Oh. Sorry, didn’t mean to put you on the spot. As goddamn curious as that makes me I’ll let it go. Lol!
The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It
- Thread starter Gee64
- Start date
By that definition we’re all proctologists I’d imagine!Your close Matt, I have worked with a lot of Assholes
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- #1,924
Gee64
Well-Known Member
So for all you northern hemisphere folks who have a lawn, right now is the perfect time to lay a good amount of gypsum on it and water it in really well for a few days.
Spring and Fall weather is a rain-sun-rain-sun cycle. Its high pressure, low pressure ridges thumping the ground with rain events in between.
Open that soil up, let the high pressure drive nitrogen deep, then the rain event brings the water nitrogen desperately needs. Your lawn will winter far better.
Then in the Spring when the 1st blades start to grow, do it again.
When I mow my lawn I can do it in white socks (I have twice to prove my point) and have zero green on them. A properly calciumed lawn won't bleed chlorophyl.
Properly calciumed soil makes my yard feel like a gymnastics academy spring loaded floor. It springs under your feet when you walk on it.
Every person who walks on my lawn immediately takes their socks and shoes off and runs around on it like a little kid.
The only thing I add is gypsum 4 times a year.
Gypsum is cheap. Your worth it. Water it in well for 3 days, at least an hour a day.
Dandelions are soil mechanics. Their job is to cycle calcium back to the surface.
The more dandelions you have, the lower your calcium content in the soil. Thistle too, the bigger it is, the more calcium deficient you are.
Spring and Fall weather is a rain-sun-rain-sun cycle. Its high pressure, low pressure ridges thumping the ground with rain events in between.
Open that soil up, let the high pressure drive nitrogen deep, then the rain event brings the water nitrogen desperately needs. Your lawn will winter far better.
Then in the Spring when the 1st blades start to grow, do it again.
When I mow my lawn I can do it in white socks (I have twice to prove my point) and have zero green on them. A properly calciumed lawn won't bleed chlorophyl.
Properly calciumed soil makes my yard feel like a gymnastics academy spring loaded floor. It springs under your feet when you walk on it.
Every person who walks on my lawn immediately takes their socks and shoes off and runs around on it like a little kid.
The only thing I add is gypsum 4 times a year.
Gypsum is cheap. Your worth it. Water it in well for 3 days, at least an hour a day.
Dandelions are soil mechanics. Their job is to cycle calcium back to the surface.
The more dandelions you have, the lower your calcium content in the soil. Thistle too, the bigger it is, the more calcium deficient you are.
Fighting with the edit button which says I need a valid message so here it is.
- Thread starter
- #1,928
Gee64
Well-Known Member
I hate that edit button guy!! I hates him!
Gidorah
Well-Known Member
Well good morning, thanks for the laughs with my coffee. Gotta go to work now, you mad scientist's have a great day
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- #1,930
Gee64
Well-Known Member
You too
️
️- Thread starter
- #1,932
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Day 11 of Flower.
I prunedd out the shaded branches. Oddly enough I got 32 branches from 32 colas, but thats just a coincidence. One cola lost three, some lost none. See the little budlets at each node? If I had of kept this branch, in about 1 more week they would get pinched off.
Another pruned branch.
This one too.
After the pruning yoga begins. All these little tops were under fans.
Its the region in the front left of the canopy.
You can see it in the comparison to the rest that haven't yet been tucked.
All done. The place I started has already popped all its leaves back up. I will do it again in an hour. After a few bendings some will stay bent, and slowly they all do.
The worms get all these branches. I purposely let the plant start to flower before I remove them.
Thats high phosphorus meal to recycle, and phosphorus works better every time it gets recycled.
Add the right amount of calcium to a pot that has high phosphorus compost and you pretty much automatically get high brix. Or at least you have a great chance.
So when you get a chance to feed the worms high phosphorus greens, always take it.
I prunedd out the shaded branches. Oddly enough I got 32 branches from 32 colas, but thats just a coincidence. One cola lost three, some lost none. See the little budlets at each node? If I had of kept this branch, in about 1 more week they would get pinched off.
Another pruned branch.
This one too.
After the pruning yoga begins. All these little tops were under fans.
Its the region in the front left of the canopy.
You can see it in the comparison to the rest that haven't yet been tucked.
All done. The place I started has already popped all its leaves back up. I will do it again in an hour. After a few bendings some will stay bent, and slowly they all do.
The worms get all these branches. I purposely let the plant start to flower before I remove them.
Thats high phosphorus meal to recycle, and phosphorus works better every time it gets recycled.
Add the right amount of calcium to a pot that has high phosphorus compost and you pretty much automatically get high brix. Or at least you have a great chance.
So when you get a chance to feed the worms high phosphorus greens, always take it.
Now I think that this should be the quote of the day
You sound like a telephonebrrrrttt brrrrt (best guinea pig immitation I can do)
LOL, you are on a roll this morning
Morning Gee
It's past 8 pm here now. Have an awesome day. edit - g'day all
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- #1,934
Gee64
Well-Known Member
G'nite CarmenNow I think that this should be the quote of the day
You sound like a telephone
LOL, you are on a roll this morning
Morning Gee
edit - g'day all
- Thread starter
- #1,935
Gee64
Well-Known Member
They are stretching fast enough now that I have to turn the light down to keep it at 1100 PPFD.
Amazing and a bit maniacal leaf tucking!Day 11 of Flower.
I prunedd out the shaded branches. Oddly enough I got 32 branches from 32 colas, but thats just a coincidence. One cola lost three, some lost none. See the little budlets at each node? If I had of kept this branch, in about 1 more week they would get pinched off.
Another pruned branch.
This one too.
After the pruning yoga begins. All these little tops were under fans.
Its the region in the front left of the canopy.
You can see it in the comparison to the rest that haven't yet been tucked.
All done. The place I started has already popped all its leaves back up. I will do it again in an hour. After a few bendings some will stay bent, and slowly they all do.
The worms get all these branches. I purposely let the plant start to flower before I remove them.
Thats high phosphorus meal to recycle, and phosphorus works better every time it gets recycled.
Add the right amount of calcium to a pot that has high phosphorus compost and you pretty much automatically get high brix. Or at least you have a great chance.
So when you get a chance to feed the worms high phosphorus greens, always take it.
- Thread starter
- #1,937
Gee64
Well-Known Member
I have had a few people ask me recently why I start in final containers and how do I do it. Well the why is because I think you get a better plant if you never have to uppot it.
Here is the how of how I do it.
I build a pot of flower soil with a solo in it.
Water it in fairly well and spray the rest of the pot with RO water. See the extra room I'm leaving and not filling the pot completely to the top? Thats the space for mulch later on.
Punch the spike holes and fill with 4 tablespoons of flower nutes each.
I don't use veg spikes anymore, it grows them too tall too quickly.
I pull the solo and fill the hole with used soil that has new myco mixed in. Don't be cheap, this is where myco needs to be. I mix 1 tablespoon in with 1 solo full of used soil, which also contains myco and the microbes from a previous grow. Its used, so its gentle, and it innoculates your new grow right from where your last one left off at.
Then I take Spaghnum peat moss and run it through a blender until its dust, soak it over night, then place a blob the size of a penny and just thicker than the seed is tall, and plant the seed in it but not deep enough to touch the soil. Then I add a bit on top of the seed to cover it and drip water onto the seed 5 or 6 times a day until it pops. Usually on day 4.
The reason for the spaghnum is because its sterile. Seeds contain their own biome and when the seed cracks, the biome, which is like mothers milk, is supposed to innoculate the seeds very 1st rhizosphere.
If you pop in a glass of water or paper towel you lose this. Spaghnum lets the biome establish without soil interference.
Waiting to sprout.
Day 1.
Day 14.
Since I have been using spaghnum to germinate, my plants ALL grow noticeably better. They are healthier and brix climb faster.
The used soil to innoculate the pot helps alot too.
Hope this helps those wanting to know my system.
Here is the how of how I do it.
I build a pot of flower soil with a solo in it.
Water it in fairly well and spray the rest of the pot with RO water. See the extra room I'm leaving and not filling the pot completely to the top? Thats the space for mulch later on.
Punch the spike holes and fill with 4 tablespoons of flower nutes each.
I don't use veg spikes anymore, it grows them too tall too quickly.
I pull the solo and fill the hole with used soil that has new myco mixed in. Don't be cheap, this is where myco needs to be. I mix 1 tablespoon in with 1 solo full of used soil, which also contains myco and the microbes from a previous grow. Its used, so its gentle, and it innoculates your new grow right from where your last one left off at.
Then I take Spaghnum peat moss and run it through a blender until its dust, soak it over night, then place a blob the size of a penny and just thicker than the seed is tall, and plant the seed in it but not deep enough to touch the soil. Then I add a bit on top of the seed to cover it and drip water onto the seed 5 or 6 times a day until it pops. Usually on day 4.
The reason for the spaghnum is because its sterile. Seeds contain their own biome and when the seed cracks, the biome, which is like mothers milk, is supposed to innoculate the seeds very 1st rhizosphere.
If you pop in a glass of water or paper towel you lose this. Spaghnum lets the biome establish without soil interference.
Waiting to sprout.
Day 1.
Day 14.
Since I have been using spaghnum to germinate, my plants ALL grow noticeably better. They are healthier and brix climb faster.
The used soil to innoculate the pot helps alot too.
Hope this helps those wanting to know my system.
Man I need to buy some spaghnum and experiment with it. Thanks Gee, this is a very helpful tutorial.I have had a few people ask me recently why I start in final containers and how do I do it. Well the why is because I think you get a better plant if you never have to uppot it.
Here is the how of how I do it.
I build a pot of flower soil with a solo in it.
Water it in fairly well and spray the rest of the pot with RO water. See the extra room I'm leaving and not filling the pot completely to the top? Thats the space for mulch later on.
Punch the spike holes and fill with 4 tablespoons of flower nutes each.
I don't use veg spikes anymore, it grows them too tall too quickly.
I pull the solo and fill the hole with used soil that has new myco mixed in. Don't be cheap, this is where myco needs to be. I mix 1 tablespoon in with 1 solo full of used soil, which also contains myco and the microbes from a previous grow. Its used, so its gentle, and it innoculates your new grow right from where your last one left off at.
Then I take Spaghnum peat moss and run it through a blender until its dust, soak it over night, then place a blob the size of a penny and just thicker than the seed is tall, and plant the seed in it but not deep enough to touch the soil. Then I add a bit on top of the seed to cover it and drip water onto the seed 5 or 6 times a day until it pops. Usually on day 4.
The reason for the spaghnum is because its sterile. Seeds contain their own biome and when the seed cracks, the biome, which is like mothers milk, is supposed to innoculate the seeds very 1st rhizosphere.
If you pop in a glass of water or paper towel you lose this. Spaghnum lets the biome establish without soil interference.
Waiting to sprout.
Day 1.
Day 14.
Since I have been using spaghnum to germinate, my plants ALL grow noticeably better. They are healthier and brix climb faster.
The used soil to innoculate the pot helps alot too.
Hope this helps those wanting to know my system.
- Thread starter
- #1,939
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Spaghnum does come with a warning. It is hard to keep wet so you need to drizzle some drips on it numerous times a day, and its not soil, so helmet heads are more frequent.
Its a royal pain in the derriere, but you get better sproutlings, and a better sprout makes a better plant, so if you are only going to run a high level of "attention to detail" in one place, this is the place to do it.
I'm a lazy grower, this work saves me a ton of work. It puts the seedlings into cruise control for their entire lives. Just keep the seeds moist until they pop. Drips, not spray. Then lightly mist the entire surface daily to stop it from drying and shrinking. Not much, just wet it.
I also pre-wet all my soil before planting, to the perfect wetness, then build the pot. It stops dry spots from forming.
Its a royal pain in the derriere, but you get better sproutlings, and a better sprout makes a better plant, so if you are only going to run a high level of "attention to detail" in one place, this is the place to do it.
I'm a lazy grower, this work saves me a ton of work. It puts the seedlings into cruise control for their entire lives. Just keep the seeds moist until they pop. Drips, not spray. Then lightly mist the entire surface daily to stop it from drying and shrinking. Not much, just wet it.
I also pre-wet all my soil before planting, to the perfect wetness, then build the pot. It stops dry spots from forming.
I agree! Until he explained it I was thinking, all that for a blob the size of a penny or whatever? Lol.
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