SubCool Supersoil In SIPs With EWC, CBD Autos For Aspergers

[cbdhemp808]

Lookin' good!

 

[CBDMed]

Ok, clone update.

The three bluter-style cups on the left all look good so far.
EDIT: these are the three that were not exposed to the cold.
This room is maybe 70° or something, but it does not get cold at night (especially now that we are leaving winter).
So far the three new bluter cups all seem to be doing well.

I did have eight Azi cups, and I was misting them three times a day, but I guess it was not enough on the perlite. Two of the cups wilted, so in addition to spraying the canopy three times a day I also begin giving five or six good spritzes to the perlite,, to make sure it stays wet. I was extra happy today when I saw several of the Azi cups lifting their little clipped arms and praying today. \o/
It is still ICU, but so far everything is looking much better!

Thanks also to everyone's help, I think I'm finally cluing in on this Indica versus sativa pheno thing.

I bought a mess of indica photo seeds back when we were still on the drier (Pacific) side.
I do not know if the seeds are still good, but I have them in the fridge drawer. I thought maybe I could plant them and see if any of them come up as sativa phenos (and then I can clone or make seeds from there).
Maybe the heat mats will add just a little bit of heat, which should be good for the clones also.

I was super happy to see the Azi clones praying today, and the bluter clones all looking good!
There is hope even for this clone-killer!

 

[InTheShed]

They look good to me! I always believed that clones root faster if you don't get the leaves wet. If they get water through through the leaves they don't need to grow roots.

 

[CBDMed]

They look good to me! I always believed that clones root faster if you don't get the leaves wet. If they get water through through the leaves they don't need to grow roots.

I hear it.
I think maybe after they have been going good for a while (maybe a week) I can spray only the perlite.

 

[cbdhemp808]

I use coco w/ a little perlite and light nutes, and a dome, with plenty of misting of the cuttings and the dome itself. I get 100% in about 2 weeks or so. I also use Clonex gel, which I keep in the fridge. The cuttings are in 4" pots, and at the finish roots are coming out the bottom.

 

[CBDMed]

I use coco w/ a little perlite and light nutes, and a dome, with plenty of misting of the cuttings and the dome itself. I get 100% in about 2 weeks or so. I also use Clonex gel, which I keep in the fridge. The cuttings are in 4" pots, and at the finish roots are coming out the bottom.

Thanks.
I think Clonex is Indole Butyric Acid?
Someone said IBA is a known carcinogen?

 

[cbdhemp808]

Thanks.
I think Clonex is Indole Butyric Acid?
Someone said IBA is a known carcinogen?

Clonex contains indole-3-butyric acid (IBA), which is a natural hormone produced by the plants which promotes root development. The product contains only 0.31% IBA. From what I can tell, it is not a known carcinogen. I trust this database: $OG_TITLE .

Depending on how much cloning you do, a 3.4 oz bottle of Clonex in the fridge can last for months or years.

 

[CBDMed]

Clonex contains indole-3-butyric acid (IBA), which is a natural hormone produced by the plants which promotes root development. The product contains only 0.31% IBA. From what I can tell, it is not a known carcinogen. I trust this database: $OG_TITLE .

Depending on how much cloning you do, a 3.4 oz bottle of Clonex in the fridge can last for months or years.

TOXICITY OF Indole-3-butryric acid
Acute Toxicity:
Insufficiently Studied
Endocrine Disruptor:
Insufficiently Studied
Cholinesterase Inhibitor:
No
Ground Water Contaminant:
Insufficiently Studied
Carcinogen:
Insufficiently Studied
Bee Toxicant

:
Not Listed
Development Or Reproductive Toxicant:
Insufficiently Studied

**

???

 

[cbdhemp808]

TOXICITY OF Indole-3-butryric acid
Acute Toxicity:
Insufficiently Studied
Endocrine Disruptor:
Insufficiently Studied
Cholinesterase Inhibitor:
No
Ground Water Contaminant:
Insufficiently Studied
Carcinogen:
Insufficiently Studied
Bee Toxicant

:
Not Listed
Development Or Reproductive Toxicant:
Insufficiently Studied

**

???

It just means that it is generally regarded as safe, and therefore not studied. It's a natural substance in plants.

Here's from the Health tab of the database entry, below. This is the important part... REPRODUCTIVE, CANCER, ENDOCRINE. IBA is "Not Listed" in the most strict databases worldwide in any category. If you want to go completely natural, you could try aloe gel which contains "growth hormones like gibberellin and salicylic acid". Maybe add some juice from ground-up tomato leaves and stalks, which contain IBA. You could also add a little water with ascorbic acid powder (vit. C) dissolved in it, as a preservative.

 

[CBDMed]

It just means that it is generally regarded as safe, and therefore not studied. It's a natural substance in plants.

Here's from the Health tab of the database entry, below. This is the important part... REPRODUCTIVE, CANCER, ENDOCRINE. IBA is "Not Listed" in the most strict databases worldwide in any category. If you want to go completely natural, you could try aloe gel which contains "growth hormones like gibberellin and salicylic acid". Maybe add some juice from ground-up tomato leaves and stalks, which contain IBA. You could also add a little water with ascorbic acid powder (vit. C) dissolved in it, as a preservative.

Ok, thank you. I might try the aloe and the cinnamon. I'm just a little bit spooked because there are several websites where they talk about how IB powders were banned about 10 years ago, and there's no explanation as to why they used to be banned, and now they are not. (And after asbestos, Agent Orange and DDT, and they listed Roundup as safe, I don't trust anything they say.)

 

[cbdhemp808]

Cinnamon? I was recommending freshly made juice from tomato leaves and stalks.

Think about it... IBA is a natural hormone in the plants. If it was dangerous, then eating plant material would be dangerous. Sure, its concentrated in Clonex gel, but you're not going to eat the gel.

I am curious to see one website that can be trusted indicating that there's anything to worry about with IAA or IBA, in terms of toxicity to humans, animals, or the environment. Can you provide one?

I trust the Pesticide Action Network's database. "PAN’s mission is to end reliance on hazardous pesticides and achieve health, resilience and justice in food and farming."

 

[CBDMed]

Cinnamon? I was recommending freshly made juice from tomato leaves and stalks.

Think about it... IBA is a natural hormone in the plants. If it was dangerous, then eating plant material would be dangerous. Sure, its concentrated in Clonex gel, but you're not going to eat the gel.

I am curious to see one website that can be trusted indicating that there's anything to worry about with IAA or IBA, in terms of toxicity to humans, animals, or the environment. Can you provide one?

I trust the Pesticide Action Network's database. "PAN’s mission is to end reliance on hazardous pesticides and achieve health, resilience and justice in food and farming."

Sorry,I'm not an expert on the matter at all.
Yes, sorry, I did see that you mentioned the ground up tomato plants and things, but I don't have any.
Sorry, I'm a bit tired, I'm trying to wrap things up and go to bed early, I have not been feeling well lately.
I was researching natural rooting hormones before when I saw that they had banned the IBA powders in the past. So just from a Google search, they said that there are several natural rotting hormones (or substitutes for rotting hormones) including aloe vera gel, cinnamon, and honey. Also Willow bark tea, etc.
sorry, I do not know all the details. It may be a super safe. I don't know. I just have so many health issues since birth, I like the thought of not taking any more chances than necessary.
I used to use clone X along time ago and it worked great! But then I got spooked. So I'm just trying to minimize my risk is all.
It makes sense what you were saying, that it is a natural occurring plant compound so it should not be a problem.

 

[cbdhemp808]

OK brother, I hope you are feeling better. Take care.

 

[CBDMed]

OK brother, I hope you are feeling better. Take care.

Thanks. I think I am just suffering from exhaustion. I need to get more rest (but there is too much to do).

I was told this morning that they are about a week or two away from finishing the greenhouse.
I am starting seeds for the greenhouse.
Since Colombia is only a few degrees off of the equator it is basically +/- 12/12 most of the time, so I am thinking that I will probably need night interruption lighting, on a timer.
Is there a good solar powered light kit with a timer (to bring the lights on at midnight)?

Also, about how far apart do you put the lights? (Do you want one on both sides of each plant? Or how does that go?)
I was looking at some kits on the River, but I am not sure which one I need. Do you already have that sorted out?
Thanks.

EDIT: also, I was thinking about starting a new thread for the greenhouse grow (to keep things straight).
Did you put your Greenhouse thread in the Organic category, or the Outside category? (Because it is kind of both.)

 

[cbdhemp808]

Thanks. I think I am just suffering from exhaustion. I need to get more rest (but there is too much to do).

I was told this morning that they are about a week or two away from finishing the greenhouse.
I am starting seeds for the greenhouse.
Since Colombia is only a few degrees off of the equator it is basically +/- 12/12 most of the time, so I am thinking that I will probably need night interruption lighting, on a timer.

The shortest night in the northern hemisphere is on summer solstice, June 20. For us in Hawaii it's 10.67 hours of dark period, which is still enough for mature plants to flower. In Bogota on the same day, you've got 11.3 hours of dark.

So yes, you will need night interruption for photoperiod plants, if you want them to reach max size. If you are going to use clones, and clones of clones, then you definitely need night interruption, otherwise the clones will flower very quickly and you'll have very small plants.

Is there a good solar powered light kit with a timer (to bring the lights on at midnight)?

Sure, there are some small kits with lithium ion batteries. I'm not aware of any particular ones. What I have is a small solar power system for my house, and a cord that runs out to the greenhouse, 120v AC.

Also, about how far apart do you put the lights? (Do you want one on both sides of each plant? Or how does that go?)
I was looking at some kits on the River, but I am not sure which one I need. Do you already have that sorted out?
Thanks.

I use a bunch of 13w LED full spectrum bulbs on AC power, each with its own cord, socket, and switch-on-the-cord. I think the cords are 15 ft long. I've got them strung up in the greenhouse rafters, and hanging down above the plants. Basically you want to have light hitting all sides of every plant. Sometimes not enough light will reach the bottom parts of a plant, especially if it has a dense canopy, so you'll see a little flowering happening there which is isolated and not a problem.

EDIT: also, I was thinking about starting a new thread for the greenhouse grow (to keep things straight).
Did you put your Greenhouse thread in the Organic category, or the Outside category? (Because it is kind of both.)

My current "Quest for mold-resistant strains" is in the Outdoor Growing section.

 

[CBDMed]

The shortest night in the northern hemisphere is on summer solstice, June 20. For us in Hawaii it's 10.67 hours of dark period, which is still enough for mature plants to flower. In Bogota on the same day, you've got 11.3 hours of dark.

So yes, you will need night interruption for photoperiod plants, if you want them to reach max size. If you are going to use clones, and clones of clones, then you definitely need night interruption, otherwise the clones will flower very quickly and you'll have very small plants.


Sure, there are some small kits with lithium ion batteries. I'm not aware of any particular ones. What I have is a small solar power system for my house, and a cord that runs out to the greenhouse, 120v AC.


I use a bunch of 13w LED full spectrum bulbs on AC power, each with its own cord, socket, and switch-on-the-cord. I think the cords are 15 ft long. I've got them strung up in the greenhouse rafters, and hanging down above the plants. Basically you want to have light hitting all sides of every plant. Sometimes not enough light will reach the bottom parts of a plant, especially if it has a dense canopy, so you'll see a little flowering happening there which is isolated and not a problem.

Woof.
Ok, I think they put the greenhouse far away from AC power. He said it "would be great to have a solar kit, so that they did not have to string electrical wires". (So it could be a long way.)

EDIT: to save a lot of unnecessary reading, a summation:
I looked at kits on the River. I found a "super bright" one. I will get that one, and test.
It says it will turn on at sunset, and then go for 5 hours on full "super bright", and then start to fade--but I think that will work.
It is on sale
It is not "night interruption" but it should cut the length of the night in half... so I am guessing that should work (and if not I will have to figure out something else).

My current "Quest for mold-resistant strains" is in the Outdoor Growing section.

 

[InTheShed]

it should cut the length of the night in half..

If you think your plants will be getting 17 hours of light a day (12+5) then make sure they're always getting that. Cutting the light hours from 24/0 to 17/8 can send mature plants into flower and then reveg.

 

[CBDMed]

If you think your plants will be getting 17 hours of light a day (12+5) then make sure they're always getting that. Cutting the light hours from 24/0 to 17/8 can send mature plants into flower and then reveg.

Yes thank you.
I was wondering if I should (probably) get a backup set of lights, so that in case that one burned out I would have a spare set on hand (because it takes 2-3 weeks to get packages by Amazon). I think I could charge the battery once a month or something to keep it alive.

 

[CBDMed]

Ok, I was able to get two of the light string solar kits on order (so I have a backup).

I lost a few more clones, and my guys are asking for what to plant, and the pineapple Kush is not here yet, I thought I would pop older seeds that I have in the drawer (and then I can agonize over which ones to plant, haha, because there are going to be way too many... hahaha but that is a great problem to have!)

Since many of the seeds are older, I thought I would use those root riot starter cubes (because they control the moisture very well, and it takes the stress out of it).

A lot of the seeds are regulars. I tried to go through with the magnifying glass and look for the ones that were round, and get rid of the ones that were oblong, in case that actually works.
(I'm not too sure if I did a good job or not, but at least the ones I put in the cubes were more rounder-ish than the ones that I sorted out as being "oblong".)

Everything was bought from a sponsor. (Or at least they were sponsors when I bought!)
CBD God
Harlequin BX4
Sour Tsunami CBD
Candida (sent to me by some cool grower)
Cannatonic
And (1 each) Delimed CBD plus

We are supposedly coming into "summer", meaning the humidity will drop down, and temperatures will be warmer.
I figured if the temperatures are going to be warmer than it would be a good time to try the CBD God.
I wanted to start the pineapple Kush but the seeds are not here yet.

I have mainly Indica in flower right now, so the clones I have are mainly Indica.
If the plants survive flowering now that the humidity is starting to come down, probably that strain will be fine in a greenhouse summer grow as well.
But if they mold in the indoor grow room, then I know those clones will not work for me here in Colombia.
I hope CBD God makes it!

I guess whatever I grow going into winter will have to be extremely mold resistant sativa.
Tomorrow I will see if I can swap out that blue plastic for another metal tray. (I think I have one more somewhere.)

 

[cbdhemp808]

Woof.
Ok, I think they put the greenhouse far away from AC power. He said it "would be great to have a solar kit, so that they did not have to string electrical wires". (So it could be a long way.)

How far away? What I used were outdoor-grade extension cords routed inside electrical conduit, either metal or PVC.

In order to stuff the cord into the conduit, you need to cut off one of the female plug end. But you can easily add a new plug once the cord comes out the other end, and connect it to a power strip (or 2) to provide multiple outlets for your lighting. The extension cords are very flexible, so it's easy to route them in the conduit.

EDIT: to save a lot of unnecessary reading, a summation:
I looked at kits on the River. I found a "super bright" one. I will get that one, and test.
It says it will turn on at sunset, and then go for 5 hours on full "super bright", and then start to fade--but I think that will work.
It is on sale
It is not "night interruption" but it should cut the length of the night in half... so I am guessing that should work (and if not I will have to figure out something else).

If you can route the AC power to the greenhouse, then you'll have access to normal LED bulbs, which only need to go on for a few minutes in the middle of the dark period. What I do is 12 midnight, 2am, and 4am. I use a digital timer to control the power to the lights. Here's one on the River that looks good HERE. Here's the cords w/ switches that I use for the bulbs, HERE. This way you can move the bulbs around and position them as needed.

If you can't route extension cords, one of these would work to provide solar AC power, $110. The unit can provide 80 watts (peak 120), so you could run 8 x 11 watt LED full spectrum bulbs (or 8 x 9 watt).