about 30 days old
The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It
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Gee64
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Perfect! Thats pretty much spot on for where they are at
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Gee64
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Sorry man, I'm still in painting hell for another day or 2, then I will catch up on all the grows I follow.
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Gee64
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Gorgeous Man! I just accidentally replied to your gallery
. They look smokin' Happy
. They look smokin' Happy- Thread starter
- #2,646
Gee64
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lol it won't let me edit it
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Gee64
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Damn paint fumes
All good no problems and thanks for the kind words
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Gee64
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Did she just flip me the bird?
I'd love to, but you are a bit far for these fatigued bones.Thanks MGM. Wanna come photoshoot it for me?
I like your photo. I could offer some tips instead if you don't mind.
MGM
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Gee64
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Absolutely, I would love that. I just point and shoot, you get what you get, so if you got tips, I'm all earsI'd love to, but you are a bit far for these fatigued bones.
I like your photo. I could offer some tips instead if you don't mind.
MGM
. I don't know a lot about photography, so treat me like a newb please.
Just to help me a bit. Can you describe your camera and any software you might use?Absolutely, I would love that. I just point and shoot, you get what you get, so if you got tips, I'm all ears
Without knowing that, I can still offer a bit of advice.
What I really like about is this big, panoramic view of your magnificent buds. I want to get in there and just inhale them. I bets others do, too. So take them there.
Get closer so you can eliminate a lot of the background distractions and concentrate on the bud and capture more detail, you know, like trichomes. Here is an example using your photo that I cropped. But you don't wan't to do that. You want to get closer for more detail, right? (I also modified contrast and shadow controls in post-production software, plus added a bit of sharpening and vignette). If you want to know more about post-production software or settings, just ask me.
And when you get closer to the bud, maybe focus in on one near the middle so we can just get a hint of your trichome crystals.
You've done a pretty good job of not overexposing the trichomes, which is tricky, real tricky. You want to see the crystal structure sparkle without overexposing them and turning them into "white worms."
I had to bring shadows up in your photo in my own cheap software. This is why you can see more of the lower colas. To improve your shot before using software use some kind of reflective card at the entrance of your tent to bounce the light from your overhead lights back into the understory of the plant.
To make a bounce card you could buy white foam core from a local hobby or craft shop, or make one by glueing the shiny side of a few sheets of aluminum foil to a large piece of cardboard, say 50cmx100cm. Play with the angle of the bounce card until you get the angle just right.
I did mention software. New PhOM rules allow a bit of post-processing. Check them out. Some of that processing may be in your camera or is available for cheap on line.
MGM
Gidorah
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Yet another bookmark from the Gee-manSorry Absorber, Sorry Mate, I just noticed this post now. I was waiting for someone to say it. You guys are all too polite
You get a full explanation to what was occurring before you get the answer
It's a good story, and if you grow organically, heres what is/was going on.
Grab a coffee, this is a post you guys will like and probably apply moving forward, if you grow in LOS. This is a LOS thing.
There was a bit of a deficiency chasing me a few weeks back. I couldn't quite tell what it was but with the LED glasses on, you could see a funk in the leaves, which means in 10 days I will see it without the glasses on, and thats pretty normal for soil on it's first build, as phosphorus and potassium aren't readily available until the rock dusts and greensand starts to break down, so the easiest way out of it with soil, is to soak the rootballs to full saturation.
And most growers use new soil every time, so every run is "1st use" soil.
The root soak is almost like a reset. It homogenizes the calcium in the soil, which fixes magnesium, opens up oxygen (nitrogen), and all processes take off again, but it also ignites the spikes. You get a rush of nitrogen as the soil unlocks, and all the nitrogen that mag had locked up, because calccium was out, gets instantly released, which may curl a leaf tip here and there, and leaf tip burn for sure from all the other nutes in the spikes all kicking in at once.
Normally it's not this bad, but I think the 25% extra calcium I added this grow really
accelerated the effects of the root drench.
It cooked a lot of leaf tips, all to a different degree on each plant.
The tall pheno, the one with the weird cola tops that look like club-heads, is a light feeder, so it got tip burn the worst. Some fans got almost half-ways fried.
The 2 short pheno's which are the 2 with the nuggiest looking buds, got it mid-level burnt, and the one leafier budded pheno, which is the one that probably has the buzz I am looking for, but the least spectacular buds, is so tough it never got a scratch. Go figure.
The root drench fix is pretty much always needed on 1st run soil, and I knew it would cook some leaf tips, but its the best way out, and it worked perfectly. I have had no issues whatsoever since the drench, and all I have done since is topdress, use fish water, and about a week ago they were slowing down a bit too soon so I added one non-feed microbe tea just to boost microlife.
So to summarize, all I did as far as remedies go for this grow, was 1 root drench in RO water, and 1 microbe tea.
So to answer your question, the pots were locking themselves out and a root drench fixed it. It's because calcium needed to be tweaked and water will move calcium around in the pot. The lockout can show as just about any deficiency, so if you see a potassium deficiency in there, it's totally possible. It's a scar now from a few weeks back.
If it didn't work, and a specific deficiency started to show, now that the root drench has reset the pots, the specific fix, had I of needed one, would have worked way more effectively.
If calcium is out, then oxygen is restricted.
If oxygen is restricted and you don't fix it, you will chase deficiency for the rest of the grow in every direction.
Every nute MUST be assimilated with at least 1 oxygen molecule in order for myco/plant to recognize it as food. Hence the term aerobic. I deal with aerobic microbes in my pots, they need oxygen to be aerobic.
I know that sounds obviously, almost condescendingly, stupidly, beginner level obvious, but I have found that saying it out loud once in awhile solidifies the process for beginners. No oxygen no food. Limited oxygen, limited food. Full oxygen, fat colas.
The root drench hurts leaves, it's unavoidable, so if you have defoliated, you may be in trouble, but if you still have every leaf, the plant doesn't miss a beat.
Photosynthesis doesn't slow, it just gets spread to the other leaves. The leaf tip burn never slowed them down at all
It's just ugly like these ones, in every picture for the rest of their lives, but it's a great example of how protecting and using leaves protects the flowers for you.
It's also a great example of how important and powerful calcium is.
Fix calcium 1st. It might make the other problems go away.
The buds never suffered at all. These are ugly plants, but they have some of the better Durban buds that I have grown.
Now senescence is kicking in, so if we watch the leaves change you will see the signs of all deficiency roll through them.
It's because they aren't really eating the soil anymore, they are using up the leaves to ripen, and they store specific nutes in specific leaves, collecting those nutes over their lifetime to use now, to ripen properly as per their DNA, so if you defoliated, you may not (probably won't, I was being polite) ripen properly, and you will miss out on what the strain was advertised as. And potency too.
If you didn't defoliate, you will see different deficiencies briefly appear in the leaves as they finish and before they get canabalized, and you can watch and see what leaves contained what minerals as the plant uses them up. Thats what is starting right now.
If these had a purple gene it would be easier to see. You have likely seen lots of leaves striped like a mag def, but purple and finishing. Those were leaves that had mag in them.
Lots of people might argue defoliation is better, as they choose yield over quality, and defoliating will get you a lot more lower bud, but I detest larf.
So instead of removing leaves to light up the larf zone, I leave the leaves and remove the larf zone instead. It makes the main tops a lot bigger, and avoids deficiency as you aren't using nutes on larf.
If I go down the main colas about 15", give or take per plant, and snip the tops off, I have every bud on the cola in that snipped off top. The smallest nugs will be about ping-pong ball sized and hard. Worthy of trimming.
Then the worms get the rest of the plant.
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Gee64
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I have a Samsung S20 phone and I take it from its default "photo" mode and put it in pro mode but only to be able to adjust white balance. It's the only thing I figured out, as without setting it to about 3100k, everything looks yellow. At 3100k, it's as close to real as I can get it. Flash makes it better too, but tben the trichs glare.
I also have an 10mp Canon Eos Rebel DSLR that i can use, but I have to get the pic's from the camera to the phone, so an SD card swap, in order to be able to edit them on my phone. I only use the Samsung Gallery app to edit.
I have a laptop buts it's old. It may run editing software though, if you have any cheap or freeware suggestions.
Doh! I keep backing up, trying to squeeze the whole tent in.
And when you get closer to the bud, maybe focus in on one near the middle so we can just get a hint of your trichome crystals.
Camera setting to help here?
I can't do that right now, it's pretty crowded in the room I'm in, I'm about to try building wine barrel adirondacks, and I have deconstructed oak barrels and whatnot everywhere, but I see where your going with it. I'll see what I can come up with.
Awesome stuff MGMI did mention software. New PhOM rules allow a bit of post-processing. Check them out. Some of that processing may be in your camera or is available for cheap on line.
MGM
. Thank You. I will take a few photo's with the Canon too, so you can evaluate that.Are you familiar with DSLR's?. Stupid question I guess lol. Newb remember.
I just use the idiot modes on it, but the quality is far superior to my phone. It's a league up for sure. But how to use the settings........ well?????........
Too bad your not in Canada. It is legal for me to mail you a bud as a thank you gift if it's under 30 grams and stays in Canada.
Then you could take pic's of it and say, "No Dummy, like this!"
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- #2,655
Gee64
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Here are a whole bunch of Canon shots. It's in whatever settings that the camera uses. I took a few from both sides and changed the focal point around in the canopy.
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Gee64
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Gee64
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Gee64
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Gidorah, how is that prune-out on the AG doing? Was it a good thing?
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Gee64
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Sorry MGM, apparently my Canon is an 18mp, not a 10mp DSLR.
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Gee64
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And all those pic's are yellower than in reall life. I can't figure out how to adjust white balance so it's on auto.
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