OG Kush Round 2- In Soil - 1000Watt HPS - GH utes - CO2- Flipped Now- Going For 1LB!?

Re: OG Kush Round 2- In Soil - 1000Watt HPS - GH utes - CO2- Flipped Now- Going For 1

Oh my, the powdery mildew of doom. LOL just kidding you should be able to handle it with proper attention and care. As for the outside issue, that's pretty bad. You want to be careful drawing in air from outside, especially if you know for a fact there's PM living in your surrounding trees. That means theres spores floating everywhere when the wind blows. You may want to look into hiring someone to take care of that after this grow is complete, and before you start another. Any questions can be explained away with a simple "It affects the quality of air in my home." Good enough for anyone, nobody wants to breathe mildew air!!! I had the same issue as a few feet from my intake theres a lilac bush that had a few branches with PM. 1 hurricane and a bit of trimming later and its all gone. Viola!
 
Re: OG Kush Round 2- In Soil - 1000Watt HPS - GH utes - CO2- Flipped Now- Going For 1

ive never saw that before, whats pm? What will u use to fix it?

I saw you figured out the abreviation..
I'm not sure what it's called, but last time I had PM, I went to my hydro shop, said I needed something for powdery mildew. And they gave me this small brown bottle. Gave me instructions to mix 2.5ml/ litre of water. Spray the whole plants an hour before lights on, and crank the fans. They never told me what its called.. But it smells like strong jiffy markers. Can't be that good for you, so I always spray it quick, crank the fans and get the fuck out til lights come on. I hit the flower room last night. I put towels down all around the bottoms of the plants to catch any drip off. And while I had the mister going I hit the babies too as a preventative.
It sucks that my house is so surrounded by the stuff. And I thought of trying to handle the problem directly by spraying the trees. But There's just too much!! The positive (if you see it that way) is that it mainly lives on the leaves. Almost all of the leaves have fallen since it's "fall". I've been busy cleaning up the fallen infected leaves once a week, and bag em up in Home depot compost bags then off the property. But I think I'm always going to be battling it if we choose to stay here.. B.C. is a lot like the UK with our winters. cold/wet/damp.. There's not much escaping it.. Mold and mildew thrive off these conditions.
There's no point in having the tree sprayed now, as almost all the leaves are gone. But I think next summer, if we stay here I'm going to get someone to come and treat this tree in the back yard because I plan on having some deck plants too.
Plus I wouldn't mind having the peace of mind that my family and I are breathing clean air in our home.
 
Re: OG Kush Round 2- In Soil - 1000Watt HPS - GH utes - CO2- Flipped Now- Going For 1

I had it once, wasnt fun it can take over fast if it isnt stopped, i actually had to move to get away from my PM problem :(
wish you the best of luck hope u can kick its ass! :high-five:

Is that why your name is "Delocated420" ?? lol
Thanks for the luck, and I'm gunna kick it in it's asses alright..:high-five:
 
Re: OG Kush Round 2- In Soil - 1000Watt HPS - GH utes - CO2- Flipped Now- Going For 1

thats a bummer mate. its something ive never experienced. Ive had bud rot and other mould issues and the sprays i have used to treat have alway affected the quality and taste of end product, but they have saved crop. I journalled a grow recently that got decimated with rot. luckily i rescued enough to cover costs but was a nightmare, i ended up taking it down a couple weeks early. Hope u can work it out mate.
 
Re: OG Kush Round 2- In Soil - 1000Watt HPS - GH utes - CO2- Flipped Now- Going For 1

Damn, that sucks C..
I'm really getting close to harvest though.
Trichs are cloudy with approaching ambers.
Bummer cuz I was really hoping to go longer on this crop and have a more stoney smoke.
Really going to keep an eye on everything this week. But If I have to pull it early I will.
Not worth having moldy meds that'll make me sick..
 
Re: OG Kush Round 2- In Soil - 1000Watt HPS - GH utes - CO2- Flipped Now- Going For 1

Vick, do you have any pictures of PM on your plants? I can't find anything online and have seen a few (2%) of my buds that have "white fuzz" with little hairs that are not Trichomes and was wondering whether it was PM or some other kind of fungus. I read that PM can be removed with 3% H2O2, but that did not have any effect.

I just found an article online and can post it here if you want - I hate posting too much on other people's journals and this is 3 pages long. It also covers Downey Mildew (DM), which grows on the underside of leaves and I think that is a possibility in my own case. It even says that one species of ladybug (Psyllobora spp) eats PM! Too bad you can't get them from stores, but they do live in California, so at least they have that natural option. I don't know how to capture ladybugs, though.
 
Re: OG Kush Round 2- In Soil - 1000Watt HPS - GH utes - CO2- Flipped Now- Going For 1

Vick, do you have any pictures of PM on your plants? I can't find anything online and have seen a few (2%) of my buds that have "white fuzz" with little hairs that are not Trichomes and was wondering whether it was PM or some other kind of fungus. I read that PM can be removed with 3% H2O2, but that did not have any effect.

I just found an article online and can post it here if you want - I hate posting too much on other people's journals and this is 3 pages long. It also covers Downey Mildew (DM), which grows on the underside of leaves and I think that is a possibility in my own case. It even says that one species of ladybug (Psyllobora spp) eats PM! Too bad you can't get them from stores, but they do live in California, so at least they have that natural option. I don't know how to capture ladybugs, though.

Hi Ardvark,
I don't have any photos to show you of the PM I had. But it usually starts showing up on the lower leaves in little clusters of white fuzz. Really small at first the size of a water droplet, then they get bigger and fuzzier. I'll find out what that stuff is called that I use, and post up here later. If you want to post up a link here to that article on PM, that would be great instead of putting up the actual 7 page article.
I have heard that ladybugs can eat PM. But only a few caught and unleashed in your room won't do much. Found a source that can ship them to me locally by the 1000. But haven't actually put an order in yet.
 
Re: OG Kush Round 2- In Soil - 1000Watt HPS - GH utes - CO2- Flipped Now- Going For 1

Vick - the article is only 3 - not 7 pages, but unfortunately I had downloaded it and the original site/domain is dead. It did say that that particular species of Ladybug wasn't available, but maybe that has changed. I will try and find a place for the article in another forum and post the link here.
 
Re: OG Kush Round 2- In Soil - 1000Watt HPS - GH utes - CO2- Flipped Now- Going For 1

No no...
My appologies Aardvark!!
You can post it up here, for some reason I thought you said 7. Three?, seven?
jesus I must be high..
 
Re: OG Kush Round 2- In Soil - 1000Watt HPS - GH utes - CO2- Flipped Now- Going For 1

So I just called my hydro shop and asked them what the stuff in the little brown bottle is called.
They wouldn't tell me what was in it, cuz it's their secret brew.
They also told me not to inhale it and to wear a mask when spraying it.
SOB's Thanks guys, you never told me that when I bought it..:cough:
 
Re: OG Kush Round 2- In Soil - 1000Watt HPS - GH utes - CO2- Flipped Now- Going For 1

Is that why your name is "Delocated420" ?? lol
Thanks for the luck, and I'm gunna kick it in it's asses alright..:high-five:

No lol It's a play off my favorite TV show, Delocated. A late night AdultSwim show. Great when ur really baked :thumb:

When I was battling PM i just lowered my humidity and made my intakes passive from inside my house to stop sucking in any more infected air and tried my best to remove any infectected leaves, still ended up with a good harvest of potent buds none were actually lost to PM but the fact that it would be seen every few weeks while growing encouraged me to just move to a new location.
 
Re: OG Kush Round 2- In Soil - 1000Watt HPS - GH utes - CO2- Flipped Now- Going For 1

Awesome news!!!!!
saw this vid on jon705's journal.
It's now legal in the states of Colorodo and Washington, to grow 6 plants and to be able to purchase up to an ounce at legal dispensiaries!!
Celebration time everyone!!!!
:cheesygrinsmiley::headbanger::headbanger::headbanger::headbanger::headbanger::headbanger::headbanger::headbanger::headbanger::headbanger::)
[video=youtube;cLDjs7ytBTk]
[/video]
Check out how he throws out the devil horns at the end!! Yew!:rocker:
 
Re: OG Kush Round 2- In Soil - 1000Watt HPS - GH utes - CO2- Flipped Now- Going For 1

It's now legal in the states of Colorodo and Washington, to grow 6 plants and to be able to purchase up to an ounce at legal dispensiaries!!

Washington might have different rules. Amendment 64 is what the video was about. Washington had something called measure 502? 503? Anyway they were both passed and they both legalize marijuana for recreational use at a state level. The details of what you are allowed to do and when things go into effect will probably be different though. But yes, huge victory!
 
Re: OG Kush Round 2- In Soil - 1000Watt HPS - GH utes - CO2- Flipped Now- Going For 1

you can use water and milk to remove and fend of pm, not sure on the mix but you add none fat milk to water and spray it on affected plants and it stops the pm and removes and that can be removed, search the net and you should find the mix you need
 
Re: OG Kush Round 2- In Soil - 1000Watt HPS - GH utes - CO2- Flipped Now- Going For 1

you can use water and milk to remove and fend of pm, not sure on the mix but you add none fat milk to water and spray it on affected plants and it stops the pm and removes and that can be removed, search the net and you should find the mix you need
Thanks for chiming in don,
I've read up on a few people using that mix, but if I remember correctly you still have to rinse it off with water after. I just can't risk spraying that much liquid on my plants this far into flower. I'm just inviting bud rot to the party.
I've closed off intake and am keeping a close eye on them this week. Anything that's seen with PM on it it will be removed..
I already sprayed last night, so I'm just going to wait it out..
really interested as to what's in that "secret" solution that my shop gave me though..:hmmmm:
 
Re: OG Kush Round 2- In Soil - 1000Watt HPS - GH utes - CO2- Flipped Now- Going For 1

No no...
My appologies Aardvark!!
You can post it up here, for some reason I thought you said 7. Three?, seven?
jesus I must be high..

Shit, not a problem! I thought I had already posted this today, so we are both a little high!

PM Basics: Life Cycle, Symptoms, and Effects

Powdery mildew is a disease caused by many different species of fungi. Each species attacks specific plants, usually only one or two, but others attack a wide range of plants. The fungi require live tissue to grow and reproduce, and affect all types of plants, from trees to vegetables, even houseplants.

The most common reproduction is asexual production of spores, with the time from germination to spore production being as little as 48 hours. The spores move from plant to plant by wind as well as through direct contact by insects, animals and sometimes gardeners! Some species of PM require year-round availability of plant hosts to survive, other species switch to sexual reproduction in the fall, producing small black dots, called cleistothecia, which overwinter and eject spores in the spring.

Infection is favored by high humidity (50 to 90%) during twilight hours, and temperatures between 60° and 80° F. While there’s some ambiguity in the UC IPM literature, most sources state that not only does PM not require moist conditions to germinate and grow but that the spores can be killed or inhibited by water on the plant. Shady conditions (which are most conducive to retaining humidity) and vigorous plant growth favor disease development while high temperatures (above 90°F) have an inhibitive effect.

Symptoms most often appear in the form of circular white spots; the spots enlarge as the white mycelium (threadlike filaments) grows over plant surfaces and produces spores, giving a powdery appearance that covers the leaves (although one species that affects onions, peppers and tomatoes has a yellow appearance with little powdery growth). The infection forms on either side of the leaves, spreading rapidly over the entire surface with the mycelium sending a root like structure (called haustoria) into the leaves, taking nutrient from its host.

Affected leaves will not manufacture as much food as they should, and may turn yellowish or brown and drop from the plant, thereby increasing problems with sunburn on some plants. Other injury may appear as stunting and distortion of leaves and buds, sometimes but less often, affecting fruit. Since nutrients are removed from the plant by the fungus, the result may be a plant with reduced vigor in growth, bloom and fruit. The extent of damage depends on the species of PM and the plant variety affected.

A side note: don’t confuse PM with Downey Mildew (DM), they’re different diseases, with different symptoms and control mechanisms. While downy mildew can also produce a powdery growth, it grows primarily on the underside of leaves, and when viewed with a hand lens, has a tree like structure instead of the threads of PM. Downey mildew infections are favored by moist humid summers (high humidity with moderate temperatures), making it more of a problem along the coast where it can cause serious problems for plants including roses.

Management and Control

All sources seem to agree on this: the best way to avoid PM problems is to plant varieties that are resistant to the disease. If you have a problem plant, seriously consider removing it and finding something else. Of course, first decide if it’s really a “problem”; just because the plant has PM (for all or parts of the year) doesn’t mean you have to worry about it. If the plant is growing “well enough” for you, and it’s purpose isn’t significantly affected, you may do well enough by leaving it alone.

But if you have your heart set on a susceptible plant, remember your IPM practices: cultural control first! The most basic cultural practices include:

• Plant in a sunny location wherever possible

• Make sure there’s good air circulation (through plant spacing and pruning)

• Promote steady growth with moderate application of nitrogen fertilizer (or use a time release fertilizer)

• In a sunny dry location, an occasional spray of water can be used to wash the PM from the plant

• Remove and discard infected material, take special care in the fall to reduce the amount material available for over wintering

• If you’re planting annuals, consider different plants from year to year since the mildew species from the previous may not affect a different plant

An intriguing note: there’s one kind of lady beetle (Psyllobora spp) that actually eats powdery mildew. Unfortunately, this isn’t the variety you can purchase for use in the garden, but it does live in California.

For example, I have a Variegated Euonymous that has white spots almost the entire year. It’s in a sunny location, well enough established to need almost no water during the summer months, and sends out new growth the entire year. This is the perfect case for letting things be. While I might wash the plant occasionally for appearance’s sake (although I never seem to make time for this), there’s no real “problem”. On the other hand, my Zepherine Drouhin climbing rose, which sits in a partially shaded location along the side of the house, is often affected on new shoots where the leaves curl severely. In this case, other than a spraying regimen, the best idea seems to be to try moving it to a sunnier location where there’s more air circulation. I could consider a spraying regimen, but need to think about the environment, not to mention the time required. Let’s talk more about those options next.

As always, if you consider spraying, know your options. One of the most important things to know about controlling PM is that some sprays act to ward off the disease (preventatives) while others will kill it once it’s established (eradicants). Some sprays will do both, but many serve only one purpose or the other. Spraying an eradicant before you see symptoms, therefore, is typically a waste of time, as is the use of a preventative once you have an infection.

Preventatives: if you know you have a susceptible plant, you can consider regular sprays to avoid infections. Preventatives include:

• Sulfur: used for centuries, sulfur is most effective when applied in wettable form (such as Safer Garden Fungicide). Note that sulfur can damage ornamental plants; do not apply above 90°F or within two weeks of an oil spray.

• Bicarbonates: available in the form of potassium bicarbonate (Kaligreen) and home-made solutions using baking soda. Be careful to avoid injury to the plants, and note that baking soda can have adverse effects on the soil when over used. Baking soda solutions can use salad oil as a spreader-sticker, or horticultural oil (which adds eradicant capabilities).

• The biological fungicide Serenade contains a bacterium which helps prevent infections from occurring.

Mary Louise Flint, University of California at Davis, Director of UC Integrated Pest Management Education & Publications says, “A simple fungicide can be made at home by combining 2-1/2 tablespoons of horticultural oil (Sunspray Ultra-Fine, Saf-T-Side, etc.) in a gallon of water and adding 4 teaspoons baking soda. This solution is sprayed on plants to prevent powdery mildew infections. Sprays of both potassium bicarbonate and baking soda can injure the plant, so use these materials with caution. Also, baking soda sprays can have deleterious effects on soil structure and should be used sparingly.”

Eradicants: Once you have active symptoms, you may need an eradicant to kill the infection to avoid further damage. Since the established PM is a parasite to the host plant, using a preventative to avoiding spreading will not stop damage to the plant. Eradicants include:

• Horticultural oils such as JMS Stylet Oil, Saf-T-Side Spray or Sunspray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil.

• Plant based oils including neem oil or jojoba oil.

• The biological fungicide AQ10 contains a parasitic fungicide that attacks the PM fungus.

Combination: Unfortunately, sprays combining both preventative and eradicant qualities fall mostly into the synthetic fungicide category and are least recommended from an IPM viewpoint. The least toxic combination
 
Re: OG Kush Round 2- In Soil - 1000Watt HPS - GH utes - CO2- Flipped Now- Going For 1

you basically need to get fresh air in all the time, any stale air will just rest on the plants, so as long as you got plenty of air moving you should be ok, but air spreads the spores so its needs treating firsts
 
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