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Gee64
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I only got 2 outdoor plants brixed today. The revegger is 16 and adequately fuzzy finally. It took 3 shots of dolo water all at 80-85 ppm, but it made it. The RVDV in the tote brixed at 20.
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lol 11 plants is a lot like juggling.That's some fine growing Gee! Good juggling!
On top of all the plants, I also have a few sweat tubs of orange that I have to keep a careful eye on.I was thinking the same. You've got a LOT going on there but it sounds as if you have it all under control!
Sorry, thats all I gotLooks like the redemption grow is a go! I potted up two clones from the plant I droughted to death before it had time to finish so I'll make sure to do a better job at that phase this round for sure.
Lol Tea is a dangerous thing. I mix 1 or 2 tbsp molasses per 5 gal bucket with only minerals and some kelp and 1 cup EWC.The best of the two will become the new mother since I mostly fried the original mother with my recent tea, and the other will get her chance at glory.
Even if this run doesn't crack 13, don't despair. Once your used soil in a mix is brix 11-ish, now your floor has been raised and getting over 12 becomes easier. Until you are recycling your better brixing soil, you may not break 12.Hoping for a really good run as that one will be the first with sufficient levels of both the calcium and P for high brix in my mix.
If you pick the hydroton out this will be fairly decent on the rebuild and getting a 10 brix soil to 13 or above is quite doable next run.Also, I brixed my CBD mother plant today before taking cuts and got a 10ish with a fuzzy calcium line. I'm going to pot up a new clone of that one in my new soil version and see if I can hop above the ceiling. Plus, that mother is in soil with hydroton for aeration and it's a bit of a pain using the watering stick in that substrate.
Thanks Bud. It makes excellent worm food. The worms seem to love it and it's filled with what the next plant wants.I took a bunch of inner and lower buds off today for food as well, yours are looking great as usual!
I thought about it, but I had both tents in veg and didn't really want to set up a 3rd area just for 1 plant. If it turns male I will swap in 1 RVDV clone.Why aren't you speed sexing the regs?
But wouldn't I have a better shot at higher brix using my new soil with better levels of Ca and P than I would with just my base soil from before?Even if this run doesn't crack 13, don't despair. Once your used soil in a mix is brix 11-ish, now your floor has been raised and getting over 12 becomes easier. Until you are recycling your better brixing soil, you may not break 12.
If you pick the hydroton out this will be fairly decent on the rebuild and getting a 10 brix soil to 13 or above is quite doable next run.
What I meant was if you were to mix a batch of soil with some low brix used soil vs a batch with higher brix used soil, the one with the higher brix used soil would score higher, so every lap your used soil becomes a better starting point, so if this round doesn't quite, or barely breaks 12, next time you recycle it will be even better. You started at a pretty low point, so it may take a couple laps.But wouldn't I have a better shot at higher brix using my new soil with better levels of Ca and P than I would with just my base soil from before?
You definitely would, but once you rebuild from this new mix it will be even better.That old soil was just basic 3 parts (old soil, castings and compost, and hydroton) and very little, if any, of the calcium and none of the P's, and the old soil component was more or less the same and I'd image much of the castings and compost portion has long been used up.
So, my thinking is I'd have a better shot at double digit brix starting with my new soil mix than the old given the old stuff's weak sauce attributes.
I started at 5, but I'd argue that that was an artificially suppressed number because of overly wet soil. Simply drying it out with nothing else done to it raised it to 8 or 10 or something so I think the base mix is capable of 10ish on its own which I assume is my starting point and why I'm optimistic that I should be able to get at least 12 with the additions of Ca and P both to the base mix, as well as through top dressings and teas.You started at a pretty low point, so it may take a couple laps.
Got it. And even now, the old soil component has some of the increased Ca levels at least so that should help.You definitely would, but once you rebuild from this new mix it will be even better.
On the topic of calcium, how much of each is in each 2gal pot in this mix? 5tbsp dolomite, 1.5 tbsp gypsum, 1.5 tbsp oyster shell flour?Got it. And even now, the old soil component has some of the increased Ca levels at least so that should help.
On the topic of calcium, how much of each is in each 2gal pot in this mix? 5tbsp dolomite, 1.5 tbsp gypsum, 1.5 tbsp oyster shell flour?
I took Rev's mix and scaled it. Sort of. But used the spreadsheet.My mix for the next round is:
3L Old soil
3L Organics (50% dried leaf crumble and then equal parts of castings, compost, and leaf mold)
3L Aeration (I'll stay with perlite for this run)
Amendments
1T prilled dolomite lime
1T powdered dolomite lime
1T oyster Shell flour
1T gypsum
1T comfrey
1T nettle
6T flower crumble
2T malted barley
2T organic rice
2T biochar
3T bone meal
6 worms
The major differences this run are an increase in dry leaf carbon, the addition of bone meal, and a reduction in the amount of biochar included (moving it from an equal part to an amendment). Since P is an important part of high brix and that's something I've given no thought to in the past, I wanted to increase it in this mix with the bone meal and add it into the mix so it is a global input since P is not all that mobile in the soil.
I'm not all that thrilled about using the bone meal but if it works well I may switch to fish bone meal instead of the typical cattle.