synthetic nutes I had, and there was thousands of springtails is it, in the pots, and I just started feeding cos I thought they must of needed it, and not long after the little silver sods disappeared now I understand why it happened the way it did

And with the brixing, is there any specific leaf that’s best to take ?
And thank you once again @Gee64

I like to brix fullyvdeveloped leaves near the top, about 2/3 of the way up, that are in direct light but aren't quite the best ones. Good leaves fairly high that you think the plant can livecwithout. Don't take the fans off your prime colas though, just a bit lower than them but in full light.

 

[Carmen Ray]

Hi @Gee64
Iv been reading through,bout 90 % I haven’t a clue with lol
Someone told me to grow autos, but not knowing when they flip scares me, I probably won’t have any colas with the topping when they do, so yeah, to scary

Hey Kaldean, autos don't flip as such, they do well on an 18/6 light schedule throughout growth. I usually top above the 4th node, not counting the first node which is often removed due to it's larf potential. I use a combination of training methods on my autos to improve harvest potential.
Autos generally begin to flower after three weeks or more. You don't have to do anything other than top dress and feed. LOS (living organic soil) makes feeding the plant a breeze.

iv got a few questions, we’ll loads lol.

Firstly, the swick/wick thing, what’s the difference ? I noticed one of @g-one-three’s pics, he’s pot had 2 ropes wrapped in a x, is that for a fabric pot to sit on, or do they go into the pot and into the soil, cos I’m thinking that the watering is one of my problems

You should take a look at the Swick thread if you haven't already found it.

The Everything SWICK Club: 2023 And Beyond

I'd like to invite some people to contribute to the development of this thread. Please feel free to contribute and invite others too: @el gringuito @Hash Hound @ReservoirDog @bluter @Azimuth @lazylathe @Pondwater Who else, people? :cheer:WELCOME TO THE SWICK CLUB:cheer: First off, I am a...

www.420magazine.com

And with the soil, do yous all start with living soil from seeds ? Cos what I’m thinking, do people, or is it possible to start off with organic soil, then transplant a few weeks before the flip into living soil, or will there be no benefit from doing that ?

I plant my seeds directly into a 50:50 mixture of the soil they will be in and a light bonsai mix. I prefer to give them a gentle start. I occasionally spray the surface of the solos with fish water and microbes, and I always plant them with myco. I up pot into 20 Liter fabric pots filled with the LOS at about three weeks of age.

Also, I have the refractometer, if you don’t mind, could you run me through on how to go about it, I know about the calibrating it with distilled water, but that’s about it don’t know where to take leaves or how many or what time of day, basically, I know nothing

And lastly, I have some pics, I left quite a few leaves on a couple of my younger ladies, hoping that if what happened to my older plants starts happening, it won’t take so much of a toll, maybe just hoping but that my thinking, and it seems that the one with most leaves is being effected most, maybe that’s a clue, and one of them is going purple in the edges, dunno if that’s the strain or cold or what, and before I forget again, my strains are
Keren = 2 plants
Chemdawg and black cherry moonrocks

Ole and I got the mycro stuff, and they also sent me a free gift because if that late delivery, I will put pics of that up too

And thank you and everyone else for all your help

Beautiful but hungry plants, saying "feed me Seymore"!

 

[Kaldean]

I like to brix fullyvdeveloped leaves near the top, about 2/3 of the way up, that are in direct light but aren't quite the best ones. Good leaves fairly high that you think the plant can livecwithout. Don't take the fans off your prime colas though, just a bit lower than them but in full light.

With ya @Gee64
I know where I’m going now lol.
Thank you mate

 

[Kaldean]

Hey Kaldean, autos don't flip as such, they do well on an 18/6 light schedule throughout growth. I usually top above the 4th node, not counting the first node which is often removed due to it's larf potential. I use a combination of training methods on my autos to improve harvest potential.
Autos generally begin to flower after three weeks or more. You don't have to do anything other than top dress and feed. LOS (living organic soil) makes feeding the plant a breeze.

You should take a look at the Swick thread if you haven't already found it.

The Everything SWICK Club: 2023 And Beyond

I'd like to invite some people to contribute to the development of this thread. Please feel free to contribute and invite others too: @el gringuito @Hash Hound @ReservoirDog @bluter @Azimuth @lazylathe @Pondwater Who else, people? :cheer:WELCOME TO THE SWICK CLUB:cheer: First off, I am a...

www.420magazine.com

I plant my seeds directly into a 50:50 mixture of the soil they will be in and a light bonsai mix. I prefer to give them a gentle start. I occasionally spray the surface of the solos with fish water and microbes, and I always plant them with myco. I up pot into 20 Liter fabric pots filled with the LOS at about three weeks of age.

Beautiful but hungry plants, saying "feed me Seymore"!

Hi @Carmen Ray, thank you for all that info

Dunno if you’ve noticed but I do t know how to reply to the section bits like yous do, every time I press a new button thing it all goes wrong

Firstly, the larf thing, I can understand with the lower buds, but is it correct that your saying the top main cola has potential for being that ?
I was told from someone on here when I was doing my first grow that I shouldn’t remove that, cos that’s the best one, even thou I still do lol,
Or does this only apply to autos ?

And no, I haven’t checkout out that swick post, but I just bookmarked it and will definitely be having a look, thank you

And lastly, that was exactly my thoughts, to start my plants off in a light soil, until I get them how I want them, and repot into a big pot of LOS just before the flip and that way the soil is fresh and would hopefully get me through to harvest without too many issues, so yeah, now I know that that’s how you more or less do it, I have a plan

thank you @Carmen Ray for all your help

 

[Carmen Ray]

Hi @Carmen Ray, thank you for all that info

Dunno if you’ve noticed but I do t know how to reply to the section bits like yous do, every time I press a new button thing it all goes wrong

Place your cursor on the spot where you want to respond, then press ENTER twice and a white space will appear for you to type like I am here

Firstly, the larf thing, I can understand with the lower buds, but is it correct that your saying the top main cola has potential for being that ?
I was told from someone on here when I was doing my first grow that I shouldn’t remove that, cos that’s the best one, even thou I still do lol,
Or does this only apply to autos ?

You top the plant before the top flower develops. The result is that two nodes grow out of one and you get two main colas.

And no, I haven’t checkout out that swick post, but I just bookmarked it and will definitely be having a look, thank you

And lastly, that was exactly my thoughts, to start my plants off in a light soil, until I get them how I want them, and repot into a big pot of LOS just before the flip and that way the soil is fresh and would hopefully get me through to harvest without too many issues, so yeah, now I know that that’s how you more or less do it, I have a plan

thank you @Carmen Ray for all your help

You're welcome!

 

[MedScientist]

Place your cursor on the spot where you want to respond, then press ENTER twice and a white space will appear for you to type like I am here

Thank you Carmen!

 

[Thirvnrob]

Place your cursor on the spot where you want to respond, then press ENTER twice and a white space will appear for you to type like I am here

You top the plant before the top flower develops. The result is that two nodes grow out of one and you get two main colas.

You're welcome!

Maybe I’ll try topping my next one. I just bent these at their tops & tied ‘em down with garden ties. Apple Fritter on the right with a week to go & Fat Bastard on the left with two weeks to go. I have them in a mystery soil, so I don’t know how to feed them. That’s a Sour Diesel clone in the tent with them.