Welcome To My New Journal - OMMSOG

Hey OMM. Got the bat signal.

Looks like she is top heavy and that causes her to fall over. How is the temperature in there? The previous image had the leaf showing sign of heat stress along with some nute burn. I have to agree with Mr K suggested flushing and feeding with light nute. Part from falling over I don't see any sign that the plant is dying, the leafs still nice and green. Might have to transfer this one in the center to get more light, from the image the side looks darker (means it isn't getting enough light there). For the fans around set it on high to train the stems as the near by plants could use the workout, which ultimately will help sustain heavy tops.

The Bat Signal Worked!

When I took those last pictures, I too thought she wasn't dead, she looked too healthy. Actually I pulled her from under the lights to take her picture, maybe I have the lights too low. It is a closed fan cooled light and is not hot to the touch. Temps from 78 to 84 , it varies by time of day. I will do exactly as you say and we will see what happens.

Thank you Brother.
:high-five:
 
Thanks Mr. Krip. I use
OC+, but who knows? I'll give her a flush and Cal-Mag and see if that helps. Thanks Buddy. :high-five:

:hmmmm: I can't find a list of ingredients on the OC+. Does it have Magnesium in it? (NOT Manganese!).
 
1.4% Magnesium

:hmmmm: Maybe a Mag deficiency caused by PH lockout? I really don't know, but, I do believe that this leaf looks like a "classic" example of a Magnesium deficiency with the yellowing between the leaf veins:

leaf_jpg.JPG
 
:hmmmm: I can't find a list of ingredients on the OC+. Does it have Magnesium in it? (NOT Manganese!).

Yes...Magnesium. Just looked it up. She has been well flushed and is in a dark cabinet with only air circulating until the lights come on again. Then directly under the lights. Thanks Mr. Krip. We are fighting to save this girl...thanks to you and Twelve 12 (Bat Man)
:Namaste:
 
Now that 12 has spoken, I will add my comment. Stick my Neck out there...

I suspect two things, too much N and I question the moisture level of your soil and root condition. I have experienced this once with my sativas. I am an advocate for good draining mediums when talking soils.

Curious do you have a moisture probe? Could you take readings throughout the medium? Curious what you have side vs center mass vs bottom.

I believe the diagnosis is fair, but the cause is uncertain. I am thinking let dry and water with RO and cal/mag when ready. Prop her up and it will pass. But I am not one for flushing... unless I have no other choice. Apply a foliar if you feel the need.. Epsom in water

When I did water I watered from the bottom to encourage new root growth as well. Once I felt the plant was stable I resumed normal procedures.

Having no experience with air pots, not sure if any of this is relevant.
 
Now that 12 has spoken, I will add my comment. Stick my Neck out there...

I suspect two things, too much N and I question the moisture level of your soil and root condition. I have experienced this once with my sativas. I am an advocate for good draining mediums when talking soils.

Curious do you have a moisture probe? Could you take readings throughout the medium? Curious what you have side vs center mass vs bottom.

I believe the diagnosis is fair, but the cause is uncertain. I am thinking let dry and water with RO and cal/mag when ready. Prop her up and it will pass. But I am not one for flushing... unless I have no other choice. Apply a foliar if you feel the need.. Epsom in water

When I did water I watered from the bottom to encourage new root growth as well. Once I felt the plant was stable I resumed normal procedures.

Having no experience with air pots, not sure if any of this is relevant.

HI Buddy.....this is only the second plant I really have flushed in all these years. Sorry no moisture probe. I use Happy Frog with per lite in it. The AirPots drain well by design. I'll get some pics of her when I put her back in the tent tonight. She will be propped up for sure. :high-five:

I listen to what you say my friend. You have a ton of experience too, especially our kind of growing with OC+ . :thankyou:
 
Now that 12 has spoken, I will add my comment. Stick my Neck out there...

I suspect two things, too much N and I question the moisture level of your soil and root condition. I have experienced this once with my sativas. I am an advocate for good draining mediums when talking soils.

Curious do you have a moisture probe? Could you take readings throughout the medium? Curious what you have side vs center mass vs bottom.

I believe the diagnosis is fair, but the cause is uncertain. I am thinking let dry and water with RO and cal/mag when ready. Prop her up and it will pass. But I am not one for flushing... unless I have no other choice. Apply a foliar if you feel the need.. Epsom in water

When I did water I watered from the bottom to encourage new root growth as well. Once I felt the plant was stable I resumed normal procedures.

Having no experience with air pots, not sure if any of this is relevant.

Smokz, this post is intended to be purely educational (perhaps for me!) & conversational, and not confrontational; but if it was too much N, wouldn't you expect the leaves to be dark green and not yellowing?

Also, I'd agree a flush for correctional problems is somewhat of a "last resort", especially in soil, but in the case where you do NOT know what the cause of the problems are, I do think it's good to start with a "clean slate". :Namaste:
 
I don't know if you have looked at this for your WR but maybe it will help. You have got some great growers giving advice but I thought this was relevant.

Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver

# 6 and 8

Ummmmm....I just need to add that #3 is relevant, too! :)

3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.

The green veins in yellowing leaves (called "intervenal banding") is USUALLY (not always!) and indication of a Mag deficiency. The leaves also curl up like they're "praying" which I've heard described as "praying for more magnesium!" :)

BTW...this appeared to be obvious to me, but the fact that I'm the only one suggesting a Mag deficiency is really making me wonder if I'm missing something! :Namaste:
 
Ummmmm....I just need to add that #3 is relevant, too! :)



The green veins in yellowing leaves (called "intervenal banding") is USUALLY (not always!) and indication of a Mag deficiency. The leaves also curl up like they're "praying" which I've heard described as "praying for more magnesium!" :)

BTW...this appeared to be obvious to me, but the fact that I'm the only one suggesting a Mag deficiency is really making me wonder if I'm missing something! :Namaste:

I don't think you are missing anything. I just don't think a Mg deficiency would make it fall over in one night like that. Just my opinion. :Namaste:
 
I don't think you are missing anything. I just don't think a Mg deficiency would make it fall over in one night like that. Just my opinion. :Namaste:

Aaaahhhhh....OK....thanks! :thanks:

One of the symptoms of Mag deficiency is weak stalks, but admittedly, I'm no expert in these things and don't know how long or how bad a mag deficiency would have to be for the plant to drop over:

Magnesium deficiency in plants leads to chlorosis and necrosis of the leaves. The lower and older leaves develop interveinal chlorosis. The initial symptom of magnesium deficiency is generally a pale green color that is very pronounced in the old or lower leaves. The leaf margins may curve upward and may turn red brown to purple in color in some plants. During the preharvest season, it may lead to leaf drop, weak stalks and long branched roots.
 
NO confrontation expected... it's all good. Just waiting for my moment..

I feel it is possible that too much N has triggered a calcium and magnesium deficiency/lock. I am beginning to believe it is OC+ biggest issue. I also suspect the medium retaining to much moisture within the root ball, there again impacting the grow. Calcium is a major player in plant wall and cell strength. I might consider a h2o2 treatment as well to enrich the o2 levels to again promote root growth to assist in overcoming the issue.

May I ask what your OC+ application rate is, and how you apply it?
Do you water to run off every time or?
Soil so much needs it's dry period in container growing...
 
Visual aid helps greatly. This should be made into a poster and be in every grow rooms.

leavedeficiencies2.jpg

That is a great chart I have used many time to help others. It is incomplete, first noticed was no Calcium deficiency. It is a good companion to our own Plant and Pest Problem Solver.
 
Great chart. It's hard to tell whats what with them problems unless you really follow whats in their food. Lock outs happen also with PH fluctuations. If you are running R/O water also. Cal Mag usally is the first thing to try on 'most' plants. It's sure a vitaim that they do use alot of. If your running real clean water, that usally means all the calcium has been removed. GL and Keepem Green Pop's. HAPPY EASTER.
 
SurfBuddy there may be one I have not look into it. Overfeeding the tips becomes dark brown, dry, and crunchy.

SmokzAlot I can't seem to figure out why the original creator did not include cal deficiency. lol Maybe I have to add that to the chart using photoshop or something. There are other types of deficiency like overfeeding/nute burn, heat stress, pest damage, etc...maybe I'll work on it this week.

Norcaliwood you're right, most deficiencies problem can be solved with the proper pH correction. Often the deficiencies caused by imbalance pH (too acidic or too alkaline) not that there is a shortage of these minerals in nutrients. pH regulate the plant take up of minerals so should be first thing for trouble shoot. Often people add more calmag when there is cal/mag deficiency, which can cause more problems, lol.
 
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