Fanleaf's Huge 42 COB Array Build Plus Other Builds

[kelticBlue]

Impressive I must say. And looking forward to your tests.

So if you curious I had planned on running this kit from rapid LED.
10 Solderless LED Low Profile Rooting Kit - Rapid LED

Super cool kit!!!!

i do a small tent meself. If I recall off the top of me head 36 inch high, 30 wide, and 18 deep.
it is challenging with heat, Keeping the plants in training and such.
Little kits like this always appeal to me. Just in case I need a backup plan or some such catastrophic things.

Cheers.

 

[fanleaf]

Just doing some work under the small 25 cxb3590 array room. Have Incredible Bulk at exactly 1 month old and under some heavy training. Shes gonna have a ton of good tops by the time I flower her.

Then a White Widdow X Big Bud doing the same

They are getting ready for 12/12 as soon as this dang gum Bloody Skunk finishes up. She should have been done a few weeks ago.

Sent from my android from outer space!

 

[Lost In Nugs]

Looks like the HLG-320H-C1050 could drive 6 up to about 50W if I'm seeing that right.

Yea, looks like its right about perfect. 320W, maybe a littlebit more, 152-305V. Bout $100 to 120€. 800mA should be the sweet spot, maybe 850 to use the full wattage of the driver. But i did the math on Generation 5 Data Sheet, there should be a Gen6 already or coming out soon, at least for their smaller Cobs. But what i learned is that they are just a littlebit more efficient at the higher currents, maybe they have a better thermal resistance, i dont know.

About pricing. What are you guys paying for Vero29.7, Clu0581825, CLU0481212 and the Chips you use in the US?

Over here in Central Europe the prices are nuts. I ordered my CLU0481212 from Estonia, thats almost Russia. When i buy 180 chips i pay 4,5€/pcs, anything under 180 is about 7-8€. I just recieved 5 of them yesterday to see how they perform in real life. payed 55€ including the matching holders and i am still Looking out for a good driver from meanwell. In my Country its 19€/pcs without a holder. . The Clu0581825 is over 60€ until i can finally get my new estonian friend to grab some of them.

I am looking forward for your par testing. Are you on RIU?

 

[Lost In Nugs]

I am using the same type of pots. Are these 7,5L? I put some of my clones in the 1L Versions and hope they get a massive rootball in them right away.
can fit 6 of the 7,5L in my Garden. I try to imagine how thick these stems are and whats the secret of getting these in 4 weeks.

 

[fanleaf]

Guys, I been trying to figure out a more scientific way to do a par video. While we wait for that I did take a helper to the tent to write down my par samples and we took a ton of them. That way I can at least give you guys an idea for now.

Every chip at 30W for a total of 1260W in the room

Left reflectors on chips around the edges of the room. Removed all other reflectors. I took 20 samples of every one of the following numbers. Starting at the wall, 3 more across and 1 at the opposite wall. (hope that makes sense lol.
30Watts per chip
10" on 20 samples was an average ppfd of 763
12" on 20 samples was an average ppfd of 659.5
16" on 20 samples was an average ppfd of 549.5
24" on 20 samples was an average ppfd of 536
30" on 20 samples was an average ppfd of 509.5
36" on 20 samples was an average ppfd of 473

45W per chip for a total of 1890W

10" average 1096
16" average 878.25
30" average 802.75
36" average 733.75

Full power. 2480W

10" average 1337.5
18" average 1045.3
36" average 900.0
40" average 833.6

9 OF THE 5000K CHIPS RUNNING FULL OUT ALL OTHER CHIPS AS DIM AS THEY CAN.

ONLY 800W FOR THE WHOLE TENT
18" average 361.7

I don't know for sure if that is sufficient enough for a good veg only. I will research a bit on that. I may have to run some of the 3000k chips at 15Watts or so.

 

[fanleaf]

Yea, looks like its right about perfect. 320W, maybe a littlebit more, 152-305V. Bout $100 to 120€. 800mA should be the sweet spot, maybe 850 to use the full wattage of the driver. But i did the math on Generation 5 Data Sheet, there should be a Gen6 already or coming out soon, at least for their smaller Cobs. But what i learned is that they are just a littlebit more efficient at the higher currents, maybe they have a better thermal resistance, i dont know.

About pricing. What are you guys paying for Vero29.7, Clu0581825, CLU0481212 and the Chips you use in the US?

Over here in Central Europe the prices are nuts. I ordered my CLU0481212 from Estonia, thats almost Russia. When i buy 180 chips i pay 4,5€/pcs, anything under 180 is about 7-8€. I just recieved 5 of them yesterday to see how they perform in real life. payed 55€ including the matching holders and i am still Looking out for a good driver from meanwell. In my Country its 19€/pcs without a holder. . The Clu0581825 is over 60€ until i can finally get my new estonian friend to grab some of them.

I am looking forward for your par testing. Are you on RIU?

Cree is getting ready to release a new generation as well. Probably $200 per chip lol. But Ive heard guys say they are going to smoke the 3590's.

I'm not sure on some of them but the 1825's are $44.50 each from the guy I like to buy from. The 1212's are $13.25

 

[fanleaf]

I am using the same type of pots. Are these 7,5L? I put some of my clones in the 1L Versions and hope they get a massive rootball in them right away.
can fit 6 of the 7,5L in my Garden. I try to imagine how thick these stems are and whats the secret of getting these in 4 weeks.

Those are 5 gallon or 20 liter pots. I usually use my 7 gallon/28 liter pots but I wanted to try my 20 liter ones this round. My plants always have HUGE rootballs even in the 13 gallon/50 liter pots I have.
Heres a rootball on a male that was veged for 8 weeks in a 13 gallon/50 liter pot.

 

[fanleaf]

My initial par test numbers shown above tell me that if I do a scrog or similar at 30W for 1260W at 10" from canopy I could do some amazing chit! Those numbers have the potential for a massive gram per watt harvest. About 800 at the canopy is where guys have done 1.9GPW on these chips. Saves roughly 1140 watts vs hps or my blurple 3W panels.

Also tells me that if I run at 45W or so for a total of 1890W I'm pretty unlimited in the way I can grow and save chit tons of power because I would normally run at least 4X 600W of hps in that size area. Saves 710W roughly in that scenario.


Of coarse I will have an easier time controlling heat and such as well.

 

[Lost In Nugs]

Yeah when i removed my pots after my first grow i could almost stand on the rootball without breaking it. These pots are awesome. How thick is this stem in the picture? Looking superb! Is there a journal with more Information on them plants?

Thanks for all the Input
What really would get my attention would be a infrared thermometer on the center of your chips at different wattages. As you can see in my tiny thread i am a lil concerned about the temperatures

 

[fanleaf]

Yeah when i removed my pots after my first grow i could almost stand on the rootball without breaking it. These pots are awesome. How thick is this stem in the picture? Looking superb! Is there a journal with more Information on them plants?

Thanks for all the Input
What really would get my attention would be a infrared thermometer on the center of your chips at different wattages. As you can see in my tiny thread i am a lil concerned about the temperatures

I will test it but Im sure they will be more than fine. I used the same sinks I used on my smaller array. They are over 100mmX80mm and rated for 85W each.
Ive ran my other arrays chips at 80w for extended periods and things stayed stable.
Good call though, ill check it.

Sent from my android from outer space!

 

[fanleaf]

Seymore. Im going to put part of our PM's out there for everyone just because I think there is some valuable information that many others could probably use as well.......

Are you dimming with a simple potentiometer too? I am and i hope you can answer me that...

So i use a 100k potentiometer, i put a 10k resistor to the negative side to insure that the minimum is 10 percent of power. If i would solder another 10k resistor to the positive end, would i limit the maximum power to 90 percent, 20k resistor to 80 percent... ? I really hope thats the case to limit my Driver a littlebit. Possible 69W out of the 81W just seems too much and i want them cooler then 240F[/QUOTE]

My response.
You know. I think it may not work that way by putting another resistor on the pos end. I could be wrong. I can check soon though. I would think it really wouldnt matter what side the resistor is on it would do the same thing. The more resistance it sees the more power the driver puts out. With 1 resistor on both sides you would essentially have 2 resistors in series so double the resitance. I think maybe a 75k ohm potentiometer would be the way to go to limit the power out below 100%. This array isnt using any resistors but I have them on hand. Pretty soon I could take the control panel down and throw in a resistor on one and two resistors on a different one and we can figure it out together.

Sent from my android from outer space!

 

[Lost In Nugs]

Haha, i thought about you Posting this might be a good idea. 2 guys 1 thought

I really have to give this a try when i take my temporary light apart and complete the real thing.

In a perfext world it would be like this, hopefully we can verify that

That positive-side-resistor before the signal arrive in the potentiometer keeps bugging me. If its not working this way it would not be a big deal, just dont turn the knob too far, lol, but i guess you understand me when we want that special extra thingy and try to understand the crap we are designing. .

I am Looking for a Apogee MQ-XXX... Which model would you suggest? Money isnt an issue because it will be sent back after CAREFUL testing (theres a law here, you can return items within 14 days without a reason, even when used)

Then i can take notes whats the PPFD at different distances/wattages

 

[fanleaf]

Haha, i thought about you Posting this might be a good idea. 2 guys 1 thought

I really have to give this a try when i take my temporary light apart and complete the real thing.

In a perfext world it would be like this, hopefully we can verify that

That positive-side-resistor before the signal arrive in the potentiometer keeps bugging me. If its not working this way it would not be a big deal, just dont turn the knob too far, lol, but i guess you understand me when we want that special extra thingy and try to understand the crap we are designing. .

I am Looking for a Apogee MQ-XXX... Which model would you suggest? Money isnt an issue because it will be sent back after CAREFUL testing (theres a law here, you can return items within 14 days without a reason, even when used)

Then i can take notes whats the PPFD at different distances/wattages

The Apogee MQ-500 is the newest one and the best one. Thats the one I have as well.

Sent from my android from outer space!

 

[fanleaf]

Yeah, i think the way to make the dimmer go from 10%-90% will be a resistor inline with a lesser than 100k ohm potentiometer. What values for each will depend on what model driver and how many cobs its pushing. For instance my 5000k chips. There are 3 on every 240-2100 driver and I can turn them down to almost off but not off. While the 6 of the 3000k on the 320-1400 drivers can go from off to 100%. A small resistor on the 6 chips would make them like the 5000k setup.

Sent from my android from outer space!

 

[fanleaf]

Ya know....If a guy wanted to get super fancy it would be so very simple to use a timer relay like this one......

And they could totally automate their lights to come on at say 60% for 4 hours and then it could bump up to 80% for a few hours and go to 90% and slowly back down at the "evening" time until lights out time....

Sent from my android from outer space!

 

[DirtManDan]

All I see is a tree trunk and something that reminds me of cotton candy! lol

 

[DirtManDan]

So despite you fine gentlemen telling me that there may be better options for me out there for my choice in LED's. I decided to go with the XML2's any way. Plese note that your words did not fall on deaf ears. I plan on doing a big boy COB build. But im gonna have to save it for when I get a big boy tent. I went with the smaller diodes for a couple reasons.
First: Being like I stated before, I wanna maximize coverage so I plan on taking the heat sinks and welding some aluminum brackets to them. I'm going to fab them up at work, making myself a false ceiling for my box. Everything is gonna drop right onto the rails for the tent, pull the top over, run the wire out the hole and done. No modifying the tent.
Second: The kit I chose is super easy to put together, and im kinda lazy lol. All the wiring is almost done and you can plug and play with the chip to chip wires. I really like that, plus they use thermal stickers so I don't have to mess with thermal grease or adhesive.
Third: I contacted the company about running some dimmable drivers or driver. Turns out they don't carry one that will run all 20 and dim, but they do have replacements for the 10 chip drivers that you can run potentiometers off of. for an extra $5 each, I obviously upgraded to those.
Four: You Warned me about heat. I'm well aware I'm going to get some heat off of this build, And im ok with that. Where I live it can get fairly cold during the winter and hot during the summer. but where my box is located is near a window. So I could benefit from the heat in the winter time and have more than enough fan power to cool it in the summer. Plus the window its next to gets the AC unit come 80+ degree weather. I actually have the fans turned way down now because its cold and im only keeping high 70's.
Final: I plan on keeping this box around even after I upgrade. maybe a mother tent or something. So I want it to look nice hence the no hacking the top up part... Its already got a nicely done fan controller and I think I did a pretty good job with the custom wire harness I wound up having to make for the 3 fans, controller, and power supply. Im gonna try and find a box I can fit the fan controller in and add the dimmers to it as well and have it as a whole control unit on my desk top. Where my fan controller currently sits.
I thank you again if i haven't already for your help. But I want to see my "grand scheme" work itself out. I hope you boys will follow me as well when I get to doing my build and second round of growing.

 

[fanleaf]

So despite you fine gentlemen telling me that there may be better options for me out there for my choice in LED's. I decided to go with the XML2's any way. Plese note that your words did not fall on deaf ears. I plan on doing a big boy COB build. But im gonna have to save it for when I get a big boy tent. I went with the smaller diodes for a couple reasons.
First: Being like I stated before, I wanna maximize coverage so I plan on taking the heat sinks and welding some aluminum brackets to them. I'm going to fab them up at work, making myself a false ceiling for my box. Everything is gonna drop right onto the rails for the tent, pull the top over, run the wire out the hole and done. No modifying the tent.
Second: The kit I chose is super easy to put together, and im kinda lazy lol. All the wiring is almost done and you can plug and play with the chip to chip wires. I really like that, plus they use thermal stickers so I don't have to mess with thermal grease or adhesive.
Third: I contacted the company about running some dimmable drivers or driver. Turns out they don't carry one that will run all 20 and dim, but they do have replacements for the 10 chip drivers that you can run potentiometers off of. for an extra $5 each, I obviously upgraded to those.
Four: You Warned me about heat. I'm well aware I'm going to get some heat off of this build, And im ok with that. Where I live it can get fairly cold during the winter and hot during the summer. but where my box is located is near a window. So I could benefit from the heat in the winter time and have more than enough fan power to cool it in the summer. Plus the window its next to gets the AC unit come 80+ degree weather. I actually have the fans turned way down now because its cold and im only keeping high 70's.
Final: I plan on keeping this box around even after I upgrade. maybe a mother tent or something. So I want it to look nice hence the no hacking the top up part... Its already got a nicely done fan controller and I think I did a pretty good job with the custom wire harness I wound up having to make for the 3 fans, controller, and power supply. Im gonna try and find a box I can fit the fan controller in and add the dimmers to it as well and have it as a whole control unit on my desk top. Where my fan controller currently sits.
I thank you again if i haven't already for your help. But I want to see my "grand scheme" work itself out. I hope you boys will follow me as well when I get to doing my build and second round of growing.

Hey man thats way cool. I will be following for sure. Those are neat kits. I have built some 730nm light bars with stuff just like what comes in your kits to induce flower.
Hey, like you said. Sometimes a little extra heat is needed. I look forward to seeing it..

Sent from my android from outer space!

 

[Lost In Nugs]

Wondering how much Watts of Far Red are needed per sqf and how close the diodes have to be to give them that special signal. I hope 12x5WDiodes@18W are enuff, would be 3W/sqf

 

[fanleaf]

The cheaper 730nm cobs I think are the way to go. They can be found online as infrared illuminators for security cams. That way they have lenses to project a bit more. Im going to give those a closer look.

I do run really strong uvb lights the last few weeks of flower for a 5-10+% THC over not using them. On for 15 minutes 1 or 2 times per lights on is way more than enough for those. In 15 minutes they gave me the worst sunburn ive ever had on my face and neck. Peeled my skin for a week. It was a painfull lesson.

Sent from my android from outer space!