I believe so (that's how it works in the world), but it will probably need to be warm for a while before you use it to allow the microbes to get active again. I'd check with the LOS folks for a better description of the process.
Is this leaf septoria? If so, what should I do?
- Thread starter Lovie
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- #402
I think it's time to harvest one of my Green Crack plants. I watered it 4 days ago. The soil is very damp on this plant were there other 3 it's a little damp. Also, the plant doesn't have a lot of fan leaves left but a couple of the fan leaves towards the bottom are a lighter shade of green compared to the rest and if you feel them they are very dry feeling.
If you look at the fan leaf on the bottom of the bud I am holding and the one in the top right corner you will see what I am talking about.
I clipped a bud and took some trichome pics. There are very few clear trichomes. There are also very few amber ones, which I am not looking for couch lock, just a slight body tingle. I know some plants the trichomes do not amber. Does this apply to outdoor plants too?
The light on my camera is turned up higher on this pic.
Also, they are calling for rain. This plant is already struggling with the weight of dry buds. Wet buds may be too much for this plant to handle.
So, the question is do I harvest or protect from the rain?
Edit: I just noticed the pic of the cop car in the background of the first pic so I thought it would be best to mention before anyone freaks that it is no longer a police car. We bought it at an auction. My husband is a big Mopar fan and having a Challenger with a police package would interest in Mopar fan.
If you look at the fan leaf on the bottom of the bud I am holding and the one in the top right corner you will see what I am talking about.
I clipped a bud and took some trichome pics. There are very few clear trichomes. There are also very few amber ones, which I am not looking for couch lock, just a slight body tingle. I know some plants the trichomes do not amber. Does this apply to outdoor plants too?
The light on my camera is turned up higher on this pic.
Also, they are calling for rain. This plant is already struggling with the weight of dry buds. Wet buds may be too much for this plant to handle.
So, the question is do I harvest or protect from the rain?
Edit: I just noticed the pic of the cop car in the background of the first pic so I thought it would be best to mention before anyone freaks that it is no longer a police car. We bought it at an auction. My husband is a big Mopar fan and having a Challenger with a police package would interest in Mopar fan.
I believe that's more related to the variety than where it's grown. Mostly I've seen that in sativas rather than indicas or hybrids.
Any time you can keep the rain off your plants is good, but those stems look flexible enough to handle the weight. And if something does break you can tape it up.
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- #404
According to Herbies where I got the seeds from it is 65% Sativa. This is the plant I lost the top half to when it snapped in half due to the weight of wet buds during the 1.5 weeks of rain at the end of September so you can understand why the rain scares me at this point. This plant was fimmed. The top 2 colas were 3.5 ft long by themselves and very heavy so I guess it isn't that surprising they snapped with the weight of the rain. Messed up part is when I woke up that morning I saw my plants struggling with the weight, I went out and bought some stakes, got home to find it snapped in half. I wonder if I was an hour too late or just minutes too late.
I just don't feel like dealing with harvesting today. My kid was nice enough to share their strep with me so while they are now feeling better I want to curl up in a ball, pull a blanket over my head and lock the door so nobody can bother me. I don't know why but it seems like coodies that come from kids are super charged. So, I put a beach umbrella over that plant and secured any branches on the rest of them that looked liked they needed it. Most of the branches are already secured from the last rain so I think I am good. Anything that breaks over the night will just get repaired tomorrow or hang to dry if too damaged to repair.
I just don't feel like dealing with harvesting today. My kid was nice enough to share their strep with me so while they are now feeling better I want to curl up in a ball, pull a blanket over my head and lock the door so nobody can bother me. I don't know why but it seems like coodies that come from kids are super charged. So, I put a beach umbrella over that plant and secured any branches on the rest of them that looked liked they needed it. Most of the branches are already secured from the last rain so I think I am good. Anything that breaks over the night will just get repaired tomorrow or hang to dry if too damaged to repair.
Sativa1970
Well-Known Member
This time of year my 3 kids knew there winter names. Typhoid marry ( I'm not sick), pea tree dish ( mutated for round 2), and plague ( just wants to snuggle when sick). Get well soon lovie.
What strains are you waiting on to ripen? I find that Thai is the strain really does not like to amber. A Thai hybrid can carry that trait. Several others are reluctant but not near as stubborn as Thai.
What strains are you waiting on to ripen? I find that Thai is the strain really does not like to amber. A Thai hybrid can carry that trait. Several others are reluctant but not near as stubborn as Thai.
If the ingredients added to the base soil or dirt still need to decompose then it can take a month or so before the nutrients are available for the plant.
I have seen charts that will give an idea of how long it takes different ingredients to break down in a soil mix.
A well built soil mix will have several ingredients which will provide the same nutrient. Some ingredients break down quickly and some can take 30 or more days. The plant can absorb the first batch of the nutrient and when that one has been used up the second ingredient which adds the same nutrient has decomposed enough that it becomes available.
This can be especially important for the 3 macro nutrients which are needed in large amounts through the entire life cycle. The amounts needed can change but it is important to have each be available when needed.
Many of the current popular fertilizer mixes come with schedules which will provide the needed nutrients based on the week or age of the plant.
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- #407
Thanks a million!
2 Green Crack and 2 Sour Diesel. The pic I posted yesterday was of one of my Green Cracks. It's the only one with very few amber trichomes. I will probably harvest it later today depending on how I feel after the first half of the day. If I don't do it today then defiantly tomorrow. The Chocolate Thai I had in the tent did amber, and my other Green Crack plant has ambers. It's just this one that doesn't......but if you take everything else into consideration this plant is about done. Bottom fan leaves are starting to turn a lighter shade of green and dry up, water consumption has slowed a lot and the pistol hairs are red and curled.
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- #408
I had one cola break off last night. If it was still in veg I could tape it with no issue but I am thinking with being in flower and it being woodened where it broke I need to cut and hang it but want some of you experienced growers to weigh in on the decision.
I don't see anything broken on this plant but the wind really leaned it over. Thankfully I secured the bottom of this plant or probably would be dealing with some root damage.
I don't see anything broken on this plant but the wind really leaned it over. Thankfully I secured the bottom of this plant or probably would be dealing with some root damage.
Sativa1970
Well-Known Member
Cut and hang. Tape up the wound. Consider it a staggered harvest.
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- #410
I am getting ready to harvest everything. The forecast has changed it is supposed to get into the low 30s tonight and tomorrow night followed by rain after that.
When I harvested my last plant I removed the fan leaves and made sure to cut them back all the way to the stalk. When watching videos on trimming I don't see anyone else doing this. The main reason I had choose to do this when I harvested my last plant was because the last time I didn't remove the fan leaf's stems all the way to the stalk it sparked a mold outbreak. Now, when I had my mold outbreak it had been raining for 12 days straight and the weather was in the mid 70s so those are better conditions for mold.
I am doing a bud wash. I know the fan leaves need to come off first but do I need to take them all the way to the stalk/branch? I ask because taking all of them to the stalk is so time consuming. It took me 3 days to get that plant harvested. Now, I had constant interruptions. If I could have just started early one morning and work until the night it probably would have only taken a day (all day, not an 8 hour work day).
So, my question is how much of the fan leaf needs to come off? Is it more like doing a wet trim where only the portion of the leaves that are not covered in trichomes get removed or do I need to remove it all the way to the stalk.
I do plan on taking my blow-dryer on cool air and low fan speed to blow out any excess water in the buds when done. I don't know if that will influence anyone's answer......or if this isn't a good idea let me know that too.
When I harvested my last plant I removed the fan leaves and made sure to cut them back all the way to the stalk. When watching videos on trimming I don't see anyone else doing this. The main reason I had choose to do this when I harvested my last plant was because the last time I didn't remove the fan leaf's stems all the way to the stalk it sparked a mold outbreak. Now, when I had my mold outbreak it had been raining for 12 days straight and the weather was in the mid 70s so those are better conditions for mold.
I am doing a bud wash. I know the fan leaves need to come off first but do I need to take them all the way to the stalk/branch? I ask because taking all of them to the stalk is so time consuming. It took me 3 days to get that plant harvested. Now, I had constant interruptions. If I could have just started early one morning and work until the night it probably would have only taken a day (all day, not an 8 hour work day).
So, my question is how much of the fan leaf needs to come off? Is it more like doing a wet trim where only the portion of the leaves that are not covered in trichomes get removed or do I need to remove it all the way to the stalk.
I do plan on taking my blow-dryer on cool air and low fan speed to blow out any excess water in the buds when done. I don't know if that will influence anyone's answer......or if this isn't a good idea let me know that too.
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- #411
And in my random thoughts I have a completely off-topic question.....maybe better for a new thread but here it goes. So to monster crop a plant you take a clone during week 2 or 3 of flower and revert it back to veg. After a 3 to 4 weeks of really strange growth you are supposed to get an explosion of growth afterwards.
Well, what if you did that to the entire plant instead of just a clipping? I was wondering if after a plant was in veg for a couple of weeks and you transitioned it into flower for a couple of weeks, then revert it back to veg would the entire plant go through the 3 to 4 week of strange growth, followed by an explosion of growth afterwards or does that only work on clippings?
Well, what if you did that to the entire plant instead of just a clipping? I was wondering if after a plant was in veg for a couple of weeks and you transitioned it into flower for a couple of weeks, then revert it back to veg would the entire plant go through the 3 to 4 week of strange growth, followed by an explosion of growth afterwards or does that only work on clippings?
Snap the fans off completely, petiole included. It makes trimming much easier.
That might work with a 24" plant but I suggest a real fan for an hour to drive off the wash water.
The great growth on a monster crop clone comes from the plant starting the size of a clone with no branches and a few leaves. If you want an explosion of growth on an existing plant it's much easier just to top each branch. Also, how much bud a plant can generate is mainly determined by the size of the rootball, which is already established in a full sized plant. If you create too many additional branches at that stage you might end up with a large amount of smaller flowers.
Sativa1970
Well-Known Member
Defoliating a plant should not take that long. Defoliate, chop, wash and hang should be less than 2 hours per plant at a vary casual pace. Either that 8 hours was for several plants or you are being way too detailed.
Taking clones in flower delays the veg and ultimately extends the veg time. I do this a lot when I have a back up in the flower room and need to slow down the veg room. Both clones and monster crop are mature plants when they start veg so both can have a lot of lateral growth.
With monster dropping you are playing with hormones. In flower the hormones switch and the growth focuses on roots and flowers. Topping will not stop the roots. You then reveg and the hormones switch back over the next 2-3 weeks. The top is growing the sugar leaves into production leaves and the roots still continue to grow. Once you get new true leaves they have a massive root system to feed them fueling a growth explosion.
Taking clones in flower delays the veg and ultimately extends the veg time. I do this a lot when I have a back up in the flower room and need to slow down the veg room. Both clones and monster crop are mature plants when they start veg so both can have a lot of lateral growth.
- Thread starter
- #414
Yes, I have some OCD issues. On that plant that took forever it because I was removing every fan leaf all the way to the stalk/branch. If the fan leaf was coming out between a bud it takes a lot of care not to accidently cut the bud too. I was moving at a lot faster pace yesterday than I did on the other plant but obviously still being too detailed because I am nowhere near 2 hours a plant. Any tips or advise?
- Thread starter
- #415
Sounds like this might be best as an outdoor project for next year so it doesn't take over my tent.
Well, I would have to start the plant inside until the revet back to veg, then move outside.
Sativa1970
Well-Known Member
Just pop the leaf off at the stem or where it exits the bud. Part of the leaf inside the bud stays.
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- #417
So, I am doing the final clean-up of everything and trying to figure out what I can disinfect and what needs to be tossed due to the leaf septoria. I just broke the news all the soil I talked my husband into buying with the promise of I could amend and reuse it needs to be tossed because of the septoria. I am tossing the 50-gallon Fabric pot. I was wondering if I can disinfect the 20-gallon airpots, the PVC piping I used to hold my nets off of my plants and the bamboo sticks I used to support the plants? If they can be disinfected what is the best thing to use to make sure I kill the septoria. I never want to deal with that stuff again.
Also, should I get rid of the nets I was using to keep the bugs off my plants and wash them in the laundry machine in hot water, laundry detergent and bleach or toss? I think I am leaning towards tossing them since they ended up not being big enough anyway and they probably contributed to my plants getting septoria anyway.
Also, should I get rid of the nets I was using to keep the bugs off my plants and wash them in the laundry machine in hot water, laundry detergent and bleach or toss? I think I am leaning towards tossing them since they ended up not being big enough anyway and they probably contributed to my plants getting septoria anyway.
If the foliage near your house has septoria you won't be able to prevent it from coming back outside next year no matter how much you clean your accessories.
Also, "septoria can also persist on wood and metal equipment, such as plant stakes and cages."
So I would imagine that it would on PVC and bamboo as well. In terms of how to get rid of it:
"[Y]ou should be cleaning your metal tomato cages before storing them for winter. Start by getting off all the debris, soil and leaf matter.
Next, disinfect them with a 10% bleach solution that you can pour into a spray bottle and spritz onto the metal. That solution will kill some of the fungus that tends to overwinter on metal, like septoria leaf spot.
Cleaning metal tomato cages before you store them should get rid of most issues, and then you'll be ready to set them up again next year."
[emphasis mine]
https://www.vermontpublic.org/show/...-cleaning-tomato-cages-hydrangeas-prep-winter
Make sure you wear appropriate clothing and protect your lungs and eyes when using bleach.
Also, "septoria can also persist on wood and metal equipment, such as plant stakes and cages."
So I would imagine that it would on PVC and bamboo as well. In terms of how to get rid of it:
"[Y]ou should be cleaning your metal tomato cages before storing them for winter. Start by getting off all the debris, soil and leaf matter.
Next, disinfect them with a 10% bleach solution that you can pour into a spray bottle and spritz onto the metal. That solution will kill some of the fungus that tends to overwinter on metal, like septoria leaf spot.
Cleaning metal tomato cages before you store them should get rid of most issues, and then you'll be ready to set them up again next year."
[emphasis mine]
https://www.vermontpublic.org/show/...-cleaning-tomato-cages-hydrangeas-prep-winter
Make sure you wear appropriate clothing and protect your lungs and eyes when using bleach.
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- #419
My very first job when I was 15 was cleaning apartments between tenants. I learned the hard way about bleach. I burnt my palms and fingers with it. That was a miserable week. I couldn't stand to even wash my hair.
I was thinking about using some of the PVC pipe to make some new Scrog frames for my 4x4 tent but after what you just said I will pass. Right now I have one 4x4 frame. I am waiting until after Christmas to take on any more plant projects but I have a 2x4 and a 4x4 tent. I want to set up the 2x4 tent for a veg tent and the 4x4 for flower. Then start 1 new plant every 4 to 6 weeks that way I am dealing with more manageable harvests as I will only be harvesting one smaller plant every month to month and a half. I figured with a set up like that each plant should have it's own Scrog frame vs trying to share one.
If you're interested in a creative way to have a scrog for each plant, check out @The rooster's build method here (below is what on-site links look like now):
This is the finished product:
This is the finished product: