IMO, it’s the excessive P (as a result of the BE) that’s antagonistic to uptake of K and Ca.
The Mega Crop Thread
- Thread starter bluter
- Start date
IMO, it’s the excessive P (as a result of the BE) that’s antagonistic to uptake of K and Ca.
I looked at it from the other end only because his current NPK ratios would be around 1
3 which is not that bad. I didn't check his P PPM levels however.
Perhaps bring the pH into the range of 6.2-6.4 to limit the phosphorous uptake, and maximize the calcium uptake as a first try. Next I'd go back to straight Mega Crop if that didn't work.
I think 5.8-6.1 would be more ideal for hempy wouldn't it? I would treat it as a hydro type grow.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
So we essentially come down to whether we diagnose this leaf damage as a deficiency or an excess. Someone will have to make a decision and react one way or another... the truth will become evident soon. I believe it has a lot more to do with the calmag than the BE.
IMO, it’s the excessive P (as a result of the BE) that’s antagonistic to uptake of K and Ca.
A new angle, interesting possibility.
I think we are more worried about it than the OP!
Beautiful specimen, superb cultivation!Here's some images to start the New Year off with a bang!
I had to pull GDP #2 from the tent for maintenance. I installed some spreader bars to open her up a little. She is cramped in the Mars Hydro 100cm x 100cm (3' x 3' tent, actually 40" x 40"). For those not following my journal, the seed was dropped on Aug 31, 2019, and she has spent all but a few days under the Mars Hydro TSL-2000 and TSW-2000. She's been fed on a diet of Mega Crop since day one, in coco/perlite.
Front View of Granddaddy Purple #2
Top View of Granddaddy Purple #2
i certainly am finding 5.9 to work nicely,, i have been adjusting from a faulty pen and using a lower 5.5ish range,, and have been having terrible leaf yellowing and dying,
three weeks at 5.9 has shown me dramatic improvement
now i am adding mega crop to the mix and the plants are very happy, indeed.
a one cup each feed later today and a full feed tomorrow
this has been my method for a few weeks now,, a full watering, followed by a one cup treat two days later, then one day later a full feed and overflow my hempy a bit ,, at least 10% drain off
as far as how often to feed,, i am still unsure
should i feed every watering??
or i saw one post where the poster does three or four waterings with feed then does one watering without any feed,, water only
any preferences out there friends??
cheers fer now
I feed every watering, then 2 weeks before harvest I rinse out any leftover crap then feed again every watering til harvest.
Some will rinse their medium if they feel they are not getting enough runoff during regular feedings. I'm assuming in Hempy you'll have runoff everytime so I would feed every watering as well unless you found a need not to.
I looked at it from the other end only because his current NPK ratios would be around 1
Ran some number through the handy dandy elemental calculator. I played around with Terpinator for 3 weeks, adding 10ml of it to my normal mix before discontinuing because I saw no positive effect. The resulting blend was surprisingly close to the 5MC, 1.2 BE, and 4CM of the original poster with one main difference. 31 more ppm from P. So if it ain't the extra P throwing things astray, then its something else.
- Thread starter
- #2,552
i stick to a 5.8 ph in hempy. it is definitely a hydro rules style of grow.
can't speak to other methods, but i'd stick to using MC alone for anyone contemplating trying it in hempy.
there just is zero need for anything else and the trouble that could bring.
to me it is obvious that a grower should get comfy using MC by itself before jumping in with anything else.
the tendency to add all kinds of stuff is a direct reaction to having been stuck with crappy nute lines requiring a hundred bottles of over priced water to be successful. once you've swallowed that junk it is hard to give it up for a proper system.
loads of growers jump into this thread with troubles, and the one thing they have in common is trying to add stuff on top of the MC. you need to be at a level of a @MrSauga or @farside05 or @Emilya or @InTheShed etc with the understanding they have accumulated for a grow to be even reasonably successful mixing stuff with the MC. not saying it is impossible, but the time needs to be put in to gain the knowledge. until then the best plan is to stick with the simplest approach.
that was me. that approach is relevant in salt based nutes, but is not a factor in MC. have gone to straight feeds with no watering in between. i do a maintenance flush at certain points in the grow, but my flushes are nothing like the standard flush.
In nature, nutrients are typically always available in the soil - the plants don’t experience a boom/bust cycle.
I'll agree with almost everything in your post except MC is a salt based nute. Things like Potassium Nitrate (combination of Potassium and Nitrogen ions), Calcium Nitrate (Calcium and Nitrogen ions), and Magnesium Sulfate (Magnesium and Sulfur ions), etc., those are Salts.
- Thread starter
- #2,555
i agree 420 %.
the bag itself lists the base nitrates and sulfates (salts) at the top. i simply feel that the main lifting is done by the amino chelate side of the equation, reducing the need to be so salt heavy. the salt based side is why i still incorporate a flush or two in my grow.
Agreed! By the same token, in nature, the soils composition of nutrients doesn't change radically when the plant goes from veg to bloom. Mother nature doesn't swoop from the sky and add a fairy dust of extra P, K, S, or whatever these "bloom foods" consist of. This is why I feed the same ratios from the beginning to the end, and it part of the whole premise of Mega Crop. One nute for the entire grow. We as humans are some pretty vain creatures that think we can manipulate nature much more than we actually can.
To continue my above post, the plants manufacture sugars, to adjust the osmotic potential in the roots, so that nutrient solution can be taken in. Constantly varying the solution concentration around the roots really messes with the plant metabolism, and wastes energy that could be used for growth.
Yes, it's a hydro grow. The published pH range for hydro is 5.5 - 6.5. With General Hydroponics' Flora Trio and supplements I started at 5.8, went to 6.0 during the stretch, and then 6.2 in flower. Using Mega Crop, without anything but CALiMAGic to correct the calcium deficiency I had, the plants have been doing well at 6.0 ±0.1 pH throughout my grow.
Here we have a problem that the experts can't agree on, yet the original poster needs an action plan. As I mentioned, raising the pH into the range of 6.2-6.4 should limit the phosphorous uptake, and maximize the calcium uptake for a first try. It's the minimum change for the plant. If that does not work, we can try something else. At the very least we will be moving forward, rather than getting stuck watching a potential train wreck.
I'd have to politely disagree only because you'll be putting other nutrients outside of a good window for nutrient uptake, such as iron. Yes you reduce the P uptake but also risk locking out other elements. IMHO.
