"The Beast" gets serious!

Re: "The Beast" FryingPanFlyer gets serious!

mule said:
Man miss a day or two in here, and your lost... :popcorn:

Fry On the reveg mom... I read a post on here about revegging and the person stated it's though the plant somehow lived thru the Fall & winter and started growing back up in spring as a immature plant... It takes time as understand it to start throwing the big fan leaves out again...

If you keep showing pic's like that I have feeling we might get some more grower's moving to CO... :grinjoint: :smokin2: Keep up the fight!
Click to expand...

I'm thinking they'll be fine, it'll take a while but I'm expecting them to come back. They've been funny, were a real dark green, looked funky, but they are beginning to look a little closer to normal.

I'm staying out of the grow area right. I was watering my house plants, looked at the African Violets, hey, what's all the dust on them. I looked closer, WTF, That's not dust! I look for pictures on the web, damn, it's powdery mildew.

Okay, my hydro guy just went through this, that's why he wouldn't give me the clones. My plants don't have it, just my house plants. I threw them away as soon as I knew what it was. I chenged my clothes, washed hands etc. and stayed out of the grow space.

My commercial grower buddy says it's all part of growing, he uses a product called Zero-Tollerance, it's used for controlling all sorts of stuff including bugs and mildew. Kind of like Azamax, add it to the water for a systemic application or a foliar spray. My hydro guy got some in. I'll pick some up today so I can apply it to plants before they get the damn stuff. Gotta get on top of his bfore it becomes a problem.

Hey, I hear you guys are getting some snow down there, no snow here but pretty wet. The pups aren't going to get their walk this morning.
 
Re: "The Beast" FryingPanFlyer gets serious!

also, here are some alternatives. I prefer Neem oil or seranade.

"""AQ10: AQ10 uses a totally new method of fighting powdery mildew, a biofungicide. The active ingredient, Ampelomyces quisqualis, is a fungus that parasitizes the powdery mildew organism. It offers control over a long period of time.

Cinnamite: Cinnamite is an extract of cinnamon used as a miticide which is also effective as a fungicide. It is very easy to use, is effective and has a pleasant cinnamon odor. Studies show it is not harmful to marijuana plants.

Copper: Copper ions inactivate some fungal enzyme systems, killing the mycellium. Copper has been used for over 100 years, and is effective. A few brands of copper based fungicides are Phyton 27, Dexol Copper Bordeaux Mix and Kocide DF. There are many other brands available.

Neem Oil: Neem oil is pressed from the nut of the Indian Neem Tree. It protects against and kills mildew by interfering with respiration and collapsing the cell wall. Some growers claim that plants grow more vigorously when sprayed with dilute neem oil twice a month. There are many brands of neem oil available. Many of them are listed as organic.

Plant Shield: Plant Shield contains the organism Trichoderma harzianum strain T-22. This organism attacks fungi and mildews. It is used as a spray or dip. The organism seeks its food and forms a symbiotic relationship with plant roots, which it also protects.

Potassium Bicarbonate: Potassium bicarbonate collapses and desiccates the mildew hyphae. This is a very safe, very effective contact fungicide. Mildew do not develop resistance to it. The potassium in the formula is absorbed by the plant. Two brands are Kaligreen (registered in California) and Armicarb100.

Serenade: Is the fermentation product of a bacterium, bacillus subtillis, that inhibits cell growth of fungi and bacteria. It is very effective and easy to spray on or to use as a dip. It is a contact fungicide that kills only areas that it contacts. A wetting agent or spreader increases total contact.

Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda): Baking soda leaves an alkaline residue on the leaves. The sodium collapses the powdery mildew cell wall and the alkaline environment discourages growth. Plants have a limited tolerance to sodium, so the residue should be washed off before more is applied. Used at the rate of 1/2 teaspoon per quart of water with a wetting agent.

Sulfur: Elememtal sulfur interferes with mildew cellular respiration. It has been used as a fungicide for more than 100 years. There are small packages available in the baking sections of supermarkets.

These new remedies make it much easier to deal with powdery mildew. They are all non-toxic and eliminate the problem fairly easily.

Have you tryed hydrogen peroxide?? i like it,for pm it does sting abit though, 11 parts to 1 makes 3 percent."""

.......I believe that Vaporizor wrote that a long long time ago, but not sure. I've had it locked in my 'Remedy Vault" for a while.
 
Re: "The Beast" FryingPanFlyer gets serious!

jasonlee247 said:
also, here are some alternatives. I prefer Neem oil or seranade.

"""AQ10: AQ10 uses a totally new method of fighting powdery mildew, a biofungicide. The active ingredient, Ampelomyces quisqualis, is a fungus that parasitizes the powdery mildew organism. It offers control over a long period of time.

Cinnamite: Cinnamite is an extract of cinnamon used as a miticide which is also effective as a fungicide. It is very easy to use, is effective and has a pleasant cinnamon odor. Studies show it is not harmful to marijuana plants.

Copper: Copper ions inactivate some fungal enzyme systems, killing the mycellium. Copper has been used for over 100 years, and is effective. A few brands of copper based fungicides are Phyton 27, Dexol Copper Bordeaux Mix and Kocide DF. There are many other brands available.

Neem Oil: Neem oil is pressed from the nut of the Indian Neem Tree. It protects against and kills mildew by interfering with respiration and collapsing the cell wall. Some growers claim that plants grow more vigorously when sprayed with dilute neem oil twice a month. There are many brands of neem oil available. Many of them are listed as organic.

Plant Shield: Plant Shield contains the organism Trichoderma harzianum strain T-22. This organism attacks fungi and mildews. It is used as a spray or dip. The organism seeks its food and forms a symbiotic relationship with plant roots, which it also protects.

Potassium Bicarbonate: Potassium bicarbonate collapses and desiccates the mildew hyphae. This is a very safe, very effective contact fungicide. Mildew do not develop resistance to it. The potassium in the formula is absorbed by the plant. Two brands are Kaligreen (registered in California) and Armicarb100.

Serenade: Is the fermentation product of a bacterium, bacillus subtillis, that inhibits cell growth of fungi and bacteria. It is very effective and easy to spray on or to use as a dip. It is a contact fungicide that kills only areas that it contacts. A wetting agent or spreader increases total contact.

Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda): Baking soda leaves an alkaline residue on the leaves. The sodium collapses the powdery mildew cell wall and the alkaline environment discourages growth. Plants have a limited tolerance to sodium, so the residue should be washed off before more is applied. Used at the rate of 1/2 teaspoon per quart of water with a wetting agent.

Sulfur: Elememtal sulfur interferes with mildew cellular respiration. It has been used as a fungicide for more than 100 years. There are small packages available in the baking sections of supermarkets.

These new remedies make it much easier to deal with powdery mildew. They are all non-toxic and eliminate the problem fairly easily.

Have you tryed hydrogen peroxide?? i like it,for pm it does sting abit though, 11 parts to 1 makes 3 percent."""

.......I believe that Vaporizor wrote that a long long time ago, but not sure. I've had it locked in my 'Remedy Vault" for a while.
Click to expand...

Wow, this looks like the seminal work on pest problems in your grow area! Thanks for all the info. I'm going to print out a copy and take it to my hydro shop and see what they can hook me up with. Thanks for dropping this in my thread!
 
Re: "The Beast" FryingPanFlyer gets serious!

;) No problem man, but as I said at the end of that post I didn't write that. I keep it along with a TON of other info in a files for viewing for quick refrence. Most of those listed will actually work on most Fungal pathogens on the plant above soil.

...I belive that Vaporizer wrote it a long time ago, but am not sure.

I hope it helps.
jason:popcorn:
 
Re: "The Beast" FryingPanFlyer gets serious!

jasonlee247 said:
;) No problem man, but as I said at the end of that post I didn't write that. I keep it along with a TON of other info in a files for viewing for quick refrence. Most of those listed will actually work on most Fungal pathogens on the plant above soil.

...I belive that Vaporizer wrote it a long time ago, but am not sure.

I hope it helps.
jason:popcorn:
Click to expand...

Thanks again for posting that info in my thread, it's a good resource for everyone.

I went to the hydro store, they set me up with some Dutch Master Gold Range Saturator and Dutch Master Gold Range Zone. This guy has steered me right many times, he just had powdery mildew and this stuff got rid of it, he used it 3 weeks ago and no more problems.

The only problem I have is the Dutch Master site says nothing about it killing powdery mildew! The Saturator is for foliar feeding, which I will do since most don't have goos root yet. This stuff helps whatever you spray on the leaves to penetrate deeply into the leaves. The Zone does basically the same thing with the roots, but you mix it with the saturator and spray it on the leaves. This is supposed to have bacteria in it that will kill and mildew.

I just feel funny about it since the site doesn't say it will do what I want it to. I'll go ahead and use it, I don't think it can hurt anything. And I'm not having trouble with my plants so what the heck, this is just a preventative and it sounds like it will only make my plants healthy.

Does anyone else have any experience with this product? My hydro guy just used it and it worked.
 
Re: "The Beast" FryingPanFlyer gets serious!

I would think that it mostlikely contains bacillus subtillis, many rooting products do now, and that would mostlikly kill off mildew. Makes sense.

good luck. Have you actually seen mildew on your girls? or are you preventing?
 
Re: "The Beast" FryingPanFlyer gets serious!

jasonlee247 said:
I would think that it mostlikely contains bacillus subtillis, many rooting products do now, and that would mostlikly kill off mildew. Makes sense.

good luck. Have you actually seen mildew on your girls? or are you preventing?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the explanation, that's pretty much what my hydro guy said.

No, nothing on the plants, just freaking out a little having found some on my house plants. Almost makes me feel like tossing all those out! They are never in the room with my grow, but just the same..
 
Re: "The Beast" FryingPanFlyer gets serious!

The Butcher said:
Root update sound great. How are the flowering time and nutrient tolerences on the strains? I cant wait to see how the AK/CL come out.
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Oops, sorry I missed responding to this one Butcher, got a little carried away I guess.

Actually, I'm not sure of either flowering time or nute tolerances, I didn't really want to go with new strains this time, but this is what my partner picked up.

But I'm not too concerned about nute tolerances as I generally use a very low level of nutes, the last grows I've been staying under 900 ppm the whole grow. My water starts at 400, lots of calcium and other minerals present. I feel this low level of nutes will help to avoid problems such as burn and it still gives me good production.

Flowering time, well I'm hoping it's not too much of a problem. If one is ready too far ahead of another I can disconnect that tube from the system and clean it out and just leave it off for the remainder. I've got one strain per tube so that should take care of that problem.

And as to the strains, well I'm not familiar with any, but from the reactions I get from everyone when I tell them I'm really looking forward to all of them!

I guess that AK- Cherry Lime puts out a very lime green colored bud, pretty unusual I guess. This should be fun!
 
Re: "The Beast" FryingPanFlyer gets serious!

Okay, a little introspection here.

You all know I've been dealing with a heat problem here since first light in the beast (I'm an amateur astronomer, the first time they look through a new telescope is referred to as "first light", this was the first time I turned the lights on). My first step was to exhaust the heat from the 3k lights to the outside would help a ton. It dropped the temp by 12 from 97 to 85 degrees. But still, 85 was hot, and when I put the NL and WWM mothers in the veg closet that added 5 degrees of heat.

i know that adding air into the space would cool things down a bit, but I didn't like all the ideas for bringing that cold air into the space. The last conversation I had with my hydro guy he had a 4" high-output fan. Sounded reasonable.

I just couldn't pull the trigger, I wasn't done thinking this system out. I was going to put a 6" inline fan with a line to the outside, this probably would have added plenty of air to cool my space. But, after talking to my hydro guy who only had a 4" high output fan that would certainly move all the air I need. But my location of the intake is about 30' from my neighbors grill so I'd best keep thing quiet.

So, you can move a lot through a small hole but it will be loud. Or, you can move the same amount of air through a larger hole at a lower velocity.

So, tonight I realized what I should do is get an 8" fan and use an 8" line to reduce the velocity and the noise at the same time.

By the time you read this I may have increased this to 10" or 12".
 
Re: "The Beast" FryingPanFlyer gets serious!

FryingPanFlyer said:
Okay, a little introspection here.

You all know I've been dealing with a heat problem here since first light in the beast (I'm an amateur astronomer, the first time they look through a new telescope is referred to as "first light", this was the first time I turned the lights on). My first step was to exhaust the heat from the 3k lights to the outside would help a ton. It dropped the temp by 12 from 97 to 85 degrees. But still, 85 was hot, and when I put the NL and WWM mothers in the veg closet that added 5 degrees of heat.

i know that adding air into the space would cool things down a bit, but I didn't like all the ideas for bringing that cold air into the space. The last conversation I had with my hydro guy he had a 4" high-output fan. Sounded reasonable.

I just couldn't pull the trigger, I wasn't done thinking this system out. I was going to put a 6" inline fan with a line to the outside, this probably would have added plenty of air to cool my space. But, after talking to my hydro guy who only had a 4" high output fan that would certainly move all the air I need. But my location of the intake is about 30' from my neighbors grill so I'd best keep thing quiet.

So, you can move a lot through a small hole but it will be loud. Or, you can move the same amount of air through a larger hole at a lower velocity.

So, tonight I realized what I should do is get an 8" fan and use an 8" line to reduce the velocity and the noise at the same time.

By the time you read this I may have increased this to 10" or 12".
Click to expand...

couldent you just extend your fan lower,go from reg size hosing to just a bit bigger to make a barrel then go back to reg size hosing into a diy dampener before your outlet.the extra air room in the barrel gives it time to slow down befor the dampener .just an idea.......wait after re-reading this i see you need air in not out,my bad ,,but the same idea could still apply,,just put the fan at the end of the barrel with the dampener on the intake(you may not even need the dampener just make a longer barrel)
 
Re: "The Beast" FryingPanFlyer gets serious!

bendog420 said:
couldent you just extend your fan lower,go from reg size hosing to just a bit bigger to make a barrel then go back to reg size hosing into a diy dampener before your outlet
Click to expand...

When moving air you have the option of moving that amount of air through a small opening at a high velocity or a large opening at a low velocity. The higher the velocity the higher the sound, and the lower the velocity the lower the level of noise.

I could use the 4" high velocity fan my hydro guy has, but it would be loud. The 8" fan could move the same amount of air at a very low velocity and thusly a very low noise levels.

You gotta think these things out1
 
Re: "The Beast" FryingPanFlyer gets serious!

FryingPanFlyer said:
When moving air you have the option of moving that amount of air through a small opening at a high velocity or a large opening at a low velocity. The higher the velocity the higher the sound, and the lower the velocity the lower the level of noise.

I could use the 4" high velocity fan my hydro guy has, but it would be loud. The 8" fan could move the same amount of air at a very low velocity and thusly a very low noise levels.

You gotta think these things out1
Click to expand...

but on the end of the barrel wouldent it reduce noise by having more air room to pull??im just naming ideas that come to mind hopeing you might be able to grow off em,,l
 
Re: "The Beast" FryingPanFlyer gets serious!

bendog420 said:
but on the end of the barrel it wouldent it reduce noise by having more air room to pull??im just naming ideas that come to mind hopeing you might be able to grow off em,,l
Click to expand...

Bottom line, I'm thinking of moving "x" amount of air through either a 4" hole or an 8" hole. Smaller hole greater velocity, greater noise, bigger hole lower velocity lower noise.

You want to make it a little more quiet, use a bigger fan running at a lower velocity.

I guess I could have said this in the first place. Sorry
 
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