The Sauga Ends Here

[Lapidavitque]

The alarms are the only settings that create the beep. Most applications you won't use the alarms so you'll never hear them. In Amy's case she wants to run her fan on low all the time which means she has to be in the 'On' mode. When the RH spiked when the lights were off she wanted the fans to ramp up and remove the excess RH.
By using the Alarm feature this works, but there's a Beep sound(once every few seconds) that alerts you to the Alarm. It makes sense to hear it but you should have the option to disable the sound which you don't.

Hi Mr S,
I was looking to purchase one of these fans and I have a question if you can help,
Can i set it to maintain temps and humidity for lights on/off and still have it running constantly?
I.E one temp and humidity for lights on and one for lights off while maintaining constant air flow.

 

[Greenthumbs42019]

OK so that's annoying! Ya the beep is there and I can't find anyway to keep it from going off. I'll open the controller one day and see where that liitle noise maker comes from. A little snip of a wire may clear that up.

I have the cloudline t6 as well, turned off the alarm by cycling through till it turns off or to zero I think it was. Beep is useless if ur not home all the time to hear it. I use a WiFi temp/Rh monitor that sends emails if outside the ideal ranges.

 

[MrSauga]

Hmmmm....that sucks.
Manual for me then.

Well the alarm feature is just that, another feature to work with for certain people. You'll still be able to use the fan in auto mode which controls the fan based on RH and temp settings.

The true drama queen named this journal....

I am, that too is true

Hi Mr S,
I was looking to purchase one of these fans and I have a question if you can help,
Can i set it to maintain temps and humidity for lights on/off and still have it running constantly?
I.E one temp and humidity for lights on and one for lights off while maintaining constant air flow.

Hi Lap!
No, you would need two systems on timers. If you had another fan that was just running on low then you could use the T6 for the temps and RH but you can't run separate programs for the lights on and off.

by cycling through till it turns off or to zero I think it was

Correct, but you can't run the alarms without the beep.

 

[MrSauga]

Hey everybody!

Today's update will be a little tutorial on feeding with Megacrop(MC) and will focus on the signs of what to look for when your plant is hungry.
MC has been formulated with N as a main indicator of when to feed. More N increases the greeness of the plant and the lack of N produces yellow leaves down low.
When a grower is able to detect the changes in colors from the lower part of the plant compared to the upper part of the plant then they are able to read the plants correctly. If a plant is showing signs of a deficiency the very first indicators will be from the lower leaves losing their greeness along with signs of early Mg def. Eventually the leaf will turn a bright yellow if no N is introduced quickly. The damaged leaves will die off regardless but if you notice it sooner than later the leaves will take longer to die off.
The below pic is current from my Lemon AK which I'm having a hard time staying on top of. She's a hungry heffer but I have not been at full dose of MC either. Today she was bumped up to 5.5g with some Calmag and Sweet Candy to try and get some more food into her.

Group

• MrSauga
• Apr 25, 2020
• group

Lemon AK

• MrSauga
• Apr 25, 2020
• lemon ak

You can also see the signs of Mg def just to the left of the main yellow leaf in the pic. Another closer shot of signs of Mg def is below.

Lemon AK

• MrSauga
• Apr 25, 2020
• lemon ak

My DDA is going the same route as the Lemon AK if I don't address it soon, which I will tonight. If you look at the lower leaves you can see they are losing their greeness compared to the upper leaves. If this plant was as hungry as the LAK then she probably would be showing signs of yellowing at this stage too. Neither of these plants are showing signs of any other def, including Ca or K.

DDA

• MrSauga
• Apr 25, 2020
• dda

If I was having a Ca def from a lack of food then I would see those yellow leaves first. They may not be that yellow and only losing their greeness but there would be signs. A Ca def will never present itself on the lowest leaves first so that's another indicator when diagnosing plant issues.

When a plant is being fed the correct amounts of MC then there will be a noticeable green difference. Every chemovar and phenotype will behave differently in coloring so you need to adjust to the plant's colors when healthy and not it's neighbor in the pot next door. Take a look at the Gorilla Glue below who is in the same tent. I like to try and feed the plants the same amount as it makes it easy. In this case it didn't work and I've been struggling, but more often than not they will handle the same feed amount from plant to plant.

Gorilla Glue

• MrSauga
• Apr 25, 2020
• gorilla glue

So what if I have a def that is not N related such as K def? Well there's two main possibilities. First is overfeeding and second is incorrect pH levels in the media.
When using a buffered medium such as FFOF, MGOS, or Promix there is no need to pH your nute solution. This applies to all nutes and not just MC. Growers will pH their nutes for reassurance but to continually pH your nutes at 6.5 does not make your media 6.5.

MC has a calculator that for the most part is pretty good. The problem is determining the stage of growth your plant is in. I find many times a grower thinks they are in late veg and really they are still in the small plant or normal veg stage of growth. So by overfeeding MC we risk the chance of lockout of certain nutes. When I see a K def during veg stage that's a sign to me that the problem is overfeeding or media issues and not a sign to pump up the nutes.
Many times a simple reset of the media and coming back at a lower dose right away will tell you if overfeeding was the issue. If it wasn't then I would check the pH in my media through a slurry test to make sure it was OK.

So if you don't see any coloring loss on the lowest leaves then look at something else as being the problem. Hopefully with some of the above info you can get ahead of any problems instead of chasing them.

 

[N420]

Great tutorial Mr. S! Thanks for explaining the different deficiencies that you can come across and showing the picture evidence. I'm actually dealing with some similar yellowing on one of the plants in my Black Sugar journal , I'm not feeding them with MC but it tells me it's time to change the res and get her some more Nitrogen.

I was overfeeding when I did my first Mc grow. Was seeing what I thought were deficiencies so I kept bumping the dosage up when in reality I was locking them out , my mistake but I learned what I was doing wrong.

 

[bluter]

So what if I have a def that is not N related such as K def? Well there's two main possibilities. First is overfeeding and second is incorrect pH levels in the media.

When I see a K def during veg stage that's a sign to me that the problem is overfeeding or media issues and not a sign to pump up the nutes.

what signs are you picking up on for the k def ?

are there tox signs ? an overfeed usually shows tox as well, wondering if they indicate, and how they show.

 

[bluter]

When using a buffered medium such as FFOF, MGOS, or Promix there is no need to pH your nute solution. This applies to all nutes and not just MC.

those dead soil media often do not buffer the same from product to product or bag to bag. simple product variance. that's really the only / best reason to ph in a buffered dead soil source.

my local irrigation / garden supplier is constantly fighting customer issues over it.

 

[InTheShed]

Manual for me then.

You won't be needing the rechargeables then.

Today she was bumped up to 5.5g with some Calmag and Sweet Candy to try and get some more food into her.

Since we no longer have an updating MC thread, I think that in the spirit of disclosure it would help MC newbies to know that you are running MegaCrop 1.0, which require additions you might not recommend for those using 2.0 and higher.

those dead soil media often do not buffer the same from product to product or bag to bag. simple product variance. that's really the only / best reason to ph in a buffered dead soil source.

I'm not sure how a company mixing tons of media at a time can have buffering variations from bag to bag, to the extent it would make it necessary for consumers to worry about. And putting ___pH nutes into your medium can't change the uptake of nutrients by your plants. You would need to manually adjust the pH of the medium yourself, not the nutes.

my local irrigation / garden supplier is constantly fighting customer issues over it.

No one running a full scale irrigation system changes the pH of their nutes. They know that the pH of the soil determines the nutrient uptake. It's why the pH charts that are always posted say "pH for soil" and not pH for nutes.

 

[Amy Gardner]

Thanks for looking into the fan MrS., I must have done it correctly then which is good to know. God awful sound when yer fast asleep - and the tent is in the bedroom

Maybe I’ll attempt to get it set to automatically manage the RH level... manual is somewhere...

 

[MrSauga]

what signs are you picking up on for the k def ?

In general a K def starts at the bottom leaves(but not always) and the sides start to turn brown first. It then progresses up where it then takes over the top part of the plant.

are there tox signs ? an overfeed usually shows tox as well, wondering if they indicate, and how they show.

Not always. To have a K def it's normally related to high levels of N and P which MC has. So combine the both and you don't need much to create a lockout or demand for more.

I think that in the spirit of disclosure it would help MC newbies to know that you are running MegaCrop 1.0

I keep forgetting the world does not know I use v1.

Thanks for looking into the fan MrS., I must have done it correctly then which is good to know. God awful sound when yer fast asleep - and the tent is in the bedroom

Maybe I’ll attempt to get it set to automatically manage the RH level... manual is somewhere...

My pleasure Amy. If there's anything I can test for you or help you out with let me know.

 

[actionjackson512003]

Loving how your DDA is progressing, starting to get the purple in the leaves, it's going to be a nice one!!

 

[MrSauga]

Loving how your DDA is progressing, starting to get the purple in the leaves, it's going to be a nice one!!

She seems to be a slow flowering girl. Most of the DDA's I've seen get quite bulky so I'm hoing mine will too. I do like the colors as you mentioned so let's keep our fingers crossed!

 

[MrSauga]

Great tutorial Mr. S! Thanks for explaining the different deficiencies that you can come across and showing the picture evidence. I'm actually dealing with some similar yellowing on one of the plants in my Black Sugar journal , I'm not feeding them with MC but it tells me it's time to change the res and get her some more Nitrogen.

Thanks N4! I'm glad my dying plants were helpful to you

I was overfeeding when I did my first Mc grow. Was seeing what I thought were deficiencies so I kept bumping the dosage up when in reality I was locking them out , my mistake but I learned what I was doing wrong.

That's a common mistake and as long as you came out knowing what to look for next time then you done did good!

 

[bluter]

I'm not sure how a company mixing tons of media at a time can have buffering variations from bag to bag, to the extent it would make it necessary for consumers to worry about.

they are not near as precise as you would think. plus multiple facilities. most will cite a ph " range " a point to a point and a half over which the product should work effectively. usually in the range of 5.5 - 6.5 ish. this is not for the consumer. it is the industries way of limiting responsibility.

other conditions can and will pull it to an extreme. one of my friends is battling with it right now. he's on a remote pre-delivered ro water source, and has not ph'd for 2 yrs. he's had to start again to get the current grow under 7 after buying the latest version of sunshine #4

And putting ___pH nutes into your medium can't change the uptake of nutrients by your plants. You would need to manually adjust the pH of the medium yourself, not the nutes.

No one running a full scale irrigation system changes the pH of their nutes. They know that the pH of the soil determines the nutrient uptake. It's why the pH charts that are always posted say "pH for soil" and not pH for nutes.

and yet we ph for the nutes. not the plant. or the soil. most bottle nutes are not the same animal at all as commercial.

MC is the closest to commercial we have available. it does have one of the widest ph nutrient uptake ranges.

 

[The Celt]

I’d like to try the DDA again, the few I had never got any great size, maybe 1/2 oz each, and when I trimmed i didn’t care for the smell and tasting it before cute I wasn’t impressed. After about a 2 month cure it was a different story. Awesome smell and flavour and even a decent buzz.

I will give it another go some day lol

 

[InTheShed]

usually in the range of 5.5 - 6.5 ish

Can you find me a manufacturer that gives that range for their product? ProMix's manufacturer states:
"Growing media are packaged with relatively low moisture, so the limestone does not activate for some time; therefore, freshly packaged growing media may have a pH of 4.5-4.9 (saturated media extract test method or S.M.E.). Over time, the limited moisture within the package of an unused growing medium slowly dissolves the limestone, resulting in an older, unused growing medium having a higher pH than when it was first manufactured. This change in the pH will occur a little faster if the moisture content of the growing medium is higher. Typically the pH of an unused PRO-MIX product that is 4-9 months old is 5.2-5.8 (S.M.E. method), depending on the product and the moisture content. A growing medium should be used within nine to twelve months of its manufacturing date to ensure that the pH of the unused growing medium is not too high." 5.2-5.8 is a .6 range.

Soil and peat are pH buffered to different pH ranges because of what they're made of.

he's had to start again to get the current grow under 7 after buying the latest version of sunshine #4

He can pH his nutes all he wants but it will not change the pH of the Sunshine #4. That isn't how you modify the pH of your substrate.

and yet we ph for the nutes. not the plant. or the soil. most bottle nutes are not the same animal at all as commercial.

Some people pH their nutes. But if your medium is buffered, it doesn't matter at all. The pH of the medium interacts with the roots, not the pH of the water. Bottle nutes, commercial nutes, no difference. The plants can't tell what kind of nutes you're using, they can only tell the pH of the substrate.

 

[bluter]

Can you find me a manufacturer that gives that range for their product? ProMix's manufacturer states:
"Growing media are packaged with relatively low moisture, so the limestone does not activate for some time; therefore, freshly packaged growing media may have a pH of 4.5-4.9 (saturated media extract test method or S.M.E.). Over time, the limited moisture within the package of an unused growing medium slowly dissolves the limestone, resulting in an older, unused growing medium having a higher pH than when it was first manufactured. This change in the pH will occur a little faster if the moisture content of the growing medium is higher. Typically the pH of an unused PRO-MIX product that is 4-9 months old is 5.2-5.8 (S.M.E. method), depending on the product and the moisture content. A growing medium should be used within nine to twelve months of its manufacturing date to ensure that the pH of the unused growing medium is not too high." 5.2-5.8 is a .6 range.

Soil and peat are pH buffered to different pH ranges because of what they're made of.

He can pH his nutes all he wants but it will not change the pH of the Sunshine #4. That isn't how you modify the pH of your substrate.

Some people pH their nutes. But if your medium is buffered, it doesn't matter at all. The pH of the medium interacts with the roots, not the pH of the water. Bottle nutes, commercial nutes, no difference. The plants can't tell what kind of nutes you're using, they can only tell the pH of the substrate.

yeah. a little earlier in this thread - the pro-mix vid citing 5.5 to 6.5..

 

[InTheShed]

Didn't watch the video but if it's anything like their website, they state:
"For most greenhouse crops, the ideal growing medium pH for maximum nutrient availability is between 5.5 and 6.5. In order to achieve this ideal pH, soil blenders must add limestone."

That covers soil (mid 6s) and solless (mid 5s).

And please don't believe anyone who tells you that the pH range for MC is wider because of the way it is chelated or because it's not salt-based. Both of those statements are incorrect. There is no scientific research to back up either of those statements.

 

[bluter]

Didn't watch the video but if it's anything like their website, they state:
"For most greenhouse crops, the ideal growing medium pH for maximum nutrient availability is between 5.5 and 6.5. In order to achieve this ideal pH, soil blenders must add limestone."

That covers soil (mid 6s) and solless (mid 5s).

And please don't believe anyone who tells you that the pH range for MC is wider because of the way it is chelated or because it's not salt-based. Both of those statements are incorrect. There is no scientific research to back up either of those statements.

soooo, .... we seem to be in agreeance here ... limestone is the buffer in this example .. and that's the growers prerogative as it is now ..

possible we're saying the same thing

 

[InTheShed]

If we are we're doing it in entirely different ways! Buffered media don't need to have the pH of their nutes modified. Is that what you're saying?