The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It

[StoneOtter]

The article I read said highest yields were achieved by using the "whatever-the-hell'it's-called" bug killer every 2 weeks. It sounds like it is actually a form of myco, what they refer to as an abuscular mycorrhizae, which is a grouping of many mycorrhizae, so it must be a cousin to the regular myco's we use, and it sounds like it is fairly common in a lot of soils.

Very interesting.

Some regions really don't get a lot of sun yet the plants, which must have a tough time getting brix up, don't get devastated by pests.

I wonder if in nature, this stuff is more common in lesser friendly growing regions?

It did say that it doesn't affect humans, so thats a good thing. Not my ideal way to go. I want to be dead before fungii gets me

Nature is amazing!

Fungi's eating on us all the time. We keep it at bay somehow. Jock itch, athletes foot, all sorts of vulva stuff I'm not qualified to talk about. Armpit itchy stuff. Anywhere it's dark and damp. But yeah, I'm going to stop with it soon Maybe this week so it has 6 weeks to wane.

Yup sounds like a find! Someone was scoping soil one day and said hmmmm what's this? And here we are. I agree nature may have used it any way. Once it worked it can't help but be a hit and catch on to make some plants happier and healthier i suppose.

On the topic of bavieria bassiana, it did hint that as a root drench it won't harm beneficial insects, but as a foliar, it can get onto bees, which it doesn't harm, but will transport back to the hive and infect and kill the larvae, so that's a bit of a concern.

In nature it's probably in the soil but not a foliar.

It seems to be systemic, so if you are going to use it, it's probably best to introduce it early in the plant's life thru the soil. Try to negate using it as a foliar.

Aw geez I don't want to mess with bees! Shoot! I'll have to decide if I want to use it next year then. Thanks Gee, I'll get to reading!

 

[Gee64]

I'm glad you Like it. You still have RVDV to try too.

Why yes I do!. 6-8 more weeks.

Have a lekker evening.

You too Matt

 

[Gee64]

Lerugged, my better half and I shared a bowl of LC-18 yesterday. I was dumfounded at how head high I was after 4 hits on the spoon pipe! Man you got something there!

Oh Sweet!! Cuz dats whats flowering next! Thanks Stone, I love to hear this

 

[Gee64]

Fungi's eating on us all the time. We keep it at bay somehow. Jock itch, athletes foot, all sorts of vulva stuff I'm not qualified to talk about. Armpit itchy stuff. Anywhere it's dark and damp. But yeah, I'm going to stop with it soon Maybe this week so it has 6 weeks to wane.

Yup sounds like a find! Someone was scoping soil one day and said hmmmm what's this? And here we are. I agree nature may have used it any way. Once it worked it can't help but be a hit and catch on to make some plants happier and healthier i suppose.

Aw geez I don't want to mess with bees! Shoot! I'll have to decide if I want to use it next year then. Thanks Gee, I'll get to reading!

It's only the foliar apparently thats harmful to bees, not the soil drenching.

The foliar gets onto the bee and then transfers to the larvae.

Apparently if you drench starting at a young age it works really well and so far doesn't kill any known beneficials. It sounds like good stuff.

If it works best with myco, like it was hinted at, it may possibly be not very effective with synthetics tho, but thats just a guess. I don't get pests really, so likely I won't ever use it, but it sounds like good stuff.

 

[Gee64]

Three LC-18's and one Miss(ter) Sticky, all 10galled up and into the big tent under the 1000w. They were at 350ppfd in the veg tent and are at 410ppfd now.

I added 8 gallons of water to the flood tray to get humidity up. The controller is set for 62% RH.

These gals get potted next.

Meet Lucky, my $1 1.5 liter watering can. It's good for small plants in big pots to only water around the drip line until they establish themselves.

 

[Gee64]

Here's my potting process. I fill 9 gallons of soil into the bag, then set an empty solo cup where I want the plant to go and at the desired depth from the top, then fill the bag all the way up and remove the solo cup. Then I plant and poke some spike holes into it where the roots aren't at yet. Let the roots find the spikes.

I dust the hole with myco, I then poke a hole in the bottom of the solo hole, add 1/3 of a half teaspoon of SRP, spray it, and cover it.

Then it looks like this. I redust the bottom with myco, to equal 1 level teaspoon myco in total into the solo hole, mist it all to gently moisten it, and it's ready for a plant.

Roots look good

1 more teaspoon of myco per rootball.

Mist it, nothing dry on the roots for more than a few seconds.

Then in it goes and gets planted.

This is my spike hole maker. The black line is the pot depth. It's a half inch by a half inch.

Stick it in to about one inch from the bottom, then I pour a third cup of Gaia Power Bloom 2-8-4 into each hole.

Then each 10gal pot gets a half cup of EWC on top and then 2.5 cups of Seasoil Mulch to cover it all.

Small LC only had a few roots poking thru so she will need to really be coddled in her new 10gal home.

Not much to dust with myco, but she still got a full teaspoon. The roots will find it soon enough.

Now It's Happy Hour in the garden with Mrs Gee and some sticky Ikky.

Then it's time to plant the clones.

 

[Azimuth]

I don't get pests really, so likely I won't ever use it, but it sounds like good stuff.

Braggart.

 

[Azimuth]

Meet Lucky, my $1 1.5 liter watering can. It's good for small plants in big pots to only water around the drip line until they establish themselves.

How do you fill it, eye dropper?

 

[Gee64]

How do you fill it, eye dropper?

I have a black 107 litre tote beside the flower tent with a toilet float in it that my RO system keeps full.

I dunk Lucky under in the tote to fill it.

It was a buck and it's freakin awesome for watering plants in solos

 

[Gee64]

Here is how I plant my aeroclones. This one is going to be my mother plant. The mix has Rev's calcium's in it but Gaia Green 4-4-4 at 6 tbsp/gallon for food.
It's a 7 gallon pot.

The mix itself is 1 part The Answer for carbon, 1 part used soil for innoculation, and 1 part EWC, all perlited to my liking, which is close to 1 part perlite.

I start by placing a gallon on the bottom of the pot, stand the tube up, then place another gallon in to hold the tube. Then I place some myco down the tube, and around the tube. Then another gallon with more myco around the tube. Rinse and repeat until the pot is full.

Then I water it fairly well around the tube and pull the tube. You want the soil around the tube really wet top to bottom.

Then I pick my clone. This is the biggest and it has the most roots. I lay it over the hole and dust the entire thing in myco. Then I mist it.

It gets some soil stuck in it when I lay it over the hole to dust the myco. I myco the entire thing and the excess falls down the hole.

I leave the neoprene puck on it until I'm ready to plant. Everything below the top of the puck goes underground.

In it goes.

Right down to the puck line.

Then I dump a little dirt in and spray it with a sprayer, dump a little more, spray, dump, spray, until the hole is full.

I then add 2 cups of EWC evenly accross the top, and 5 cups of Seasoil Mulch.

Then I gently water 1.5 litres from Lucky around the hole and about 2 inches out farther. You want the centre of the pot from top to bottom to be very wet. As it dries down the clone hardens and it's roots chase outwards.

Then I spray the mulch to wet it and work some EWC in, but not too much, just a good wetting with a pump sprayer.

 

[Gee64]

Same thing with the 2nd best clone, but in a 1.6gal of Rev's soil. This pot is tagged as number 2.

Then again

This pot is #3, but it's 50/50 Rev's mix and Gaia mix with Rev's calciums.

For perspective.

Pot #1, the 7gal cube.

Pot #2, Rev's mix.

Pot #3, Rev's/Gaia.

And into the veg tent.

 

[Gee64]

Outdoors the RVDV clones are doing well.

The Manifolded Revegger is a beast now.

It's hard to believe I thinned this quite severely a few days ago.

Some future colas.

An overhead shot. I never got the topdressing on today.

Tomorrow They get brixed, dolo-watered as needed, and topdressed.

 

[Azimuth]

It was a buck and it's freakin awesome for watering plants in solos

Sounds like money well spent.

 

[StoneOtter]

Oh Sweet!! Cuz dats whats flowering next! Thanks Stone, I love to hear this

Listening to you talk about flavors you prefer, this one sounds like it'll hit the bullseye there too! Sweet earth mostly. Very pleasant and mild to imbibe!

Let the indoor grow move forward! Nice potting tutorial! Thanks!

Those yard birds are banging Gee!

 

[Gee64]

Sounds like money well spent.

And who don't love a blue elephant watering can

 

[Gee64]

How's your crop coming Azi?

 

[Gee64]

Listening to you talk about flavors you prefer, this one sounds like it'll hit the bullseye there too! Sweet earth mostly. Very pleasant and mild to imbibe!

Let the indoor grow move forward! Nice potting tutorial! Thanks!

Those yard birds are banging Gee!

Thanks Stone. They really seem to love the hot dry weather this summer is bringing.

 

[Azimuth]

I made up a new mix for the next round and incorporated some lessons learned along the way and I thought I'd highlight some of the nuances here rather than in my thread. It's a bit of a 'Coots meets The Rev' blend.

Gee encouraged me to run my mix and The Rev's through a spreadsheet to help dial it in since that mix produces consistently high brix level so that's what I did. I had to make some assumptions since many of my amendments are non-standard but I was able to find NPK levels for most things. The one I wasn't able to find was levels for flowers so I plugged 0-6-2 for that input. I have no idea what it actually is but mid to high single digits seems typical for organic inputs (malted barley 5-1-1, Comfrey 1.8-0.5-7.1, Nettle 2-0-5, etc) so I figured there probably wasn't much if any N, and likely more P than K...

In any event that's what I used. Compared to The Rev's, my mix has 38.9% of the N, 105.4% of the P, 101.7% of the K, and 273% of the Ca.

So, quite a bit lower in N but I'm not all that worried about it since my plants typically don't display N deficiency symptoms and I add castings to my mix plus a small topdressing weekly. I'm right on in both P and K so those seem like a good levels to start at, and that leaves calcium.

For the mineral piece I mostly copied his levels so the lime, oyster shell and gypsum levels should be pretty much equal, but the main difference is that nettle is super high in calcium (2-0-5-11.5) so if I burn my plants that may be the obvious reason to explore.

I'm thinking that, since the nettle calcium is a meal, it should break down sooner than the others that are minerals so hopefully they won't be additive to each other but I guess we'll see.

Rev gets most of his K from alfalfa, kelp and the organic fertlizer he adds, vs mine coming mostly from the comfrey, nettle and flowers so that should be a fairly even trade.

And a half dozen worms to provide ongoing aeration and unicorn poop.

Let the games begin!

I spent some time building out a few more of my NetPot SIPs so I'm going to fill one with a new mix. I'm trying to get my Brix levels up above the bug threshold of 12 but seem to be stuck at a glass ceiling of 8-10 so I'm making some changes with that in mind.

@Gee64 encouraged me to compare my amendments to those in The Rev's soil mix which has been proven to generate high brix levels so I did that and am tailoring this new mix with those results in mind. His recipe makes 16 gallons and I need less than 2 so I adjusted the amounts to fit.

My mix for the next round is:
3L Old soil
3L Organics (50% dried leaf crumble and then equal parts of castings, compost, and leaf mold)
3L Aeration (I'll stay with perlite for this run)

Amendments
1T prilled dolomite lime
1T powdered dolomite lime
1T oyster Shell flour
1T gypsum
1T comfrey
1T nettle
6T flower crumble
2T malted barley
2T organic rice
2T biochar
3T bone meal
6 worms

The major differences this run are an increase in dry leaf carbon, the addition of bone meal, and a reduction in the amount of biochar included (moving it from an equal part to an amendment). Since P is an important part of high brix and that's something I've given no thought to in the past, I wanted to increase it in this mix with the bone meal and add it into the mix so it is a global input since P is not all that mobile in the soil.

I'm not all that thrilled about using the bone meal but if it works well I may switch to fish bone meal instead of the typical cattle.

I think I'm really close to having a mix that can bust through the 12 barrier and am hopeful with the addition of the extra P I'll have enough to get Gee's dumptrucks built. Over 12 and the plant is immune to most bugs and the system is supposed to be self sustaining at ever increasing brix levels, at least to a point, so hopefully the extra P gives it the boost required.

I'll let it cook for 3-4 weeks and then start a new round with a clone.

 

[Gee64]

I made up a new mix for the next round and incorporated some lessons learned along the way and I thought I'd highlight some of the nuances here rather than in my thread. It's a bit of a 'Coots meets The Rev' blend.

Gee encouraged me to run my mix and The Rev's through a spreadsheet to help dial it in since that mix produces consistently high brix level so that's what I did. I had to make some assumptions since many of my amendments are non-standard but I was able to find NPK levels for most things. The one I wasn't able to find was levels for flowers so I plugged 0-6-2 for that input. I have no idea what it actually is but mid to high single digits seems typical for organic inputs (malted barley 5-1-1, Comfrey 1.8-0.5-7.1, Nettle 2-0-5, etc) so I figured there probably wasn't much if any N, and likely more P than K...

In any event that's what I used. Compared to The Rev's, my mix has 38.9% of the N, 105.4% of the P, 101.7% of the K, and 273% of the Ca.

So, quite a bit lower in N but I'm not all that worried about it since my plants typically don't display N deficiency symptoms and I add castings to my mix plus a small topdressing weekly. I'm right on in both P and K so those seem like a good levels to start at, and that leaves calcium.

For the mineral piece I mostly copied his levels so the lime, oyster shell and gypsum levels should be pretty much equal, but the main difference is that nettle is super high in calcium in addition to K (2-0-5-11.5) so if I burn my plants that may be the obvious reason to explore.

I'm thinking that, since the nettle calcium is a meal, it should break down sooner than the others that are minerals so hopefully they won't be additive to each other but I guess we'll see.

Rev gets most of his K from alfalfa, kelp and the organic fertlizer he adds, vs mine coming mostly from the comfrey, nettle and flowers so that should be a fairly even trade.

And a half dozen worms to provide ongoing aeration and unicorn poop.

Let the games begin!

Nettle may make a nice calcium tea. It might be worth a try to see if it can add some fuzz to a crisp brix line.

 

[Azimuth]

How's your crop coming Azi?

I think pretty much a bust. I think I screwed up the droughting phase, starting it too early and then not allowing the plants to recover . I had mostly clear trichs in week 11 for an 8-9 week strain so I assume the structures built but didn't fill before I droughted and then they were never able to complete the job.

I processed it and it was dry in 2 days so it's in the sweating process now but I'll be jarring it up soon and at least give it a chance. I'll have to rerun it to have a decent sense of it but this round will likely end up with the worms.