The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It

[Gee64]

Day 3 for The Programmers in Gaia2.0 mix.

The runt.

Side view. Starting to pray.

The best one.

The middle one

They grew a lot overnight. I raised the light. Their rootballs need to grow a bit before they grow tons of foliage.

It's changing quickly. They are recovering really fast all of a sudden.

Lets see how tomorrow goes.

 

[Gee64]

Nothing crazy. I bought a system that goes into a 5 gallon paint bucket. It was my first time growing and I wanted it to be easy with off the shelf stuff. I believe it's on the SIP's club 1st page. The soil was Fox Farms Happy Frog mixed with some Ocean Forest. About as easy as it gets, add in the Geoflora and I was off and running. I did have a 3 gallon cloth pot that I grew with too but those plants were always smaller, understandable since it had less room for roots. During veg, I filled the reservoir as soon as it got low, early on, that could be a week but as the plant got bigger, it was every 2 or 3 days. Never really had issues, guess I was lucky. This is my 3rd year growing now and it still works.

I have never tried Geoflora but it seems to work really well.

How much does it take to fill the reservoir?

It would be cool to see the brix on them next time you use it, and a waterstik reading too.

The design/ratios could really have an effect on how good they work. Yours may have a perfect res to footer-wick to pot to size/height ratio that nails it for moisture content.

 

[Azimuth]

It's most likely calcium homogenizing and relaxing magnesium to release built up soil nitrogen.

A root drench almost always causes nitrogen toxicity. It doesn't last long. It releases quickly.

Pretty much every grow I do needs a root soaking at least once so pretty much every grow has some clawed leaves.

The toxicity usually only hits one set of leaves and they stay clawed forever right across the whole plant at that level.

I do a drench at about 3 weeks old, another at 5-6 weeks and a last one at flip for stretch to burn off so when buds start there isn't any excess nitrogen locked in the soil like a bomb.

These small pots are getting dolomite water every few days so that excess isn't building but the 1st dolomite water clawed some leaves.

Ok. I'll plan on giving it low ppm water this week instead of FAA or my concoctions and see if it can eat thru some of that excess.

 

[Gee64]

My flowering plant looks pretty good save the thrip and mite damage, but seems to be a pretty deep shade of green which I associate with high N. I don't see much clawing though there are some leaves with it.

Can this be attributed to the flush a few weeks back and now the system is coming to life? Normally that would happen in veg where the extra N is needed but I assume this will compromise my harvest a bit.

What I'm hoping is that this is a very short term issue caused by the soil all of a sudden being freed up to process properly and it's burning off the newly freed up nutes, especially N and that after this initial thrust the plant will settle into a healthier state.

Brix is 11 with a moderately fuzzy line.

As you apply the dolomite water Azi you will get nitrogen releasing until all the magnesium currently in your soil is relaxed.

Every application will release more until calcium becomes balanced and your line goes fuzzy. At that point if you work a steady feed of dolo water in it will maintain your cal and mag and the nitro rushes will stop.

Start watching your soil surface very closely when it's dry right before waterings, and keep doing multi-probes with the water stik for dry spots. Dry spots are where it will occur under tthe surface and crusty surfaces are also an indicator.

Once calcium is adequate and homogenous and in balance with magnesium it will stop.

It could mess up the ones currently in flower as in you may get some more stretching when you should get stacking, and when your stigmas are almost all brown you may see new white ones start right before harvest. Brix may also drop temporarily until the soil dries back down.

Once the excess nitro is gone your brix will steadily climb and when the surface is dry it will become a rich black soil that is very similar to EWC but with perlite in it. Fluffy and dark and has that beautiful earthy smell.

The plants still in veg will work this out before flip and it won't be an issue.

 

[Gee64]

So back to watering/soil moisture for a minute. Try this, it's an eye opener.

Next watering your soil will likely read a full 10 on the water stik but by the next morning should be down to an 8 or even into the top of the green zone.

If possible when it's at an 8, scrape up a handful of soil and give it the squeeze test.

You will find that no drips come out but the water stik still says it's too wet or just falling into optimal.

Let your brain absorb this, don't resist it, It's part of the programming to establish your new normal.

You need to see how dry the soil actually is to your thinking, but still a tad too wet for the plant's liking.

This is carbon at work. The soil is retaining the water so it won't drip, but it's still showing a bit wet.

You need to get used to the new normal.

Then moving forward you can assess a sip design simply by filling it with soil and adding water, and knowing immediately if it's too wet instead of fighting it for 14 weeks.

It will also help you in your mix building. When carbon content is just right for your mix you will recognize it.

Carmen you should try this too. You got your cooking water content right with the drip test, and cooking requires more moisture as a huge amount of nitrogen is being assimilated, and this will help you with your swicking for water content once that cooked soil is growing.

What the plant considers still a bit too wet is suprisingly dry to us.

Everyone reading this, even if you are experienced, should try it. Knowing this will save you tons of time moving forward when you try new mixes or pot styles.

 

[Jon]

Thats exactly what I'm doing.

Sips are hard pots that allow air in both top and bottom, as opposed to a conventional hard pot that only lets air in up top. Thats a huge plus.

Cloth pots

Ouch, I don't want to answer that one, the sippers will not like it, and sipping is just another way to allow even more people to increase the fun of growing.

That answer will evolve all on it's own but the things people learn along the way are unbelievably valuable.

Azi is in the middle of it now.

And some simply can't grow in cloth due to grow space limitations.

Ah. Okay thanks. I promise I wasn’t trying to be controversial, it was a sincere question and certainly not intended to put anyone off. Sorry SIP guys! Lol. I’m not ragging on SIP anyway, I don’t even know enough about them to rag if I wanted to, heh. Thus I ask questions. I’ll ask Azi and at least get the “pro” response first, save the “cons” for later. Lol. But really, for all I know it’s the greatest thing ever.

 

[Jon]

Day 3 for The Programmers in Gaia2.0 mix.

The runt.

Side view. Starting to pray.

The best one.

The middle one

They grew a lot overnight. I raised the light. Their rootballs need to grow a bit before they grow tons of foliage.

It's changing quickly. They are recovering really fast all of a sudden.

Lets see how tomorrow goes.

What interesting looking plants. Haven’t seen leaves like that on a strain this early before. Cool.

 

[Jon]

So back to watering/soil moisture for a minute. Try this, it's an eye opener.

Next watering your soil will likely read a full 10 on the water stik but by the next morning should be down to an 8 or even into the top of the green zone.

If possible when it's at an 8, scrape up a handful of soil and give it the squeeze test.

You will find that no drips come out but the water stik still says it's too wet or just falling into optimal.

Let your brain absorb this, don't resist it, It's part of the programming to establish your new normal.

You need to see how dry the soil actually is to your thinking, but still a tad too wet for the plant's liking.

This is carbon at work. The soil is retaining the water so it won't drip, but it's still showing a bit wet.

You need to get used to the new normal.

Then moving forward you can assess a sip design simply by filling it with soil and adding water, and knowing immediately if it's too wet instead of fighting it for 14 weeks.

It will also help you in your mix building. When carbon content is just right for your mix you will recognize it.

Carmen you should try this too. You got your cooking water content right with the drip test, and cooking requires more moisture as a huge amount of nitrogen is being assimilated, and this will help you with your swicking for water content once that cooked soil is growing.

What the plant considers still a bit too wet is suprisingly dry to us.

Everyone reading this, even if you are experienced, should try it. Knowing this will save you tons of time moving forward when you try new mixes or pot styles.

Is there a way I can use my moisture reader thing (head and stick cheapie but it works well) to determine this? It goes wet - moist - dry. The most is green on the meter and as long as it’s in there I don’t water or I just do a minor top watering, to the end of balancing the amount of water top to bottom in the pot. No idea if that’s right or good but I’m also cloth pots and it seems to work okay.

 

[Gee64]

Is there a way I can use my moisture reader thing (head and stick cheapie but it works well) to determine this? It goes wet - moist - dry. The most is green on the meter and as long as it’s in there I don’t water or I just do a minor top watering, to the end of balancing the amount of water top to bottom in the pot. No idea if that’s right or good but I’m also cloth pots and it seems to work okay.

In the green is where you want to be. The dry side of green is more oxygen in the soil, the wet side of green is less oxygen in the soil.

So now when you read seed descriptions and they say drought resistent, it means they thrive on more oxygen, so likely a heavy feeder, or easy to grow, they don't care, any oxygen is good oxygen and they just eat lots or not, or damper conditions, meaning they require less oxygen, so likely a light feeder.

That meter will help you match those descriptions to your soil.

It also allows someone like you who really studies your plants to dial in sweet spots.

Every strain has a sweet zone, every pheno a sweet spot.

The Water Stik (brand name of the 1st one I ever bought 30 years ago for $20 which is equal to about $100 of today dollars lol) also allows you to check for dry spots and with cloth pots you can even poke it in right thru the cloth to check low areas if your pots are too tall.

 

[Jon]

In the green is where you want to be. The dry side of green is more oxygen in the soil, the wet side of green is less oxygen in the soil.

So now when you read seed descriptions and they say drought resistent, it means they thrive on more oxygen, so likely a heavy feeder, or easy to grow, they don't care, any oxygen is good oxygen and they just eat lots or not, or damper conditions, meaning they require less oxygen, so likely a light feeder.

That meter will help you match those descriptions to your soil.

It also allows someone like you who really studies your plants to dial in sweet spots.

Every strain has a sweet zone, every pheno a sweet spot.

The Water Stik (brand name of the 1st one I ever bought 30 years ago for $20 which is equal to about $100 of today dollars lol) also allows you to check for dry spots and with cloth pots you can even poke it in right thru the cloth to check low areas if your pots are too tall.

Thanks! I just by chance learned the poke through the pot trick. I was finding myself wanting to read the very bottom of the pot and the stick won’t reach, lol. So I figured why not? And yes, it’s easy. Might make the pots one-timers after a while, but they’re super cheap so whatever. Lol.

 

[Gee64]

Thanks! I just by chance learned the poke through the pot trick. I was finding myself wanting to read the very bottom of the pot and the stick won’t reach, lol. So I figured why not? And yes, it’s easy. Might make the pots one-timers after a while, but they’re super cheap so whatever. Lol.

I have some I still use that are swiss cheese

 

[Lerugged]

How is the Iklwa drying up? Did it give you some decent buds at least? Have you tried it? Also hello.

 

[Gee64]

How is the Iklwa drying up? Did it give you some decent buds at least? Have you tried it? Also hello.

It did give me some decent buds. The 6 mains are finished hanging and are sweating in a tub now slowly working their way down to 62% RH. They are at about 78% right now.

All the larf is now hanging. There is a lot there so that will be my hashish stuff. It needs a couple more days before it starts the tubbing/sweating process.

I did try it . The lemony pine terps held thru a quick dry for a tester. It tastes really nice for a flash dry and the buzz is just what I'd hoped for. All in the head. Very upbeat and focused.

I can't wait to try it all cured.

RVDV is down to 62% and will get jarred up today. I tried her yesterday and she has a nice spicy earthy taste. Very mild and easy on the lungs. She isn't quite as zippy as Ikky but a really happy buzz. They are both excellent!

And hello

 

[Gee64]

Table Mountain Sativa Company's
RVDV - Mutant Oh the Bounty.

Here are Mutey's 2 mains. It was hard to work them gently into the 1 quart jar.

They are only quick trimmed and uncured. Just down to 65%RH today in the sweat tub. They will likely climb to about 68-70 in 48 hours, maybe a bit higher.

I'll manicure them after they are cured up for some more pictures. These things are caveman clubs.

The wide flat mutant stalks are bizarre.

They were 20" but below here you could start to see the stalks so this is the apex prime colas. Hash and the worms get the lowers.

 

[Azimuth]

Here are Mutey's 2 mains. It was hard to work them gently into the 1 quart jar.

 

[Gee64]

Here they are again with Iklwa's mutant arm on the left. Ikky was smaller from packing all the larf but experience tells me a manifold with full delarfing would have nugged Ikky up a lot.

3 of Clubs

Here are 3 of Ikky's other 4 non mutant mains. Again, no larf would have chunked these up. There is more weight in larf than in mains so delarfing would have doubled the density of the colas.

Ikky's 4th main was about as tall as the shortest in these 3. It was buried under the larf in the sweat tub. Ikky is holding at 64%RH but will likely sweat up another point or 2 in the next 48 hours.

I'll cherry pick the prime apexes cut to 1 quart jar height, 6". I can't wait to grow 4 plants manifolded to 8 colas each in Rev's mix.

 

[Gee64]

More shots of Mutey.

Both sides of each.

The stalks were round and normal down bottom.

 

[Gee64]

Day 4.

 

[Gidorah]

Day 4.

Wow, they really perked up!

 

[Lerugged]

Nice one. Those are some long colas. or clubs even.