Hm, I dunno if this new setup qualifies as SIP anymore, Azi. I thought we were being hardasses about the reservoir/air gap/matrix setup? Lol.
If you add knf/Jadam from the top, say, weekly, but never in enough quantity to wipe out your moisture gradient or leech into reservoir, then knf/Jadam work very well and I have been getting good plant response to mine.
Also, if you guys really want to know how to avoid the 2 week transplant stall I’m happy to tell you. I’m even more confident now that I’ve sorted the issue, after multiple generations of starts with method - but I have shared the method before. Perhaps I just wasn’t clear, or it was in the middle of a classic RD text wall that no-one read.
I’ll make a photo-based instruction guide if anyone requests I do so. It’s basically a SIP design for seedlings so they develop SIP root structure from the start. If you do this then when seedling is at 5 nodes you may plant in main SIP without stalling and save yourself two weeks.
However, it is also very (very) important to setup the main SIP properly too. Meaning, a good moisture gradient (in my 16 inch deep SIP planters I shoot for 1.33x -1.5x field capacity at the bottom [that’s a simple moisture measurement you can make without tools - look it up] and almost dry in top 1/2 inch) from day one of transplant. I feel I’ve really got this worked out now, but, I don’t know if everyone is still experimenting or you’ve all figured it out yourselves.
I think that’s awesome! Sorry been away 6 weeks or so. Just make sure enough dirt falls between the two close walls there so moisture can wick up and should work great. What’s the diameter? Oh, don’t forget a drain hole. Besides water level it helps air move about under-skirt and oxygenate the roots.