Jon's Outdoor Winter Photoperiod Grow

Hi @Azimuth - yep, me too. I’ve talked to many about it. I settle (for now, lol) on @Bill284 once again: take as few leaves as possible the entire grow. For pretty much exactly the reason you said. I remove obvious big blockers when necessary, and I take from below as they become unviable or are all smashed together blocking lower air flow through the plant, but other than that anymore my plants harvest pretty leafy these days. It’s a shift from how I used to operate, and I have seen a big difference these last couple grows since adopting that posture. I’m convinced the need for leaves is great and the plant is well served to have as many as possible.
I've seen a few good reasons to do some. The first, like you mention, is to open up the air flow, but those are mostly underneath leaves that contribute less to energy gathering anyway and the benefit from airflow makes sense.

The other is @Hafta's continual leaf plucking which he says introduces stress which makes for stronger roots. But, since I grow in SIPs, the rules for roots there are different.

But other than those two I'm a bit skeptical quizzical on the actual science of general defoliation.
 
I've seen a few good reasons to do some. The first, like you mention, is to open up the air flow, but those are mostly underneath leaves that contribute less to energy gathering anyway and the benefit from airflow makes sense.

The other is @Hafta's continual leaf plucking which he says introduces stress which makes for stronger roots. But, since I grow in SIPs, the rules for roots there are different.

But other than those two I'm a bit skeptical quizzical on the actual science of general defoliation.
Every grower has there own experiences with defoliation. Most are successful.

IMO

True, defoliation on a regular basis promotes a constant level of stress. I also am careful as to the locations the leaves are removed from.

I am also providing side lighting. (Photo from a previous grow)

J22D31-1.JPG


I remove almost entirely from the new growth, leaving the larger, lower leaves to photosynthesize and provide a larger and continual source of energy. I typically leave the leaves on the undersides of the horizontal branches.

Defoliating the upper part of the plant does a couple of things. It opens up a light path to the lower leaves and buds, and it provides for more air flow through the bud sites, which can help prevent mold and rot. Most of the moisture emitted from the plant is from the leaves. Multiple directional fans can improve air flow through the plant (see above photo).

Defoliating the upper portion also exposes new growth which in turn means more bud sites.

The photos below are five weeks above ground. It has two or three weeks left in veg and has already had more than a couple of hundred leaves removed during training. It has been stressed in a variety of ways including high intensity LED. It is eating 2 1/2 times (increased slowly) as much CalMag as normal but it hasn't affected the growth. You will notice a lot of new tops (potential bud sites). I am defoliating two or three times per day and am removing thirty to fifty leaves a day.
BD D36-1.JPG
BD D36-2.JPG

I expect to harvest around 100 colas.

My last defoliation will occur three weeks into flower and will be upper plant only.

Happy growing ...............
 
Every grower has there own experiences with defoliation. Most are successful.

IMO

True, defoliation on a regular basis promotes a constant level of stress. I also am careful as to the locations the leaves are removed from.

I am also providing side lighting. (Photo from a previous grow)

J22D31-1.JPG


I remove almost entirely from the new growth, leaving the larger, lower leaves to photosynthesize and provide a larger and continual source of energy. I typically leave the leaves on the undersides of the horizontal branches.

Defoliating the upper part of the plant does a couple of things. It opens up a light path to the lower leaves and buds, and it provides for more air flow through the bud sites, which can help prevent mold and rot. Most of the moisture emitted from the plant is from the leaves. Multiple directional fans can improve air flow through the plant (see above photo).

Defoliating the upper portion also exposes new growth which in turn means more bud sites.

The photos below are five weeks above ground. It has two or three weeks left in veg and has already had more than a couple of hundred leaves removed during training. It has been stressed in a variety of ways including high intensity LED. It is eating 2 1/2 times (increased slowly) as much CalMag as normal but it hasn't affected the growth. You will notice a lot of new tops (potential bud sites). I am defoliating two or three times per day and am removing thirty to fifty leaves a day.
BD D36-1.JPG
BD D36-2.JPG

I expect to harvest around 100 colas.

My last defoliation will occur three weeks into flower and will be upper plant only.

Happy growing ...............
I see you get a ton of much more than usual growth from any colas in the sides, and it appears in 360 degrees. I’d postulate that this is how you generate 100 colas on a relatively small plant. It’s incredible. I’ve been considering side lighting for a long time. What are you using? Are those just full spectrum T-5s? What wattage? Did you notice a huge difference between side lighting and not? Is it worth the bump in electricity?
 
@Jon you postulate correctly about the side colas but they are not entirely the lights. The main branches below the topped node are trained to the sides through the third week of flower. Basically, those would have been the main colas.

The main LED is a twelve band, full spectrum, actual 227 watt. The two angled lights are five band, full spectrum, actual 65 watt each. All of these have UV and IR but are not sponsored lights.

The two fluorescents are 5000K T-5's, nine watts each.

The side lighting angle and height is infinitely adjustable. The difference I saw with the side lighting was well worth the added electricity when employed with the Skirted CST technique.
J22 Skirted CST.JPG

Light penetration was optimal and I only had two larf buds (about the size of a dime) in a harvest of 287 grams after manicure, dry, and stabilization (the plant in my Avatar). The plant was 24" x 24" x 18" tall ( 61cm x 61cm x 48cm tall) and yielded over 10 ounces! It was an auto so I didn't have enough veg time to fill the cabinet.

Happy Growing .....
 
You too Bill, and yeah, she’s a peach alright. There are many here, usually myself included, who would defoliate some of those big top fans that form the cowls around the top. I ain’t gonna. It’s too goddamn pretty the way she is. If they block a little light so be it. I’m going to leave her be.
That's exactly what I do.
Proper light and nutrition with a big root ball you know what happens.
You stop defoliating after that.
I find my buds are big and hard all the way down to the skirt.
See what you think compared to a defol.
Maby I still have the pebble. :rofl:




Stay safe
Bill284 :cool:
 
@Jon you postulate correctly about the side colas but they are not entirely the lights. The main branches below the topped node are trained to the sides through the third week of flower. Basically, those would have been the main colas.

The main LED is a twelve band, full spectrum, actual 227 watt. The two angled lights are five band, full spectrum, actual 65 watt each. All of these have UV and IR but are not sponsored lights.

The two fluorescents are 5000K T-5's, nine watts each.

The side lighting angle and height is infinitely adjustable. The difference I saw with the side lighting was well worth the added electricity when employed with the Skirted CST technique.
J22 Skirted CST.JPG

Light penetration was optimal and I only had two larf buds (about the size of a dime) in a harvest of 287 grams after manicure, dry, and stabilization (the plant in my Avatar). The plant was 24" x 24" x 18" tall ( 61cm x 61cm x 48cm tall) and yielded over 10 ounces! It was an auto so I didn't have enough veg time to fill the cabinet.

Happy Growing .....
Thanks @Hafta! Great info. So that’s the first time I’ve heard the term skirted CST. But I see what it is. At least to these eyes it’s basically a scrog where you let the older, bottom fans power the plant, thus allowing you to almost completely defoliate the tops (around the buds), and then leading in turn to the almost complete lack of flarf. Is that about right? Very interesting.
 
I invented the term Skirted CST. CST stands for constant stress training. Basically it mildly annoys the plant constantly until after three weeks of flower. I added the "Skirted" part recently.

That is correct except the SCROG net is put in place after the final defoliation (after three weeks in flower). Its only purpose is to keep the buds spread apart during flower (vertically). All of the branch training is done by weights.

Since the bottom leaves are constantly providing power, the plant never has to go into stall mode without leaves.

The really cool part is that when there are no leaves around the buds, they can grow closer to each other. This last plant had one bud per 2" x 2" square.

J22D51F30-1.JPG


Happy Growing .......
 
I invented the term Skirted CST. CST stands for constant stress training. Basically it mildly annoys the plant constantly until after three weeks of flower. I added the "Skirted" part recently.

That is correct except the SCROG net is put in place after the final defoliation (after three weeks in flower). Its only purpose is to keep the buds spread apart during flower (vertically). All of the branch training is done by weights.

Since the bottom leaves are constantly providing power, the plant never has to go into stall mode without leaves.

The really cool part is that when there are no leaves around the buds, they can grow closer to each other. This last plant had one bud per 2" x 2" square.

J22D51F30-1.JPG


Happy Growing .......
Thanks! I do something similar, conceptually speaking, in terms of skirting, when I train an individual plant in that style, sans net. What you do with weights I do with skewers and twisties. But this example of skirting (great term, btw) is amazing. Perfect.
 
Thanks! I do something similar, conceptually speaking, in terms of skirting, when I train an individual plant in that style, sans net. What you do with weights I do with skewers and twisties. But this example of skirting (great term, btw) is amazing. Perfect.
@Hafta, I have a question…the amount of leaves you have in the skirt in this example - do you feel this mass of leaves per that mass of buds is close to optimal? Or do you have a sense of what works best proportionally, skirt leaf mass to bud mass? There must be a sweet spot I would think?

Edit: one more, lol! What does the middle underneath the buds look like? Is that cleared more than the outer ring that we see in the picture for air flow from below? Or no?

Thanks! I appreciate your insight.
 
@Jon
Many of the leaves were there from the beginning. The skirt is almost entirely below the bud sites. I don't believe you can have too many "skirt" leaves as long as they get light. If the plant doesn't need the leaves it will eliminate them. By the last couple of weeks of flower the nutrients in the skirt leaves were beginning to be absorbed so I don't believe there were too many, especially with the stress being applied daily. I think if you left all leaves below the branches you would do fine.

This is the closet I could come to a photo I took that shows light penetration and interior leaf location.

J22D31 penetration.JPG

Edit. I added a link to my signature that describes CST.

Happy Growing .........
 
@Jon
Many of the leaves were there from the beginning. The skirt is almost entirely below the bud sites. I don't believe you can have too many "skirt" leaves as long as they get light. If the plant doesn't need the leaves it will eliminate them. By the last couple of weeks of flower the nutrients in the skirt leaves were beginning to be absorbed so I don't believe there were too many, especially with the stress being applied daily. I think if you left all leaves below the branches you would do fine.

This is the closet I could come to a photo I took that shows light penetration and interior leaf location.

J22D31 penetration.JPG

Edit. I added a link to my signature that describes CST.

Happy Growing .........
@Hafta thanks! Again, great info and thanks for the picture. Impressive. So why only T-5s on the side? Why not a pair of, say, 200-watt full spectrum LEDs?
 
@Hafta thanks! Again, great info and thanks for the picture. Impressive. So why only T-5s on the side? Why not a pair of, say, 200-watt full spectrum LEDs?
lemme guess - it’s about balancing the ppfd with the overheads ??
 
lemme guess - it’s about balancing the ppfd with the overheads ??
@Jon
Well, a couple of reasons.

They came with the system, are attached with magnets and are great for seedlings. I can "stick" them on the main light and adjust with the seedlings.

I would prefer that the plants recognize the main light as their ultimate goal during training. They are experiencing ever increasing intensity, until I hang a weight on them.

You are probably right about balancing the ppfd in a specific ratio, however I have never measured it. I react to what the plant is saying and the direction it is being trained so I am probably balancing based on the results rather than measurements. Does that make sense?
 
@Jon
Well, a couple of reasons.

They came with the system, are attached with magnets and are great for seedlings. I can "stick" them on the main light and adjust with the seedlings.

I would prefer that the plants recognize the main light as their ultimate goal during training. They are experiencing ever increasing intensity, until I hang a weight on them.

You are probably right about balancing the ppfd in a specific ratio, however I have never measured it. I react to what the plant is saying and the direction it is being trained so I am probably balancing based on the results rather than measurements. Does that make sense?
It does and thank you for the info. I may have to start playing around with this sooner than later. I can easily rig something to hold up lights.
 
LeiLei
Mandarin Zkittlez
Flower Day 10


Looks as if she’s finally about to start actually flowering. It has rained here all day yesterday and today, and when it does that LeiLei changes venues for the day.

49745D59-0C0E-46DD-BECB-5F403EBC5558.jpeg
 
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