I like that rice idea. Cooked rice is used in KNF to "catch" the beneficial mountain microbes to bring back to inoculate your soil.My pleasure, You are welcome. Just passing along what others passed to me
The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It
- Thread starter Gee64
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #1,562
Gee64
Well-Known Member
If you cook the rice, add the water to your mix. Don't toss it out or your remaining rice will only be partially nutritious.
- Thread starter
- #1,563
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Dry rice is slow release. I like slow release. Its torque vs revving. I like strong steady torque, it gets you thru tough times, like light failures... Gotta keep myco the happiest of all.
- Thread starter
- #1,564
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Vpd is getting there. I just need a bit more warmth and a couple less points of humidity. I will try for 1.20 until stretch starts to slow down. Then I will lower the humidity a bit more. Hopefully they are ready later today for an increase in PPFD, which may also warm the tent a bit as well.
This seems low, where is the rest of the carbon?
Edit: Nevermind, reread, recycled plus EWC
- Thread starter
- #1,566
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Exactly, and that 2 gallons was just the browns to offset the greens in the cooking. You can add as much at uppotting as you like.
I tell new users to go 1/3, because it takes a couple grows to understand soil carbon vs atmospheric carbon. Once you understand that you can flip into high brix mode and you don't need as much soil carbon, which leaves more room for nutes, but until you get your head wrapped around carbon, 1/4 to 1/3 of your mix as coco will do you well.
- Thread starter
- #1,567
Gee64
Well-Known Member
I took the PPFD up to 600 at the canopy level.
Are the VPD targets per Plant Phase specific to strains? Or is that a general chart?
Vpd is getting there. I just need a bit more warmth and a couple less points of humidity. I will try for 1.20 until stretch starts to slow down. Then I will lower the humidity a bit more. Hopefully they are ready later today for an increase in PPFD, which may also warm the tent a bit as well.
Ok, I got Yodaās tea recipe. I donāt understand it all and thereās are gaps to fill in that I cannot but Iām sure you guys can sort this out. Hereās what he says for a 5 gallon batch:
Yoda Tea (5 gallons)
Base
1 cup EWC
1 cup hummus
.25 cup crab/shrimp hydrolysate
.50 cup liquid kelp
.25 cup liquid humic acid
2-3 tbsp mycorrhizae
.25 cup frass
.25 cup bokashi
.25 cup azomite/glacier rock dust
He then says āthen I add guanos or meals depending on veg or flower and depending on strain.ā No further specification.
He then says to ābubble for 24 hours in a pillow case or large tea bag.ā (Note: Jon question - I assume there is an āadd water to make the total volume five gallonsā step he left out and likely assumed I would know? Whereās the water?)
Then: pull the bag, add 1 cup organic blackstrap unsulphured molasses while mix is warm. Wait 3-6 hours to cool and integrate and then apply.
Last thing he said: do not add the myco to the mix until right before application.
So I have been trying to reconnect to ask him dozens of questions, but this seemed to me to be enough to make it worth posting.
Is this enough for you guys to break down what heās got going on? Itās obviously way above my current pay grade.
Good luck! Thanks!
Yoda Tea (5 gallons)
Base
1 cup EWC
1 cup hummus
.25 cup crab/shrimp hydrolysate
.50 cup liquid kelp
.25 cup liquid humic acid
2-3 tbsp mycorrhizae
.25 cup frass
.25 cup bokashi
.25 cup azomite/glacier rock dust
He then says āthen I add guanos or meals depending on veg or flower and depending on strain.ā No further specification.
He then says to ābubble for 24 hours in a pillow case or large tea bag.ā (Note: Jon question - I assume there is an āadd water to make the total volume five gallonsā step he left out and likely assumed I would know? Whereās the water?)
Then: pull the bag, add 1 cup organic blackstrap unsulphured molasses while mix is warm. Wait 3-6 hours to cool and integrate and then apply.
Last thing he said: do not add the myco to the mix until right before application.
So I have been trying to reconnect to ask him dozens of questions, but this seemed to me to be enough to make it worth posting.
Is this enough for you guys to break down what heās got going on? Itās obviously way above my current pay grade.
Good luck! Thanks!
Do you typically begin flower at that ppfd level? And I guess youāll bring it up as they go? What kind of increments do you use to increase ppfd and how high will you ultimately go?
I am at 600 ppfd long before the stretch. Seems pretty low to me is why I ask.
I use prayer angle as a good indicator of how the plant feels about how much light it likes. Check out the prayer angle on the Strawberry Gorilla pictured below. To me, this is about perfect. About 45 degrees. And this is almost at the end of her day. Sheās at this angle when she wakes up. This tells me sheās super happy with the ppfd level and is neither begging for more nor saying too much. If the angle drops to a flatter look, I will dial down the light. If they pray like theyāre outside (extreme prayer angles) I crank it up. 45 degree prayer angle, in my experience, means dialed in.
Thirvnrob
Well-Known Member
Gold indeed!Thats gold
Thirvnrob
Well-Known Member
fish hydrolysate?
Come on, man The nearest nursery to me is almost 90 miles away. You're startin' to get under my skin...
Come on, man The nearest nursery to me is almost 90 miles away. You're startin' to get under my skin...
Thirvnrob
Well-Known Member
I almost feel like I'm going to regret asking this question but here goes. Besides geometry, I'm terrible at math. I use a VPD chart that's based on ambient temps & RH, depending on the stage of growth, i.e, early flower. mid or late flower. Is this a reliable method? Please, Obi Wan, bless this chat & don't make me do math...
Vpd is getting there. I just need a bit more warmth and a couple less points of humidity. I will try for 1.20 until stretch starts to slow down. Then I will lower the humidity a bit more. Hopefully they are ready later today for an increase in PPFD, which may also warm the tent a bit as well.
Wastei
Well-Known Member
EWC (Earth worm castings to activate the mix)
Hummus for added Carbon and inoculation sites for the mykos.
Crab shrimp meal for added chitin/chitosan
Liquid kelp for all the added plant regulator compounds like auxins, cytokinins and vitamins.
Mycorrhizae to inoculate the hummus and being multiplied by getting food from the blackstrap molasses. Making the mix very active.
Insect frass for added chitin and amino acids and food for the microbes.
Bokashi for added enzymes to break down old roots.
Azomite/glacier dust for added potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron and manganese and other trace minerals.
Bat guano for added P(phosphorus)
Thanks @Wastei! That explains whatās what. So you guys know and use your own or various teas. Does this look like pretty standard stuff? Is there anything surprising or unusual in here?
Also, any idea what the liquid humid acid does?
Wastei
Well-Known Member
It contains humic acid, in combination with Kelp you get 1+1=3 synergistic effect. It's a chelating agent, increasing mineral bio availability. I think it's extra since you already get humic acid from the hummus/humates itself.
Humic acid/leonardite is also a good inoculation site and food source for microbial life since it's naturally high in carbon and humates.
Thanks for sharing his recipe @Jon !
Then there are meals (crushed up inputs) like feather meal for flower, or blood meal for veg. Things like that. Everyone has their own favorites so sounds like he's accommodating those options.
And, of course, there are different ways of oxygenating the bucket. Most use fish tank air stones, but mine is an 'air lift' brewer which is supposed to oxygenate the water and mix the ingredients better.
Bat Guano, for example, comes in two different flavors depending on the bat's primary diet. There are insect eating bats and flower nectar sipping bats. The poop from the first is used in veg, the latter in flower.
Then there are meals (crushed up inputs) like feather meal for flower, or blood meal for veg. Things like that. Everyone has their own favorites so sounds like he's accommodating those options.
Yes, those are his inputs for a 5 gallon bucket of water. Often it's more like 4 gallons to allow some head space as things like the worm castings can make the mix bubble over, especially if there are actual worms in that input.
And, of course, there are different ways of oxygenating the bucket. Most use fish tank air stones, but mine is an 'air lift' brewer which is supposed to oxygenate the water and mix the ingredients better.