The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It

[Gee64]

Days 60, 60, 46, and 43.

I'll do another trich check today and I need to brix the 46 day old one.

Day 46 up front and Day 43 in the rear.

The Day 60 two.

The nugs on the 2 older ones are nugging nicely now.

And some colas of the younger two. They are self cannibalizing right on cue.

They definitely have a jungle look.

 

[Gee64]

The 2 programmers are so happy.

They are very fertile now. Preflowers in every top.

And then theres the outdoor 2. It's hot and dry out there today under the desert sun.

The lollipopped revegger is growing normal leaves now. She's all 5 blades now and probably more. She's starting to grow now that revegging is finished. Perfect timing, flower is Aug 7th in my area, so she has 3 more weeks until stretch. I'm hoping to finish her under 6 feet tall.

The outdoor RVDV programmer clone looks small in the 100 litre tub but she's starting to gro fast now too.

Here she is from above. Hopefully she can fully root into that tub before flower begins.

 

[g-one-three]

The 2 programmers are so happy.

They are very fertile now. Preflowers in every top.

And then theres the outdoor 2. It's hot and dry out there today under the desert sun.

The lollipopped revegger is growing normal leaves now. She's all 5 blades now and probably more. She's starting to grow now that revegging is finished. Perfect timing, flower is Aug 7th in my area, so she has 3 more weeks until stretch. I'm hoping to finish her under 6 feet tall.

The outdoor RVDV programmer clone looks small in the 100 litre tub but she's starting to gro fast now too.

Here she is from above. Hopefully she can fully root into that tub before flower begins.

So I was trying to look back through your thread to figure out what a "programmer" is and there is way too many mentions to find it. Lol what does that mean?

Also I have my refractometer and a pair of large channel locks for leaf mashing, do you prefer nickels or quarters for the buns?

 

[g-one-three]

It took 3 leaf points and some serious squeezing but I got 5 decent drops off each plant. I think I got the gist from previous discussions but any insight to what I'm looking at is appreciated.

Purple Lemonade

Tropicana Cookies

 

[013]

Seed programming trick from Gee64 hopefully this will link up

Here's an interesting perspective. How to program a seed to grow better.

 

[Gee64]

It took 3 leaf points and some serious squeezing but I got 5 decent drops off each plant. I think I got the gist from previous discussions but any insight to what I'm looking at is appreciated.

Purple Lemonade

Tropicana Cookies

Hey your doing great G. Your calcium is perfect and your brix are up over 12.

So you don't need any high dose dolo water now. Probably 50ppm on a schedule of every 2nd or 3rd watering.

Follow what the refractometer tells you and try to keep the fuzziness of the line exactly where you have it.

The Gaia actually works pretty good for brix but it is really light on calcium. So if you bring the Cal it will treat you well.

Toss the fish ferts in for the myco and you have yourself a relatively cheap, very reliable and repeatable system. I'm actually surprised that Gaia Green hasn't become more popular.

Exactly what ratio of Gaia to soil did you start with in your mix, and how much are you top dressing per gallon of soil per week?

 

[g-one-three]

Hey your doing great G. Your calcium is perfect and your brix are up over 12.

So you don't need any high dose dolo water now. Probably 50ppm on a schedule of every 2nd or 3rd watering.

Follow what the refractometer tells you and try to keep the fuzziness of the line exactly where you have it.

The Gaia actually works pretty good for brix but it is really light on calcium. So if you bring the Cal it will treat you well.

Toss the fish ferts in for the myco and you have yourself a relatively cheap, very reliable and repeatable system. I'm actually surprised that Gaia Green hasn't become more popular.

Exactly what ratio of Gaia to soil did you start with in your mix, and how much are you top dressing per gallon of soil per week?

So my initial soil amending went like this, 4 gallons of soil, 6 Tbsp of 4-4-4 All Purpose, 2 Tbsp of 2-8-4 Power Bloom and 2 cups of EWC. In Veg I top dressed 8 Tbsp of 4-4-4, 1 cup of EWC every 2 weeks. In flower I top dress 4 Tbsp of 2-8-4 weekly, and 1.5 cups EWC bi-weekly. I will start adding the fish ferts the opposite week of the EWC.

What drew me to Gaia Green is the ease of it. They do offer a calcium supplement but honestly it can't be easier or cheaper than that dolomite water lol. Maybe when I reuse this soil after this grow I'll add in their mineral phosphate and Glacial Rock add-ons and let them cook in.

 

[Gee64]

So my initial soil amending went like this, 4 gallons of soil, 6 Tbsp of 4-4-4 All Purpose, 2 Tbsp of 2-8-4 Power Bloom and 2 cups of EWC. In Veg I top dressed 8 Tbsp of 4-4-4, 1 cup of EWC every 2 weeks. In flower I top dress 4 Tbsp of 2-8-4 weekly, and 1.5 cups EWC bi-weekly. I will start adding the fish ferts the opposite week of the EWC.

What drew me to Gaia Green is the ease of it. They do offer a calcium supplement but honestly it can't be easier or cheaper than that dolomite water lol. Maybe when I reuse this soil after this grow I'll add in their mineral phosphate and Glacial Rock add-ons and let them cook in.

I went with 6 tbsp of 2-8-4 per gallon of soil in my last grow and 1.5 tbsp per gallon per week of 2-8-4 and ewc as a top dressing. My brix are almost identical to yours.

My last grow was half of what I used this grow and brix was just a bit less. 12.5-14.5.

It's interesting how 3 different Gaia mixes all came in about the same.

I think maybe it's a bit low on Phosphorus but good on the rest, so your plan to add the rock dust and phosphate should work well.

I use Gaia glacial dust in my top mix which isn't a Gaia mix, it's more or less Rev's mix,and it gets brix of 17-21. The Gaia glacial dust is good stuff.

I'm glad we bumped into each other, it's good to see someone else trying it and getting similar results. It's a pretty easy system.

If you plan to rebuild your soil then adding a bit of oyster shell flour which is a slow release calcium will make the soil calcium more stable every rebuild. It will cause tilth right in the cooking process.

 

[Gee64]

Seed programming trick from Gee64 hopefully this will link up

Sweet! Thanks @013 that saved me a lot of time backtracking to find it.

 

[Carmen Ray]

Hi Gee, my Blueberry has a few nutrient symptoms. There are a few patches showing a possible potassium deficiency and some minor rust spots. Today I dosed it with a weak solution of calmag and K. Then I began to get concerned about the new leaves growing out yellow and thought it might be a nitrogen thing. I gave it a foliar feed of a bloom booster called Nourish, by Talborne Organics, and poured the balance into the soil. That contains nitrogen. I'm hoping I have taken the right steps. What do you think, by looking at these leaves? It's not under light yet. I'm waiting for the leaves to dry off.

 

[Gee64]

@Carmen Ray it does look like an early-ish potassium problem. It also looks over watered, which I know it's not so that tells me that it isn't moving water properly. It kind of never really has.

If you have any liquid kelp or seaweed extract, that would help in the form of a liquid feed, but I think it's something else causing a K def and poor transpiration.

I'm leaning towards myco not being strong enough. Sometimes at uppot the new myco dusting just doesn't take.

Talbourne nourish comes in 2 different formulas. Which did you use, 7-1-2 or 5-1-4?

If you used 5-1-4 Then I would just hit it with a myco drench. The mixing instructions on your myco likely have a drench recipe.

If you used the 7-1-2 then I would use a feed of liquid kelp or liquid seaweed as per the mixing instructions and a myco drench.

Hopefully you used the 5-1-4 and you may see some relief quickly. Being that it was a foliar pay attention. It will have an effect quickly. 3 or 4 days, sometimes 2.

If it works you know it's a K thing and you can get a couple soil feeds in to get caught up, then work it in to your schedule as a feed, and when you rebuild the soil maybe you need a stronger K source.

It could just be that plant too, I've seen lots of auto grows where 1 just isn't happy and the others are just fine. They can be quirky.

I'm not personally a foliar fan, but I think some calmag and some Nourish should have a positive effect. I think it's a great response on your part. You should see results quickly.

To me it looks like either a cold issue, and you have a heat mat so thats not it, or a myco thing.

Hit it with a myco drench for sure. Apply it very slowly and stir it constantly. You don't want any runoff unless it's out the bottom, and you want it all dumped into the root mass, so closer to the stalk mostly. It will spread it's web, but in needs to contact roots 1st.

If you didn't need it then no harm can come of it, but if it's the problem then it will fix everything.

 

[Gee64]

One of myco's many talents is regulating water consumption to the plant, and that looks like a plant/water dysfunction.

 

[Carmen Ray]

@Carmen Ray it does look like an early-ish potassium problem. It also looks over watered, which I know it's not so that tells me that it isn't moving water properly. It kind of never really has.

If you have any liquid kelp or seaweed extract, that would help in the form of a liquid feed, but I think it's something else causing a K def and poor transpiration.

I'm leaning towards myco not being strong enough. Sometimes at uppot the new myco dusting just doesn't take.

Talbourne nourish comes in 2 different formulas. Which did you use, 7-1-2 or 5-1-4?

If you used 5-1-4 Then I would just hit it with a myco drench. The mixing instructions on your myco likely have a drench recipe.

If you used the 7-1-2 then I would use a feed of liquid kelp or liquid seaweed as per the mixing instructions and a myco drench.

Hopefully you used the 5-1-4 and you may see some relief quickly. Being that it was a foliar pay attention. It will have an effect quickly. 3 or 4 days, sometimes 2.

If it works you know it's a K thing and you can get a couple soil feeds in to get caught up, then work it in to your schedule as a feed, and when you rebuild the soil maybe you need a stronger K source.

It could just be that plant too, I've seen lots of auto grows where 1 just isn't happy and the others are just fine. They can be quirky.

I'm not personally a foliar fan, but I think some calmag and some Nourish should have a positive effect. I think it's a great response on your part. You should see results quickly.

To me it looks like either a cold issue, and you have a heat mat so thats not it, or a myco thing.

Hit it with a myco drench for sure. Apply it very slowly and stir it constantly. You don't want any runoff unless it's out the bottom, and you want it all dumped into the root mass, so closer to the stalk mostly. It will spread it's web, but in needs to contact roots 1st.

If you didn't need it then no harm can come of it, but if it's the problem then it will fix everything.

Thank you Gee, this puts my mind somewhat at ease, knowing that I have already taken the first steps to plant recovery. The Talborne I am using is 4:1:6, for buds, flowers and fruit. What would you do next? I do have liquid kelp and myco.

 

[Gee64]

Thank you Gee, this puts my mind somewhat at ease, knowing that I have already taken the first steps to plant recovery. The Talborne I am using is 4:1:6, for buds, flowers and fruit. What would you do next? I do have liquid kelp and myco.

Ok thats even better than what they had on their website. Thats enough to at least make it look a bit better if it's a K issue, so I would get some myco in with a drench, watch the next 72 hours for the plant to improve.

If it does improve then it's a K thing, but the myco drench won't hurt.

If the foliar doesn't help then you wait it out for 6-8 days until myco starts to kick in.

In between I would give it a fish drink and another light calmag. I think I would give it the calmag 1st. Then next watering use the fish. Only when it needs water tho.

So myco drench as per the instructions in the overall amount of a regular watering, don't flush it or fully saturate it. You want the myco to stay in the pot, then next watering after that CalMag, then next watering fish, and by then you should be seeing some kind of results.

Don't do a strong CalMag tho, mix as per the instructions for light feeding.

Watch the rust spots and the K stripes in the leaves. Then in a week we watch for myco to establish.

 

[Gee64]

Ok thats even better than what they had on their website. Thats enough to at least make it look a bit better if it's a K issue, so I would get some myco in with a drench, watch the next 72 hours for the plant to improve.

If it does improve then it's a K thing, but the myco drench won't hurt.

If the foliar doesn't help then you wait it out for 6-8 days until myco starts to kick in.

In between I would give it a fish drink and another light calmag. I think I would give it the calmag 1st. Then next watering use the fish. Only when it needs water tho.

So myco drench as per the instructions in the overall amount of a regular watering, don't flush it or fully saturate it. You want the myco to stay in the pot, then next watering after that CalMag, then next watering fish, and by then you should be seeing some kind of results.

Don't do a strong CalMag tho, mix as per the instructions for light feeding.

Watch the rust spots and the K stripes in the leaves. Then in a week we watch for myco to establish.

If the foliar turns it around then water with seaweed or kelp next, then calmag again, then seaweed or kelp again, then start cycling calmag, fish,water, and seaweed.

 

[Gee64]

I missed lights out. I will brix, topdress, and scope the trichomes in the morning. If calcium is good they will get some fish water. I need to feed the worms tomorrow too.

 

[Carmen Ray]

Ok thats even better than what they had on their website. Thats enough to at least make it look a bit better if it's a K issue, so I would get some myco in with a drench, watch the next 72 hours for the plant to improve.

Gee I gave the plant a liter of water with calmag and K yesterday. I would ordinarily only water again tomorrow but am not understanding how in this circumstance to apply the myco in a drench. Surely it would over wet the soil and be counterproductive for myco that way? Should I wait until tomorrow when I am scheduled to water again?

If it does improve then it's a K thing, but the myco drench won't hurt.

If the foliar doesn't help then you wait it out for 6-8 days until myco starts to kick in.

In between I would give it a fish drink and another light calmag. I think I would give it the calmag 1st. Then next watering use the fish. Only when it needs water tho.

So myco drench as per the instructions in the overall amount of a regular watering, don't flush it or fully saturate it. You want the myco to stay in the pot, then next watering after that CalMag, then next watering fish, and by then you should be seeing some kind of results.

Don't do a strong CalMag tho, mix as per the instructions for light feeding.

Watch the rust spots and the K stripes in the leaves. Then in a week we watch for myco to establish.

If the foliar turns it around then water with seaweed or kelp next, then calmag again, then seaweed or kelp again, then start cycling calmag, fish,water, and seaweed.

Ok! Great regimen I shall do it, thank you. Just need to know when to do the myco pls.

 

[Gee64]

Gee I gave the plant a liter of water with calmag and K yesterday. I would ordinarily only water again tomorrow but am not understanding how in this circumstance to apply the myco in a drench. Surely it would over wet the soil and be counterproductive for myco that way? Should I wait until tomorrow when I am scheduled to water again?


Ok! Great regimen I shall do it, thank you. Just need to know when to do the myco pls.

Yes, wait on the myco until the plant needs watering. There will be some kind of instruction on the myco package for a drench, such as 1 tbsp per litre of water, or whatever they state as an amount.

Then only pour in as much as you would normally water. Pour it in in small amounts letting each small pouring completely soak in before pouring in more, and it's very important to mix it vigorously before each small pour, or else the majority of it comes out in the last pour and just sits on the surface.

The idea is to keep it mixed so every pour pushes the last pour deeper in, so you really want it mixed evenly for each pour.

This is a good learning experience. By reading up on K I learned that a K def will cause the plant to replace K with calcium internally, as they are both strong cations, but with K playing a major role in water uptake, water uptake is curbed, causing calcium replacement to not occur properly, thus a K def will lead to a faux calcium def too, even if calcium is abundant in the soil.

So thank you for that Carmen, it's good knowledge to have. If you suspect a K def and see signs of an over watered plant that isn't overwatered, and a cal def is starting, it is assurance that it's a K def

You can probably lose the heating pad now too.

 

[Gee64]

Yesterdays high, and this idiot was out in it building a deck. Thats why you shouldn't do drugs, bad decisions

 

[Gee64]

It turns out that smoking motivating sativas is a gateway drug to cold beers