Beautiful colas Gee!
The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It
- Thread starter Gee64
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Gee64
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Thanks Stone
. Hopefully MGM can straighten out my pictures a bit better.
I'll have to download the manual to the camera i guess. A guy should probably read the instruction booklet once in awhile
.
. Hopefully MGM can straighten out my pictures a bit better. I'll have to download the manual to the camera i guess. A guy should probably read the instruction booklet once in awhile
.Thankyou for the explanation, much appreciatedSorry Absorber, Sorry Mate, I just noticed this post now. I was waiting for someone to say it. You guys are all too polite
You get a full explanation to what was occurring before you get the answer
It's a good story, and if you grow organically, heres what is/was going on.
Grab a coffee, this is a post you guys will like and probably apply moving forward, if you grow in LOS. This is a LOS thing.
There was a bit of a deficiency chasing me a few weeks back. I couldn't quite tell what it was but with the LED glasses on, you could see a funk in the leaves, which means in 10 days I will see it without the glasses on, and thats pretty normal for soil on it's first build, as phosphorus and potassium aren't readily available until the rock dusts and greensand starts to break down, so the easiest way out of it with soil, is to soak the rootballs to full saturation.
And most growers use new soil every time, so every run is "1st use" soil.
The root soak is almost like a reset. It homogenizes the calcium in the soil, which fixes magnesium, opens up oxygen (nitrogen), and all processes take off again, but it also ignites the spikes. You get a rush of nitrogen as the soil unlocks, and all the nitrogen that mag had locked up, because calccium was out, gets instantly released, which may curl a leaf tip here and there, and leaf tip burn for sure from all the other nutes in the spikes all kicking in at once.
Normally it's not this bad, but I think the 25% extra calcium I added this grow really
accelerated the effects of the root drench.
It cooked a lot of leaf tips, all to a different degree on each plant.
The tall pheno, the one with the weird cola tops that look like club-heads, is a light feeder, so it got tip burn the worst. Some fans got almost half-ways fried.
The 2 short pheno's which are the 2 with the nuggiest looking buds, got it mid-level burnt, and the one leafier budded pheno, which is the one that probably has the buzz I am looking for, but the least spectacular buds, is so tough it never got a scratch. Go figure.
The root drench fix is pretty much always needed on 1st run soil, and I knew it would cook some leaf tips, but its the best way out, and it worked perfectly. I have had no issues whatsoever since the drench, and all I have done since is topdress, use fish water, and about a week ago they were slowing down a bit too soon so I added one non-feed microbe tea just to boost microlife.
So to summarize, all I did as far as remedies go for this grow, was 1 root drench in RO water, and 1 microbe tea.
So to answer your question, the pots were locking themselves out and a root drench fixed it. It's because calcium needed to be tweaked and water will move calcium around in the pot. The lockout can show as just about any deficiency, so if you see a potassium deficiency in there, it's totally possible. It's a scar now from a few weeks back.
If it didn't work, and a specific deficiency started to show, now that the root drench has reset the pots, the specific fix, had I of needed one, would have worked way more effectively.
If calcium is out, then oxygen is restricted.
If oxygen is restricted and you don't fix it, you will chase deficiency for the rest of the grow in every direction.
Every nute MUST be assimilated with at least 1 oxygen molecule in order for myco/plant to recognize it as food. Hence the term aerobic. I deal with aerobic microbes in my pots, they need oxygen to be aerobic.
I know that sounds obviously, almost condescendingly, stupidly, beginner level obvious, but I have found that saying it out loud once in awhile solidifies the process for beginners. No oxygen no food. Limited oxygen, limited food. Full oxygen, fat colas.
The root drench hurts leaves, it's unavoidable, so if you have defoliated, you may be in trouble, but if you still have every leaf, the plant doesn't miss a beat.
Photosynthesis doesn't slow, it just gets spread to the other leaves. The leaf tip burn never slowed them down at all
It's just ugly like these ones, in every picture for the rest of their lives, but it's a great example of how protecting and using leaves protects the flowers for you.
It's also a great example of how important and powerful calcium is.
Fix calcium 1st. It might make the other problems go away.
The buds never suffered at all. These are ugly plants, but they have some of the better Durban buds that I have grown.
Now senescence is kicking in, so if we watch the leaves change you will see the signs of all deficiency roll through them.
It's because they aren't really eating the soil anymore, they are using up the leaves to ripen, and they store specific nutes in specific leaves, collecting those nutes over their lifetime to use now, to ripen properly as per their DNA, so if you defoliated, you may not (probably won't, I was being polite) ripen properly, and you will miss out on what the strain was advertised as. And potency too.
If you didn't defoliate, you will see different deficiencies briefly appear in the leaves as they finish and before they get canabalized, and you can watch and see what leaves contained what minerals as the plant uses them up. Thats what is starting right now.
If these had a purple gene it would be easier to see. You have likely seen lots of leaves striped like a mag def, but purple and finishing. Those were leaves that had mag in them.
Lots of people might argue defoliation is better, as they choose yield over quality, and defoliating will get you a lot more lower bud, but I detest larf.
So instead of removing leaves to light up the larf zone, I leave the leaves and remove the larf zone instead. It makes the main tops a lot bigger, and avoids deficiency as you aren't using nutes on larf.
If I go down the main colas about 15", give or take per plant, and snip the tops off, I have every bud on the cola in that snipped off top. The smallest nugs will be about ping-pong ball sized and hard. Worthy of trimming.
Then the worms get the rest of the plant.
White balance is a good thing to know. More later.
Word is among flash users @Lady Cannafan and @Roy Growin is to use some kind of diffuser over your flash. Something as simple as taping a piece of paper over the flash might work, or the simple frost on Scotch tape may work -- just tape over your flash and see what happens.
I see from a later post that you have an 18mp EOS Rebel. Plenty enough camera for web photography. My current PhOM winner was shot with a 14-year old, 12mp Nikon D90. I have a other cameras.
I'm not familiar with Canon, but I may be able to help.
The things we do for love.
If you can adjust contrast, exposure, highlights, shadows and sharpening on the phone, then you'll have a lot of tools there.
I use the Apple MacIntosh computers. Is that what you use?
LOL!
How about going into the scary valley of shooting with the Manual Setting?
Camera setting to help here?
As long as you are thinking about reading the manual, this might good place to start. Learn how to set Aperture, Shutter Speed, ISO and White Balance (WB)
Light values should not vary from tent to tent, after all, we're trying to simulate sunlight, but usually we never get there. In full sunshine the "Sunny Sixteen" rule applies, which is on a sunny day set aperture at f16 and shutter speed at the inverse of the ISO setting. Meaning at ISO 100, shutter speed should be 1/100 when the aperture is set at f16. Since our tents aren't fully daylight I find these settings useful:
ISO 100, Shutter @ 1/100 and Aperture at f8. And White Balance? As low as you can go, apparently.
That should get you into the ballpark. Play with it. What happens when you increase shutter? How about aperture? Increase exposure -- where do the trichomes blow out. Decrease exposure -- how much drama do you introduce in the shadows? Try keeping your ISO as low as possible, because you'll get the full performance out of your sensor. The higher your ISO the noisier the photo, and the less dynamic range you have.
The other setting you want to find is the one that gives you single-point focus. Using that, you pick the bud you want to focus on, not the camera. Learn to move that focus point around. Pick your bud.
You are kind, Ghee.Awesome stuff MGM
Too bad your not in Canada. It is legal for me to mail you a bud as a thank you gift if it's under 30 grams and stays in Canada.
Then you could take pic's of it and say, "No Dummy, like this!"
This bud's for you!
I turned the lights down a bit, used my 20mm f1.8 prime lens set at f2.5, ISO 100, 1/100 second and got in close and cropped the shot.
View media item 2642782
MGM
Don't recall if the EOS has custom white balance, but setting it to tungsten will remove the orange tint @Gee64White balance is a good thing to know. More later.
Word is among flash users @Lady Cannafan and @Roy Growin is to use some kind of diffuser over your flash. Something as simple as taping a piece of paper over the flash might work, or the simple frost on Scotch tape may work -- just tape over your flash and see what happens.
I see from a later post that you have an 18mp EOS Rebel. Plenty enough camera for web photography. My current PhOM winner was shot with a 14-year old, 12mp Nikon D90. I have a other cameras.
I'm not familiar with Canon, but I may be able to help.
The things we do for love.
If you can adjust contrast, exposure, highlights, shadows and sharpening on the phone, then you'll have a lot of tools there.
I use the Apple MacIntosh computers. Is that what you use.
LOL!
How about going into the scary valley of shooting with the Manual Setting?
As long as you are thinking about reading the manual, this might good place to start. Learn how to set Aperture, Shutter Speed, ISO and White Balance (WB)
Light values should not vary from tent to tent, after all, we're trying to simulate sunlight, but usually we never get there. In full sunshine the "Sunny Sixteen" rule applies, which is on a sunny day set aperture at f16 and shutter speed at the inverse of the ISO setting. Meaning at ISO 100, shutter speed should be 1/100 when the aperture is set at f16. Since our tents aren't fully daylight I find these settings useful:
ISO 100, Shutter @ 1/100 and Aperture at f8. And White Balance? As low as you can go, apparently.
That should get you into the ballpark. Play with it. What happens when you increase shutter? How about aperture? Increase exposure -- where do the trichomes blow out. Decrease exposure -- how much drama do you introduce in the shadows? Try keeping your ISO as low as possible, because you'll get the full performance out of your sensor. The higher your ISO the noisier the photo, and the less dynamic range you have.
The other setting you want to find is the one that gives you single-point focus. Using that, you pick the bud you want to focus on, not the camera. Learn to move that focus point around. Pick your bud.
You are kind, Ghee.
This bud's for you!
I turned the lights down a bit, used my 20mm f1.8 prime lens set at f2.5, ISO 100, 1/100 second and got in close and cropped the shot.
View media item 2642782
MGM
Think it does have a bracketing function tho, so you can take release the shutter once and the camera wil take your exposure plus a +/- exposure bracket either side
The problem is often that the lighting is overhead, the background in a tent is reflective and bright so it's hard to balance
The order I usually follow is
Step 1 - don't smoke a fattie of NL
lolFrame the picture - if using a zoom lens don't touch it after it's set
Decide on depth of field and set the aperture accordingly f5.6 - f8 55mm works ok for me [remember the focal range is an arc of distance, so the taking a shot from an 'above', angle will give you an very narrow band of focus; if you shoot from a more parallel angle, more of the pic will be in the focal plane - also, more depth of field is behind the focal point that in front of it, so focus just in front of what you want to capture]
Set the ISO to 400 so you have leeway either way
Set shutter speed to 1/125 - 1/250 if hand-held
Check the meter and adjust ISO up or down
That's the easy bit
Then set to manual, pop the flash up and set it to -1 stop
Because the flash is now providing frontal lighting, reduce aperture, exposure or ISO to balance the extra light - this is what provides the highlights [sparkle]
If the flash is giving highlights but burning out, a cigarette paper over the flash will soften it
If it's still burning, reduce the intensity or the aperture - even a -2 stop flash will still give highlights
I say don't use editing software or you get used to taking poor photos and butchering them post-op instead of learning to get the shot right in the first place
It's hard to get it spot on, but every now and then it works like magic
- Thread starter
- #2,666
Gee64
Well-Known Member
White balance is a good thing to know. More later.
Word is among flash users @Lady Cannafan and @Roy Growin is to use some kind of diffuser over your flash. Something as simple as taping a piece of paper over the flash might work, or the simple frost on Scotch tape may work -- just tape over your flash and see what happens.
I see from a later post that you have an 18mp EOS Rebel. Plenty enough camera for web photography. My current PhOM winner was shot with a 14-year old, 12mp Nikon D90. I have a other cameras.
I'm not familiar with Canon, but I may be able to help.
The things we do for love.
If you can adjust contrast, exposure, highlights, shadows and sharpening on the phone, then you'll have a lot of tools there.
I use the Apple MacIntosh computers. Is that what you use?
LOL!
How about going into the scary valley of shooting with the Manual Setting?
As long as you are thinking about reading the manual, this might good place to start. Learn how to set Aperture, Shutter Speed, ISO and White Balance (WB)
Light values should not vary from tent to tent, after all, we're trying to simulate sunlight, but usually we never get there. In full sunshine the "Sunny Sixteen" rule applies, which is on a sunny day set aperture at f16 and shutter speed at the inverse of the ISO setting. Meaning at ISO 100, shutter speed should be 1/100 when the aperture is set at f16. Since our tents aren't fully daylight I find these settings useful:
ISO 100, Shutter @ 1/100 and Aperture at f8. And White Balance? As low as you can go, apparently.
That should get you into the ballpark. Play with it. What happens when you increase shutter? How about aperture? Increase exposure -- where do the trichomes blow out. Decrease exposure -- how much drama do you introduce in the shadows? Try keeping your ISO as low as possible, because you'll get the full performance out of your sensor. The higher your ISO the noisier the photo, and the less dynamic range you have.
The other setting you want to find is the one that gives you single-point focus. Using that, you pick the bud you want to focus on, not the camera. Learn to move that focus point around. Pick your bud.
You are kind, Ghee.
This bud's for you!
I turned the lights down a bit, used my 20mm f1.8 prime lens set at f2.5, ISO 100, 1/100 second and got in close and cropped the shot.
View media item 2642782
MGM
Holy Moly lol. First off, to both of you, thanks for the time involved in those MOST EXCELLENT responses!Don't recall if the EOS has custom white balance, but setting it to tungsten will remove the orange tint @Gee64
Think it does have a bracketing function tho, so you can take release the shutter once and the camera wil take your exposure plus a +/- exposure bracket either side
The problem is often that the lighting is overhead, the background in a tent is reflective and bright so it's hard to balance
The order I usually follow is
Step 1 - don't smoke a fattie of NL
Frame the picture - if using a zoom lens don't touch it after it's set
Decide on depth of field and set the aperture accordingly f5.6 - f8 55mm works ok for me [remember the focal range is an arc of distance, so the taking a shot from an 'above', angle will give you an very narrow band of focus; if you shoot from a more parallel angle, more of the pic will be in the focal plane - also, more depth of field is behind the focal point that in front of it, so focus just in front of what you want to capture]
Set the ISO to 400 so you have leeway either way
Set shutter speed to 1/125 - 1/250 if hand-held
Check the meter and adjust ISO up or down
That's the easy bit
Then set to manual, pop the flash up and set it to -1 stop
Because the flash is now providing frontal lighting, reduce aperture, exposure or ISO to balance the extra light - this is what provides the highlights [sparkle]
If the flash is giving highlights but burning out, a cigarette paper over the flash will soften it
If it's still burning, reduce the intensity or the aperture - even a -2 stop flash will still give highlights
I say don't use editing software or you get used to taking poor photos and butchering them post-op instead of learning to get the shot right in the first place
It's hard to get it spot on, but every now and then it works like magic
You 2 should set up shop. OK I'm not familiar with a lot of what you both said, but in about 2 more days I should have all my house painting done, and I am going to go through both these posts and itemize them, then start decipering, then give it a whirl.
When I try something in particular, can I tag you two so we can critique it?
AbsolutelyHoly Moly lol. First off, to both of you, thanks for the time involved in those MOST EXCELLENT responses!
OK I'm not familiar with a lot of what you both said, but in about 2 more days I should have all my house painting done, and I am going to go through both these posts and itemize them, then start decipering, then give it a whirl.
When I try something in particular, can I tag you two so we can critique it?
Meanwhile, look at the fine example pic MGM posted - nice photo, but...
Now imagine a weak flash was added for sparkle and the aperture was stopped down to f4 to compensate
All in sharp focus, blurred background, true colours and the flash giving the single point highlights
- Thread starter
- #2,668
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Tripod for that? or can I do it by hand?
By hand; set shutter speed to 1/250 or 1/500 if you can't brace yourself/the camera
- Thread starter
- #2,670
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Hey, I have an idea, if your willing to help. MGM you too.
Sometime mid week, if we are all on, could I take a pic, you guys critique/coach it, and I take it again as per you 2?
And photography is art, so if you 2 differ, we can try both. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
If you guys walk me through it I will digest the lesson far quicker. You could correct my mistakes as I make them.
If others are watching too, and get their game raised, maybe we can get some rockin photos flying around 420.
I have at least 2 full days of painting 1st tho, maybe 3.
Sometime mid week, if we are all on, could I take a pic, you guys critique/coach it, and I take it again as per you 2?
And photography is art, so if you 2 differ, we can try both. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
If you guys walk me through it I will digest the lesson far quicker. You could correct my mistakes as I make them.
If others are watching too, and get their game raised, maybe we can get some rockin photos flying around 420.
I have at least 2 full days of painting 1st tho, maybe 3.
- Thread starter
- #2,671
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Sure, I'd be interested in a thread like that
- Thread starter
- #2,673
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Ok cool.
. Tonight if I get a chance, I will condense what yourself and MGM suggested, then dig into white balance a bit on this camera, and try some pics. It has a custom white balance, but it involves me taking a picture and uploading it to the settings, so I will have to read up a bit on that one.- Thread starter
- #2,674
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Any good recomendations for a free android photo editing app?
Try a couple of test pics on tungsten and cloudy/shade settings, see what it does
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Gee64
Well-Known Member
OK @MicroGrowerMan @Roy Growin , I found the manual setting. Things just got a lot easier. There are settings all over that I can adjust now. So I went with ISO 100, Shutter 100, and F8.0. Just to see what the F's were all about, I took the same pic over and over on all 6 available F settings.
F4.5, F5.0, F5.6, F6.3, F7.1, F8.
White balance is 3200k. Tungsten.
I see how the F's work now. I like 8.0 the best.
Durban Poison - Day 62 of Flower.
F4.5
F5.0
F5.6
F6.3
F7.1
F8.0
F4.5, F5.0, F5.6, F6.3, F7.1, F8.
White balance is 3200k. Tungsten.
I see how the F's work now. I like 8.0 the best.
Durban Poison - Day 62 of Flower.
F4.5
F5.0
F5.6
F6.3
F7.1
F8.0
- Thread starter
- #2,677
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Tungsten worked great. It is 3200k, and on my phone where I can manually adjust white balance, about 3150k is best, so tungsten nailed it.
Good job.OK @MicroGrowerMan @Roy Growin , I found the manual setting. Things just got a lot easier. There are settings all over that I can adjust now. So I went with ISO 100, Shutter 100, and F8.0. Just to see what the F's were all about, I took the same pic over and over on all 6 available F settings.
F4.5, F5.0, F5.6, F6.3, F7.1, F8.
White balance is 3200k. Tungsten.
I see how the F's work now. I like 8.0 the best.
Durban Poison - Day 62 of Flower.
F4.5
F5.0
F5.6
F6.3
F7.1
F8.0
Now get as close as you can get to one of those colas and still stay in focus and see what happens. If you have a nice-looking cola that isn't hanging on wires that would be best. Also one in the middle of the forest might work well, too. Or try one in the front row. But get close.
If you're brave try flash while you are at it.
MGM
Cool
F5.6 looks best to me or you start to see the main focal points as the dark shadow under the cola, and whatever that black blob is centre top - and all those bits of string... and the zipper...
So as MGM suggests, re-frame the shot to capture some detail and rid distractions before you add a weak flash to highlight the trichomes
F5.6 looks best to me or you start to see the main focal points as the dark shadow under the cola, and whatever that black blob is centre top - and all those bits of string... and the zipper...
So as MGM suggests, re-frame the shot to capture some detail and rid distractions before you add a weak flash to highlight the trichomes
I thought 5.6 was the better one too