Look for the DC output voltage and current label. If they were for retro fits, they're probably 24 volt. How many amps?
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Fair enough my friend, given the information you just told me, I am more than willing to accept to ditch that idea lol. Electrician said they were 600v after the ballast but I don’t believe that, I’m believing what your saying more. I’ve decided for now to put the cob build on hold for a little while. I’m currently in the process of building a clone and veg combo box, top 2’ for clones and the bottom section for veg A, both sections are just going to have CFL’s with ceiling fixtures for now. 2x3 box. Clone section will only have 3 fixtures, veg section will have 2 sets of 5 and I’m going to run 2 different spectrum bulbs and have each set of 5 going to a dimmer switch to give me a little control. I know they’re not led or cobs but they’re cheap, and effective as my cloner box I built has proven time and time again. My flower room is 5x6 and has 4 led panels that work pretty darn good for what they are. I do want to upgrade that room to cobs though sooner than later and I’d love to build a big panel like the one you built. That thing still going good and strong? Have you had any issues or glitches yet or anything you’d have done different?Sorry for showing up so late .
Sorry to say but those won't work to drive a single COB. The driving voltage and available current just isn't there. Those are made for 48" t8 or t12 shop lights. The t8 version is usually 12.5 watts at a very low voltages. The voltage and current capability wouldn't be enough to trigger a 36v or 50v cob to even turn on at its dimmest level. The t12's are usually 40w capable but again the voltage is still the issue. Sorry bud.
What model of heat sinks did you use. Did you build that frame? it looks pretty nice. And is that a dimmer i see on the right side?It’s taken some time with other projects going on, but I’ve finally gotten all the pieces for my 6 cob light for my 2x3 veg tent, and everything is up and running. And I must say all is a big thanks to this thread. Light consists of 6 Cree cxb3590’s in 3500k pushed by a hlg-320h-c1400b, turned down to roughly 30 watts a piece right now. Floating around 8” above my canopy, the plants seem to be loving the change out from blurples and my eyes are liking no strain from natural light. Now it’s time to start saving for a 28 cob panel for my flower room!
Those are the 140mm heat sinks from rapid, the frame was 3/4”x1/8” angle aluminum from Lowe’s which I cut to size then clamped, drilled and riveted. And yes sir that’s a dimmer on the front right, on the right side is 5 pin aviation style plug to disconnect everything as I have the driver mounted outside the tent to help keep more heat out. Switching from my blurple panel to this one drop my temps in this tent from an average of 78-80 degrees to a steady 68-70. And the kind words are appreciated. Got the motivation from FanLeaf. I’ll be building an 8 cob panel next for my 2’x4’ room then I’ll start on a 28 cob panel for the 5’x6’ flower roomWhat model of heat sinks did you use. Did you build that frame? it looks pretty nice. And is that a dimmer i see on the right side?
It definitely is an investment, this light for my 2x3’ cost roughly $500, however, it’s a long term investment that’s going to allow me to run less power than using blurples, and have less heat to deal with as well. And I don’t use lenses, just the Angelina reflectors, if memory serves me correctly, I believe fanleaf did a test with a lense and it performed worse?.. I could be wrong it has been a while since reading thru this thread and other cob builds but for some reason that sticks in my headMy next lights are going to be cobs too. Not looking to drop the cash right now but I was puting a part list together. Do you guys use the lenses? It looks like they would drop par and they seem expensive? I do appreciate your information, love this site for that, always learning just constant.
I read that too.and it performed worse
Update on how the plants like the light, they now stand 3 1/2’ tall, and are bushy as all hell, they’re becoming root bound in 10gal fabric pots and need to be up planted again soon, hopefully weather warms up soon enough to be able to bring them outside finally. They drink more water now, and are much healthier plants overall and have completely filled out my 2x3 tent very rapidly, I have even turned the light down more to try to slow them down a little bit. There is no way possible I’d see this kind of growth under a blurple, just no way. If it’s a question if you should build one of these lights or not, absolutely!I read that too.
I have been watching a great article in a serious! All this makes us awesome! Despite the years today has been, but I still want to try this diy! It's very disappointed, I can not see the wiring of the layout of the video! This makes me confused! Are you still in? If I may want to see the instrument, drive, and potentiometer detailed wiring! Thanks again! Peace!OK guys. I made a test run video.
I didn't have my 2 new 20 amp breakers wired into my houses breaker box yet so I ran off of 1 extension cord for the test. And to top it off it's one of those 100 foot standard orange cords. After the test I watched the video and that's when I seen the result of using 1 breaker through a skinny extension cord for the test. I knew doing that, that I couldn't run the whole room at full wattage but you will notice the input voltage drop. When nothings really on the voltage is only sitting at 115-116v but when I try to draw some power through that temporary orange cord you will see the input voltage sag down to 110V. That won't happen as soon as I get the 2 new breakers put in my houses breaker box. Then the voltage will be a steady 118-120v like it normally is.
The power adjustment of the finished light is adjustable from about 40 watts all the way to just shy of 2500 watts!
None the less, the test was a huge success!!!
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