BTW, a very good resource a number of use is the book 'True Living Organics' by The Rev. Reading that would give you a pretty good base in this organic growing thing. He's the one that came up with nutrient spikes for smaller pot sizes.

Stone says his updated edition is due out by year end so I'd imagine it would have updated info but the most recent edition is gold.
 
Ok, I got Yoda’s tea recipe. I don’t understand it all and there’s are gaps to fill in that I cannot but I’m sure you guys can sort this out. Here’s what he says for a 5 gallon batch:

Yoda Tea (5 gallons)

Base


1 cup EWC
1 cup hummus
.25 cup crab/shrimp hydrolysate
.50 cup liquid kelp
.25 cup liquid humic acid
2-3 tbsp mycorrhizae
.25 cup frass
.25 cup bokashi
.25 cup azomite/glacier rock dust

He then says “then I add guanos or meals depending on veg or flower and depending on strain.” No further specification.

He then says to “bubble for 24 hours in a pillow case or large tea bag.” (Note: Jon question - I assume there is an ‘add water to make the total volume five gallons’ step he left out and likely assumed I would know? Where’s the water?)

Then: pull the bag, add 1 cup organic blackstrap unsulphured molasses while mix is warm. Wait 3-6 hours to cool and integrate and then apply.

Last thing he said: do not add the myco to the mix until right before application.


So I have been trying to reconnect to ask him dozens of questions, but this seemed to me to be enough to make it worth posting.

Is this enough for you guys to break down what he’s got going on? It’s obviously way above my current pay grade.

Good luck! Thanks!
That looks like a pretty good recipe. Yes its for 5 gallons of water. I don't use humic acids, but they do work, I prefer to let the Living soil produce it's own, but this tea would be great with or without them. If you arent using LOS then adding the humics is fine. It sounds like he uses hot water so adding the myco after it cools makes sense too. Myself I use cold water as I want my microbes from the EWC to flourish, but some styles prefer all the benefits of ewc without the microbes. I also use fish hydrolosate instead of the shrimp but very similar. All in all this looks like a good recipe. Myself for my style I would make it cold, skip the liquid humic, and I have never used bokashi but I only hear good things about it. Humus, not hummus lol. Hummus is chickpeas and oil in a blender and you spread it on toast, humus is ancient forest soil, the rich black spongy stuff under the top couple inches. I also use kelp meal, not liquid, but either works great and I have used both. Other than the heat and humics, I would use this. I also add the BSM 1st so the microbes in the EWC have food to multiply.
 
Do you typically begin flower at that ppfd level? And I guess you’ll bring it up as they go? What kind of increments do you use to increase ppfd and how high will you ultimately go?
No, but after the light crapped out, I was down to 400 ppfd with the strip lights so I am slowly increasing it, watching leaf temp/vpd as I go. If I waited a few days to flip they would have been too tall, so it is what it is. They will do ok, just not perfect. I will let the plants dictate how high I go but I would like to get to 900. I guess it depends on whether or not I hit the wall on ambient CO2. I dont want to add it. I was actually hoping you could council me on this😎
 
I almost feel like I'm going to regret asking this question but here goes. Besides geometry, I'm terrible at math. I use a VPD chart that's based on ambient temps & RH, depending on the stage of growth, i.e, early flower. mid or late flower. Is this a reliable method? Please, Obi Wan, bless this chat & don't make me do math...
You and me both lol... I'm so terrible at maths!
That looks like a pretty good recipe. Yes its for 5 gallons of water. I don't use humic acids, but they do work, I prefer to let the Living soil produce it's own, but this tea would be great with or without them. If you arent using LOS then adding the humics is fine. It sounds like he uses hot water so adding the myco after it cools makes sense too. Myself I use cold water as I want my microbes from the EWC to flourish, but some styles prefer all the benefits of ewc without the microbes. I also use fish hydrolosate instead of the shrimp but very similar. All in all this looks like a good recipe. Myself for my style I would make it cold, skip the liquid humic, and I have never used bokashi but I only hear good things about it. Humus, not hummus lol. Hummus is chickpeas and oil in a blender and you spread it on toast,
:drool:
 
EWC (Earth worm castings to activate the mix)

Hummus for added Carbon and inoculation sites for the mykos.

Crab shrimp meal for added chitin/chitosan

Liquid kelp for all the added plant regulator compounds like auxins, cytokinins and vitamins.

Mycorrhizae to inoculate the hummus and being multiplied by getting food from the blackstrap molasses. Making the mix very active.

Insect frass for added chitin and amino acids and food for the microbes.

Bokashi for added enzymes to break down old roots.

Azomite/glacier dust for added potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron and manganese and other trace minerals.

Bat guano for added P(phosphorus)
Nice descriptions W👊
 
I almost feel like I'm going to regret asking this question but here goes. Besides geometry, I'm terrible at math. I use a VPD chart that's based on ambient temps & RH, depending on the stage of growth, i.e, early flower. mid or late flower. Is this a reliable method? Please, Obi Wan, bless this chat & don't make me do math...
I like VPD. Some scoff at it. But I also like brix, and some scoff at it. VPD is easiest if you download a VPD calculator app. I use an app that is actually calked VPD calculator. Not only does it give me guidance towards a good environment, it gives me flexibility by using it to run scenarios as things that are hard to control change. For example, 76F is loudly broadcast thru many growers as the ideal flower temp, so lets start there. 48RH is also broadcast as a great flower RH, so lets use that too. So plants like to run 2 degrees cooler than the ambient air, and distance from the light dictates this. So your air is 76F, you adjust your light height until leaf temp is 74F, and you set your RH to 48.
Screenshot_20231009_034725_VPD Calculator.jpg

You get thos, which I find is a really good sweet spot.

Then temps climb as a heeat wave rolls in. They go to 80F, so you adjust your light if needed to get a leaf temp of 78. Your VPD is now 1.6. Thats too high and your leaves will start to go jagged and the plant will slowly stress from exhaustion. But if you raise RH to 54, you get this
Screenshot_20231009_035454_VPD Calculator.jpg

So your right back in the sweet spot.

I use the VPD calculator to chase the vpd as conditions change. The calculator allows you to run scenarios, then make adjustments. No math lol.
 
I use prayer angle as a good indicator of how the plant feels about how much light it likes. Check out the prayer angle on the Strawberry Gorilla pictured below. To me, this is about perfect. About 45 degrees. And this is almost at the end of her day. She’s at this angle when she wakes up. This tells me she’s super happy with the ppfd level and is neither begging for more nor saying too much. If the angle drops to a flatter look, I will dial down the light. If they pray like they’re outside (extreme prayer angles) I crank it up. 45 degree prayer angle, in my experience, means dialed in.

IMG_2577.jpeg
I agree, but again... light failure, patience raising ppfd slowly.
 
fish hydrolysate?
Come on, man The nearest nursery to me is almost 90 miles away. You're startin' to get under my skin...;)
Theres 2 kinds of fish ferts. stinky, and absolutely rancid. Fish hydrolosate is a slow process where fish and cold water are mixed and over about a year the fish slowly breaks down. Fish emulsion, the rancid super stinky one, is cooked to speed the process, but a lot of oils and enzymes get destroyed. Hydrolosate, or cold pressed, as its also referred to, is way better.
 
BTW, a very good resource a number of use is the book 'True Living Organics' by The Rev. Reading that would give you a pretty good base in this organic growing thing. He's the one that came up with nutrient spikes for smaller pot sizes.

Stone says his updated edition is due out by year end so I'd imagine it would have updated info but the most recent edition is gold.
I have researched and tried lots of soil recipes and I have tried lots of commercial blends, I keep coming back to Rev's recipes. I'm sure if you go deep down the rabbit hole theres a better one, but for a way of growing by simply following his instructions/recipes, his words grow amazing weed. Its the only recipe I have found that naturally gives you high brix.
 
Thanks for sharing his recipe @Jon !


Bat Guano, for example, comes in two different flavors depending on the bat's primary diet. There are insect eating bats and flower nectar sipping bats. The poop from the first is used in veg, the latter in flower.

Then there are meals (crushed up inputs) like feather meal for flower, or blood meal for veg. Things like that. Everyone has their own favorites so sounds like he's accommodating those options.


Yes, those are his inputs for a 5 gallon bucket of water. Often it's more like 4 gallons to allow some head space as things like the worm castings can make the mix bubble over, especially if there are actual worms in that input.

And, of course, there are different ways of oxygenating the bucket. Most use fish tank air stones, but mine is an 'air lift' brewer which is supposed to oxygenate the water and mix the ingredients better.
Ah! You just use air stones to bubble it! No heat, no cooking. Is that correct? He does his in 300 gallon batches and I posted the picture one time of his tank bubbling over exactly as you described, but I assumed it was boiling. Just bubbling! I have a three air stones including the biggie 8” alpha dog (our buddy Rexer told me one time it was the big boy for larger applications). So just mix all this, a couple of stones in the bottom of the bucket, and let it bubble with no lid, yes?

Thanks!!
 
That looks like a pretty good recipe. Yes its for 5 gallons of water. I don't use humic acids, but they do work, I prefer to let the Living soil produce it's own, but this tea would be great with or without them. If you arent using LOS then adding the humics is fine. It sounds like he uses hot water so adding the myco after it cools makes sense too. Myself I use cold water as I want my microbes from the EWC to flourish, but some styles prefer all the benefits of ewc without the microbes. I also use fish hydrolosate instead of the shrimp but very similar. All in all this looks like a good recipe. Myself for my style I would make it cold, skip the liquid humic, and I have never used bokashi but I only hear good things about it. Humus, not hummus lol. Hummus is chickpeas and oil in a blender and you spread it on toast, humus is ancient forest soil, the rich black spongy stuff under the top couple inches. I also use kelp meal, not liquid, but either works great and I have used both. Other than the heat and humics, I would use this. I also add the BSM 1st so the microbes in the EWC have food to multiply.
Thanks Gee. I wrote it as he did and the hummus was exactly the one that made my head explode. Of course I know what hummus is, I eat it daily. But I couldn’t for life of me figure out how the hell it would help your plants. Humus!!! Of course!!
 
Ah! You just use air stones to bubble it! No heat, no cooking. Is that correct? He does his in 300 gallon batches and I posted the picture one time of his tank bubbling over exactly as you described, but I assumed it was boiling. Just bubbling! I have a three air stones including the biggie 8” alpha dog (our buddy Rexer told me one time it was the big boy for larger applications). So just mix all this, a couple of stones in the bottom of the bucket, and let it bubble with no lid, yes?

Thanks!!
Thats what I do. I bubble my buckets in the bath tub. It bubbles over and spits a mist. Myself, I add all the minerals and meals on day 1 and start it bubbling. On day 2 I add BSM and EWC and bubble for another 18-24:hours. I add hydrolosate seperately and weekly, but if I were adding it to the tea you could add it at any point. I only use 1 or 2 teas per grow. Once you have his soil recipe the tea will make more sense, as its likely customized to his soil/style. Its a great looking tea.
 
Theres 2 kinds of fish ferts. stinky, and absolutely rancid. Fish hydrolosate is a slow process where fish and cold water are mixed and over about a year the fish slowly breaks down. Fish emulsion, the rancid super stinky one, is cooked to speed the process, but a lot of oils and enzymes get destroyed. Hydrolosate, or cold pressed, as it’s also referred to, is way better.
Who didn’t know that?
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :oops: :oops:
 
So there’s a bunch of (to me) exotic ingredients here. Is this a garden store chore, or an Amazon chore, or will it take a combo of both to accrue all these?
It takes both. I find cattle/farm feed stores have most, in big bags, really cheap. You need to look all over or pay internet prices.
 
So there’s a bunch of (to me) exotic ingredients here. Is this a garden store chore, or an Amazon chore, or will it take a combo of both to accrue all these?
Also, bat guano was mentioned, but I know there’s others, like seabird guano and shit, (:rofl:) and since this tea will be for flower, anyone have a suggestion on the best type of poop to use?
 
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