Fanleaf's Huge 42 COB Array Build Plus Other Builds

King Jones said:
Thank you for the post and breakdown it starts to make more sense after reading it a few times. This post is a very good ready I'm like almost a 100 pages in

I did find the Samsung cob I want to run it hits every spot perfect or darn near it's their high cri cob d series 2

They are can cost a lot most sites sell this on in a pack of 160 and I only need about 12 max want some extras just in case but not 148 extra
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Is there a particular reason you want to use these COBs? Other brands are better known and easily available. Any difference in spectrum really isn't significant. It's a lot easier to add some red and/or far red, than try to find a "perfect" spectrum. Most users go with 80CRI because of the better efficiency, for instance.

I use SPHWH1L5N407XET5A1 – Octopart to find electronics and they only list Digikey in large volume. Other brands are far more available.

And you asked earlier how many COBs you might need. Aim for 40-50 watts per square foot, and about 50 watts per COB, depending.
 
Graytail said:
Is there a particular reason you want to use these COBs? Other brands are better known and easily available. Any difference in spectrum really isn't significant. It's a lot easier to add some red and/or far red, than try to find a "perfect" spectrum. Most users go with 80CRI because of the better efficiency, for instance.

I use SPHWH1L5N407XET5A1 – Octopart to find electronics and they only list Digikey in large volume. Other brands are far more available.

And you asked earlier how many COBs you might need. Aim for 40-50 watts per square foot, and about 50 watts per COB, depending.
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Honestly just wanted to try something new haven't seen anyone use that particular one and it look pretty darn good. The one you suggested it great as well I'm going to try and draw up a design. thank you so much mate with the help very appreciated
 
I would go with at least 36 COBs. 49 would allow you to run them closer and at a lower power per COB which some people have really liked. Just have to decide whether you want lower cost or higher performance.
 
KJ, I looked at the Samsung datasheet again today, and if I'm seeing the right numbers, these COBs aren't that great.

In part(b) they list "nominal power (sorting current)" as 37.4 watts for the LC040D, their best COB. Then in part(c) the LC040D 4000K has a luminous flux (lumens) of 4029 - 4241 at that sorting current.

So that's 108 - 113 Lumens per watt. :straightface: That's not even competitive. I'm getting 190 Lu/W with my boards.

This datasheet doesn't provide much info, but that seems pretty clear at least.
 
Graytail said:
KJ, I looked at the Samsung datasheet again today, and if I'm seeing the right numbers, these COBs aren't that great.

In part(b) they list "nominal power (sorting current)" as 37.4 watts for the LC040D, their best COB. Then in part(c) the LC040D 4000K has a luminous flux (lumens) of 4029 - 4241 at that sorting current.

So that's 108 - 113 Lumens per watt. :straightface: That's not even competitive. I'm getting 190 Lu/W with my boards.

This datasheet doesn't provide much info, but that seems pretty clear at least.
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Thank you for this how did you calculate that?
I guess I just need to go back and re read the 1st few pages again
 
Graytail said:
Hello King Jones - sorry no one answered you, but Fanleaf disappeared on us so the thread is pretty dead. :cheesygrinsmiley:

I
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I sure did Graytail. Today is the first day I have signed on in quite some time. I will be trying to get back in the normal swing of things on the forum.
 
fanleaf said:
I always put an inline meter with every driver. That makes it very easy to tune the room however you want. I use digital meters that read out line voltage, wattage, current and Watt hours. Heres a small picture.
I run 1 of these on every driver. That way I know how much Blue (5000K) and red (3000K) I'm running and I can keep the whole panel perfectly even from end to end.

meter7.JPG
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Hey fanleaf , welcome back. I've been trying to get help wiring some of the digital ameters into my 24 x clu048 1212 setup, with no luck.

I'm running 4 x MW HLG-320H-C1400B over 2 arrays, and each driver is running 6 cobs. I've added 2 x 50k potentiometers per array, so that each pot controls 2 drivers.

Been trying to figure out how I can wire in those meters, so that I can use 1 meter per 2 drivers. ( wired in series btw )

I ordered these thinking I'd got the right ones : DROK


DROK® Digital Multimeter DC 6.5-100V 20A Voltage Amperage Power Energy Meter DC Volt Amp Testing Gauge Monitor LCD Blue Backlight Digital Display with Built-in Shunt

Any advice on how I could do this please mate. I'd like to be able to make sure all the drivers are running the same when dimming etc.

Regards

Hukt
 
Did you make it through to the other side??
 
:popcorn:
 
Hey @fanleaf, I have a question for you, I’d like to build a couple cob lights of my own and came across 3 drivers for free, I’ll put a link to the data sheet for what I have, how many of the cobs that your running do you think I could put on each driver? I’m thinking 3 would possibly put them in the most efficient range? I’m a big DIYer but new to building led lights. Thanks for any input in advance and sorry if you see this on one of your other threads first, I meant to post it to this one, whoops lol

 
My guess would be none, because, according to the specification page you linked to, those are ballasts for powering T8 fluorescent bulbs.

Good thing they were free.
 
TorturedSoul said:
My guess would be none, because, according to the specification page you linked to, those are ballasts for powering T8 fluorescent bulbs.

Good thing they were free.
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Normally I would agree with you in a heartbeat on that statement, but these were extras from an led retrofit for switching some t8 fixtures in a shop over to led. If they’re not suitable to run cobs with, that much I’ll be willing to accept lol. I think they say T8 because that’s the fixture type they’re retrofitting, I honestly have no clue :hmmmm: I do know that it was a licensed electrician wiring these in and using led bulbs and they’ve had no issues in over a month. If they’re suitable then that’s motivation to build a cob light if not, well, I still want to but it will be on hold till the funds are there haha
 
Well, I'm guessing here, but my guess is that an electrician installs such things in fixtures which have older types of (fluorescent) ballasts so that there won't be any issues with the new LED retrofit bulbs - which are designed to simply swap right in to newer fluorescent fixtures.

Or, alternatively, the electrician might have used the type of LED tubes that require bypassing the ballasts, in which case those ballasts wouldn't be extras, they'd be "pulls."

See options one and two, here:

5 Ways to Convert Your Fluorescent Light Fixtures to LED

5 Ways to Convert Your Fluorescent Light Fixtures to LED We're often asked, "How do you replace fluorescent tubes with LED?" and "Which LED replacement for fluorescent is best?" In this article, we break down the advantages and disadvantages of each fluorescent-to-LED option. If you have...
www.eledlights.com

My (again) guess is that it's the first thing I typed in this post. In which case, you could use them - by purchasing a set of the same type of LED retrofit tubes that the electrician installed in those fixtures.

I could, of course, be entirely wrong here. But I'm feeling pretty confident ;) .
 
TorturedSoul said:
Well, I'm guessing here, but my guess is that an electrician installs such things in fixtures which have older types of (fluorescent) ballasts so that there won't be any issues with the new LED retrofit bulbs - which are designed to simply swap right in to newer fluorescent fixtures.

Or, alternatively, the electrician might have used the type of LED tubes that require bypassing the ballasts, in which case those ballasts wouldn't be extras, they'd be "pulls."

See options one and two, here:

5 Ways to Convert Your Fluorescent Light Fixtures to LED

5 Ways to Convert Your Fluorescent Light Fixtures to LED We're often asked, "How do you replace fluorescent tubes with LED?" and "Which LED replacement for fluorescent is best?" In this article, we break down the advantages and disadvantages of each fluorescent-to-LED option. If you have...
www.eledlights.com

My (again) guess is that it's the first thing I typed in this post. In which case, you could use them - by purchasing a set of the same type of LED retrofit tubes that the electrician installed in those fixtures.

I could, of course, be entirely wrong here. But I'm feeling pretty confident ;) .
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Yeah option 2 is what they were doing, these are extras, the ends haven’t been cut or twisted with wire nuts. He gave us the old take outs as well, I grabbed those as well to try to wire up a light or 2 for my shed haha. What I would REALLY like, is to get my hands on a couple of the 4 bulb T5 fixtures they pulled from the shop, they switched 11 over to led panels, getting the boss to part with 2 of them has been the challenge, 2 would fit perfectly in my closet that I use for veg and would literally cover corner to corner
 
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