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Here's my contribution. You guys remember Figgy from the aero-cloner? Heres's Figgy now living outside loving it.
Figgy! Figgy is looking like a high brix plant!
The replacement driver on Fedex says delivery tomorrow about noon now😪
Oof.
 
Some people told me that their plants are sometimes showing signs of hermie after the flip, but I have personally never faced that
Hey Snooping✌️ Welcome. I find hermies are quite rare but I have had plants pop nanners. Close to the end they are quite common. If you see white hairs popping just a few days beforecharvest there are probably some nanners popping too.
 
I was going to say the same. And the dude claims to not have the patience to teach. Lol. Thanks @Keffka.

😂

I have no endurance for it. I’ll give you everything I’ve got at once, and if you don’t ask questions in that moment, I’m already off to the next thing.

Most of the people that come seeking information here don’t necessarily need to be taught. You folks are the kind of people who are already going out in search of information and knowledge to teach yourselves. I more just provide it, than actually teach it. That makes it a million times easier, because you already possess the skills to take what you need from what I say.
 
Some people told me that their plants are sometimes showing signs of hermie after the flip, but I have personally never faced that

I have done a lot, and I mean A LOT of stress testing on plants to drive them into hermies and I’ve come to one conclusion. It’s all in the genes.

If your plant is a true hermaphrodite, meaning has both male and female reproductive traits, that is genetic. It is in its DNA to be a hermie. Why wouldn’t it be? That’s an insanely useful evolutionary trait. Being able to reproduce on your own gives you a significant leg up over the rest.

If during flower your plant “herms” and begins to spit out stamens, or nanners due to stress, then it’s in the genetics. Somewhere along the way, that plant was exposed to the ability to self reproduce. Maybe in the wild, maybe in the breeding room. Regardless of when or where or how, it’s in the genetics and it knows it’s a process it can use.

A strong, well bred strain, usually will not do this, especially from stress. I say usually because there are a number of strains, typically sativas, that have this trait buried so deep in their history it can’t be bred out no matter how stable the line is. A strong, well bred strain, when experiencing stress will take hits to production, quality, yield, etc. but it won’t spit out stamens or self pollinate.

If you have one of these strains that spits stamens, it’s not the end of the world. As long as the plant is still blooming and building buds you’re good to just pick them. However, if you see them starting to come from everywhere and it seems like the plant has stopped producing, it’s time to yank the plant out and be done with that line.
 
Ok, moving onto dolo water. Why not just dissolve a tums in water for an emergency boost? I’m assuming you’re trying to boost available Ca, am I wrong?
 
Ok, moving onto dolo water. Why not just dissolve a tums in water for an emergency boost? I’m assuming you’re trying to boost available Ca, am I wrong?
I am using it for the Calcium boost, but dolomite also contains magnesium so I use that instead, but any calcium source will work fine. I have 50lb bags of prilled dolomite so it's handy.
 
Ok, moving onto dolo water. Why not just dissolve a tums in water for an emergency boost? I’m assuming you’re trying to boost available Ca, am I wrong?


If you’re growing in smaller containers, you can get a lot more bang for the size if you take some of the calcium and magnesium out of the soil mix and put it in the water. This lets you get more P, K, micro, and trace elements into the pot for better production.

Moving it to the water also means you need to be consistent with the ppms (65ish depending on container size) and the ratio in it. In a situation like that, you would want to use measured amounts of specific ratios, so you’re not coming unbalanced halfway through the grow.

Smaller containers make us do backflips to achieve the same results we would get in larger containers. It becomes more dicey as well when trying to make sure 3 gallons of soil are as balanced as the 50 we just mixed.
 
If you’re growing in smaller containers, you can get a lot more bang for the size if you take some of the calcium and magnesium out of the soil mix and put it in the water. This lets you get more P, K, micro, and trace elements into the pot for better production.

Moving it to the water also means you need to be consistent with the ppms (65ish depending on container size) and the ratio in it. In a situation like that, you would want to use measured amounts of specific ratios, so you’re not coming unbalanced halfway through the grow.

Smaller containers make us do backflips to achieve the same results we would get in larger containers. It becomes more dicey as well when trying to make sure 3 gallons of soil are as balanced as the 50 we just mixed.
The majority of what I grow that’s not in the ground is in 10g fabric pots typically filled to within 2in of the top, not this year because as I’ve mentioned I’ve expanded and had to ration things until next batch is ready in about 4 more weeks. A smaller portion are grown in 20 and 30g fabric pots - think my staples of blue dream and kosher kush that spend 16 weeks or more in veg tents before they are brought outdoors. I can attest that the bigger the pot the better and easier the grow is for sure. That being said, I’ve never had trees the size you see in some of the huge outdoor grows you will find online, near your CA or CO buddies property etc, but I have had plenty of 8-10 footers out of the ground or big pots over the years.
 
If you’re growing in smaller containers, you can get a lot more bang for the size if you take some of the calcium and magnesium out of the soil mix and put it in the water. This lets you get more P, K, micro, and trace elements into the pot for better production.

Moving it to the water also means you need to be consistent with the ppms (65ish depending on container size) and the ratio in it. In a situation like that, you would want to use measured amounts of specific ratios, so you’re not coming unbalanced halfway through the grow.

Smaller containers make us do backflips to achieve the same results we would get in larger containers. It becomes more dicey as well when trying to make sure 3 gallons of soil are as balanced as the 50 we just mixed.
Are you suggesting mixing less calcium into the soil and supplementing when watering, to help make it more instantly available? I'm not sure I'm understanding this correctly.
 
These two were stressing hard outside. The temp is about 100F and the small black pots got really warm
Try wrapping a white towel around the pots and hung from the top rim with binder clips or something. The slight taper to the pots creates an insulative air gap between the pot and the towel and the white color can help radiate the heat away keeping the pots much cooler.
 
Try wrapping a white towel around the pots and hung from the top rim with binder clips or something. The slight taper to the pots creates an insulative air gap between the pot and the towel and the white color can help radiate the heat away keeping the pots much cooler.
I hear you. I brought them back into the veg tent. They are going to live back inside again.
 
Try wrapping a white towel around the pots and hung from the top rim with binder clips or something. The slight taper to the pots creates an insulative air gap between the pot and the towel and the white color can help radiate the heat away keeping the pots much cooler.
My favorite takeaway here is not only are you a Dr. you are also McGyver lol
 
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