Is this leaf septoria? If so, what should I do?

The forecast has changed and I have a big problem. A freeze warning has been issued.

budnoob3 said:
Frost is what really needs to be avoided at all costs. I always protect with tent, tarp, moving blankets etc when temps get below 40f or so to be safe
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Have you used covers to prevent freeze or just frost? I see they have freeze protection clothes and plant jackets online but I will not be able to have them shipped in time. I am going to check locally tomorrow for one that protect against freezing and not just frost but I don't have high hopes on finding one locally that will be large enough to cover my plants. I will also need to find a way to keep the material from laying directly on my plants as some of the branches are already struggling to support the weight of the buds, the weight of material heavy enough to prevent freeze may end up breaking some branches.

InTheShed said:
Or a smudge pot:
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Having an open flame that close to my house scares me. Especially since we had a burn band yesterday. It hasn't rained since the 1.5 weeks of rain a few weeks ago that sparked my mold issues and the humidity yesterday was only in the high 30s low 40s range.


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I do not want to harvest early if it can be avoided. My plants are still drinking plenty of water and have a lot of clear trichomes. After tomorrows freeze the night temps are supposed to go back to the 40s and 50s with daytime temps in the 70s and 80s. If my plants survive tomorrow night I will order some freeze protection jackets for them as I am entering November and my plants are not ready for harvest, which is not the normal for cannabis grown in my area.

When I reflect back on the events that took place with the flood light that is the cause of my plants not being ready yet I want to say that light probably added 3 to 4 weeks onto flowering time. I used the light for a week to intentionally delay flowering to allow my plants some additional time to recover from me burning them with neem oil, then it was probably another week after that to convince my husband that the light would interfere with them going into flower. He kept telling me to stop believing everything I read online. It took me showing him the one plant furthest away from the light was transitioning to flower when the rest were not. Then another week or two of the dumbass who kept turning them on and forgetting to turn them back off. I guess at this point I need to watch the weather very closely and if the plants are not ready by the time the nighttime temps enter and stay in the 30s I will need to harvest early.
 
First question is do you have warm enough day temps to continue the flowering if you survive the night? If so you can make a pup tent out of rope, 2 posts and sheets. It doesn't take much when just a few deg bellow freezing. The ground will radiate enough heat to keep you above freezing if you catch it.

Second question, can we all get lower insurance if we don't live in Virginia?
 
Lovie said:
The forecast has changed and I have a big problem. A freeze warning has been issued.
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A freeze warning is different than a frost warning. Most of the time the first several frosts are not a real problem. If you are worried throwing a bed sheet or light weight blanket over the plants is enough to get them through a cold night.

In the past my outdoor plants have survived being covered with snow. And, there are photos of other grower's plants covered with frost and sometimes snow and surviving without any damage.

One of my little experiments when leaving plants outside even with frost, freezing and snow conditions....
https://www.420magazine.com/community/threads/we-are-past-the-frost-warnings-or-the-lady-finally-sang-the-last-song.474763/
 
Also,
"You don't need much air movement to keep frost from forming, so even a gentle breeze will do the trick. A single fan per four-foot by four-foot garden bed should provide enough air circulation. Place the fan a few feet higher than the garden bed so warm air gets pushed downward. This method is best for greenhouses since you'll need to protect the fan from the elements."

4 ways to protect your plants from frost and preserve their vibrance through cold weather

Covering plants with sheets is the most effective way to guard a garden from frost, but you can also try water jugs, fans, or cloches.
www.businessinsider.com
 
Sativa1970 said:
First question is do you have warm enough day temps to continue the flowering if you survive the night? If so you can make a pup tent out of rope, 2 posts and sheets. It doesn't take much when just a few deg bellow freezing. The ground will radiate enough heat to keep you above freezing if you catch it.
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For the next week yes. The daytime temps for the next week is high 60s to low 80s depending on the day and nighttime temps high 40s to low 50s. It is just tonight that is the concern. I am not sure what daytime temps become an issue for flower but I am sure we are not there yet. I measured and 2 of my plants will fit on our enclosed porch which is just feet away from where they are. I watered them 3 days ago so hopefully they have drank enough that I can move them without too much issue. They are in 20-gallon airpots. The airpots do not have any weight to them either. One of my plants is 4 to 5 inches too tall. I think I am going to try to move that one onto the porch too and try to gently bend the top over or lean it against something, so it is at an angle. My husband is on lifting restrictions because he injured his back so if I cannot find any help with the 4th one I am going to drag it to the garage using the wench on my 4-wheeler. The pot is sitting on top a piece of plyboard so hopefully it will scoot along without much issue.
Sativa1970 said:
Second question, can we all get lower insurance if we don't live in Virginia?
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Haha.....anyone can get cheaper insurance if they don't live along the VA I-95 corridor of the DC commuters.
 
For outside plants I usually wait for them to really slow down, so where they might have needed water every day in full flower, now the soil is still wet 3 or 4 days after watering.
 
InTheShed said:
For outside plants I usually wait for them to really slow down, so where they might have needed water every day in full flower, now the soil is still wet 3 or 4 days after watering.
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Since they transitioned to flower I normally have been watering them every 4 days. They are in 20-gallon containers. I take the hose and fill until there is a couple of inches sitting on top the soil, I go down the row, then repeat until there is evidence the water has made it to the bottom. Normally it takes 4 to 5 times of me adding water to each pot before I can see the bottom is wet. Today I only added water to each pot twice. After the second time I added water there was still water sitting on top of the soil when I went to do the 3rd pass. Normally the soil absorbs the water very fast so when I saw there was still some sitting on the top the soil I didn't even check to see if the bottom was wet.

Once they start slowing down on water would you say they have a week? Two weeks? I am hoping they will be done within a week. They are calling for rain in 5 days. Depending on how much rain they are calling for I may harvest early. I will decide when we are closer to that date for a more accurate forecast.
 
If you normally water every 4 days and now they don't need water after 6 or 7 I'd call them done. Of course, weather plays a role in the decision as well! :thumb:
 
Sativa1970 said:
Curious why you are using watering as a gauge? It will get you a long range idea of where they are at, but why use that metric now? Why not use trichomes or pistols? Feel like I missed something here.
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I have been looking at the trichomes too but since they are outside their are a lot of amber ones and it's throwing me off. I used just the trichomes as a guide for the one plant that I harvested and I think maybe I should have waited longer after trying the final product. Also, the trichomes look different depending on the bud I am looking at. Some buds I don't see hardly any milky colored trichomes, it's mostly amber or clear. Other buds I do see milky trichomes. I guess I am looking for a 2nd method to backup looking at the trichomes since I am not sure what they are telling me at this point.
 
Sativa1970 said:
Curious why you are using watering as a gauge? It will get you a long range idea of where they are at, but why use that metric now? Why not use trichomes or pistols? Feel like I missed something here.
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Here's my thought:

@Amy Gardner told me years ago that trichomes will amber in the sun having nothing to do with ripeness, so they should be ignored in terms of gauging when to harvest. @BeezLuiz proved that point by having his outdoor harvests tested after chopping them based on a tent-based reading of the clear/cloudy/amber trichome mix. It turned out that the THC was much lower than expected with zero CBN, which should have been present in the presence of amber trichs. Here are his tests results.

He and I both use a new gauge for harvest timing outside now, and that is a clear/cloudy percentage range, along with a marked slowdown in water uptake and change in smell.
 
InTheShed said:
Here's my thought:

@Amy Gardner told me years ago that trichomes will amber in the sun having nothing to do with ripeness, so they should be ignored in terms of gauging when to harvest. @BeezLuiz proved that point by having his outdoor harvests tested after chopping them based on a tent-based reading of the clear/cloudy/amber trichome mix. It turned out that the THC was much lower than expected with zero CBN, which should have been present in the presence of amber trichs. Here are his tests results.

He and I both use a new gauge for harvest timing outside now, and that is a clear/cloudy percentage range, along with a marked slowdown in water uptake and change in smell.
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I bought a cheap microscope camera. I have also noticed the color of the trichomes look different based on what resolution I use. Looking at the same bud using a lower resolution seems to show the clear ones more and higher resolutions make them appear more white. As I am typing this I just had a thought come to mind that may be messing with my results. My microscope camera has lights. Maybe I should turn the lights off, the lighting may be reflecting in the trichomes making clear ones appear to be white.
 
I try to take a few different pics with the light on, light off in the sun, and light off in the shade. I feel like I can get a better feeling for what's really going on.
 
InTheShed said:
I try to take a few different pics with the light on, light off in the sun, and light off in the shade. I feel like I can get a better feeling for what's really going on.
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I will tomorrow. I just tried now but there is a breeze. To get a decent pic I need the plant still and something to lay the camera on because my hands are not steady.

And one of my Sour Diesels is making it more difficult because it decided to grow a second set of pistols so I have about a 50/50 mix of red and white pistols on that one.
 
Lovie said:
And one of my Sour Diesels is making it more difficult because it decided to grow a second set of pistols so I have about a 50/50 mix of red and white pistols on that one.
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I feel like waiting for late arriving pistils to ripen outside is a fool's errand. Unless you're in a tropical climate of course. :)

Another reason to let the rest of the plant tell you when to harvest.
 
I have tried for over an hour and only managed to get one decent pic that is not out of focus. I don't know because of it being a cheap camera, unsteady hands or the little bit of breeze we have or probably a combination of all of the above. I have been using as a microscope only at this point because trying to take pics with it is just frustrating.

I am wanting something that give you a little body tingle without gluing you to the couch. What are the thoughts based on this pic? How much longer would you say I have?

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Lovie said:
I am wanting something that give you a little body tingle without gluing you to the couch. What are the thoughts based on this pic? How much longer would you say I have?
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If you were in a tent I'd say you have 10 days. Outside in November it may not get much riper if the weather's gotten colder.
 
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