CBD Auto EmmyStack In AziSIPs, GeoFlora, Sweet Candy, Dynomyco, Roots Organic Soil +

[CBDMed]

I would start at the 1:60 and see how it reacts. You'll probably have some K in other things you are giving it as well so that's why I say it's a bit of a science experiment as you really have no idea of how much of different inputs you're already giving it.

Hahaha, yeah, it is a bit of a science experiment gone awry, that has kind of turned into finger painting
I sure hope I do not kill my plants, and that i get some decent green bud!!
Thankfully, so far the girls all look good.

 

[CBDMed]

You will have to ask yourself "why would the gel be toxic"? So far I have not seen any warning on the label of either a powdered or gel rooting product indicating that it is toxic. Only the usual caution that to wash hands after use is buried at the very end of the label which has to be taken apart to get to that statement.

Good question. I googled it. This is from Reddit.

>> "So years and years ago I took botany at university. One of the labs I remember most was a propagation lab, where we were told that we wouldn't be following the lab instructions, no rooting hormone was to be used. The lab tech explained the active ingredient (indolebutyric acid) is a known carcinogen. Infrequent exposure is not associated with a higher risk, but for the lab workers who had 100 students in and out of the labs every day, of course there will be spills and being their workplace, they were at a high exposure risk. So they unlocked the locked scary chemicals cupboard and showed us the bottle so we'd know what to buy if we wanted to, but we weren't going to use it unless we were taking a high level botany course.

The strike rate between using hormone and not using it is only statistically significant - it's only like a 4% improvement (but might be higher with different plants). For a home gardener wanting to clone a handful of plants now and then, it's not worth the cost or the risk. If you were in the nursery biz or were working with a particularly tough plant to root, that 4% might be worth it.

Most rooting hormones are considered safe on edible plants. The active ingredient is just a synthetic version of a hormone that already exists in plants - you eat a carrot, you eat some IBA. The concentration is the issue, and by the time a plant is grown out to harvestable size, the IBA has gone back to a normal amount. But who knows what inactive ingredients is in whatever brand? If it says don't eat it, don't eat it.

Other tips from the class, if you use it, don't use it on the kitchen counter. Wash up carefully. It's hazardous so treat it like it's hazardous.

They do not know what causes autism. Some think vaccines (including me), some EMF pollution from powerlines, some chemicals in the food, and some other issues. All I know is that this autism kicks my behind every single day, and I am trying hard to keep my diet clean and natural, so as to not cause myself any more problems than I already have. So, maybe other people can handle a little bit of toxic stuff (like auto mechanics and welders do every day)? But I have to stay away from it.

Some rooting hormone products might contain "Naphthalene acetic acid (NAA)" which is a synthetic rooting hormone that helps reduce rotting.

Great questions.
I surprised myself. I went to look on the Volga for some organic cloning gel, and they make two organic ones! This is Papa Zeep's.

And this is Foop.
They do not show you the back of the label, so I took this from their brag sheet.

I also have some of those organic planting plugs (to hold the gel), so maybe that takes away all of my arguments??

I hope I am answering your questions.

 

[CBDMed]

INDOLE-3-BUTYRIC ACID is toxic. You wouldn't want to leave it on your skin, get it in your eyes, and you definitely wouldn't want to eat the stuff.

https://www.spectrumchemical.com/media/sds/IN127_AGHS.pdf

Hazard statements​

Toxic if swallowed​

Causes skin irritation​

Causes serious eye irritation​

May cause respiratory irritation​

Yes. It seems that there is some that naturally occurs, but you do not want to get too much, or it can cause a problem.
I already have more than my share of problems, so I do not need any more!

 

[CBDMed]

I'm very much with you on this. Yes, seeds are a good thing. The more we can be successful at producing our own seed, the better.

It's really a strange dilemma. The seeds and the oil are awesome nutrition, but to get enough, you need acres of hemp plants. Those are typically male/female, or hermie. The pollen is going everywhere for miles.

Then we have us medicinal cannabis growers, and we don't want random (hemp) pollen pollinating our females.

How to resolve?

I guess for me, wait until I get to the farm, and then build isolation cages??
Or, if there are organic cloning solutions, maybe I just need to grow out what I have, and go photo, and brush up on my cloning technique??

Good question. I'm not familiar with tomatoes this way, but after some very brief googling, I see that heirloom tomatoes are open pollinated, whereas other ones are self-pollinating. So, I'll guess that you could select for best looking plants and fruits by growing open-pollinated heirlooms and collecting and planting their seeds. They are getting cross-pollinated from other plants in the area.

Cannabis is also open pollinated; however, with all the specific traits that we are looking for in the "fruits," it doesn't make much sense to rely on whatever pollen drifts in on the wind. All the different chemotypes of cannabis can cross-pollinate. You wouldn't want "hemp" pollen pollinating your THC/CBD buds. And you wouldn't want any other random pollen either, really.

Yes, good point. I was thinking that if pollen maybe went a kilometer (@0.6 miles) I could open-pollinate it, and it would not harm anyone. (Or if a neighbor complained regarding his personal grow [because there are no commercial grows here, and most people here are scared of cannabis, because of the effects of the drug war in tearing their country apart], I could compensate him.
(But if it travels 10 miles, that could mess with a lot of people in the valley.)

I'd say that's on the cool side, year round, for cannabis. Which means growing indoors or in a greenhouse that will add some heat. Indicas are more adapted to cold climates. I'd say autos as well, maybe, because the wild ruderalis comes from cold climates.

Right. It is just that with any project, there are politics. There is a big push for eco-sustainability, and to reduce costs.
A few people have already looked at the indoor LED grow setup, and asked critical questions about why I cannot do all of that outdoors, to save both space and electricity.
I can now tell them that I want to try to transition to photo fem clones that I launch up to the roof for flowering, and explain I am saving money on the seeds. (They should understand that.)

Open pollinated heirloom tomatoes, I think, yes, if there's pollen coming in from surrounding adapted tomatoes. Otherwise, best to get your hands on some local tomato seeds. Adapting cannabis... much more complicated. For autos, even more complicated. The direct route is to get either regular or feminized photos, grow them out, select the best phenos, and clone. Beyond that, collect pollen from your males and pollinate the females (regular or feminized females). Etc.

I would say it's best to look for regular seed of strains that are already adapted to colder climates.

CBD strains that are already adapted to cool humid Andean Highlands?
I have been looking for them...

I'm saying that sativas are often known for being mold resistant, and the reason is the terpene profiles. Specifically, it looks like terpinolene dominant strains offer the best natural resistance to bud rot. Those strains tend to be high in the "pine terpenes," as opposed to the non-pine terpenes. Another factor is the overall amount of terpenes in the flower, meaning high resin production correlates to fungus/mold resistance. That's what I'm seeing.

That is good to know. I was told that sativas are naturally more mold resistant because their bud structures are more open and airy, therefore allowing for better airflow. But the terpene thing makes total sense. Some flavors, mold will not like!

I'm also seeing that the distinction between indica and sativa also correlates directly to the terpene profiles. In other words, the indica and sativa effects (on the mind/body) are the result of the terpenes. A THC indica will effect you differently than a THC sativa, and there's no mysterious, hidden ingredient there that's causing that – it's the terpenes.

Oh, is THAT what it is??
Terpenes...

Some people will claim that sativa doesn't give them stimulating effects, but I think what's going on is that they are growing a plant labeled as a sativa when in fact, the pheno they grew was indica (i.e. indica leaning or indica dominant). This is quite common. As I've said, the majority of popular strains have at least two predictable phenos, and the phenos can have very different terpene profiles. Those phenos will often be labelled as "indica pheno" or "sativa pheno"... from the same strain.

Makes sense.

I wonder if the seed is available from other sellers. I haven't checked.

Not sure. They banned Dinafem at least a couple of years ago. I know because when I was in Chile I wanted to grow Dinafem CBD Auto Cheese, but I could not (because Chile). And then when I came to Colombia, Dinafem was shut down. That was a little over two years ago.

One afterthought... according to my research, it would be difficult to find indicas that are bud rot and leaf mold resistant, because indicas typically don't have terpinolene dominant and high pine terpenes (that's typically a sativa thing). Indicas are high in the non-pine terpenes... myrcene, limonene, beta-caryophyllene, and humulene.

The way it was explained to me is that you want to look for genetics that originate in hot, humid areas, because they will have open-pollination adapted over centuries. (I think that is why they say Blueberry, because it has some Thai landrace genetics, but that could be totally wrong. I do not know much about it.)

Check my Lucky 13...

Quest for mold-resistant strains, Hawaii outdoor greenhouse grow

Next up, bringing my terp thresholds down a bit... Agent Orange (50/50 hybrid) 3.24% total terpenes So I just found out that the Holy Grail here involves large amounts of alpha-pinene. If I search for significantly less alpha pinene, then a whole lot more results show up. Very interesting...

www.420magazine.com

 

[CBDMed]

And, there's always "reversing," which means put some chemical on the female plant and it will produce male flowers and pollen. This way, you can even get pollen from feminized plants. The resulting seeds will also be feminized. Colloidal silver will work, which isn't necessarily a difficult substance to obtain. You can even make your own colloidal silver, given the right setup. It involves running a DC current through pure silver suspended in distilled water. Some people also swear by colloidal silver taken internally to knock out various pathogens.

I have got one. I used it. It worked, but it was weird.
I could do it again, maybe. But I think what really happened was that the silver colloid stressed the poor little plants so much that they wanted to self-pollinate and throw seeds, because they were dying. It did not look too healthy. However, that was also that salted "All Mix" soil, and nothing was really looking too good.

Maybe @bluter or someone who knows about silver colloid reversing can tell us if silver colloid normally stresses the plants out so bad, and that is why they hermie and throw pollen, or if that was a fluke and silver colloid normally does not harm the plants? (Surely someone else out there has tried silver colloid?)

What are the advantages of reversing? Well, you don't need to depend on acquiring regular seed. You can produce pollen whenever you want to, without growing males. (By the way, all males are autoflowering, regardless if the females are autos or photos. The exception are some equatorial sativa males which are light sensitive.) You can select females for the best traits, produce clones of a particularly great pheno, reverse one of them, and use the pollen to pollinate one or more of the other phenos, producing lots of seed of that pheno (this is called "selfing", and the genetic stability increases with each generation; however, not without some possible complications). You can breed two different strains/phenos of feminized plants, by reversing one and pollinating the other. Or, your could breed a reversed feminized female with a non-feminized female.

"Every time you self a plant, its offspring becomes 50% more genetically stable." – Khalifa Genetics

That sounds great! But I was also told that if you hermie the plants on purpose, they can be more likely to hermie in the future.

I have read that it's a good idea to keep clones of females from non-feminized seed, to use as a base for breeding, reversing, selfing, etc. That way, male genes can be brought forward. I have read that males contain many more genes relating to resistance to bugs, fungus, etc., which at least in part is related to terpene production (profile and overall amounts).

I know very little about this, but that makes some sense.

(I am a total beginner in all this! I haven't done any breeding, yet.)

Hahaha, I am such a beginner that I thought open pollination would be a good thing!

 

[SmokingWings]

INDOLE-3-BUTYRIC ACID is toxic. You wouldn't want to leave it on your skin, get it in your eyes, and you definitely wouldn't want to eat the stuff.

I looked it up before replying. I then went to the 3 different cloning products that I have on a shelf and checked for the warnings about it being toxic or dangerous and found none. The warning about keeping the product out of eyes and washing hands was extent of it and also the last thing mentioned on the labels for two containers. Any sort of warning was not easily found on the third so I stopped looking though it might be there, somewhere. Nowhere any warning about sales to or use by minors like there would be for some toxic everyday products.

Thing is, it seems to be as toxic as just about everything else we find or use in our everyday life.

Anyway, @el gringuito picked up on the comment and did the research on why it is called or considered toxic.

 

[CBDMed]

I wrote to Dude from Aurora to ask about Shed's comment.

>> "Hey [Dude].
I am a relative noob grower. I have maybe only a dozen cannabis grows under my belt (maybe 6 of them organic). However, I know a little about organic gardening, and feeding soil.
The other people on the forum advising me are all master growers and a few breeders. (Probably not in your league exactly, but they know a lot.) Some of them use Terp Tea.
I was told that you apply TT Grow all the grow, and then you start to apply TT Bloom in bloom (or just before).

One expert grower says that he sees like half the K in the mix that he would like to see. His comment was:
>> "7-1-1 + 3.4-7.49-4 = 10.4-8.49-5. From an NPK standpoint I'd say you have less than half the K you need (ignoring the P for the moment)."
Can you please comment? And how would I boost K in your system?
Thanks.

Dude still does not answer questions. I think he wants me to talk with the local distributor instead.
He replied:

>> " This approach that the member in the forum is taking, is not exactly correct. NPK and organics is lower than synthetics because it isn’t as bioavailable as synthetics. When it breaks down it increases and provides more. If you are using the bloom booster in conjunction with the bloom you are totally fine. Use grow during veg and bloom at the beginning of flowering. At week three use bloom and bloom booster (booster at 1tsp per gal) until you flush. If you were using just bloom, sure you always want a booster, but you are using both.

Not to take away from ppl on forums, however a lot of it is what they heard from a friend or another forum and is regurgitated. We also have a multimillion dollar lab, test greenhouses and agronomist that work for us testing and doing R&D under myself and the team.
[ Hahaha, it must be great to have someone on staff growing weed for the whole team! ]

The only other thing I would recommend would be our elemental (cal mag) and Terp Tea Microbe Charge. Microbe charge is not just microbes but also sugars/carbs for /resin/terps/thc/trichomes etc.

if you would like on the fly advice, I recommend reaching out to Dr. Wee. They have extensive experience with our products and can help. I’m not able to vouch for people on forums. They can be great or detrimental. Hope this helps and lmk if you have any other questions. Thanks!


I am still not sure why he wants more Cal Mag if there is not a deficiency.
(Has anyone done experiments with supplementing EXTRA Cal Mag??)

I want to ask him about his Uprising line, and if it degrades the soil any, or if it just adds (kind of like taking both a chemical multivitamin, AND an organic plant-based multivitamin?).

Haha, should I ask him why he does not answer my question about K?? (Because he already told me to go talk with Dr. Wee...)

 

[SmokingWings]

I am still not sure why he wants more Cal Mag if there is not a deficiency.

Maybe to prevent a deficiency from starting over the next couple of weeks.

 

[bluter]

someone who knows about silver colloid reversing can tell us if silver colloid normally stresses the plants out so bad, and that is why they hermie and throw pollen, or if that was a fluke and silver colloid normally does not harm the plants? (Surely someone else out there has tried silver colloid?)

i'd have to know more about the process used and how the cs was prepared. typically you need to have your grow dialed in with no issues before attempting.

That sounds great! But I was also told that if you hermie the plants on purpose, they can be more likely to hermie in the future.

i worked on a couple grows where it was used but i never applied it personally.

selfing a plant with cs is different than a hermie. you need to choose a super stable fem plant for it. we only ever used cs on fem regs with no genetic pre-disposition to hermie.

plants that hermie on their own normally produce seed with a disposition to hermie as well. cs produces fem only.

I know very little about this, but that makes some sense.

there's a couple threads on the board on how to do it.

Hahaha, I am such a beginner that I thought open pollination would be a good thing!

the majority of weed grown used to be open pollination. sensi didn't get much traction until late 70's early 80's. i didn't see femmed seed until mid 80's or later. femmed seed was getting pretty standard by the mid 90's.

 

[CBDMed]

i'd have to know more about the process used and how the cs was prepared. typically you need to have your grow dialed in with no issues before attempting.

Thanks, @bluter . That grow was not dialed in at all. It had a lot of problems because the base soil had six times the recommended amount of sodium (cbdhemp808 spotted it).
I think maybe the next grow things will be dialed in enough to where I can experiment with the cs again.

i worked on a couple grows where it was used but i never applied it personally.

selfing a plant with cs is different than a hermie. you need to choose a super stable fem plant for it. we only ever used cs on fem regs with no genetic pre-disposition to hermie.

plants that hermie on their own normally produce seed with a disposition to hermie as well. cs produces fem only.

there's a couple threads on the board on how to do it.

Thanks.
Yes, I tried to follow a thread, but I think the base soil killed it. This grow is going well, but it is autos.
The next time I grow photos I can try on a photo regular fem.

the majority of weed grown used to be open pollination. sensi didn't get much traction until late 70's early 80's. i didn't see femmed seed until mid 80's or later. femmed seed was getting pretty standard by the mid 90's.

Yes, I guess I am old-fashioned. You have two horses, you put them together, and now you have three. But I guess technology and technique can change the scene. So I will have to update myself. Thanks.

 

[InTheShed]

Maybe @bluter or someone who knows about silver colloid reversing can tell us if silver colloid normally stresses the plants out so bad, and that is why they hermie and throw pollen, or if that was a fluke and silver colloid normally does not harm the plants? (Surely someone else out there has tried silver colloid?)

Colloidal silver changes the plant's production of ethylene, cytokinins, and auxins, which will cause female plants to produce pollen sacs. Because it needs to applied daily for weeks it can be hard on the plant.

Silver thiosulphate (STS) requires only 3 or 4 applications and it much easier on the plant's health. That's the one I use for seed making and it's highly effective.

NPK and organics is lower than synthetics because it isn’t as bioavailable as synthetics.

That's probably true, but their bag contains nutrient salts.

You have two horses, you put them together, and now you have three.

Only if they're truly in love.

 

[CBDMed]

Colloidal silver changes the plant's production of ethylene, cytokinins, and auxins, which will cause female plants to produce pollen sacs. Because it needs to applied daily for weeks it can be hard on the plant.

Oh, so it is hard on the plant.

Silver thiosulphate (STS) requires only 3 or 4 applications and it much easier on rhe plants health. That's the one I use for seed making and it's highly effective.

Only if they're truly in love.

 

[CBDMed]

Maybe to prevent a deficiency from starting over the next couple of weeks.

Ahh, right. Good point. Maybe he already knows his product will either need calmag, or can benefit from calmag??

I asked him how much he adds.

 

[InTheShed]

For some interesting reading on calcium and magnesium, @Gee64 made an info-packed post here.

 

[CBDMed]

For some interesting reading on calcium and magnesium, @Gee64 made an info-packed post here.

Wow, that was a great post!!

But if I followed everyone's advice, and I put the 1 inch layer of earthworm castings up top of my SIP build, do I still use the @StoneOtter SIP Fix, and add the 4 mL of Calmag per gallon of water?

(And do I put that water over EWC and the soil? Or down into the res?)

 

[bluter]

run a little in the res. use the liquid version. start at 1/4 to 1/2 dose and watch how the plant responds.

 

[cbdhemp808]

Silver thiosulphate (STS) requires only 3 or 4 applications and it much easier on rhe plants health. That's the one I use for seed making and it's highly effective.

I read that, too, but I wanted to let Gringuito know about CS because it's made from just silver, water, and electricity.

 

[cbdhemp808]

I looked it up before replying. I then went to the 3 different cloning products that I have on a shelf and checked for the warnings about it being toxic or dangerous and found none. The warning about keeping the product out of eyes and washing hands was extent of it and also the last thing mentioned on the labels for two containers. Any sort of warning was not easily found on the third so I stopped looking though it might be there, somewhere. Nowhere any warning about sales to or use by minors like there would be for some toxic everyday products.

Thing is, it seems to be as toxic as just about everything else we find or use in our everyday life.

Anyway, @el gringuito picked up on the comment and did the research on why it is called or considered toxic.

I use Clonex myself, but I'm totally open to using something more natural. I mean, aloe is 100% safe... you can eat it.

Does anyone know if powder is more stable than a gel like Clonex? I think my Clonex degraded because I didn't keep it in the fridge.

 

[CBDMed]

run a little in the res. use the liquid version. start at 1/4 to 1/2 dose and watch how the plant responds.

Awesome @bluter. Muchas gracias. It is super good to know, because I hope to re-use the soil.

 

[CBDMed]

I read that, too, but I wanted to let Gringuito know about CS because it's made from just silver, water, and electricity.

Shed, does STS degrade over time (like cs)? Or how long is the shelf life?