Actually, I don't see any septoria in that pic.
Is this leaf septoria? If so, what should I do?
- Thread starter Lovie
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- #142
Here are some close-ups. It's really windy right now and my phone was having a hard time focusing so some of these leaves are from other plants because I had to pluck them and hold them still so my camera would focus.
This is probably the best pic. You can see the whitish haze in the center of the dark spots which is common with fungus.
And here is a leaf from a tree that the wind blew into one of my plants. If you look closely you with see spots with the whitish center too.
For some reason, my plants never get that yellow dapple appearance I have seen with articles about septoria. I don't see it until the more advanced stages.
Top two pics are deficiencies rather than septoria though. If you want to go with another spray I would wait for the rain to pass first and just pluck for now.
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- #144
Are the bottom two pics septoria or am I getting this wrong? And what type of deficiencies do you think I am dealing with?
Hard to tell on the last one but the third one down looks like could be. In terms of nutrients I personally wouldn't try chasing them at this late stage, especially since you're running a mixed bag of feeding methods. Late in flower on an outside plant with a few browning edges I would just hope the weather stays good until harvest.
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- #146
Easier to tell on a living leaf than a dead one, but it's possible and certainly could be the source.
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- #148
I think I did post a pic of a live leaf from a tree earlier in this thread. My property line is filled with trees that have leaves with spots like that......black mold too. And not just my property, but pretty much everywhere I look. I never paid it any attention to it until now. Have you ever visited the east coast? Compared to where you are it would be like visiting a foreign country. At least that is how I felt when visiting the west coast. I stayed in Ventura for a little bit which is not too far from you I believe if you are in LA. Anyway, the east coast is very humid and hot from spring until mid-fall. Perfect conditions for mold and fungus.
I try not to visit it but I did live in NYC for 30 years. Not much in the way of neighborhood trees though.
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- #150
Haha.....I have driven through NYC 100 times, never stopped though.....smells like pooh! You are familiar with the humidity and heat index then. I am in VA.....humidity and heat index get worse the further south you go.I try not to visit it but I did live in NYC for 30 years. Not much in the way of neighborhood trees though.
At this stage of the growth it most likely will be one or more of the macro nutrients. The plant is in full flower growth which is more demanding than the vegetating stage. The way I see it the roots are trapped in the pots of soil and can only get from what is in the pots. It is not like a plant that is directly in the ground where the feeder roots can be as far out or even a bit further than the drip line. Trapped in the pots like they are all the roots can do is try to find what is available in the limited amount of soil.
Looks like the deficiency could be Potassium with possibly a bit of a Phosphorous shortage. Not much than can be done about it this late in the flowering cycle.
Sativa1970
Well-Known Member
Agree with InTheShed. First two pics are deficiency and third is leaf spot. The damage will never heal so you would just be slowing the progress of damage. Could be mag, pot or phos, hard to say. By the time you figure out which one and get it available it will be time for harvest. Giving some mag AKA epsom salt wouldn't hurt because it is readily available to the plant.
You have to weigh the pros and cons before plucking a leaf. A green leaf still has food stores to feed the rest of the plant and still making more food. The reason a leaf yellows with deficiency, is that it is sending it's supply to a more important part of the plant. By plucking a leaf before it is drained you are forcing the plant to start draining another leaf. A yellow leaf is useless and needs to go. If one finger on a leaf is infected, remove the finger, not the whole hand. You just need to keep it alive for a few more weeks.
You have to weigh the pros and cons before plucking a leaf. A green leaf still has food stores to feed the rest of the plant and still making more food. The reason a leaf yellows with deficiency, is that it is sending it's supply to a more important part of the plant. By plucking a leaf before it is drained you are forcing the plant to start draining another leaf. A yellow leaf is useless and needs to go. If one finger on a leaf is infected, remove the finger, not the whole hand. You just need to keep it alive for a few more weeks.
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- #153
Some of my plants may not be as close to harvest as you think. Other people who have grown outside in VA say harvest is between mid- and late October. That being said, there is a flood light where my plants are. It was broken when I decided to put my plants there. Right when it was time for the plants to start transitioning to flower my husband fixed the light. I used the light to my advantage for a week to trick my plants into thinking the days were longer because I was dealing with a N deficiency at the time and I wanted to get it under control before they transitioned. After that, we put weaker light bulbs in. I tried to tell my husband the weaker bulbs were still too bright. He wouldn't believe me until the plant furthest away from the light started to flower and the ones closest were not. After that, I kept unscrewing the light bulbs but one of our employees that was staying in our camper at the time kept screwing them back in. I removed the bulbs altogether and they replaced them. Below is a pic from the plant that the light didn't reach and one of the plant closest to the light so you can see how much further the one is to harvest versus the other. I don't know if anyone can give me an estimation on how long the one will take before it is ready to harvest based on the bud development but you can see the one is way further along versus the other one.
This one is the closest to the light. It has still been growing in height.
This one is furthest away from the light. The light never reached this plant so it is on schedule.
This one is the closest to the light. It has still been growing in height.
This one is furthest away from the light. The light never reached this plant so it is on schedule.
OMG...I'd have put a note on the fixture that said "DO NOT F'KIN' TOUCH!"
Dustin84
Well-Known Member
I've found that helpful this year. Trimming only the worst parts off. Waiting for new growth. Trimming too much at once definitely stunts growth worse than leaving the spores.
Dustin84
Well-Known Member
Harvest times vary. Different breeds have different times, you're correct about the average times. From what I can see they still can go a bit. Could be picked.. I'm hoping next year I'll be able to push a few until first hard frostSome of my plants may not be as close to harvest as you think. Other people who have grown outside in VA say harvest is between mid- and late October. That being said, there is a flood light where my plants are. It was broken when I decided to put my plants there. Right when it was time for the plants to start transitioning to flower my husband fixed the light. I used the light to my advantage for a week to trick my plants into thinking the days were longer because I was dealing with a N deficiency at the time and I wanted to get it under control before they transitioned. After that, we put weaker light bulbs in. I tried to tell my husband the weaker bulbs were still too bright. He wouldn't believe me until the plant furthest away from the light started to flower and the ones closest were not. After that, I kept unscrewing the light bulbs but one of our employees that was staying in our camper at the time kept screwing them back in. I removed the bulbs altogether and they replaced them. Below is a pic from the plant that the light didn't reach and one of the plant closest to the light so you can see how much further the one is to harvest versus the other. I don't know if anyone can give me an estimation on how long the one will take before it is ready to harvest based on the bud development but you can see the one is way further along versus the other one.
This one is the closest to the light. It has still been growing in height.
This one is furthest away from the light. The light never reached this plant so it is on schedule.
Sativa1970
Well-Known Member
Didn't you start flowering early and mid august? So you are into week 6 and 7ish. We are pretty close in environment and latitude. I don't ever remember harvesting more than a week after Halloween. Those were my 14 week flower plants. If the plant is stressed it will stop adding bulk to the flowers and just focus on ripening. So if you loose too much veg or bad weather it will still ripen with a lower yield. Just by the pistols it looks like the top pic has 2 or 3 weeks and second pic 1 or 2.
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- #158
I tried but someone kept messing with the floodlight. I guess they were scared of the dark. The plant that is closest to the light is still stretching, which I read that some plants can stretch for up to 4 weeks, which I guess is what this plant is doing. And if you look at the buds on that plant compared to the one that never got any light interference you can see how much more developed the buds are on the plant that didn't receive any light interference.
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- #159
I have read that the more hours of daylight you lose also encourages the plant to ripen instead of putting energy into bud building.
budnoob3
Well-Known Member
You are correct, worst case a photo will attempt to revert to vegetation stage with too much light interference and will spend most of its energy attempting to do so vs bud development. Not the end of the world, you’ll still get some good buds but the yield and quality will suffer a bit…