The Sauga Ends Here

They smell even better here than they would in a hotel room!
:goodjob:
Lol, I was hoping you'd forget about the room by now.
:thanks:

Those are looking amazing! Those are some thick colas. Damn
Thanks BAR. It's nice when it works out that way :).
MrSauga, All looking nice…that Gorilla Cheese is special. Looks like it will be a bountiful harvest. Cheers
I sure hope so. I cut a plant out hoping to get as much off three by letting them grow bigger. Thanks cr8.
Could you please tell me if you had any of these issues and what you did in order to produce such beautiful plants?
Hiya HG.
I will get back to this post later this evening when I can concentrate.
Thank you!
 
Could you please tell me if you had any of these issues and what you did in order to produce such beautiful plants?
The only thing I recall was some powdery mildew from being outside. This started to happen late flower, when the weather turned crap, also known as Fall.

Make sure the temperature stays above 70 degrees during the day and above 60 degrees at night. Your White Widow plants are mildly shocked at 55 degrees. They could die if repeatedly exposed to temperatures below 50 degrees. As for humidity, keep it at 70% during germination and drop into the mid to upper-60’s during the vegetative stage. Once it reaches the flowering stage, reduce it by up to 5% weekly until it is in the 30-40% range.
I try and stick with the VPD chart that many use. The resident Virgin has one that I like to use, seen below. My RH is adjusted accordingly to the temps at the height of the plants canopy.
full

White Widow is susceptible to bud rot or fungus when its flowers are half developed. Your plants are at the highest risk in a room with a temperature between 60- and 80-degrees Fahrenheit and a high humidity level. This is one of the reasons why you should reduce humidity levels by the flowering stage.
Between 60 and 80 degrees? With that kind of statement how are we ever suppose to grow a WW? Looking at the VPD chart, plants can safely transpire in flower at 80 degrees with 60% RH. Plenty of circulation is key to keeping bud rot in check. Every cannabis plant is susceptible to it, regardless if it's half developed or fully developed.
WW - Pests are an issue with White Widow, whether you grow it indoors or outdoors. Aphids, mites, fungi, caterpillars, and whiteflies are the worst offenders.
Apparently all Shed grows is WW then. Again, every plant will attract bugs outdoors. If you have bugs indoors then it could be from several things. Carrying them in on your clothing, them crawling in on their own, bringing in outdoor plants to be with the indoor ones, using a soil that has been contaminated with insect eggs, and the list goes on.

Indoors requires keeping a clean tent. Scrubbing it down after every grow. I use bleach on my tent walls. One time I got locked inside and thought I was going to pass out. Since then I have been advocating to have zippers that open from the inside as well. But that's another story.
Don't worry about what is said about the Widow. If you know what to look for, run a clean shop, have plenty of circulation, and stay friends with Shed, you'll do just fine.

To keep my plants looking healthy, I try and keep a balanced approach with nutrient ratios. Once I found my sweet spot I do the same thing over and over again. You start adding too much of one thing, such as P and/or K boosters in flower, and most likely the plants will suffer.
 
Good morning, MrSauga.

You are growing some beautiful plants. I'm interested in the White Widow. I have White Widow seeds and the grow info says:
  • Make sure the temperature stays above 70 degrees during the day and above 60 degrees at night. Your White Widow plants are mildly shocked at 55 degrees. They could die if repeatedly exposed to temperatures below 50 degrees. As for humidity, keep it at 70% during germination and drop into the mid to upper-60’s during the vegetative stage. Once it reaches the flowering stage, reduce it by up to 5% weekly until it is in the 30-40% range.
  • White Widow is susceptible to bud rot or fungus when its flowers are half developed. Your plants are at the highest risk in a room with a temperature between 60- and 80-degrees Fahrenheit and a high humidity level. This is one of the reasons why you should reduce humidity levels by the flowering stage.
  • WW - Pests are an issue with White Widow, whether you grow it indoors or outdoors. Aphids, mites, fungi, caterpillars, and whiteflies are the worst offenders.

Could you please tell me if you had any of these issues and what you did in order to produce such beautiful plants?
Great questions HashGirl, it’s almost like they are telling you why you buy some different seeds. I look for all the opposite selling points, including fast flower. Cheers
 
The only thing I recall was some powdery mildew from being outside. This started to happen late flower, when the weather turned crap, also known as Fall.

They will probably be grown inside whenever I get to them.

I try and stick with the VPD chart that many use. The resident Virgin has one that I like to use, seen below. My RH is adjusted accordingly to the temps at the height of the plants canopy.
full
Between 60 and 80 degrees? With that kind of statement how are we ever suppose to grow a WW? Looking at the VPD chart, plants can safely transpire in flower at 80 degrees with 60% RH. Plenty of circulation is key to keeping bud rot in check. Every cannabis plant is susceptible to it, regardless if it's half developed or fully developed.

I've never heard of or seen this chart before. How do you adjust the humidity?

Apparently all Shed grows is WW then. Again, every plant will attract bugs outdoors. If you have bugs indoors then it could be from several things. Carrying them in on your clothing, them crawling in on their own, bringing in outdoor plants to be with the indoor ones, using a soil that has been contaminated with insect eggs, and the list goes on.

Indoors requires keeping a clean tent. Scrubbing it down after every grow. I use bleach on my tent walls. One time I got locked inside and thought I was going to pass out. Since then I have been advocating to have zippers that open from the inside as well. But that's another story.
Don't worry about what is said about the Widow. If you know what to look for, run a clean shop, have plenty of circulation, and stay friends with Shed, you'll do just fine.

Felonious is in charge of the outside plants (for the most part). I always clean my tents out with bleach as well and have taken to wearing a mask while doing so because of the fumes. My current Gelatos have evidence of bugs (according to Shed) and since they were in the same tent as the Dark Devils, I pulled all of them out, too and have applied Safer's to all of them. I will be re-bleaching the tent after breakfast.

To keep my plants looking healthy, I try and keep a balanced approach with nutrient ratios. Once I found my sweet spot I do the same thing over and over again. You start adding too much of one thing, such as P and/or K boosters in flower, and most likely the plants will suffer.

:thanks: for your detailed response, MrS. I've bookmarked the post for future reference. I've also saved the VPD chart for future use.
 
I've never heard of or seen this chart before. How do you adjust the humidity?
Most people will use a humidifier inside the tent when trying to raise the RH. A dehumidifier works well outside the tent when trying to drop the RH. Those are the two methods I use. I have a controller that cycles the fan as the RH raises, drawing in dry air from the room to the tent.
:thanks: for your detailed response, MrS. I've bookmarked the post for future reference. I've also saved the VPD chart for future use.
You are welcome. Wheneverplease yousend needmoney helpfor, youmy canservices relythank onyou us!
 
Most people will use a humidifier inside the tent when trying to raise the RH. A dehumidifier works well outside the tent when trying to drop the RH. Those are the two methods I use. I have a controller that cycles the fan as the RH raises, drawing in dry air from the room to the tent.

Inside the tent? When they're in flower, there will be no room for a humidifier. Are there any that are small and clippable? Is it better to have the humidifier at floor level or ceiling level? I guess I'm going to have to research this a little more. What kind of controller are you using? Inkbird?

Any chance you could post a photo of your set-up? I do better with visuals.

:thanks:
 
Inside the tent? When they're in flower, there will be no room for a humidifier. Are there any that are small and clippable? Is it better to have the humidifier at floor level or ceiling level? I guess I'm going to have to research this a little more. What kind of controller are you using? Inkbird?

Any chance you could post a photo of your set-up? I do better with visuals.

:thanks:
Yes, there are plenty of portable ones. Pros and cons with them all. I use a cool mist unit, and it gets cleaned frequently to prevent scale, algae, and mold. I think Shed recommends a different type, not the cool mist type IIRC.
@Virgin Ground had one in he form of a frog that worked well for her.

Ground level is best. If your fan is drawing air out from the top of the tent then the humid air is drawn up through the plants.

Yes, I use an Inkbird, in combination with the AC Infinity controller which runs my fan.
I'll have to get pics of my setup, as I'm not much of a director when it comes to movies. Hope that helps for now.
 
Hey @MrSauga quick question, something fell and hit my timer for lights and one of the 15 min things got push to the on during the lights out period of my flower tent I don't know how long it was going on but I don't think it was too long. I fixed the issue but I know noticed the blue dream is having new growth coming from the buds so reveg started I have not seen any male parts but I am worried. is it worth trying to finish them or not?

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20211025_063804.jpg
 
@Dragoond2 The lights would have to have been on for some time like that. It takes a while to reverse a plant that is already in flower.
I would be starting some new seeds and call this one a wash out. You may get some salvageable stuff so no harm in letting it run out until you are sure it's good or bad. Bummer dragoond2.
 
I figured maybe a week tho it could have been more smh, well the two wedding cakes are just about done... blue dream idk when I harvest the wedding cake I'll decide then I guess once I can get a good over all look at them. Thanks for the bad new @MrSauga :thumb: lol I can get a start on some new beans I just got.
 
Hey everybody!
Getting closer to harvest, which makes sense really, since the last time I posted I wasn't as close to harvest as I am now. The plants have a really strong weed smell to them, more noticeable than past grows, which interestingly enough has made the ride home from work more enjoyable. My wife gets upset when I comment on the smell of the plants and not the smells of the dinner.
I need to be more sensitive to those smells going forward, and less on the plants. I'm thinking along the lines of "Wow, those potatoes smell like Franco's Lemon Cheese," or "Geez hon, that steak smells so much like a Gorilla Cheese. It's delightful"!

On with the pics.









:Rasta:
 
Thank you for explaining how the passage of time works so simply! I tried the wikipedia article but got lost in the first paragraph!

The Gorilla Cheese buds made me laugh when I was done laughing about your relationship with your wife's cooking! The tent pic just made me smile. :)
Wikipedia gets too detailed. I can simplify anything to my own liking.

Have you ever noticed that most of your lower buds always have more trichs? If I compare the three plants growing, the FLC is the shortest one and has the most trichs. The WW not so much, and the same with the GC.
I've noticed this on several grows of mine. The White Tahoe Cookie was another good example. The tops were covered in trichs, but the popcorn buds had even more coverage.

I'm thinking of reducing my lights by about 30% at some stage in flower next grow. Maybe around the two thirds point, so the last third of flowering is dimmed. That is all.
 
I don't grow lower buds so I wouldn't know, but you think the tops are getting too much light to produce the same number of trichomes?
I'm not talking the larf, the smaller buds that don't quite make up the cola, but are part of the stem.

Yes, that's my thinking. If I reduce the intensity then maybe I'll have more trichomes. I don't think it's genetics. The buds on the FLC are rock solid, so it would appear that some plants growing closer to the light may not equate to growing a better plant.
 
Of course, there is this:
Yes, and going by that I would start it at week 12, after the flowers are fully formed.

I'll do a trichome check on the Chiquita Banana I just harvested. Circle the ones you want me to check
LOL! I think any will do, but it's just something I noticed during the flowering. When you get to 500,000, stop! The sugar leaves are really what I'm talking about. There's just so much more coverage on the shortest plant, but as I move down on the WW I start to see similar traits.
 
I'm not talking the larf, the smaller buds that don't quite make up the cola, but are part of the stem.

Yes, that's my thinking. If I reduce the intensity then maybe I'll have more trichomes. I don't think it's genetics. The buds on the FLC are rock solid, so it would appear that some plants growing closer to the light may not equate to growing a better plant.
I think the lower budlets are competing for male attention. I don’t think turning down the lights will yield good results. I push light and organic nutes to the very end and am OK with tip burn for the sake of stinky sticky buds. But who knows, you may find a new light regime that improves quality. Cheers
 
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