The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It

[Jon]

Durban Poison - Day 33 of Flower.

Family Photo.

32 tops on 8 beautiful African Gals.

Gee thinking out loud:

The pots are all ready for another 10 days, hopefully they can hold up. Pretty soon I will go to hand watering and get off drippers. There is a lot of fertility in my top 2 inches of soil that needs to be massaged down and in. This is when calcium and magnesium can become lil' bitches.

Theres a lot of it in the multiple topdressings that the drippers wont push down as well as a careful gentle hand watering. As soon as they dry a bit they get a gentle and perfectly adequate top watering. Likely about 2 litres a day each.

Taking control back from the auto-water forces me to pay better attention and right now my main goal is to keep the soil in a state that if a problem arises, I can correct it quickly.

Normally you see yellowing down bottom or whatever, so you react, but its organics so it could take 10 days to see a real improvement. By keeping calcium and magnesium moving properly with hand watering, a deficiency needs to go through about 6 nodes of fan leaves, so 12 fans, before it gets into the colas.

By hand watering and keeping everything in check, I can cut that 10 day turnaround into 5, and 10-12 leaves per cola can buffer that.

If I am dilligent, I actually still have enough fans to get me through 2 deficiencies, as long as none are phosphorus.

Hope I make it.

Damn man. You pay hyper attention to everything. Very impressive. Constantly planning two weeks out or so. I see. I absorb. The buds are gorgeous. That far right fatty cola is making me crazy.

 

[Gee64]

Damn man. You pay hyper attention to everything. Very impressive. Constantly planning two weeks out or so. I see. I absorb. The buds are gorgeous. That far right fatty cola is making me crazy.

Thanks Jon. Yeah that one cola is a beast. Its coming from Shorty, the smallest plant. Tiny pheno's quite often have the best results.

In organics you have to think ahead in 10-14 day increments. Nothing is exact in timeline, so if you break it into 10 day blocks instead of 14 it keeps you ahead.

If a deficiency shows up its not like synthetics where you fix it and 12 hours later you see results.

If a deficiency shows up and you aren't ahead of it your going to really feel it in yield and quality.

That being said, it's pretty easy to topdress every 10 days.

 

[Gee64]

Thank you Gee! I don't think that the leaves present in this way. The burn is inside the leaf and on the tips of my plant, not on the leaf margins, and the leaf margins are not yellowing first like Potassium def. Maybe I must get some better pics.

Have you ever watered this plant with fish fertilizer? If it was my plant I would root drench it in a tub of water for 30 minutes, drain it to drip-dry, then gently do it again in fresh water. Do this all gently. Let the pot sink on its own, and raise it out slowly.

Then dust the surface with some myco. Not a ton but dust it, then deeply and gently fully water that in with fish fertilizer mixed as per the instructions, so about 1.5ml per litre.

Make sure it's hydrolyzed fish ferts, not emulsion. Emulsion is the really stinky stuff.

Then next watering while it's still quite damp from the drenching, I would water it with blackstrap molasses mixed at 2 tablespoons per gallon, to boost the microbes, then the next watering after that use fish again, to help the new myco establish, and then go back to regular maintenance and waterings.

Most don't realize the importance of feeding myco. It's more important than feeding microbes, but it's easy. Use hydrolysed fish ferts once a week. Myco will be happy forever. The plant will feed it after that.

So to itemize:
Very gentle double root drench
Water to runoff with fish ferts
Next watering molasses
Next watering fish ferts.

She's hurting and none of this will hurt it, but I bet it turns around. It will take a week to stop it, then steady it, then turn it around, so you need to move quick.

If it were my plant that's what I would do.

Heres my logic on why.

It looks like a K deficiency. Too much calcium and/or magnesium can lock out K. So you had a K def, and added CalMag, now it's worsening.

The gentle double drench will remove a lot of loose calcium. Fish ferts are high in K, and everything a plant and more importantly the fungii need. It's a full diet high in good K.

Molasses feeds your microbes while the plant can't produce enough exudates so jumpstart the microbes. Extra myco is just cuz. Its a rescue and harvest won't wait, you need to hurry so use myco too.

Hydrolysed fish ferts, thats important. NOT emulsion. Blackstrap molasses only.

 

[Gee64]

Wild Lady - Day 5.

RVDV - Day 5.

Iklwa - Day 5.

LC-18 - Day 5.

So small. Today they get their 1st fish watering.

 

[Carmen Ray]

Have you ever watered this plant with fish fertilizer? If it was my plant I would root drench it in a tub of water for 30 minutes, drain it to drip-dry, then gently do it again in fresh water. Do this all gently. Let the pot sink on its own, and raise it out slowly.

Then dust the surface with some myco. Not a ton but dust it, then deeply and gently fully water that in with fish fertilizer mixed as per the instructions, so about 1.5ml per litre.

Make sure it's hydrolyzed fish ferts, not emulsion. Emulsion is the really stinky stuff.

Then next watering while it's still quite damp from the drenching, I would water it with blackstrap molasses mixed at 2 tablespoons per gallon, to boost the microbes, then the next watering after that use fish again, to help the new myco establish, and then go back to regular maintenance and waterings.

Most don't realize the importance of feeding myco. It's more important than feeding microbes, but it's easy. Use hydrolysed fish ferts once a week. Myco will be happy forever. The plant will feed it after that.

So to itemize:
Very gentle double root drench
Water to runoff with fish ferts
Next watering molasses
Next watering fish ferts.

She's hurting and none of this will hurt it, but I bet it turns around. It will take a week to stop it, then steady it, then turn it around, so you need to move quick.

If it were my plant that's what I would do.

Heres my logic on why.

It looks like a K deficiency. Too much calcium and/or magnesium can lock out K. So you had a K def, and added CalMag, now it's worsening.

The gentle double drench will remove a lot of loose calcium. Fish ferts are high in K, and everything a plant and more importantly the fungii need. It's a full diet high in good K.

Molasses feeds your microbes while the plant can't produce enough exudates so jumpstart the microbes. Extra myco is just cuz. Its a rescue and harvest won't wait, you need to hurry so use myco too.

Hydrolysed fish ferts, thats important. NOT emulsion. Blackstrap molasses only.

Thank you Gee. I am actually going to do nothing except continue to water the plant to the finish line and see what happens. The last time I fed fish ferts to a flowering plant, the nitrogen in it burnt the plant terribly. It was obviously not the right kind. I haven't given any calcium in 13 days, and I only gave 2ml to 4L when I did. Oh well, it is what it is. The other plant is not affected like this.

 

[Gee64]

Durban Poison - Day 35.

Webcam shot.

 

[Gidorah]

Wild Lady - Day 5.

RVDV - Day 5.

Iklwa - Day 5.

LC-18 - Day 5.

So small. Today they get their 1st fish watering.

Based on your earlier posts about fish ferts, im guessing its for the soil microbers right? Is the fish water just near the stem or is it the whole pot?

 

[Gee64]

It's for the myco actually. These babies will get a quarter cup each. The plant certainly benefits, but it makes myco very happy.

Right now it will be near the stem because I'm encouraging tap roots to hit the bottoms and take myco with them, but if I was in a small pot, 1 gal or less, I would do a full watering with it.

Just don't mix it strong, and make sure it's hydrolyzed and not emulsion. Follow the mixing instructions. My brand is 1.5ml/litre of water.

I don't encourage heavy microbial growth until fungal is strong enough to maintain dominance over the microbes, so fish really works well on babies and young vegging plants when fungii must do a lot of the work.

If your fish ferts have a foliar mixing ratio, a foliar spray will help out a sick baby. A hungry plant too.

I don't foliar healthy plants, but a sick baby can quite often be fixed with one foliar.

Sometimes myco doesn't link up to the seed and it takes a day or 2 for the roots to link up to the soil. If you have to foliar a baby, always drench in some myco too.

The foliar will help it til it hooks up.

 

[Gidorah]

Ok, last fish fert question. Is there a fish fert schedule or one and done and as needed thereafter?

 

[Gee64]

I generally use it once a week.

 

[Gidorah]

Ok, thank you. My local big box has some that i will take a look at. I think its 0-10-10 Alaskan something brand.

 

[Gee64]

ok. Just make sure it's not emulsion. Emulsion is what's left after they strip all the good stuff out. Cold hydrolysed is the good stuff.

 

[Gee64]

Also beware hydrolysed emulsions. They are still emulsion.

 

[Gidorah]

Also beware hydrolysed emulsions. They are still emulsion.

Lol, i hit the panic button, double checked my online order. Good to go, thank you.

 

[Gee64]

So this is what I did this weekend. I made honey oil. I use it to smear on rolling papers to wrap cannagars with. Its really potent stuff. Shatter once it fully cools.

I freeze weed and Everclear in the freezer, seperately, at -18C for at least 48 hours. That traps all the water soluables in the weed, locked up and frozen solid. I only want to rinse the tricomes off.

I mix 2 oz's of frozen sugar trim and old buds in a large ziplock bag, and toss in 36 oz of chilled Everclear, gently slosh it a few times, and set it back in the freezer. Then 2 minutes later I slosh it again, and back to the freezer. Then a 3rd slosh and pour it through a coffee filter into a caraffe.

and you get this......

Then you put the solution in this. Its a Source Turbo vacuum assist still.

The solution goes into the crucible in the middle, and the evaporated alcohol exits the crucible through mild heat, 105F max, with a small amount of negative vacuum pressure added to the still to lower the boiling point of alcohol significantly, so you can evaporate it off at 100-105F without destroying terpenes.

The pan on top was filled with water and frozen. It now condenses the vapors and the alcohol comes out and drips into the reclamation chamber.

I make a few of these ice discs and store them in the freezer.

Once all the alcohol has left the crucible and transferred to the reclamation chamber this is whats left in the crucible, a few grams of pure shatter. Now I let it cool.

 

[Gee64]

As it cools on the silicone mat, I lay papers in it. Once cooled, they peel up with a thick layer of oil attached

 

[Gee64]

Durban Poison - Day 35.

Halfways! And more importantly 16-23 days from senesence, and here is why that's important.....

Tip burn sucks, but take that out of the picture....

and you can see a deficiency possibly starting in the leaves.

This is a new batch of soil on it's first run, so anything can pop up. My South African Ladies are in the same soil.

So I need to watch this, I must be sure what it is before I react, so I am going to stick with my routine and see where it goes.

I have a lot of leaves to pull from so if I can get to senesence without a rescue thats my preferred route, but if I do a rescue it's likely the SA Girls will need one too, so I can't screw this up.

I want the SA product more than this Durban.

I also want to be sure of any adjustments on the rebuild of this soil.

Durban Ladies, Welcome to The Torture Chamber. You are now test subjects.

RVDV - Day 6.

Iklwa - Day 6.

LC-18 - Day 6.

Wild Lady - Day 6.

Wild Lady is a light pheno showing strong variegation. They are certainly "wild" looking compared to the deeply bred seeds of most companies. The pheno potential in here is unlimited!.

I need to get at least close to finish with this soil so I can preempt any problems on the SA pots and get them through without a rescue.

If I can do that then I have great input on how to tweak the soil rebuild, as these rootballs will be ready for rebuild when the SA girls get harvested.

By doing 2 identical runs back to back of the same soil, it gives you time to get it right (or at least righter than it was) but you have to be patient. It's getting interesting finally.

So we watch..... and drink fish water.

 

[StoneOtter]

I actually do have a question. For anyone who cares to chime in. I’m thinking about outdoor organic growing. I guess for up to 15 gallons I’d use a pot. But that would be inadequate for a plant that hit the outside end of May beginning of June after being started indoors and set to grow til fall. I’d need more like 40 gallons, right? So the question is, what does one do in that case? Dig a hole and fill with your organic soil? I’m thinking just one huge plant. I want to set her up and let her go mostly. Let her get big big. Like 14’ or however tall she’d get. I have the stealth in PA to do it. I have guys with legs to help me in PA, one of whom has a ton more outdoor experience than I do. I think I can pull it off. So if it’s a hole, would I need to line the hole in some way?

Thanks guys and girls!

Nice Jon! My holes are 3 feet around and about 18 inches deep. If you fill that space with mineralized soil like The Rev's It should do well with light top dressings. That soil is full of what they want! My 10 gallon SIP's in 4 plant consist just grew a pounder and a 13 ouncer in water only.Do the math for hole size. pick a nice big size like I did with the ones I described. If you fill them with good LOS they'll produce! Disclaimer: my holes are filled with foxfarm ocean forest I re-use, and feed with Geoflora every two weeks.

Durban Poison - Day 35.

Webcam shot.

Beauties Gee! Your Africans are too!

 

[Gidorah]

As it cools on the silicone mat, I lay papers in it. Once cooled, they peel up with a thick layer of oil attached

Those look dangerous, like the beginning of the end once you hit that

 

[Gee64]

Those look dangerous, like the beginning of the end once you hit that

They are the long papers, and one won't reach to wrap around the cigar, so 2 get used for each cannagar.

I store them and when I need them I warm them up so they get pliable.

I have 4 from this batch and 3 more batches to make. I also filled a small silicone dab pot so 2 oz of trim gave me about a quarter ounce of oil, give or take, and I have 3 more batches.

I could do a 2nd rinse on each batch and get at least 2 more grams out, but it's always green with a bit of chlorophyl.

Great for edibles I bet, but I just like trading trim for honey oil, I don't need no stinkin' 2nd rate oil.

Or I'm too lazy.

One of the two for sure.