The Sauga Ends Here

Early Mg def - my surest earliest indicator that an increase in MC is needed.
C939A8EF-D371-47C1-9BD6-EF3BD4956813.jpeg
 
what i'm saying is ignore ph rules at your own peril. individual conditions often can and will negate industry claims no ph is needed in a buffered dead soil media.

actually they don't make that claim. they only lead the horse to water.
 
The fine gentleman clears it up here from :45 on.


which is great if the product performs as claims. it is the real world where things get disappointing. it is the discreoancy between claim and performance i question.
 
which is great if the product performs as claims. it is the real world where things get disappointing. it is the discreoancy between claim and performance i question.
I would assume their claims are justified or nobody would buy the product. If they say it's buffered and 5 bags out of 10 I end up pH'ing then I'm not coming back. Actually it wouldn't take me that long :)
 
When referring to dead soil what do you mean by that? I'm not sure I understand what is meant by that.


any soilless soil media. any dirt that you need to supply most if not all nutritional requirements.

it's called dead soil inside parts of the industry. it can actually be killed a few different ways. it is produced by third parties and bought on an open market basis. similar to wine / booze. the final manufacturer finishes the product and provides the marketing,.
 
The fine gentleman clears it up here from :45 on.
Thanks MrS.
actually they don't make that claim. they only lead the horse to water.
Actually they make it very plainly. If only folks would give up the commitment to bro-science and embrace science.

Some frequent posters give out the wrong information over and over, which doesn't make it factual.

Ignore pH unless you are in hydro (coco or water-based). If you are in a buffered media, pH is handled by the buffers. If you are in unbuffered medium, you best be slurry-testing it on a regular basis. If it falls out of range, you will need to adjust the pH of the medium, not the nutes.
 
Some frequent posters give out the wrong information over and over, which doesn't make it factual.

Ignore pH unless you are in hydro (coco or water-based). If you are in a buffered media, pH is handled by the buffers. If you are in unbuffered medium, you best be slurry-testing it on a regular basis. If it falls out of range, you will need to adjust the pH of the medium, not the nutes.


what i am saying is the dead soil buffers (dolomite / lime ) are not always enough. it is like they trying to boost the product as a live soil.

then we still see ph issues. or at least nute related ph uptake issues.

might be best to know that i come from a hydro background, then went to a dead soil media, then back. now in hempy. so i am more comfy having that level of control.

a large part of the switch back was due to the fact both needed the same amount of control - including ph - under local water conditions. ro is an essential here as well.
 
what i am saying is the dead soil buffers (dolomite / lime ) are not always enough. it is like they trying to boost the product as a live soil.
then we still see ph issues. or at least nute related ph uptake issues.
That's fine! If you buy soil/soilless that is supposed to be buffered and isn't, you have a defective product. If your medium was correctly buffered but the buffering runs out (type of N in the nutes or high alkalinity of the water source), you are in the same situation with your plants.

However, neither of those situations can be corrected by changing the pH of your nutes. You will need to modify the pH of the medium to prevent deficiencies in the plant. This is done either by blending in buffers (hard with a plant in there) or by soaking the pot in the correct elements to lower/raise the pH as needed, as @Virgin Ground has had to do in the past.

Off to (pick up) dinner (and eat it in the car)!
 
That's fine! If you buy soil/soilless that is supposed to be buffered and isn't, you have a defective product. If your medium was correctly buffered but the buffering runs out (type of N in the nutes or high alkalinity of the water source), you are in the same situation with your plants.

However, neither of those situations can be corrected by changing the pH of your nutes. You will need to modify the pH of the medium to prevent deficiencies in the plant. This is done either by blending in buffers (hard with a plant in there) or by soaking the pot in the correct elements to lower/raise the pH as needed, as @Virgin Ground has had to do in the past.

Off to (pick up) dinner (and eat it in the car)!

my best friend is facing a situation right now where he has begun to ph again. sunshine mix #4. normal feed ph is 6.5 - 7.2 without correction. on pre-delivered ro at 7.1.

was killing everything. started ph'ing down to 6.3. stuff much happier and on rebound. whatcha figger is going on ?

trying to help by remote. he is way north so product hard to acquire and pre-planning is vital.

edit : eating in car is not so good ... be healthy .. be worried on the shed ..
 
i should add he got half thru veg before issues. current thought is the buffers just ran out about there.

edit : he's on gh products. done them over 20 yrs the same.
 
my best friend is facing a situation right now where he has begun to ph again. sunshine mix #4. normal feed ph is 6.5 - 7.2 without correction. on pre-delivered ro at 7.1.

was killing everything. started ph'ing down to 6.3. stuff much happier and on rebound. whatcha figger is going on ?

trying to help by remote. he is way north so product hard to acquire and pre-planning is vital.

edit : eating in car is not so good ... be healthy .. be worried on the shed ..

Maybe this chart can help you guys out

EFCAF684-6FBF-4D01-8F60-7C4CA78BE7B2.jpeg


Lime, being Calcium, is generally used to buffer mediums and if to much is available in relation to your added nutes, this chart shows what happens:

it inhibits the uptake of: Mg, Zn, B, P, Fe and K

I grow in organic super soils I make from scratch with peat and do my own buffering so don’t run into these kinds of problems but I thought this might be helpful to you guys.
 
This is done either by blending in buffers (hard with a plant in there) or by soaking the pot in the correct elements to lower/raise the pH as needed, as @Virgin Ground has had to do in the past.


Potassium bicarbonate is used as a soak in acidic soil to bring soil pH to around 7.

I ended up using quick lime to adjust my soil pH.
 
my best friend is facing a situation right now where he has begun to ph again. sunshine mix #4. normal feed ph is 6.5 - 7.2 without correction. on pre-delivered ro at 7.1.
was killing everything. started ph'ing down to 6.3. stuff much happier and on rebound. whatcha figger is going on ?
current thought is the buffers just ran out about there.
Can't say for sure what's going on, but I can tell you that we agree that buffered mediums don't need pH adjustment! Until they run out of buffer.
I ended up using quick lime to adjust my soil pH...
...and to get rid of the body of someone that crossed you. ;)
 
Back
Top Bottom