CBD Auto EmmyStack In AziSIPs, GeoFlora, Sweet Candy, Dynomyco, Roots Organic Soil +

Funny you say that on those last cuttings I took ,I cut a couple of the right at a shade leaf and left the shade leaf connected by 2mm of material and even the shade leaf grew healthy roots 🤣
Wow!!
Welcome, Absorber!
 
I don't use any hormone at all. I root mine in perlite or coarse sand and mist them a couple of times a day. I see roots typically in 10-12 days.
Awesome. Are they ready to transplant in 10-12 days?

I have an aloe plant.
I Googled "natural rooting hormone for plants. It gave 10 hits.
Any comments or personal experience on any of these (apart from the fact that spraying with water seems good enough)?
Willow water
Cinnamon (haha, Saigon or Ceylon?)
Aloe Vera (I have a plant. I will have to fertilize it, and up-pot it.
Apple Cider Vinegar
Honey
Honey Rooting Hormone (??)
Aspirin Rooting Hormone (??)
Coconut water
Saliva
EWC tea?

natural rooting hormone for plants.jpg
 
Awesome. Are they ready to transplant in 10-12 days?
Lol. No. Just starting to root. I usually let them go 3-4 weeks as I like to have the roots better established before I move them. I usually do 5-10 cuttings in a solo cup, but I take them pretty small.

I have an aloe plant.
I Googled "natural rooting hormone for plants. It gave 10 hits.
Any comments or personal experience on any of these (apart from the fact that spraying with water seems good enough)?
Willow water
Cinnamon (haha, Saigon or Ceylon?)
Aloe Vera (I have a plant. I will have to fertilize it, and up-pot it.
Apple Cider Vinegar
Honey
Honey Rooting Hormone (??)
Aspirin Rooting Hormone (??)
Coconut water
Saliva
EWC tea?
I've tried a bunch of those and had pretty mixed results against a control I ran concurrently. I started a cloning thread with a bunch of Jadam potions, but in the end I ended up with the process linked in my signature.
 
Lol. No. Just starting to root. I usually let them go 3-4 weeks as I like to have the roots better established before I move them. I usually do 5-10 cuttings in a solo cup, but I take them pretty small.


I've tried a bunch of those and had pretty mixed results against a control I ran concurrently. I started a cloning thread with a bunch of Jadam potions, but in the end I ended up with the process linked in my signature.
Thanks, Azi. I will try to check your thread.
I am reading, and it says Aloe Vera (straight) and Apple Cider Vinegar (1.2 tsp / liter) both help rooting some. I have both of those, so I may start there. (It looks like I will be working on my cloning technique...)
:thanks:
 
I used honey once but that was before I knew much about cloning. I'm sure I picked that up here on the site so others here have done it.
Ahh, ok. They said honey and cinnamon are anti-microbial, so they tend to counteract dampening off, but they have no rooting hormone at all.
They said Aloe Vera (straight) and 1.2 tsp ACV in 1 L of water. I have both, so I will start there.
:thumb:
 
>>Woof!!<<
I wrote [Dude] from Roots Organics. I told him we are on a forum, and someone asked to see the technical analysis of the micros (Ca, Mg, Mn, Fe, etc.)
We wrote back and forth several times, and I asked three times, and he sent me the Safety Data Sheets, but he never did send me the technical analysis (lol). He said those are all printed on the bags.
I told him I have Bloom but not Grow or Bloom Booster, so where can I find the micros please?? He never did answer, so I guess I will see the labels when I buy them eventually.
(Does he want some free advertising for his brand, or does he not????) :hmmmm: :hmmmm:

>> You are correct Calciuk [calcium] and magnesium are on the bag. As a general rule of thumb, with ANY brand of nutrients you should be using a cal mag supplement. It increases all attributes. As far as micros you would need to delve into each organic component and learn about which ones have micros, macros and/or both. It isn’t different than a straight synthetic. Synthetics list “micros” because they are replicating organic matter.

>> It’s not necessarily apples to apples unfortunately. Also with organics you are feeding your soil, and much then feeds the plant what is necessary unlike force feeding direct to the plant with synthetics. My recommendation for yourself and the forum community would be to start there and learn the key differences and how they interact/differ. Thanks!


I am not sure what to answer him. I am tired of asking for the technical analysis, and will probably just buy a bag each of Veg and Bloom Booster when it comes in, to check the labels, and to experiment.
Here is the label on the TT Bloom bag.

TTB technical.jpg



One question, he said CalMag generally enhances a grow, and always to use it. Does that sound right??
 
If those numbers are correct there is plenty of calcium and magnesium in there. The NPK are not what I would personally advise for cannabis but you might have great success with it! It reads more like a bloom booster for those who still believe you need more P in flower, but it seems low on N and K.

TT Grow is 7-1-1. @SmokingWings says you are supposed to supply it for the whole grow (for N).
That is, GF has you replace Veg with Bloom, but with Roots, you use TT Grow for the whole grow (to supply N), and you start TT Bloom I guess when you see the very first pistils (if not before).

Would K from Azi's Banana Peel EWC tea round out the Grow and Bloom combination??
(And how much Banana Peel EWC tea??)
Or what other organic sources of K are there? (Kelp extract?)
 
7-1-1 + 3.4-7.49-4 = 10.4-8.49-5. From an NPK standpoint I'd say you have less than half the K you need (ignoring the P for the moment), but I have no idea how how to make that up with banana tea. You're mixing known and unknown quantities in an organic grow, so hitting targets might be a true guessing game.

Also, for the record, the sources listed on that bag make it not an organic bag of nutrients, as P2O5 is Phosphorus pentoxide and K2O might be the way they label K2SO4, or potassium sulfate.
 
7-1-1 + 3.4-7.49-4 = 10.4-8.49-5. From an NPK standpoint I'd say you have less than half the K you need (ignoring the P for the moment),
I wrote to ask Dude. 😂
but I have no idea how how to make that up with banana tea.

@Azimuth , can you please help us out?

You're mixing known and unknown quantities in an organic grow, so hitting targets might be a true guessing game.
Yeah. Emmers said that she stopped using teas, because you cannot measure anything precisely.
I am not sure how to get around that, but free K sure is nice.

Also, for the record, the sources of that make it not an organic bag of nutrients, as P2O5 is Phosphorus pentoxide and K2O might be the way they label K2SO4, or potassium sulfate.
Good to know. :thumb:
As stated before, I am not rabid on not adding chemical nutes. Only, I love the flavor and the health of organic soil-grown plants, and do not want to harm the microbes. If we can add P2O5 or K2SO4 and the plants love it and the microbes are not hurt, is it bad?
 
Yes. Only, it is not really the cost that I am concerned about.
For full disclosure, some people have done lots and lots of research, and yet they still see the world as being a wee bit unstable, and they are concerned about food and medicine security in a world trending toward the WEF UN Agenda 2030 "there will be global communism coordinated by the government, and you will own nothing, and you will be happy about it."
Some people have had dealings with the government, and while they USED to trust the government with their very lives, AFTER those dealings, they don't trust the government too much.

For example, I do not trust the government to properly diagnose my autism or any other medical conditions (some of which they caused), and absolutely I do not trust them to issue the appropriate medicines (which they keep criminalized at the federal level). (And I also do not trust the ultra-rich <1% who basically own the government, and all of its decisions).
Without respect to security classifications, or what was seen, as a result of my experiences with the government, I want the ability to guarantee my own food and medicine security, WITHOUT having to ask Big Brother for permission to eat, or to get my medicine.
(Sorry if that seems tin foil, but without respect to "what has been seen", I like my position, and have no plans to change it.)
I'm very much with you on this. Yes, seeds are a good thing. The more we can be successful at producing our own seed, the better.

I understand.
But some people (and most ancient and natural medicinal systems) think that the seeds are the best and most nutritious part of the plant, both physically and spiritually (if you follow that kind of thing).
(I am sure not everyone agrees.)
Cannabis seeds are specifically named in Classical Chinese Medicine as having certain religious and spiritual values.
It's really a strange dilemma. The seeds and the oil are awesome nutrition, but to get enough, you need acres of hemp plants. Those are typically male/female, or hermie. The pollen is going everywhere for miles.

Then we have us medicinal cannabis growers, and we don't want random (hemp) pollen pollinating our females.

How to resolve?

Hm. Well, maybe there is something I am not getting?
With tomatoes, you plant them, and then you take seeds from the best looking plants and the best looking fruits, and then over generations you end up with tomatoes that grow better in your area.
Is it wrong to think that this works the same way with cannabis?
Good question. I'm not familiar with tomatoes this way, but after some very brief googling, I see that heirloom tomatoes are open pollinated, whereas other ones are self-pollinating. So, I'll guess that you could select for best looking plants and fruits by growing open-pollinated heirlooms and collecting and planting their seeds. They are getting cross-pollinated from other plants in the area.

Cannabis is also open pollinated; however, with all the specific traits that we are looking for in the "fruits," it doesn't make much sense to rely on whatever pollen drifts in on the wind. All the different chemotypes of cannabis can cross-pollinate. You wouldn't want "hemp" pollen pollinating your THC/CBD buds. And you wouldn't want any other random pollen either, really.

Here, in this warmer time of year, the daily high is around 71-73F.
Six months from now the daily high will be like 66-67F (and in the low 50's at night).
So I am accepting the fact that the girls will have to be started inside, and then moved outdoors.

It is now about 71-73F for us here.
In six (more like 3 months), it will be maybe 67-68F daily highs.
I'd say that's on the cool side, year round, for cannabis. Which means growing indoors or in a greenhouse that will add some heat. Indicas are more adapted to cold climates. I'd say autos as well, maybe, because the wild ruderalis comes from cold climates.

The idea idea was simply to adapt the tomatoes and cannabis to the climate...
Open pollinated heirloom tomatoes, I think, yes, if there's pollen coming in from surrounding adapted tomatoes. Otherwise, best to get your hands on some local tomato seeds. Adapting cannabis... much more complicated. For autos, even more complicated. The direct route is to get either regular or feminized photos, grow them out, select the best phenos, and clone. Beyond that, collect pollen from your males and pollinate the females (regular or feminized females). Etc.

I would say it's best to look for regular seed of strains that are already adapted to colder climates.

And you do not see sativas as being more mold resistant, because of the airiness of the bud structure?

(Are you suggesting that sativa or indica makes no difference--but what matters is the terpenes?)
I'm saying that sativas are often known for being mold resistant, and the reason is the terpene profiles. Specifically, it looks like terpinolene dominant strains offer the best natural resistance to bud rot. Those strains tend to be high in the "pine terpenes," as opposed to the non-pine terpenes. Another factor is the overall amount of terpenes in the flower, meaning high resin production correlates to fungus/mold resistance. That's what I'm seeing.

I'm also seeing that the distinction between indica and sativa also correlates directly to the terpene profiles. In other words, the indica and sativa effects (on the mind/body) are the result of the terpenes. A THC indica will effect you differently than a THC sativa, and there's no mysterious, hidden ingredient there that's causing that – it's the terpenes. Some people will claim that sativa doesn't give them stimulating effects, but I think what's going on is that they are growing a plant labeled as a sativa when in fact, the pheno they grew was indica (i.e. indica leaning or indica dominant). This is quite common. As I've said, the majority of popular strains have at least two predictable phenos, and the phenos can have very different terpene profiles. Those phenos will often be labelled as "indica pheno" or "sativa pheno"... from the same strain.

I just wrote them to inquire, and they said that they are still shut down [Dinafem].
I wonder if the seed is available from other sellers. I haven't checked.


One afterthought... according to my research, it would be difficult to find indicas that are bud rot and leaf mold resistant, because indicas typically don't have terpinolene dominant and high pine terpenes (that's typically a sativa thing). Indicas are high in the non-pine terpenes... myrcene, limonene, beta-caryophyllene, and humulene.

Check my Lucky 13...
 
You've got such a science experiment going with your mix of inputs that who knows? Like most other things cannabis, start low and go slow.

Right. But I was looking for the dose limits.
Methinks I may have found it.

>> "Most of the plant based Jadam extracts are a minimum of 1:25 dilution into water for feeding your plants."

>> "Banana Jadam Tea
3 banana peels,
1 Tablespoon worm castings
1 liter of water
Age three weeks anaerobically.

Directions:
1 L = 34 oz
2 Tbl = 1 oz
3 Tsp = 1Tbl
6 Tsp = 1 oz

so....,
2 Tablespoon/6 tsp/Liter = 1:34 (or 2 Tbl = 1:34)
1 Tablespoon/3 tsp/Liter = 1:68 (or 1 Tbl = 1:68)


So start at 1:68 and then move it toward 1:34??
And then look for signs of K burn??

Umm... I know what K deficiency looks like...
potassium-deficiency-cannabis-1.jpg


But what does K burn (or toxicity) look like??
 
As stated before, I am not rabid on not adding chemical nutes. Only, I love the flavor and the health of organic soil-grown plants, and do not want to harm the microbes. If we can add P2O5 or K2SO4 and the plants love it and the microbes are not hurt, is it bad?
If your only concern is not killing microbes, feel free to go with locally available synthetic nutes from start to finish. I'm not sure how many synthetics (like the bag above) you can add to an organic grow before you lose the "organic" flavor you seek. Only in veg? Only in flower? 50% in flower? Seems like an unknown to me.
 
Right. But I was looking for the dose limits.
Methinks I may have found it.

>> "Most of the plant based Jadam extracts are a minimum of 1:25 dilution into water for feeding your plants."

>> "Banana Jadam Tea
3 banana peels,
1 Tablespoon worm castings
1 liter of water
Age three weeks anaerobically.

Directions:
1 L = 34 oz
2 Tbl = 1 oz
3 Tsp = 1Tbl
6 Tsp = 1 oz

so....,
2 Tablespoon/6 tsp/Liter = 1:34 (or 2 Tbl = 1:34)
1 Tablespoon/3 tsp/Liter = 1:68 (or 1 Tbl = 1:68)


So start at 1:68 and then move it toward 1:34??
And then look for signs of K burn??

Umm... I know what K deficiency looks like...
potassium-deficiency-cannabis-1.jpg


But what does K burn (or toxicity) look like??
I would start at the 1:60 and see how it reacts. You'll probably have some K in other things you are giving it as well so that's why I say it's a bit of a science experiment as you really have no idea of how much of different inputs you're already giving it.
 
The direct route is to get either regular or feminized photos, grow them out, select the best phenos, and clone. Beyond that, collect pollen from your males and pollinate the females (regular or feminized females). Etc.
And, there's always "reversing," which means put some chemical on the female plant and it will produce male flowers and pollen. This way, you can even get pollen from feminized plants. The resulting seeds will also be feminized. Colloidal silver will work, which isn't necessarily a difficult substance to obtain. You can even make your own colloidal silver, given the right setup. It involves running a DC current through pure silver suspended in distilled water. Some people also swear by colloidal silver taken internally to knock out various pathogens.

What are the advantages of reversing? Well, you don't need to depend on acquiring regular seed. You can produce pollen whenever you want to, without growing males. (By the way, all males are autoflowering, regardless if the females are autos or photos. The exception are some equatorial sativa males which are light sensitive.) You can select females for the best traits, produce clones of a particularly great pheno, reverse one of them, and use the pollen to pollinate one or more of the other phenos, producing lots of seed of that pheno (this is called "selfing", and the genetic stability increases with each generation; however, not without some possible complications). You can breed two different strains/phenos of feminized plants, by reversing one and pollinating the other. Or, your could breed a reversed feminized female with a non-feminized female.

"Every time you self a plant, its offspring becomes 50% more genetically stable." – Khalifa Genetics

I have read that it's a good idea to keep clones of females from non-feminized seed, to use as a base for breeding, reversing, selfing, etc. That way, male genes can be brought forward. I have read that males contain many more genes relating to resistance to bugs, fungus, etc., which at least in part is related to terpene production (profile and overall amounts).

(I am a total beginner in all this! I haven't done any breeding, yet.)
 
Hmmm.... I am not real sure how I feel about cloning at the spiritual level.
And isn't the gel toxic?
You will have to ask yourself "why would the gel be toxic"? So far I have not seen any warning on the label of either a powdered or gel rooting product indicating that it is toxic. Only the usual caution that to wash hands after use is buried at the very end of the label which has to be taken apart to get to that statement.

Some rooting hormone products might contain "Naphthalene acetic acid (NAA)" which is a synthetic rooting hormone that helps reduce rotting.
 
You will have to ask yourself "why would the gel be toxic"? So far I have not seen any warning on the label of either a powdered or gel rooting product indicating that it is toxic. Only the usual caution that to wash hands after use is buried at the very end of the label which has to be taken apart to get to that statement.

Some rooting hormone products might contain "Naphthalene acetic acid (NAA)" which is a synthetic rooting hormone that helps reduce rotting.
INDOLE-3-BUTYRIC ACID is toxic. You wouldn't want to leave it on your skin, get it in your eyes, and you definitely wouldn't want to eat the stuff.


Hazard statements
Toxic if swallowed​
Causes skin irritation​
Causes serious eye irritation​
May cause respiratory irritation​
 
If your only concern is not killing microbes, feel free to go with locally available synthetic nutes from start to finish. I'm not sure how many synthetics (like the bag above) you can add to an organic grow before you lose the "organic" flavor you seek. Only in veg? Only in flower? 50% in flower? Seems like an unknown to me.
Me, too. I do not know too much, and I am trying to learn my way, but I have always been told that feeding the soil is better for the soil, and that it costs more, but that it produces healthier, tastier, more nutritious plants. (But maybe that is wrong??)

Dude also sells an "uprising" blend which mixed organic and chemical. I thought I would either ask him about it, or get a small bag to try, and see how I like the buds and the soil afterward.
 
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