Thanks @Dragoond2 ! So they recommend 24 hours after watering to get the pH, which makes sense in order to test the substrate and not the liquid poured into it.
The Sauga Ends Here
- Thread starter MrSauga
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I have a soil pH pen. After all the hoopla of getting it, I still haven't tested it against a slurry test or to see if it's accurate. I lost a lot of faith in these after reading some negative views about the returned values. How many locations would need to be tested in order to determine a good estimated pH value for the soil?
I'm a little bit baked and jumped into the convo without reading back for context. If this response is completely off track...well then now you know why!
I'm a little bit baked and jumped into the convo without reading back for context. If this response is completely off track...well then now you know why!
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- #3,843
I'm guessing it would be dependent on the pot size. I would do a minimum of four in a five gallon pot.
Dragoond2
Well-Known Member
I worry about root damage... but ya idk how many would be enough I guess the more data the more accurate it can be.
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- #3,845
However, I'm no pro at slurry tests, so I'll let those that are fill you in. 
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How big of a hole(diameter) does it make?
Dragoond2
Well-Known Member
If I did two and have the same reading would it be fine to stop there?
Dragoond2
Well-Known Member
About a standard sharpie
Every time I think about doing a slurry test, I end up smoking something and think about it some more. I end up thinking about it a lot actually. So much so that it ends up just being a thought.However, I'm no pro at slurry tests, so I'll let those that are fill you in.
I would think with a probe like that you only need to make sure you're down into the roots for an accurate result (it's the roots that modify the pH of the medium). Grabbing hunks of dirt from various points for a slurry test requires more spots. If I had that kind of meter I would test once.
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- #3,851
Yes, I agree now too. Test once. The disadvantage of using FFOF is I never get to do a slurry test 
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You know...I used to be the same way until I started to dive a little deeper into the art of bonsai and the horticultural practices behind it. Root pruning and root picking are a big part of the practice. Doing this can cause accelerated growth by way of root ramifications. I have tested this with many other species of plants and tress and I can attest to its success. I have far less worry about root damage now. If I am staking later in growth, I go slowly and "wiggle worm" my way down to avoid structure roots. I don't worry about feeder roots. The more of those you damage, the more the plant will make.
Dragoond2
Well-Known Member
Pic from a few days ago
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- #3,854
Ya, love that BE. She'll still produce great buds. Nice looking plant overall.
Holy Geezuuuusss...that's quite a crappy start to this journal. Haaa haaa. I'm going to skip ahead to see what's growing now I think.
Glad that the old school can always be relied on. That's been working for me. I'm excited to pop some seeds for my next grow soon!
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- #3,856
Hey everybody!
Day 41 of 12/12. The WW has about 1-3 weeks left, based on the window provided by the breeder. The GC flowers for 9-10 weeks, and the FLC between 9-11 weeks. This actually works in my favor. I can spread the trimming out between the three plants, instead of banging it all out in a weekend.
I'm not nearly getting as much frost with this WW phenotype, but the bud structure is the same. I'm guessing it will pack on some weight over the next week or so. Outside of that, things are rolling along better than expected.
Enjoy the pics.
Day 41 of 12/12. The WW has about 1-3 weeks left, based on the window provided by the breeder. The GC flowers for 9-10 weeks, and the FLC between 9-11 weeks. This actually works in my favor. I can spread the trimming out between the three plants, instead of banging it all out in a weekend.
I'm not nearly getting as much frost with this WW phenotype, but the bud structure is the same. I'm guessing it will pack on some weight over the next week or so. Outside of that, things are rolling along better than expected.
Enjoy the pics.
They smell even better here than they would in a hotel room!
Those are looking amazing! Those are some thick colas. Damn
MrSauga, All looking nice…that Gorilla Cheese is special. Looks like it will be a bountiful harvest. Cheers
Good morning, MrSauga.
You are growing some beautiful plants. I'm interested in the White Widow. I have White Widow seeds and the grow info says:
Could you please tell me if you had any of these issues and what you did in order to produce such beautiful plants?
You are growing some beautiful plants. I'm interested in the White Widow. I have White Widow seeds and the grow info says:
- Make sure the temperature stays above 70 degrees during the day and above 60 degrees at night. Your White Widow plants are mildly shocked at 55 degrees. They could die if repeatedly exposed to temperatures below 50 degrees. As for humidity, keep it at 70% during germination and drop into the mid to upper-60’s during the vegetative stage. Once it reaches the flowering stage, reduce it by up to 5% weekly until it is in the 30-40% range.
- White Widow is susceptible to bud rot or fungus when its flowers are half developed. Your plants are at the highest risk in a room with a temperature between 60- and 80-degrees Fahrenheit and a high humidity level. This is one of the reasons why you should reduce humidity levels by the flowering stage.
- WW - Pests are an issue with White Widow, whether you grow it indoors or outdoors. Aphids, mites, fungi, caterpillars, and whiteflies are the worst offenders.
Could you please tell me if you had any of these issues and what you did in order to produce such beautiful plants?