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I went back digging. Page1 is the beginning of Osmo banter... so sorry to send you that far back. Ugly.
Tead's Indoor-ish, Winter, Hempy, OGK, SOG
- Thread starter Tead
- Start date
I went back digging. Page1 is the beginning of Osmo banter... so sorry to send you that far back. Ugly.
No problem.
It's not like I have to fight off 'gators now, is it? I... I don't do I? 
I'll look it over and make Lowe's my destination for the walk I'm feeling compelled to take. Just putting on the shoes now. Thanks Tead.
AKgramma
Well-Known Member
Tead: Obviously I'll have to start a hempy with plants that have never seen soil, right? If so, that means one of my brand new clones will be the guinea pig.
Second question: If I start in a small container, since I only have 2 small bags of Perlite (That was all that was on the store shelf), can I up-pot as the clone grows? Is there any special technique you use to up-pot?
Third question: Should I pre-wet the perlite with water with dilute nutes in it?
Second question: If I start in a small container, since I only have 2 small bags of Perlite (That was all that was on the store shelf), can I up-pot as the clone grows? Is there any special technique you use to up-pot?
Third question: Should I pre-wet the perlite with water with dilute nutes in it?
OK, I jumped back. I need a pair of growing containers, perlite and osmo+. I can start my seeds in Rockwool ala' the germination tutorial B A R shared with us, and then plant the established seedling into the perlite. I should be good to go within the two week timeframe. That gives me time to get the light raised up to max and get the interior of the closet ready. I'm so glad I painted it all so well when I started.
I'm excited Tead.
This solves my supply concerns beautifully.
Off on my walk.
I'm excited Tead.
This solves my supply concerns beautifully. Off on my walk.
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- #1,305
I've seen people migrate from soil to perlite, but probably easiest to just start with a clean clone or seed. If one were migrating, a simple washing procedure trying to remove as much soil as possible without disturbing the roots would be called for.
You can up pot... mostly just like if you're up potting in soil really. Up potting in pure perlite is a touch easier if the medium in the plant is good and wet... helps the root ball and perlite mass hold together some.
I always pre-wet and sometimes flush new mediums. Soil, perlite, verm.... whatever. And yes, I do flavor my water just a touch with a small bit of my Dyna Gro 'Grow' nutrients, and some cal mag (well... milk and epsom salt, but you should use CalMag).
My base mix that I use for clone and Osmo+ feeding is 1/2tsp Dyna Gro 'Grow', 2tsp milk. 1tsp epsom salt. This provides a bit for any new clone roots and works equally well in the Osmo+ pot.
lexort420
Well-Known Member
Quite the day for conversions eh tead? Lol
- Thread starter
- #1,307
I find that a little extra help when diving in foreign waters is always appreciated and usually supplied happily. Just sharing the love that once shared with me... but that's the routine around here.
Thanks for your help and input along the way. Sharin the luv as well. Awesome.
Thanks for your help and input along the way. Sharin the luv as well. Awesome.
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- #1,308
Plus, when it's something you love so much, you want everyone to have a good experience trying it, so I'm sure I'll be all over them. Poor victims.
- Thread starter
- #1,309
For today's lesson, we'll pull out the podium and desks instead of the pulpit and pews.
So, bucket creation. Seems like the next step.
There are bucket selection thoughts. We've touched on them a bit already. I use more standard shape buckets.
Make sure whatever container you use is light proof. Black spray paint or a couple of layers of duct tape both work well. I've done both. Black buckets need no help unless they're thin. Light getting to the res or root area will cause bad growth. Some must get in thru the drain hole, but it's not been a problem for me. I do see a bit of green algae growing around inside the hole usually.
Drill a 7/16 (ish) hole about 2 inches up from the bottom of the bucket. There might be a lip on the outside of the bucket, so measure on the inside.
There can be some flexibility on the hole height. Folks sometimes adjust for various reasons, but usually stay within 1" of the 2" mark.
I increased the height of my 2Ls because the bottom of the soda bottle is not straight and some of the space is used up by the shape. My 2Ls are at about 2.5"
Fill your container with perlite (or whatever). If you're doing an Osmo, now is the time to insert your Osmo. More on feeding in other lessons.
I use MG perlite, so I like to flush it with tap water some. I use tap water and a garden hose at this point, tho one could easily do it in a bathtub too. I'm just trying to wash off any nutrients that might have been hanging out in that bag for a year. MG perlite has very little nutes, and it's usually in the form of those little balls, but I like to flush it none the less.
The mix will grow a touch after water is introduced... but very little really.
When you flush, become familiar with how easily the hole will become clogged. When it does, poke it with a nail or toothpick... or whatever. The little chunk blocking it will come flowing out... don't worry... another one will block it up soon enough. Don't let it concern you. The blocking will happen less as the medium settles. More less when you move from a flush to normal watering cycles.
Note how far out the stream of water shoots when you have a good bit of water in the bucket. This will help you gauge the output later when you're doing normal waterings. Don't forget, you'll need a saucer with enough of a radius to contain the water stream.
A word about clogged holes when you've got a plant on board. This is bad. It will rot your baby in a matter of days. I had a recent issue where the plant just rotted away at the top of the medium and fell over. Happened so fast. May you not learn that lesson the hard way. Make sure your plant is draining well when you water her.
Now that you've got your medium all flushed and settled, give it one more watering with whatever mix you want to start your plant in.
I use .5 tsp/gal grow mix along with my DIY CalMag for this.
Of course, your water and your world are not mine. There are not spot on answers to any nutrient questions.
And that will be the conclusion of today's course. Questions welcomed with open arms.
So, bucket creation. Seems like the next step.
There are bucket selection thoughts. We've touched on them a bit already. I use more standard shape buckets.
Make sure whatever container you use is light proof. Black spray paint or a couple of layers of duct tape both work well. I've done both. Black buckets need no help unless they're thin. Light getting to the res or root area will cause bad growth. Some must get in thru the drain hole, but it's not been a problem for me. I do see a bit of green algae growing around inside the hole usually.
Drill a 7/16 (ish) hole about 2 inches up from the bottom of the bucket. There might be a lip on the outside of the bucket, so measure on the inside.
There can be some flexibility on the hole height. Folks sometimes adjust for various reasons, but usually stay within 1" of the 2" mark.
I increased the height of my 2Ls because the bottom of the soda bottle is not straight and some of the space is used up by the shape. My 2Ls are at about 2.5"
Fill your container with perlite (or whatever). If you're doing an Osmo, now is the time to insert your Osmo. More on feeding in other lessons.
I use MG perlite, so I like to flush it with tap water some. I use tap water and a garden hose at this point, tho one could easily do it in a bathtub too. I'm just trying to wash off any nutrients that might have been hanging out in that bag for a year. MG perlite has very little nutes, and it's usually in the form of those little balls, but I like to flush it none the less.
The mix will grow a touch after water is introduced... but very little really.
When you flush, become familiar with how easily the hole will become clogged. When it does, poke it with a nail or toothpick... or whatever. The little chunk blocking it will come flowing out... don't worry... another one will block it up soon enough. Don't let it concern you. The blocking will happen less as the medium settles. More less when you move from a flush to normal watering cycles.
Note how far out the stream of water shoots when you have a good bit of water in the bucket. This will help you gauge the output later when you're doing normal waterings. Don't forget, you'll need a saucer with enough of a radius to contain the water stream.
A word about clogged holes when you've got a plant on board. This is bad. It will rot your baby in a matter of days. I had a recent issue where the plant just rotted away at the top of the medium and fell over. Happened so fast. May you not learn that lesson the hard way. Make sure your plant is draining well when you water her.
Now that you've got your medium all flushed and settled, give it one more watering with whatever mix you want to start your plant in.
I use .5 tsp/gal grow mix along with my DIY CalMag for this.
Of course, your water and your world are not mine. There are not spot on answers to any nutrient questions.
And that will be the conclusion of today's course. Questions welcomed with open arms.
- Thread starter
- #1,310
Wow.. that was a long-ass post about the bucket and medium prep.
I didn't realize it stretched so long until after I hit the post button and saw it again. I bet it's full 'o typos.
I didn't realize it stretched so long until after I hit the post button and saw it again. I bet it's full 'o typos.
AKgramma
Well-Known Member
Was good stuff, tho. I have an empty kitty litter jug that calculates to 2.3 gallons, and more rooted clones (juveniles, actually) than I know what to do with. I can spare one of the BBLs in a quart container for the experiment.
I not only have "saucers" but also a large catch tray on the bottom shelf to catch spills. So am doubly covered there.
Do you think I can go right to 12/12, since the juvenile is ready to switch, and I have the room for the jug in the flower unit?)
I not only have "saucers" but also a large catch tray on the bottom shelf to catch spills. So am doubly covered there.
Do you think I can go right to 12/12, since the juvenile is ready to switch, and I have the room for the jug in the flower unit?)
Tead, they sell perlite infused with MG. Would this be acceptable?
If not I think I need new for the SWICKs anyway. I didn't know about the fertilizer. Never mind. I'll buy the little Chapun sprayer instead. I knew I was here for a reason other than the Osmo+.
If not I think I need new for the SWICKs anyway. I didn't know about the fertilizer. Never mind. I'll buy the little Chapun sprayer instead. I knew I was here for a reason other than the Osmo+.
Sorry Tead. I didn't read first. I'll grab a couple bags. 
- Thread starter
- #1,314
Ok... I lied... I'm feelin it. Let's go for tomorrow's lesson. I have some hot dates tomorrow that will most likely keep me entertained elsewhere, so plant your asses back into those seats folks.
Sidenote... this is good... I've been meaning to write all this down for SO damn long.
Nutients (ugh!)
We are talking hydroponics here. Sure, super easy hydro, but hydro none the less. There are many things that are significantly different between the hydro and soil grows. For example, using hydro, one must supply all nutrients to the plant. Neutral mediums provide nothing in the way of nutrients.
Temps are a traditional enemy to hydroponics. Water tanks over 75f-ish might start growing bad things. This was my experience with active hydro... but that's a very old thread. Hempy pots just don't suffer the problems that res's in other systems suffer. I really don't know the technical reason here... but I've exceeded 100f before.... didn't help the girls, but nothing bad grew in the bucket.
Of course, then there are the pumps, buckets, coolers, lines, wires, whatever. Fortunately, we have no need to even touch that hot mess.
Water has to be considered. What's already in the water you use? Chlorine? Metals? One's water doesn't have to be sterile, but having some handle on what's in it is a good thing to keep in mind as you adjust your nutrient levels. I use city tap water that sets for at least 48 hours to off-gas the chlorine. I keep a 5gal bucket around for water... fill it when it gets low.
So, yeah, it's hydro, but it's just so damn simple.
Pick your nutes and mix some up baby. Any of the hydro nute programs are fine. I like the 2 part ones rather than the 3 part ones, but that a reflection of my laziness. Most of the nute manufacturers put out a nutrient chart with feeding levels for various stages of life. This might be a good place to start.
I use plant color as a guide. Nice light colored newer growth with older growth being a darker green. This is the same as soil grows really... it does happen faster in hydro, but everything does and that's kinda the goal. When I see too much of the lighter green growth, I bump up my nutrient mix. If I see mostly dark growth, I drop it down a touch.
If you step over the line and over nute them, you'll very quickly see issues... like probably within 12hrs. You can flush and recover from there. This can be really damaging.... try to stay on the light side of feeding.
Every time you feed, you want to flush out the old mix. You really can't use too much water. I fill the pot slowly and gently. Soon, the stream will start shooting out of the hole. I keep filling until I see 'full stream' (think Austin Powers and the peeing cherubs). Then I slowly stop pouring. I usually get about 5 seconds of 'full stream', then it slows gradually. Keep them in the saucers for a good 5min after you think it's done... they take a good while to fully stop dripping.
My 3gals use about .5 gal per feeding. The 2Ls significantly less. If I were feeding just one 3gal bucket, I'd mix just 1/2 gal halving all my nutrient bits.
I feed every 3 days. Others have vastly different feeding regimes mostly based mostly on container sizes and local environments. Many do 5gal buckets and weekly feedings. I'm really just not convinced that any minor variations have any impact at all. I'd probably grow just as well using a 5 day feeding cycle.
Osmocote... well... that's just another ball of wax all together. Doc Bud had some nice info about it. Do some searches in the 'completed grow' section... you'll find a few. Here's another.
Really.... It's just so darn simple. I don't think you can overfeed unless you supplement.
I try to keep my plants around the recommended 5.8 for hydro. My standard nutrient mix drifts up over time. Since it sits in there for 3 days, I shoot for ~5.6 and let it drift up. The osmo is different and the ph of the water drops instead of rising... Osmos start at about 6 in my garden.
You'll probably have to supplement Cal and Mag. Most folks use calmag, but diy sources are easily available. I use milk and epsom salt.
I'm sure there are many other points to make in the nutrient category, but I'm bored now. Class dismissed... go visit some havok upon the earth. Run amuck!
As always, question happily received.
Sidenote... this is good... I've been meaning to write all this down for SO damn long.
Nutients (ugh!)
We are talking hydroponics here. Sure, super easy hydro, but hydro none the less. There are many things that are significantly different between the hydro and soil grows. For example, using hydro, one must supply all nutrients to the plant. Neutral mediums provide nothing in the way of nutrients.
Temps are a traditional enemy to hydroponics. Water tanks over 75f-ish might start growing bad things. This was my experience with active hydro... but that's a very old thread. Hempy pots just don't suffer the problems that res's in other systems suffer. I really don't know the technical reason here... but I've exceeded 100f before.... didn't help the girls, but nothing bad grew in the bucket.
Of course, then there are the pumps, buckets, coolers, lines, wires, whatever. Fortunately, we have no need to even touch that hot mess.
Water has to be considered. What's already in the water you use? Chlorine? Metals? One's water doesn't have to be sterile, but having some handle on what's in it is a good thing to keep in mind as you adjust your nutrient levels. I use city tap water that sets for at least 48 hours to off-gas the chlorine. I keep a 5gal bucket around for water... fill it when it gets low.
So, yeah, it's hydro, but it's just so damn simple.
Pick your nutes and mix some up baby. Any of the hydro nute programs are fine. I like the 2 part ones rather than the 3 part ones, but that a reflection of my laziness. Most of the nute manufacturers put out a nutrient chart with feeding levels for various stages of life. This might be a good place to start.
I use plant color as a guide. Nice light colored newer growth with older growth being a darker green. This is the same as soil grows really... it does happen faster in hydro, but everything does and that's kinda the goal. When I see too much of the lighter green growth, I bump up my nutrient mix. If I see mostly dark growth, I drop it down a touch.
If you step over the line and over nute them, you'll very quickly see issues... like probably within 12hrs. You can flush and recover from there. This can be really damaging.... try to stay on the light side of feeding.
Every time you feed, you want to flush out the old mix. You really can't use too much water. I fill the pot slowly and gently. Soon, the stream will start shooting out of the hole. I keep filling until I see 'full stream' (think Austin Powers and the peeing cherubs). Then I slowly stop pouring. I usually get about 5 seconds of 'full stream', then it slows gradually. Keep them in the saucers for a good 5min after you think it's done... they take a good while to fully stop dripping.
My 3gals use about .5 gal per feeding. The 2Ls significantly less. If I were feeding just one 3gal bucket, I'd mix just 1/2 gal halving all my nutrient bits.
I feed every 3 days. Others have vastly different feeding regimes mostly based mostly on container sizes and local environments. Many do 5gal buckets and weekly feedings. I'm really just not convinced that any minor variations have any impact at all. I'd probably grow just as well using a 5 day feeding cycle.
Osmocote... well... that's just another ball of wax all together. Doc Bud had some nice info about it. Do some searches in the 'completed grow' section... you'll find a few. Here's another.
Really.... It's just so darn simple. I don't think you can overfeed unless you supplement.
I try to keep my plants around the recommended 5.8 for hydro. My standard nutrient mix drifts up over time. Since it sits in there for 3 days, I shoot for ~5.6 and let it drift up. The osmo is different and the ph of the water drops instead of rising... Osmos start at about 6 in my garden.
You'll probably have to supplement Cal and Mag. Most folks use calmag, but diy sources are easily available. I use milk and epsom salt.
I'm sure there are many other points to make in the nutrient category, but I'm bored now. Class dismissed... go visit some havok upon the earth. Run amuck!
As always, question happily received.
- Thread starter
- #1,315
Saucers.... trash can lids.... whatever floats your boat. I use 'crawfish trays'. Big round hard plastic trays. You'd normally get verbally abused with stories about crawfish, but I'll let one pass... if for no other reason than to be able to say "Hey... I don't take every opportunity to talk about food dammit!".
You could... but I'd let it get used to it's new home for a bit of time... especially since they in plain water and this will be the first time their roots touch anything. Be sure to keep the roots spread as much as possible.
One of the nuances about hempy buckets has to do with the roots. The plants grow at what I would consider soil speed until their root reach down to the res at the bottom. After the roots hit the res, growth speed accelerates to what I would consider hydro speed.
You could... but I'd let it get used to it's new home for a bit of time... especially since they in plain water and this will be the first time their roots touch anything. Be sure to keep the roots spread as much as possible.
One of the nuances about hempy buckets has to do with the roots. The plants grow at what I would consider soil speed until their root reach down to the res at the bottom. After the roots hit the res, growth speed accelerates to what I would consider hydro speed.
- Thread starter
- #1,316
Sorry Tead. I didn't read first. I'll grab a couple bags.
Perlite actually comes in many different types. I prefer stuff a bit courser than the MG stuff, but I have only MG at my local sources.
Will I simply mix the Osmo throughout the perlite? I'll review the threads you linked, Doc's in particular. One has to wonder why I didn't opt for azalea pots in kit soil. I figure see what this excitement is like. I can compare the two methods and choose the one that works best for me.
I have two weeks before my next seed. Lots to cover between now and then.
I have two weeks before my next seed. Lots to cover between now and then.
- Thread starter
- #1,318
Some folks go for a thicker density lower down. I've been evenly distributing the mix. I dunno... it's a pretty fine nuance, but I've been meaning to try a thicker density at the bottom. Will it make a difference... will it be a difference I can detect.... I count these in the "Great Mysteries of Life" category.
lexort420
Well-Known Member
skimmed real quick so maybe i missed it but everyone looking to start hempys should atleast have a ph meter if ya don't already. I would suggest a ppm meter but frankly i don't really use the one i have lol.
My water has chloramines in it, and that doesn't dissipate by evaporation. I have to add organic matter to it. I'm pretty sure in this case it'd be better to treat the water with a smidgen of compost or peat moss (is peat moss an acceptable option? 
) instead of using molasses.
) instead of using molasses.