Just for my own diagnosis bank would that yellowing on tips and side of the leaves be potassium deficiency?
Not knocking your girls in any way just trying to get my skills up
Sorry Absorber, Sorry Mate, I just noticed this post now. I was waiting for someone to say it. You guys are all too polite
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You get a full explanation to what was occurring before you get the answer
It's a good story, and if you grow organically, heres what is/was going on.
Grab a coffee, this is a post you guys will like and probably apply moving forward, if you grow in LOS. This is a LOS thing.
There was a bit of a deficiency chasing me a few weeks back. I couldn't quite tell what it was but with the LED glasses on, you could see a funk in the leaves, which means in 10 days I will see it without the glasses on, and thats pretty normal for soil on it's first build, as phosphorus and potassium aren't readily available until the rock dusts and greensand starts to break down, so the easiest way out of it with soil, is to soak the rootballs to full saturation.
And most growers use new soil every time, so every run is "1st use" soil.
The root soak is almost like a reset. It homogenizes the calcium in the soil, which fixes magnesium, opens up oxygen (nitrogen), and all processes take off again, but it also ignites the spikes. You get a rush of nitrogen as the soil unlocks, and all the nitrogen that mag had locked up, because calccium was out, gets instantly released, which may curl a leaf tip here and there, and leaf tip burn for sure from all the other nutes in the spikes all kicking in at once.
Normally it's not this bad, but I think the 25% extra calcium I added this grow really
accelerated the effects of the root drench.
It cooked a lot of leaf tips, all to a different degree on each plant.
The tall pheno, the one with the weird cola tops that look like club-heads, is a light feeder, so it got tip burn the worst. Some fans got almost half-ways fried.
The 2 short pheno's which are the 2 with the nuggiest looking buds, got it mid-level burnt, and the one leafier budded pheno, which is the one that probably has the buzz I am looking for, but the least spectacular buds, is so tough it never got a scratch. Go figure.
The root drench fix is pretty much always needed on 1st run soil, and I knew it would cook some leaf tips, but its the best way out, and it worked perfectly. I have had no issues whatsoever since the drench, and all I have done since is topdress, use fish water, and about a week ago they were slowing down a bit too soon so I added one non-feed microbe tea just to boost microlife.
So to summarize, all I did as far as remedies go for this grow, was 1 root drench in RO water, and 1 microbe tea.
So to answer your question, the pots were locking themselves out and a root drench fixed it. It's because calcium needed to be tweaked and water will move calcium around in the pot. The lockout can show as just about any deficiency, so if you see a potassium deficiency in there, it's totally possible. It's a scar now from a few weeks back.
If it didn't work, and a specific deficiency started to show, now that the root drench has reset the pots, the specific fix, had I of needed one, would have worked way more effectively.
If calcium is out, then oxygen is restricted.
If oxygen is restricted and you don't fix it, you will chase deficiency for the rest of the grow in every direction.
Every nute MUST be assimilated with at least 1 oxygen molecule in order for myco/plant to recognize it as food. Hence the term aerobic. I deal with aerobic microbes in my pots, they need oxygen to be aerobic.
I know that sounds obviously, almost condescendingly, stupidly, beginner level obvious, but I have found that saying it out loud once in awhile solidifies the process for beginners. No oxygen no food. Limited oxygen, limited food. Full oxygen, fat colas.
The root drench hurts leaves, it's unavoidable, so if you have defoliated, you may be in trouble, but if you still have every leaf, the plant doesn't miss a beat.
Photosynthesis doesn't slow, it just gets spread to the other leaves. The leaf tip burn never slowed them down at all
It's just ugly like these ones, in every picture for the rest of their lives, but it's a great example of how protecting and using leaves protects the flowers for you.
It's also a great example of how important and powerful calcium is.
Fix calcium 1st. It might make the other problems go away.
The buds never suffered at all. These are ugly plants, but they have some of the better Durban buds that I have grown.
Now senescence is kicking in, so if we watch the leaves change you will see the signs of all deficiency roll through them.
It's because they aren't really eating the soil anymore, they are using up the leaves to ripen, and they store specific nutes in specific leaves, collecting those nutes over their lifetime to use now, to ripen properly as per their DNA, so if you defoliated, you may not (probably won't, I was being polite) ripen properly, and you will miss out on what the strain was advertised as. And potency too.
If you didn't defoliate, you will see different deficiencies briefly appear in the leaves as they finish and before they get canabalized, and you can watch and see what leaves contained what minerals as the plant uses them up. Thats what is starting right now.
If these had a purple gene it would be easier to see. You have likely seen lots of leaves striped like a mag def, but purple and finishing. Those were leaves that had mag in them.
Lots of people might argue defoliation is better, as they choose yield over quality, and defoliating will get you a lot more lower bud, but I detest larf.
So instead of removing leaves to light up the larf zone, I leave the leaves and remove the larf zone instead. It makes the main tops a lot bigger, and avoids deficiency as you aren't using nutes on larf.
If I go down the main colas about 15", give or take per plant, and snip the tops off, I have every bud on the cola in that snipped off top. The smallest nugs will be about ping-pong ball sized and hard. Worthy of trimming.
Then the worms get the rest of the plant.
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