New City Grower 1.0

Re: New City Grower

planting seeds and clones in big pots means your wasting pot size, your root end up growing strait to the bottom of the pot and thats where they will stay, if you start a plant in its final pot then after harvest take it out you will see that the top half off the soil or medium contains very few roots, so with none autos its best to start in seeding pot or small size pot, when the roots have developed well then develop to the next size pot or even final size pot depending on how long you veg, if your doing a long veg then id do the 3 pot method as you will be giving the roots all the soil to grow in instead of just the bottom half of the pot,
 
Re: New City Grower

if you want to take a 10inch clone or 1ft clone or even bigger then do some air layering, the clone dont stop growing while it roots, it keeps getting fed by the parent plant, once its rooted you cut the branch off the mother plant and plant it and it will continue to grow.

air layering clones the hardest of plants to clone, some strains are really hard to clone and some impossible, air layering takes the problem away

The one thing I have not been able to find with air layering is the time it takes to get the process done. From my research it takes months to years to get a branch rooted. I definitely have been meaning to experiment with this on cannabis though. It might be a whole different story with the weed!

We should keep the topic of 'air layering' alive after the show.
 
Re: New City Grower

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Pick a Curtain Jam
 
Re: New City Grower

What? Did I win something?

#4
you were first

Hi BB :ciao:


Mick45. For photoperiod cannabis plants I start with 5" pots and when the roots begin to circle the bottom of the pot transplant to 1 gallon pots, when the roots begin to circle the bottom of the pot I transplant to 5 gallon size pots. Auto flower cannabis plants should idealy not be transplanted.


See? I was right :)


Yeah...Dresney

Don't go there Jam...
 
Re: New City Grower

Question 5 dres
 
Re: New City Grower

I think it may be best to think the questions through a shade more? It's a game and I really enjoy it :) but many answers may be right. A lot is personal preference with some questions. Kj and AG like transplants. I and others like 1 transplant. We all do kinda good. Who's to say what's right?
 
Re: New City Grower

jon on here used air layering after i told him about the method, he had his branch rooted a few days longer than it normally takes, ive also found this to be the same as well, it takes a few days longer at the most, as long as the area is kept totally dark and moist then the roots grow very quick, you need to scrape back the outer layer of stem, apply rooting hormone then wrap soil or growing medium around it, then cover with cling film or foil and keep it totally dark, roots grow at the same rate using this method,

ive used it a few times and works the same as cloning, im not sure of his full name but im sure it was jon and he was testing one of sara's led lights, he couldnt clone a plant and i showed him air layering and he tried it and done it first go, took him no longer than regular cloning but he did say the clone he took was ready a lot further in veg than a regular clone due to how big it was,
 
Re: New City Grower

Question 5

Is the drop in temperatures from lights on/off significant? (ie - lights on temp = 80, lights off = 70. Does the 10 degree difference impact plants in any way?) Should we be trying to minimize the difference or ensure that there is one?

It makes NO DIFFERENCE in that range at all. 20 degree drop is critical though. Also, the rise in RH is more of a problem because the plant may retain dampness on it's leaves which can cause burn once the lights come back on :)
 
Re: New City Grower

Question 5

Is the drop in temperatures from lights on/off significant? (ie - lights on temp = 80, lights off = 70. Does the 10 degree difference impact plants in any way?) Should we be trying to minimize the difference or ensure that there is one?

yes, plants stagnate if to cold. I personally get chilled when the temp drops significantly whether originally hot or not and would thing another living organism would "fee" the same. Growing is mostly 'bout environment imho. also, with blues i'm led to believe one desires a temp drop well into the sixties towards the end to achieve color, so i suppose it also depends on what you're trying to accomplish. Me, if i cared 'bout color, i'd simply waste money on purple max...but to each their own
 
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