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In a SIP, the roots don't really grow into the res much, or even into the wet 'feet'. They grow mostly down to the air gap and then stop.

The res gives the soil above the air gap a consistent moisture gradient. That allows the plant to grow roots to accommodate that moisture gradient. Then they can eat, drink, and breathe as much as they want. As much as possible, you want that moisture gradient to stay the same, which means watering the res only (through the pipe).

Went out for a inspection of the SIP experiment I have going on.

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This is what I believe evidence of that moisture gradient mentioned earlier (please correct if wrong). I opened the the SIP pot to see if there was a build up of moisture in the chamber and to my surprise the mark is pretty obvious what is moist and not.
I had in mind around a inch of the bottom is constantly moist from the reservoir. Today was a hot day and the condensation created was good enough to touch the whole bottom of the pot and that’s where possible the roots will come out.

I think it could work. It’s just weird not watering a plant. I’m getting use to it. And for best results we have a non SIP growing next
 
So does the top bucket just sit on the tip lip of the water bucket with nothing physically connecting the two? Of so, that'd be more of a Kratky set-up (although that would start with the water just barely touching the upper pot) and then the water roots would follow the declining water level) .

For a true SIP set-up, you'll need a connector pot between the two. Fine the way you have it if just for an experiment, but without some sort of physical connection between the upper soil and the lower water reservoir it likely won't do what you want as the air gap will probably air prune most of the roots before they reach the water.
 
So does the top bucket just sit on the tip lip of the water bucket with nothing physically connecting the two? Of so, that'd be more of a Kratky set-up (although that would start with the water just barely touching the upper pot) and then the water roots would follow the declining water level) .

For a true SIP set-up, you'll need a connector pot between the two. Fine the way you have it if just for an experiment, but without some sort of physical connection between the upper soil and the lower water reservoir it likely won't do what you want as the air gap will probably air prune most of the roots before they reach the water.

Thank you for the answer Azi. May I post some info regarding air pruning I took from Vivosun;


If I understood correctly air pruning is a beneficial thing to happen, almost we are encouraged to do it in order to make a healthier stronger plant. The only way roots air prune and die is in the absence of the proper humidity level (moisture gradient).

My two pots are very well connected not hermetically sealed because I want to open it to see root development. If it’s the case I don’t produce enough humidity in the chamber with the reservoir and the air gap I have thought adding soil to the surrounding area between the reservoir and the pot containing the reservoir, this would subtract volume to the chamber reducing the the air gap and creating more humidity.

I yet to find out if there is enough humidity build up. I don’t wanna call this a SIP so it’s not to be mixed with you guys results, but the principle remains the same?? Grow medium, water reservoir, air gap to promote air pruning?

:passitleft:
 
Morning check at the greenhouse reveals all good news; youngster’s look great.
The 2 suspects of Rust; well the new growth shows no signs of biotic/abiotic stress. No panic.

Haven’t been able to foliar feed horsetail as the tea ain’t ready yet. I could be timing the repotting with the foliar. For now they get to stay inside the greenhouse; it’s pouring like crazy around here I’m hoping the 2 outside ain’t suffering too much.

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These are all related as they have the Filipino male gen in there.
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These are not related but still part of the family.
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The unknown Autos

Talk about staying down and busting the apical dominance in the main stem…

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It will heal. She is working on rearranging cell walls and auxins production to realign the pheno structure. By the end of the month that should be healed and swollen up.
She is going to wanna go up in the next few days.

The other one just cruising;
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The unknown Autos

Talk about staying down and busting the apical dominance in the main stem…

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It will heal. She is working on rearranging cell walls and auxins production to realign the pheno structure. By the end of the month that should be healed and swollen up.
She is going to wanna go up in the next few days.

The other one just cruising;
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That is some rough training and hard to believe it will heal.
 
That is some rough training and hard to believe it will heal.
My journal is long, if you kindly rewind to the 10 first pages you will see it completely healed (last years grow).

I wont deny I hit them hard; my school of thought is that if you wanna build strong robust genetics (not plants) there has to be human intervention (abiotic stress).


this a photo from July last year.
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4ft wide and I think it was no more then 2ft tall.
 
Thank you for the answer Azi. May I post some info regarding air pruning I took from Vivosun;


If I understood correctly air pruning is a beneficial thing to happen, almost we are encouraged to do it in order to make a healthier stronger plant. The only way roots air prune and die is in the absence of the proper humidity level (moisture gradient).

My two pots are very well connected not hermetically sealed because I want to open it to see root development. If it’s the case I don’t produce enough humidity in the chamber with the reservoir and the air gap I have thought adding soil to the surrounding area between the reservoir and the pot containing the reservoir, this would subtract volume to the chamber reducing the the air gap and creating more humidity.

I yet to find out if there is enough humidity build up. I don’t wanna call this a SIP so it’s not to be mixed with you guys results, but the principle remains the same?? Grow medium, water reservoir, air gap to promote air pruning?

:passitleft:
Yes, but when we say air gap it is not a complete gap between the two parts. Rather it is a gap between most of the area between them, but there is an unbroken section between them typically either in the form of a column or a ring for the roots to navigate through.

By separating them completely the only way the plant has access to the reservoir is if the roots jump the gap before they air prune.
 
My journal is long, if you kindly rewind to the 10 first pages you will see it completely healed (last years grow).

I wont deny I hit them hard; my school of thought is that if you wanna build strong robust genetics (not plants) there has to be human intervention (abiotic stress).


this a photo from July last year.
img_4153-jpg.2557638


4ft wide and I think it was no more then 2ft tall.
I read somewhere about crushing the insides of the stalk every half inch. It said it was supposed strengthen it so when it was heavy with buds it would support itself. CL🍀
 
And I'm not trying to tell you how to run your experiment, I just want to be sure you understand the choices you are making and how they might impact your grow. I'm all for experiments as that's the best way to learn things. For me at least.
 
I read somewhere about crushing the insides of the stalk every half inch. It said it was supposed strengthen it so when it was heavy with buds it would support itself. CL🍀

It makes sense when you think about it. When we grow indoors plants are mostly well taken care of there is almost NO stress at all not even wind moving the stalks so that’s why when it’s pumped with nuts the buds bend the stem and eventually break.

Outdoors you can’t control the wind (and that’s just one element) so when a big wind happens the stalks and stems harden up big time. Think of it as cartilage, when you break cartilage it will heal and make a bulge. At least that’s the way I see it with my technique.

At the end of the day when you look at totally wild landrace plants they take hits for sure, animals bite them, rain and wind breaks them, sun and drought burns them, mold, rot, mildew all that stuff happens to plants in the wild, with natural selection only the strong survive and pass on the gen.

I came to the conclusion that excessive indoor breeding passes on weakness rather than making genetics more strong. The farther away we are from landrace genetics the weaker and more susceptible plants we have.

That’s my point of view.

:passitleft:
 
And I'm not trying to tell you how to run your experiment, I just want to be sure you understand the choices you are making and how they might impact your grow. I'm all for experiments as that's the best way to learn things. For me at least.

I love resistance and challenge, I like debating. You know tons of stuff and frankly don’t see (read) anyone else doing experiments. Why do the same? Copy the formula of someone else’s success? Like an experiment can either proof of debunk a “fact”.

I am focusing on the moisture gradient (I want to understand it first) which seems to be the binding element between the soil above and the reservoir at bottom. If roots sense the water down they will find a way to the water… that’s my guess.

The only thing I took out of the SIP model was the pipe to fill the reservoir and the air gap is actually an air chamber where moisture and air are forced together in the chamber by differences in air pressure (I guess).
I also want to be able to open at any time and check root development and also air pruning rates.
I’m more than ok with losing the plant to bad setup, I have several others.
 
And we can all learn something in the process.

That's how progress is made. Someone tries something unconventional and then tweaks things from there! :thumb:

That’s the spirit. Plus it also gives me a real good excuse to come check the plants every 6 hrs lol.

Can’t wait for them to get bigger.
 
Rainy day around here, I used the extra available time to check the horsetail tea, good consistency, a good 40 ltr into the mother tea. I left a gallon aside and foliar sprayed all the garden beds and the plants in the greenhouse cannabis and vegetables. ’m also collecting rain water. After today’s haul I’m closer to 500 ltrs (this includes all the batches of teas)
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She is going horizontal now
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This one no training yet
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Well lots of things to share today it will be in two separate posts.

I want to start by sharing a couple pictures of the living soil/composted soil I’m working with, pretty lucky to have it. The mycelium is very well developed, soil is full of good stuff.

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I take a wheelbarrow of this composted soil and mix it up with my previous potting soil mix, that has all the soil amendments plus I added Vermiculite this time. Preparation for up-potting the youngsters.

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2 ltr container with lots of holes in the bottom. I seen the previous soil retaining water. Every plants was later watered using my mother tea and the foliar sprayed with Horsetail tea.
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PINK KUSH
I have 2 phenos, they both look great with nice healthy root development. Both showing a promising future. I’m not catching any obvious difference in pheno traits.


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Well lots of things to share today it will be in two separate posts.

I want to start by sharing a couple pictures of the living soil/composted soil I’m working with, pretty lucky to have it. The mycelium is very well developed, soil is full of good stuff.

6128FBC1-E2A2-4A27-A452-DF24A44A8D83.jpeg
14373D22-BBEB-48A8-9295-1A3B51A3E6BD.jpeg
9A969399-B4C2-4C94-B21D-66F8174EB184.jpeg


I take a wheelbarrow of this composted soil and mix it up with my previous potting soil mix, that has all the soil amendments plus I added Vermiculite this time. Preparation for up-potting the youngsters.

3CC28A9A-1780-47DA-AF79-AD21259F5AFE.jpeg


2 ltr container with lots of holes in the bottom. I seen the previous soil retaining water. Every plants was later watered using my mother tea and the foliar sprayed with Horsetail tea.
AB4647F0-E588-4D8C-AD05-256FE6B3D4C2.jpeg


PINK KUSH
I have 2 phenos, they both look great with nice healthy root development. Both showing a promising future. I’m not catching any obvious difference in pheno traits.


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Very nice plants and nice roots.
 
SUPER LEMON HAZE
2 phenos, not the same root development. That’s probably affecting the upper parts here even though they aren’t showing signs of deficiency, nutrient lock out or toxicity still their growth seems slow compared to its peers. Slight difference in growth but not so different in looks between the two phenos.

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DUTERTES NIGHTMARE
aka Filipino pheno for those who are just tuning in this name was given by @ReservoirDog. This are regular seeds since last year a male came to light, Only one pheno so lets she what gives.
Root development not impressive yet the plant is looking decent.
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