Gee64
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure if foliar needs ph'ing. Feeding the roots definitely does.
Sounds like Azi needs to test ph'd vs non-ph'd
Plant Alchemy With KNF: Korean Natural Farming And Jadam
- Thread starter Azimuth
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Sounds like Azi needs to test ph'd vs non-ph'd
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- #1,142
I can check, but pretty sure he's going to say it worked great last round so no need for further testing. Could just be his water out of the tap is perfect, but I guess we'll never know.I'm not sure if foliar needs ph'ing. Feeding the roots definitely does.
Sounds like Azi needs to test ph'd vs non-ph'd
- Thread starter
- #1,143
I'm going to try adding a small humidifier to the box to see if I can get the humidity up but not too high. I got the smallest one I could find but even that one says it's for small rooms.
It's got two settings so I set it on the lowest one and I'll see how the numbers look tomorrow.
If it works, that should help my vpd calculations.
Now, if I can only get up at 3am...
It's got two settings so I set it on the lowest one and I'll see how the numbers look tomorrow.
If it works, that should help my vpd calculations.
Now, if I can only get up at 3am...
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- #1,144
This little humidifier has gotten the minimum humidity levels up from the low 20's to the low 40's which I think will be close to perfect. Unfortunately the tank is just a little too small to last 12 hours so I may get a slightly bigger one if it seems a good addition.
I'll see what the numbers look like at 3am tomorrow or the next day, or the next...
I'll see what the numbers look like at 3am tomorrow or the next day, or the next...
- Thread starter
- #1,145
My soil has been staying too wet for too long which makes getting my brix up a bit of a challenge, and I'd like to get to a point where I can do a high brix organic SIP so I'm going to make a couple of changes for the next round.
I have a lot of organic material in my mix which probably causes it to hold onto moisture longer than normal but I have pretty small containers so that limits the amount of total food I can get in them.
I have had my next round soil sitting for about a month and I wanted to get more aggregate in it to enhance the drainage/air passages, so I dumped it out of the container, removed 1 liter from it and replaced it with compost mids which I screened out from my stored compost from this season's pile. It ran about 5:1, fines:mids, and the mids are mostly small twigs, acorn caps, small pieces of bark, that sort of thing.
Assuming this doesn't cause any significant issues, next round I'll plan on replacing the leaf mold compont with these mids and then I'll probably try replacing some/all of the perlite component with it if all goes well.
I'm also going to try reengaging the reservoir component this next round so I replaced the connector pot soil with hydroton clay pebbles. My theory is that the hydroton will provide a path for the roots to find the reservoir without moving much water up into the soil mass since it seems to hold onto water quite well but wicks it quite poorly.
If it works the way I hope, the plant will have access to all the water it wants without engaging the wicking function which will allow me to run the soil moisture and reservoir function as two separate functions.
I miss the explosive growth I was getting with the engaged reservoir so now that I've gotten my brix readings above the magic 12 threshold I want to try to find a combination of things that might allow me to reopen the SIP door.
It'll be a few weeks before this pot gets planted but I'm anxious to see how it works.
I have a lot of organic material in my mix which probably causes it to hold onto moisture longer than normal but I have pretty small containers so that limits the amount of total food I can get in them.
I have had my next round soil sitting for about a month and I wanted to get more aggregate in it to enhance the drainage/air passages, so I dumped it out of the container, removed 1 liter from it and replaced it with compost mids which I screened out from my stored compost from this season's pile. It ran about 5:1, fines:mids, and the mids are mostly small twigs, acorn caps, small pieces of bark, that sort of thing.
Assuming this doesn't cause any significant issues, next round I'll plan on replacing the leaf mold compont with these mids and then I'll probably try replacing some/all of the perlite component with it if all goes well.
I'm also going to try reengaging the reservoir component this next round so I replaced the connector pot soil with hydroton clay pebbles. My theory is that the hydroton will provide a path for the roots to find the reservoir without moving much water up into the soil mass since it seems to hold onto water quite well but wicks it quite poorly.
If it works the way I hope, the plant will have access to all the water it wants without engaging the wicking function which will allow me to run the soil moisture and reservoir function as two separate functions.
I miss the explosive growth I was getting with the engaged reservoir so now that I've gotten my brix readings above the magic 12 threshold I want to try to find a combination of things that might allow me to reopen the SIP door.
It'll be a few weeks before this pot gets planted but I'm anxious to see how it works.
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Do your potions need to be ph'ed when administered with water?
- Thread starter
- #1,147
I don't know. I wouldn't think so since the nutrient part is going to be confined to the soil with my crumbles and top dressings, and the water will be just for the unlimited moisture.
My understanding with synthetics is that proper pH is important since the plant will only take up the various nutrients in their respective pH zones, but I'm not planning on using any of the potions in the reservoir.
Early on I did try to do it that way and got deficiencies but interestingly didn't have any issues with organic material in the reservoir. My take on it was that my potions were fermented prior to adding them but that was just a guess.