Plant Alchemy With KNF: Korean Natural Farming And Jadam

Azimuth said:
 JMS JFS(?)

I'm trying something new with my Jadam extracts. JMS (Jadam Microbial Solution) is made with water, microbes and some food for the microbes in the form of a starch, potato flakes in my case. It is used or applied at the peak of the expanded microbial population as suggested by peak bubbles.

@Gee64 has mentioned in another thread about how the myco fungus connects with the roots and helps with processing of phosphorus in flower but that it needs to be well established early otherwise it can easily get outcompeted by the bacterial microbes in which case it struggles to be as effective as it should be later on.

So, I've taken to watering my veg pots with my FAA (Fish Amino Acid) which is more fungal dominant than my other Jadam Liquid Fertilizers to help that process along.

In thinking about it, I wondered if I could jumpstart the fungal growth by making a fungal version of my JMS, so I've started a test to see.

I'm using water, a nugget of leaf mold from my leaf mold processing barrel in place of my worm castings, and my FAA as a food source in place of the potato flakes to see if I can propagate the fungal microbes to assist in proliferating them.

If it works I'll have a Jadam Fungal Solution loaded with extra fungi to give a fungal boost to early vegging plants, and then maybe I'll try it on my most recent leaf barrel to see if I can speed up the making of my leaf mold.
Click to expand...
I'm going to call this experiment a fail. :confused:

I didn't see much of any bubbles forming on the surface of the liquid and after a couple of weeks I started to get an "off" smell so I'm going to assume that my efforts to propagate fungus this way doesn't work.

I took the results, diluted it into rain water and sprinkled it over my fresh batch of fall leaves.

I do remember when I was Comparing leaf mold vs coco vs CSPM that I got lots of bubbles in my leaf mold control so it seems like I just have to come up with a better way to do it.
 
Highya guys,

I would think mycelium growth is an aerobic (but high humidity) process. Good drainage, misted at least 2 times/day. Kind of like growing mushrooms. Mycelium is a great decomposer! I think I'll see if I can get some added to my compost pile! Happy Smokin'
 
Bode said:
Highya guys,

I would think mycelium growth is an aerobic (but high humidity) process. Good drainage, misted at least 2 times/day. Kind of like growing mushrooms. Mycelium is a great decomposer! I think I'll see if I can get some added to my compost pile! Happy Smokin'
Click to expand...
Hmmm. Ok, I've never grown mushrooms, at least not intentionally. But assuming that's true, my fluffing of my in-progress leaf mold on a regular basis would be consistent with that theory.

I've also got two barrels of fall leaves so I can fluff one of those and see if there is a material difference.

I'm on it!
 
Evergreen89 said:
Hey & @Azimuth since I’m a commercial fisherman I was curious on how to turn bycatch or carcasses into something useful for the garden?
Click to expand...
Two ways.

As a Jadam extract, put the material into a bucket or larger container with a lid to keep the smell in. Add some microbes from leaf mold soil or, my preference, fresh worm castings, cover with water and set it aside, out of direct sun, and leave it be to process down.

As a KNF (Korean Natural Farming) extract, mix the material in a covered container with an equal amount of brown sugar by weight, add some microbes (no water) and cover. Set aside for 6 months minimum. FAA (Fish Amino Acid)

In both cases, smaller chunks breakdown faster but you can also just use whole fish.

This is a great fungal input for your soil.
 
Highya Azimuth, EG89, guys,

I thought of another solution. Like the Native Americans did - bury under plants. Mark where you put them and you'll have some serious nutrients for them! Just wish I had access to fish waste! Happy Smokin'
 
Evergreen89 said:
Thank you so much I will def try when I get more fish and is it the same for crab shells or just let them dry and grind to a powder? Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Like egg shells, those will take a loooooong time to break down, so yes dry, then grind them into a powder. They provide some insect protection in the grow as the chitin in the shells promotes microbes that feed on it, which also happens to be the same stuff mite and thrip exoskeletons are made from.

Evergreen89 said:
What about the juice at the bottom of worm farm could that be used instead of castings? Sorry if it’s dumb question still new to this organic stuff
Click to expand...
Not quite the same. That stuff is called leachate and is often laden with salts. Also, not all of it has passed through the gut of the worms which is where the magic happens. I usually toss the leachate onto non-edible landscape plants around the property. They do love the stuff, but for edibles I won't use it.

It is also  not the same as worm casting tea. Castings tea is made from steeping castings themselves in non-chlorinated water sometimes with an air pump and other amendments.
 
Over in @Gee64 's thread, @StoneOtter mentioned that The Rev has stated that seedlings can be sexed early (in 30 days) by starting them off at 12/12 lighting for the first 10 days above ground (Here).

I've only got two seeds of my ACDC CBD strain left so I sprouted one and am going to try this lighting method as I want to know ASAP if I'll have to order new seeds to get my CBD fix. It broke soil yesterday and I put it in the flower box. Today it was standing erect but needed circumcision surgery for its helmet head. I carefully pried off the seed coat and the coty's were folded tightly together. After an hour or so they seem to be relaxing a bit and beginning to unfold.

I'll count today as day 1, and leave it for 10 days and then move it back to the veg box.
 
Good luck for a quick reveal!
 
Azimuth said:
So, this round I'm trying a bubble mist cloner
Click to expand...
I started getting root nubs on some of the cuts at about 15 days, so not too bad.

This is my second round. First was a bust for a variety of reasons, too cold, not great bubble action, weak clones, etc.

For this round I added a second bubble stone with a splitter and that gave me better bubble mist coverage and did a better job at keeping the bottom of the cuts wet.

I also turned on the heat mat and tried to keep the water temps between 69-71*F.

The nubs aren't growing out into roots yet so next round I'll try a bit higher temp and see if that helps.

But so far I'm pleased with what looks like potential success on the cloning front.
 
Highya Azimuth,

I remember when I tried cloning, I had a series of sprayer inserts into 1/2" pvc. My problem was too cold (basement), but I did get about 60% clones to grow roots, Took about 20 days. So I canned that idea, lol. But, you should get roots if you let them go a little longer. Oh, yes, I did put some rooting hormone in the cloner I made. Good luck with the learning process!! Happy Smokin'
 
Thanks Bode. I'm confident I'll get it. Just have to find the right combination of factors.
 
Bode said:
Highya Azimuth,

I remember when I tried cloning, I had a series of sprayer inserts into 1/2" pvc. My problem was too cold (basement), but I did get about 60% clones to grow roots, Took about 20 days. So I canned that idea, lol. But, you should get roots if you let them go a little longer. Oh, yes, I did put some rooting hormone in the cloner I made. Good luck with the learning process!! Happy Smokin'
Click to expand...
Cloning has always worked well for me. Even in a shot-glass. Clonex and REG (root x gold) always works.
In a warmer temp they should root well in 14 days.
I have a grow space in the basement for flowering. The colder temp seems to match that of harvest time.
 
Hi Azimuth. I'm interested to know how your testing of bio-fungicides went (for powdery mildew). I recall, some months ago, you were looking to motivate growers to report experiences using different White Powdery Mildew (WPM) sprays, in particular bioactive ones. I have a real problem with the fungi in my grow room, no amount of disinfection nor cleanliness appears to wipe it out, as it always shows up on my plants regardless, so I've been managing the issue with UV lights (weak, 385nm UV LEDs installed in my main light fixture) and I have experimented with a number of different solutions.

I have found two different mixed solutions that work extremely well, keeping WPM at bay for weeks before a new application is required. It has to be said off the top however that pruning your plants so that enough airflow takes place around the base of the plant and everywhere else is extremely important to successful management. I lollipop plants for this reason.

I've been reading a lot of research papers on WPM control and learned that a number of different species are responsible and that different species react differently to the various control measures available, specifically to the different bio-acids.

Sometimes, even when I've been controlling in veg, WPM shows up on my plants when they are in flower and this presents a real challenge that has led to my developing two different solutions, one for Veg, and one for Flower.

Unfortunately, the very effective spray I have dev'd for use in Veg doesn't hurt leaves but does damage buds, and thus cannot be used in Flower. It is, however, extremely effective in Veg and quite easy to purchase and make. All it is is a dry mixture of tartaric, malic, and citric acids that is available premixed at wine-supply shops, and is quite inexpensive. When mixed at 2-3 grams per litre it is safe for vegging plants and makes short work of WPM. Make sure you are using a good surfactant like Castille soap or yucca (dish soap works too) and it will spread and coat nicely. Spray just before lights out or turn lights way, way down for a few hours.

Perhaps most exciting is the development of effective control that can be used in Flower. I had low expectations here as I was told nothing existed for in-flower WPM control. Nonetheless, I feel that what I've worked out is a very effective control and does not harm buds whatsoever.

This spray consists of a mix made with worm castings, Liqui-Dirt, Bio-Clean (a drain/septic field treatment composed of enzymes and bacteria), chitosan (in a clean, inexpensive concentrated liquid form also found at DIY wine stores), aspirin, and pectin enzymes (also purchased at wine store). After 36-48 hours of mixing and aerating the mixture are strained with a coffee filter, then added to a sprayer with some surfactant and applied liberally to plants. It really, really does wipe out and protect against WPM on Flowering cannabis for a minimum of two weeks provided a good surfactant is used, and in my experience does not damage the buds at all. I put a lot of work into this project trying dozens of solutions and destroying more than a few buds.
 

Similar threads

Emilya Green
Emmie's Backyard Fermented Plant Extracts From Dandelions!
2 3 4 5
Replies
99
Views
30K
greenjeans
greenjeans
Amy Gardner
The Unconventional Farmer: Archive of Korean Natural Farming techniques
Replies
11
Views
36K
Lerugged
Lerugged
Smokin Moose
What do the different nutrients mean to Cannabis?
Replies
9
Views
13K
HeadMaster
H
B
Alchemy
2
Replies
34
Views
3K
David Bowman
David Bowman
Azimuth
How to adjust the major nutrients during the plant lifecycle?
Replies
7
Views
930
Azimuth
Azimuth
Back
Top Bottom